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Old 08-31-2011, 03:37 AM   #1
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Question 95 GT questions

Hey guys I'm new here and have a couple questions. I just picked up a 95 GT, and noticed some things that I didn't on my first 95.

First question. The car is an automatic and when cruising at 2,000rpm I'm only running about 67MPH. In my first 95 a 5spd car with 2.73's I'd be running 80MPH. the best I can tell the tag on the hogs head is gone. What gearing do I have? 3.08? 3.27? Any body know?

Question two. On the passenger side valve cover the build sticker has a BIG +10 in the top left corner. Any ideas what this might mean? HP? TQ? Comp? Some kind of clearance or tolerance?

Thanks in advance, I will be filling out my profile with pics and info in the morning/afternoon, but I had to get these questions out there because I've been mulling them since Friday when I picked the car up. Also I did not search for the answers yet. Again thanks, the site looks cool as hell too!

-Ed
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Old 08-31-2011, 03:49 AM   #2
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Re: 95 GT questions

welcome!
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Old 08-31-2011, 04:01 AM   #3
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I would say probably along the line of 3.55s but not sure on valve cover
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:13 PM   #4
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Well with manual you have a fifth gear so your rpms will be lower than auto at cruising speed.
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meansaleen
Well with manual you have a fifth gear so your rpms will be lower than auto at cruising speed.
Aode 4th = .667
t5 5th = .68
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93slowstang

Aode 4th = .667
t5 5th = .68
So with that being the fact of the matter it's probably a 3.08, or 3.27, which is standard for the 99' and up cars? Btw the car is loaded. The only thing I can tell it doesn't have is a disc changer, which I don't know if a changer was offered in 95'.
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadsp0t

So with that being the fact of the matter it's probably a 3.08, or 3.27, which is standard for the 99' and up cars? Btw the car is loaded. The only thing I can tell it doesn't have is a disc changer, which I don't know if a changer was offered in 95'.
Provided that the gears are still stock then yes it's either of those.
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:05 PM   #8
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Cool big thanks man.

Anyone have any idea about the valve cover sticker?
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:28 PM   #9
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Np, can't find anything about that sticker though.
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:54 AM   #10
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Ok here is something else.. In the glove box there is a gray cable with a selector switch on the end(that's removable) with
0-7 to choose from. On the cable there is a white tag with "shielded calibration select cable M.A.C. 2" printed on it. The dealer said it changes the timing. I'm of the thought that it is connected to the ECU and selects between different programs. There is also a cable coming from in front of the shifter with an end that fits on my iPhone(dealer claimed it was an iPod hook up) but when I connect my phone the phone says the equipment does not support charging. I believe this is for a hand held programer or laptop. I've started the car on all the 0 through 7 selections and 3 and 4 are the only ones the car feels
Good and shifts normally. I've not pulled the kick panel yet but I was wondering if anyone has any idea what I'm dealing with? I would prefer to remove it, unless what programs it can be had cheap/easy. Mainly b/c when I put a chip in the plug on top of the ECU of my other 95 I had issues afterward. Has anyone herd of a set up like this? The tag on the gray cable also has a date like 5/20/10 on it. I searched the words on the tag on here a couple diff ways with zero results. Thanks.
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:49 AM   #11
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Sct tuner selecter
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:05 PM   #12
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The iPod connection may be outdated to your phone, the selector may be for either an SCT chip or superchip. There's another brand it could be but I can't remember off hand.
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Old 09-01-2011, 01:43 PM   #13
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Can it be tuned? Hand held? Laptop? Is it worth if so meaning* programing cost and dyno time at FastLane.. Five years ago was like $150.00 for three(minimum) pulls.
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Old 09-01-2011, 03:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadsp0t
Can it be tuned? Hand held? Laptop? Is it worth if so meaning* programing cost and dyno time at FastLane.. Five years ago was like $150.00 for three(minimum) pulls.
Sct can be tuned by any tuner, if you want to do it yourself you need the chip burner and software which is expensive. As a regular tuner for mild mods it is fine.
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:57 PM   #15
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I'm off tomorrow I'll probably ride over to fastlane and inquire about a tune
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Old 09-02-2011, 01:51 AM   #16
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Also wondering if I could just remove it. I disconnected the selector and started the car. It started but it acted like it didn't like it.
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Old 09-02-2011, 01:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Also wondering if I could just remove it. I disconnected the selector and started the car. It started but it acted like it didn't like it.
You can remove it and the car will run. The 94-95 computers are real sensitive to mods so that may be what's causing it to act up. It also might have to relearn the parameters again as well.
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Old 09-10-2011, 06:12 PM   #18
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Got my lazy *** under the car today.. The tag is on the rear end still and clearly reads 3.27. Which is fine with me. I have a brand new(NOS) 3.27 gear in my building, and it's probably got some rust on it. If they are not rusted way too much could they be saved as 3.27 or would they have to be machined down?
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:39 AM   #19
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Re: 95 GT questions

