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Old 03-28-2012, 09:39 PM   #386
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Where the heads new or used When u bought them because the could be warped
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:39 PM   #387
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Quote:
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Where the heads new or used When u bought them because the could be warped
the were new.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:45 PM   #388
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Did u do a compression test before u tore it apart because if the cylinder has a crack that might tell u where it is...
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:49 PM   #389
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Did u do a compression test before u tore it apart because if the cylinder has a crack that might tell u where it is...
no i didnt.i thought about it but it was making terrible noises and i didnt want to turn it over anymore.now i think i should have.i thought for sure i would pull the head and find the problem on the gasket.

---------- Post added at 09:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:47 PM ----------

can you do a compression test turning the motor over by hand? i have always bumped the starter previously.if so i maybe able to bolt the heads back up and try that.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:25 PM   #390
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U can do it by hand but it's easier with the starter... I have to put the heads and all the valve train back on tho
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:28 PM   #391
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yeah its alot of work but may be worth it.but it still wont tell me if the gasket was the problem previously installed. i got some thinking to do about whati want to do with this.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:32 PM   #392
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Yea but it will tell u if the block is cracked
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:43 PM   #393
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it will only tell me if its cracked in the cylinder right?if the block is just cracked somewhere else it may not affect compression.

---------- Post added at 10:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:40 PM ----------

i guess after inspection i get just the head gaskets.they are 70$. and assemble just the heads and valve train which isnt to hard.and stop there and do the compression test.it will be risking 70$ but saving some waisted work.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:49 PM   #394
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Re: what it takes...

A compression test is not going to be very accurate if the engine is not warmed up.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:49 PM   #395
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The way I see it is if coolant got into the combustion camber the head, block, or gasket didn't seal right
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:53 PM   #396
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A compression test is not going to be very accurate if the engine is not warmed up.
not accurate enough to give me something to work with?
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:01 PM   #397
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Re: what it takes...

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not accurate enough to give me something to work with?
I doubt it. Without having it all warmed up and everything expanded I'm afraid you'd get false low readings.


When Jay Kranz had his On3 turbocharged Mustang worked on, the guy who did the work and got it running used the Fel-Pro 9333 gaskets. If they work for a forced induction engine they should be ok for yours.
They are listed on Summit for $24.99 each if that will help you save some money.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:11 PM   #398
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thanx.i may do that.

if you notice the gasket bore on those are 4.100 and it say for stock or performance build. so that particular gasket is oversized ,probably for a variety of bores unlike the one i had.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:14 PM   #399
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Quote:
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A compression test is not going to be very accurate if the engine is not warmed up.
Yea I guess didn't think of that really.. Thats the size I have 4.100
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:18 PM   #400
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have any of you guys ever seen a head gasket leak that had no signs on the gasket?

---------- Post added at 11:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:17 PM ----------

Quote:
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Yea I guess didn't think of that really.. Thats the size I have 4.100
ok cool.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:24 PM   #401
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No only time I seen is was one my 4 wheeler the gasket was black and parcel missing
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:37 PM   #402
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Re: what it takes...

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have any of you guys ever seen a head gasket leak that had no signs on the gasket?
No, I have not, but then most of them were ran longer than yours was.


I noticed the 4.100" bore size.
Since they also listed larger bores I have to assume those are meant for 4.00 to 4.100 bores, which will cover your application.
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:41 AM   #403
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Advance auto has the 9333 gaskets in stock at my local store for only 18.79 each. Even cheaper than summit.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:37 AM   #404
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Advance auto has the 9333 gaskets in stock at my local store for only 18.79 each. Even cheaper than summit.
Good to know . Thanx
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:33 AM   #405
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I found a low miles 302 block off of an old time trusted friend.he said 300$ but he is a negotiator.if I can swing him a bunch of parts I have laying around and get it cheap, should I just get it and not mess around ? By time I pull it and pay a machine shop to check it I could be in way more than that. He did say he will sit on it for me.he just had it sitting there .
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:28 PM   #406
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Re: what it takes...

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I found a low miles 302 block off of an old time trusted friend.he said 300$ but he is a negotiator.if I can swing him a bunch of parts I have laying around and get it cheap, should I just get it and not mess around ? By time I pull it and pay a machine shop to check it I could be in way more than that. He did say he will sit on it for me.he just had it sitting there .
Might not be a bad idea.
It would also give you the opportunity to do a few block upgrades, which we can discuss in detail if you are interested?


1. Deck Surface finish.
2. Oiling System improvement.
3. Main Stud Girdle to better stabilize the bottom end and prep for boost.
4. Freeze Plug holes mod to strengthen the block.
5. Valley Girdles to strengthen the top of the block.
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Old 03-29-2012, 03:06 PM   #407
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Might not be a bad idea.
It would also give you the opportunity to do a few block upgrades, which we can discuss in detail if you are interested?

1. Deck Surface finish.
2. Oiling System improvement.
3. Main Stud Girdle to better stabilize the bottom end and prep for boost.
4. Freeze Plug holes mod to strengthen the block.
5. Valley Girdles to strengthen the top of the block.
Sounds good.if I go that route we'll talk for sure.I'm still undecided.I am gonna go check it out right now as long as he is home.
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:23 PM   #408
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I checked it out.he said it has 68k on it.looks great and its the whole motor inluding sensors,accessories, efi intake etc.whole nine yards.so if I did buy it I could sell a lot of the parts to make some money back.on the downside is he already has so much junk he doesn't want to trade for anything.
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:55 PM   #409
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300 for a complete motor I'd buy it
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:12 PM   #410
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300 for a complete motor I'd buy it
That's what I'm thinking.but the funds are low but I might still see if I can come up with the money somehow even if I don't use it.I could sell the whole motor for 800 all day.he said he will save it for me as long as I want.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:54 PM   #411
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Re: what it takes...

