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Old 04-12-2012, 07:54 PM   #491
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That may just be my project for tomorrow after work.
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:56 PM   #492
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hope it works out.sometimes the best way to see is give it a shot.
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:06 PM   #493
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Re: what it takes...

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Ok got my tails in.
Looks good on your car.
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:35 AM   #494
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Same tail lights i have on my red lx. They look real good on your car man.
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:47 AM   #495
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Thanx guys!
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Old 04-16-2012, 03:52 PM   #496
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Well still no gear yet.this is eating me alive.all I want to do is hear my baby run again. so I went ahead and ordered the 32$ Mallory steel gear from summit.I think my old friend may be on some bs. He does have a little past of being like that.

Anyways to keep my mind off of it I think I'm gonna start leveling the car up.l, to prepare more my subframe connectors. Captain has motivated me after seeing his pics.I'm not sure if I will get them on all the way depending if I need anymore parts or not.I have the tube.which is hopefully a good size for my subframe.and I have a nice little selection of 1/8" plate. So I will update later. Then when I get this figured out I will be more than happy to throw a set on steves car to.
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:17 PM   #497
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Re: what it takes...

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Well still no gear yet.this is eating me alive.all I want to do is hear my baby run again. so I went ahead and ordered the 32$ Mallory steel gear from summit.I think my old friend may be on some bs. He does have a little past of being like that.

Anyways to keep my mind off of it I think I'm gonna start leveling the car up.l, to prepare more my subframe connectors. Captain has motivated me after seeing his pics.I'm not sure if I will get them on all the way depending if I need anymore parts or not.I have the tube.which is hopefully a good size for my subframe.and I have a nice little selection of 1/8" plate. So I will update later. Then when I get this figured out I will be more than happy to throw a set on steves car to.
Well, that sux. I think we all have had friends like that though. Promise the moon and never come through.
I'd be willing to bet that your homemade sub-frame connectors will be stronger than the factory made ones. They all pretty much use thin gauge metal and I bet your metal is thicker.
Don't forget to taper off the ends. The main reason for that is to keep you from hanging on anything you might drive over. Of course you probably already know that.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:39 PM   #498
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:47 PM   #499
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actually mine may not be the strongest.my tube is actually a little more narrow than the subframe.so i fish plated the one side like normal then the other plate doesnt wrap up the side like it should it just kind of welds to the bottom with a plate.when i do steves i will probably make the right plates so his weld on each side.my fuel line is located right were the one plate welds so i was fine welding it to the bottom.i know its a little kinda lazy short cut.but i believe its nice and strong.the subframe is 2" wide. my tube is 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 by 1/8th.

and actually i didnt think about tapering the ends. oops. but i will.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:56 PM   #500
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Originally Posted by dreamstang
actually mine may not be the strongest.my tube is actually a little more narrow than the subframe.so i fish plated the one side like normal then the other plate doesnt wrap up the side like it should it just kind of welds to the bottom with a plate.when i do steves i will probably make the right plates so his weld on each side.my fuel line is located right were the one plate welds so i was fine welding it to the bottom.i know its a little kinda lazy short cut.but i believe its nice and strong.the subframe is 2" wide. my tube is 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 by 1/8th.

and actually i didnt think about tapering the ends. oops. but i will.
Sweeeet!...yeah I definitely what this!!..and yeah I can see how tapering the ends is a good idea..
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:00 PM   #501
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Sweeeet!...yeah I definitely what this!!..and yeah I can see how tapering the ends is a good idea..
when we do years ill be nice and prepared. so ill let you make any on the spots call for fitment. the only thing i dont know is if your subframe is a little different than mine since i have a vert. butnit should be nice and strong.
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:15 PM   #502
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when we do years ill be nice and prepared. so ill let you make any on the spots call for fitment. the only thing i dont know is if your subframe is a little different than mine since i have a vert. butnit should be nice and strong.
I would imagine mine might only be a little easier as yours probably already has something extra as all you really have is your subframe...hmm I guess we'll see!....