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Got my lazy *** under the car today.. The tag is on the rear end still and clearly reads 3.27. Which is fine with me. I have a brand new(NOS) 3.27 gear in my building, and it's probably got some rust on it. If they are not rusted way too much could they be saved as 3.27 or would they have to be machined down?
You can't machine gears.
They are surface hardened and you would be removing that layer of hardening and it is just too difficult/expensive to try and re-heat treat them. Also to change the ratio would require adding or subtracting teeth, so it is just not feasible.

Just clean them up good and preserve them with some preservative or oil.
As long as they are not pitted up to badly they should be OK.
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:52 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadsp0t

So with that being the fact of the matter it's probably a 3.08, or 3.27, which is standard for the 99' and up cars? Btw the car is loaded. The only thing I can tell it doesn't have is a disc changer, which I don't know if a changer was offered in 95'.
Look on the rear diff. There will be a tag that will have some numbers on it. My 94 has an oe cd changer
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:55 AM   #21
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Cool thanks! Don't know who told me they could be cut down.. Only paid maybe $40 for them 5-6 years ago. Hopefully they will clean up enough to sell them. If my current car had ended up having 3.08 or 2.73 I'd put them in this car but I already have 3.27's factory.

---------- Post added at 10:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:54 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 Mustang GT

Look on the rear diff. There will be a tag that will have some numbers on it. My 94 has an oe cd changer
Ya my tag says 3.27, guess the disc changer is the only option I don't have. Cool thanks for the info man.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:35 PM   #22
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Ok I got to thinking.. When I took this chip out I went under the hood and turned the timing back to factory marks.. This weekend it dawned on me the timing probably should have been on the factory marks not advanced.

So yesterday I cleaned the contacts, put some dielectric grease on them and re-installed the chip. I did it with the battery unhooked and spout Plug out. Hooked the battery back up and started the the and replaced the spout.

Now on the setting it had ran 'ok' on it runs fantastic and the over all drivability is MUCH better, power is up and shifting is firm.

Am I crazy or does this make sense???

---------- Post added at 02:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:31 PM ----------

Also the MPG seems to be much better along with the idle, it's no where as rough as before and before it would sometimes stumble down then pick back up. Not now..
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:27 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadsp0t
Ok I got to thinking.. When I took this chip out I went under the hood and turned the timing back to factory marks.. This weekend it dawned on me the timing probably should have been on the factory marks not advanced.

So yesterday I cleaned the contacts, put some dielectric grease on them and re-installed the chip. I did it with the battery unhooked and spout Plug out. Hooked the battery back up and started the the and replaced the spout.

Now on the setting it had ran 'ok' on it runs fantastic and the over all drivability is MUCH better, power is up and shifting is firm.

Am I crazy or does this make sense???

---------- Post added at 02:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:31 PM ----------

Also the MPG seems to be much better along with the idle, it's no where as rough as before and before it would sometimes stumble down then pick back up. Not now..
When I got my chip it was recommended to put timing back at factory settings. Not crazy at all.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:37 AM   #24
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This chip has a selector switch I assume is for different tunes? On some of the selections after the fuel pump primes it doesn't stop running and the car won't start. On the others is fine.. Any ideas? Intake manifold bolts and other bolts look untouched, I say that because a friend suggested there may have been a power adder before..
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:43 AM   #25
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Old 10-31-2011, 01:45 PM   #26
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I found the 'HOT' tune! Major difference from the others. Completely different then same setting before I took it out and replaced it. Sweet..
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Old 10-31-2011, 01:45 PM   #27
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Re: 95 GT questions

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Originally Posted by deadsp0t View Post
Ok I got to thinking.. When I took this chip out I went under the hood and turned the timing back to factory marks.. This weekend it dawned on me the timing probably should have been on the factory marks not advanced.