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That's what I'm thinking.but the funds are low but I might still see if I can come up with the money somehow even if I don't use it.I could sell the whole motor for 800 all day.he said he will save it for me as long as I want.
I wouldn't count on being able to sell many stock parts off of it if you decide to keep the block.
I see stock stuff for sale all over and it doesn't seem to move very well.


To sell the stock intake or heads you can go ahead and gasket match the ports with a die grinder (if you have one) and sell them with the gaskets as port matched components. A lot of people cannot do that themselves and would pay to have it done, so that would increase the odds of selling them considerably.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:07 PM   #412
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I wouldn't count on being able to sell many stock parts off of it if you decide to keep the block.
I see stock stuff for sale all over and it doesn't seem to move very well.

To sell the stock intake or heads you can go ahead and gasket match the ports with a die grinder (if you have one) and sell them with the gaskets as port matched components. A lot of people cannot do that themselves and would pay to have it done, so that would increase the odds of selling them considerably.
yeah i guess your probably right but either way its a great deal.it had evrything on it including the salt and pepper shakers,lifting plates, ac .i was suprised of how complete it was..if i dont use i may force my buddy to put it in his ranger.lol or heck i could keep it and build the bottom end for later.or sell it out right for double the money.its pretty much a no brainer at that price,

port matching would be a good idea if i was to sell the left overs.i could paint everything to so it looked nice.alot of people are scared of rust.

im still thinking i will most likely buy the gaskets since they are so cheap and give em hell.i am gonna try thread sealer on the bolts this time to.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:23 PM   #413
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Re: what it takes...

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yeah i guess your probably right but either way its a great deal.it had evrything on it including the salt and pepper shakers,lifting plates, ac .i was suprised of how complete it was..if i dont use i may force my buddy to put it in his ranger.lol or heck i could keep it and build the bottom end for later.or sell it out right for double the money.its pretty much a no brainer at that price,

port matching would be a good idea if i was to sell the left overs.i could paint everything to so it looked nice.alot of people are scared of rust.

im still thinking i will most likely buy the gaskets since they are so cheap and give em hell.i am gonna try thread sealer on the bolts this time to.
Inspect the gaskets you have if you just want to give it a try.
If you find no visible issues I wouldn't be afraid to spray them with some copper coat, put some silicone around the water ports and give them another try. Won't waste much other than some time. Maybe up the head stud torque values by 5 pounds because they are used gaskets.
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:34 AM   #414
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Ok, I'm going at this tomorrow.a couple questions.keep in mind I am on a super budget.

When I drain my oil should I flush some oil into the block?

Should I Change my oil filter even though its brand new?or should I just take it off dump it out?

Any other precautions I should take because I had water in my oil?
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Old 03-31-2012, 02:00 AM   #415
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Re: what it takes...

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Ok, I'm going at this tomorrow.a couple questions.keep in mind I am on a super budget.

When I drain my oil should I flush some oil into the block?

Should I Change my oil filter even though its brand new?or should I just take it off dump it out?

Any other precautions I should take because I had water in my oil?
Do everything you can afford to do to get as much of the coolant out as possible.
Antifreeze/water can pop the surface off of and pit up your engine bearings, plus it is sticky and gummy.


A bit of diesel fuel or kerosene can be poured through the lifter valley and each head oil return to help flush out the contaminants if you wish to do so. Just follow the flush in the lifter valley with some engine oil so the cam/lifters are not dry.
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:18 PM   #416
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well i got paid today and i wasnt able to squeez any mustang stuff into my budget.so know she might be down for a couple more weeks.now im not gonna be able to stop thinking about it till then.so no update as promised. i tried talking my wife into how not important electricity and water was.but for some reason she thinks utilites are more important than head gaskets.o well.
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:27 PM   #417
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Re: what it takes...

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well i got paid today and i wasnt able to squeez any mustang stuff into my budget.so know she might be down for a couple more weeks.now im not gonna be able to stop thinking about it till then.so no update as promised. i tried talking my wife into how not important electricity and water was.but for some reason she thinks utilites are more important than head gaskets.o well.
Women! They just don't understand us or our cars.
Sorry man, I feel for you.
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:48 PM   #418
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Ok I may be able to sauerkraut the parts.but I was looking at the gasket one last time and it was the 1011-2.so I measured it and it is 4.100. But it seems like it is missing 2 water passage holes.(see pics)
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:49 PM   #419
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Also I did make sure the marked side "front" goes to the front of the car.
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:30 PM   #420
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Re: what it takes...

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Ok I may be able to sauerkraut the parts.but I was looking at the gasket one last time and it was the 1011-2.so I measured it and it is 4.100. But it seems like it is missing 2 water passage holes.(see pics)
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Also I did make sure the marked side "front" goes to the front of the car.
Those holes are meant to be covered I think. The small hole in the one water jacket area slows down the water flow so it has time to pick up the heat out of the head I believe. I checked those against other gaskets and they appear to be the same.


I researched the 1011-2 gaskets and found this statement:
Quote:
Loc Wire Ring Head Gaskets
Fel-Pro Loc Wire gaskets are engineered to provide the best sealing available for severe applications. They have oversized wire rings that lock into receiver grooves which must be machined into the cylinder heads. Precise machining is critical to the success of these gaskets.

That may explain why they didn't hold if your heads were not grooved. Without a groove the wire ring held the head up too high and it would not seal the water jackets properly.


Try the 9333PT1 gaskets instead or have your heads grooved to accept the 1011-2 gaskets.
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