So yesterday I cleaned the contacts, put some dielectric grease on them and re-installed the chip. I did it with the battery unhooked and spout Plug out. Hooked the battery back up and started the the and replaced the spout.

Now on the setting it had ran 'ok' on it runs fantastic and the over all drivability is MUCH better, power is up and shifting is firm.

Am I crazy or does this make sense???

---------- Post added at 02:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:31 PM ----------

Also the MPG seems to be much better along with the idle, it's no where as rough as before and before it would sometimes stumble down then pick back up. Not now..
It makes perfect sense. Almost all of the tuners/chips I have researched and read about prefer the engine timing to be set to factory specs before installing their chips.
The only exception to this are the "custom" burned chips as far as I know.
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Old 10-31-2011, 01:47 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadsp0t
I found the 'HOT' tune! Major difference from the others. Completely different then same setting before I took it out and replaced it. Sweet..
On the same 'HOT' tune the MPG seems better then no chip and base timing.
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Old 10-31-2011, 01:50 PM   #29
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Re: 95 GT questions

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This chip has a selector switch I assume is for different tunes? On some of the selections after the fuel pump primes it doesn't stop running and the car won't start. On the others is fine.. Any ideas? Intake manifold bolts and other bolts look untouched, I say that because a friend suggested there may have been a power adder before..
Yes, the switch should be for different tunes.
Usually the max number of tunes is three, but there could be more I suppose.
The positions it does not start on have most likely not had a tune burned to them or they are for some type of power adder.
A previous power adder is always a possibility, but you should see some signs of it having been there.
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Old 10-31-2011, 01:53 PM   #30
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Re: 95 GT questions

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Be carefull about touching any of the components or connections on the circuit board. Static electricity buildup in your body is enough to "kill" some electronics.
You should handle them by the edges only and it would be best if it was mounted inside a box or insulated in some way.
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Old 10-31-2011, 01:53 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Yes, the switch should be for different tunes.
Usually the max number of tunes is three, but there could be more I suppose.
The positions it does not start on have most likely not had a tune burned to them or they are for some type of power adder.
A previous power adder is always a possibility, but you should see some signs of it having been there.
The thermostat and housing have been changed to a 160, the housing is not the same bright aluminum and has a passage blocked off. I'll take pic.
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Old 10-31-2011, 01:55 PM   #32
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Old 10-31-2011, 01:58 PM   #33
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The thermostat and housing have been changed to a 160, the housing is not the same bright aluminum and has a passage blocked off. I'll take pic.
That 160 T-stat could cause you some issues.
That temp won't let the ECU take the engine out of "cold run" loop and makes it run richer than it should.
A 180 is the lowest temp you should use.

They probably broke the original T-stat housing and had to replace it.
I can't tell you how many times I have seen this over the years.
99.99% of the time it is from over tightening the bolts.

The plugged opening in the top is usually for a temperature sending unit.
However not all vehicles use that port.
If the housing has been changed that could be one sign of a previous power adder installation, but without more evidence to back it up it's really hard to say for sure.
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Old 10-31-2011, 02:01 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Be carefull about touching any of the components or connections on the circuit board. Static electricity buildup in your body is enough to "kill" some electronics.
You should handle them by the edges only and it would be best if it was mounted inside a box or insulated in some way.
Oops.. I plan on a switch panel under the radio, we have diamond plate at work

The selector has 0-7

---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:58 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

That 160 T-stat could cause you some issues.
That temp won't let the ECU take the engine out of "cold run" loop and makes it run richer than it should.
A 180 is the lowest temp you should use.

They probably broke the original T-stat housing and had to replace it.
I can't tell you how many times I have seen this over the years.
99.99% of the time it is from over tightening the bolts.
Had the cold loop issue with my other 95, though the 160 is great in the humidity here. 200 or 212 stands out to me as stock? So 180 would still be less?
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Old 10-31-2011, 02:04 PM   #35
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Re: 95 GT questions

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Oops.. I plan on a switch panel under the radio, we have diamond plate at work

The selector has 0-7

---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:58 PM ----------



Had the cold loop issue with my other 95, though the 160 is great in the humidity here. 200 or 212 stands out to me as stock? So 180 would still be less?
I believe 195 is stock on most Fox and SN95 Mustangs.
Yes, the 180 would still be less.

Interesting that the switch has 7 positions.
Do you have any information on it as far as brand name and model?
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