If you watch the beginning of this vid I really like the idea of the floor through subframe connetors...obviously alot more work involved but very cool none the less!..

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Old 04-16-2012, 07:25 PM   #503
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yeah that is sick!! we could actually do yours however youd like. we couldnt get that crazy in my garage cause it would invlolve my stang finding a place to stay for a while.haha. no but seriously i am cool with however you want to with the resources i have.which is some scrap 1/8th inch plate and tube.i do have some small angle iron and longer bolts(if they are the right ones) to make provisions to connect them to the rear seat bolts.if you have any other ideas ahead of time i scavenge more steel from work.
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:29 PM   #504
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Re: what it takes...

Steve, the "through the floor" sub-frames are a great idea for a race car and they add strength and provide good solid mounting points for roll cages, seats, etc., but they would be as pain to deal with in a street/strip car. Especially if carpeting over or retaining the rear seats.

I'm more a fan of contouring the sub-frame connectors to the bottom of the floorboards and leaving the interior stock for street/strip cars, but the choice is yours of course.
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:49 PM   #505
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Yeah I dont think thats the route I would go at the moment too much to deal with for my DD.honestly the subs going through the floor wouldn't really bother me as far as driving with it.my car is anything but luxury...hell id happily drive my car with a 6point cage in it!..

---------- Post added at 07:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:44 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
yeah that is sick!! we could actually do yours however youd like. we couldnt get that crazy in my garage cause it would invlolve my stang finding a place to stay for a while.haha. no but seriously i am cool with however you want to with the resources i have.which is some scrap 1/8th inch plate and tube.i do have some small angle iron and longer bolts(if they are the right ones) to make provisions to connect them to the rear seat bolts.if you have any other ideas ahead of time i scavenge more steel from work.
Im all about any simple plan that works the best!...this will be the beginning of my traction issues and subframe connects have got to be one of the first things ive wanted just dont have the tools for the job..my car also suffers from shock tower rust eek!!...that is a bigger plan for a later date but is definitely needed as this winter has molested my car..
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:23 PM   #506
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Ok done for now.I got the connectors on.I just need to make the middle piece that mounts to the rear seat bolts.and I'm gonna make a drive shaft loop cause I scored some 10" slicks for free from my cuz.hopefully they fit.I don't want to launch on slicks with no loop.these are by no means the best connectors out there.lol but I feel they should help stiffen my vert up.

If you want Steve we could throw a loop on yours while we are under there.all I'm gonna do is curve a piece of flat bar and weld it to each connector.

So list of stuff to do.
Middle piece for connectors
Ds loop
Also need better exhaust hanger.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:30 PM   #507
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Good s#!t!!....I know what you mean not wanting to launch on slicks I have m/t street radials but after a couple lanuches I just felt like I was gunna break somthing:/...so im back to street tires for now..
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:32 PM   #508
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Pics.I also included some of the x bracing I did a while back. The pics aren't of best quality but here they are.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:13 PM   #509
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i went back again and compared some of the pics that you(th) posted and i think mine mount properly.either way im confident in them. but most of those subframes only have one side plate front and back.that is what i did. for some reason i thought that it was suppose to strattle both sides.and it also seems like some just weld right to the bottom.so i guess i did it normal.haha. i didnt go all the way to the front because my x bracing and all that. but i caught a good portion of the front subframe.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:28 PM   #510
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Re: what it takes...

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i went back again and compared some of the pics that you(th) posted and i think mine mount properly.either way im confident in them. but most of those subframes only have one side plate front and back.that is what i did. for some reason i thought that it was suppose to strattle both sides.and it also seems like some just weld right to the bottom.so i guess i did it normal.haha. i didnt go all the way to the front because my x bracing and all that. but i caught a good portion of the front subframe.
Yours will be fine I'm sure.
I can't really remember, but I don't think mine (Kenny Brown Super Subs) have any plates on the sides at all.
They extend about 6"-8" past the ends of the car frame stubs and I believe they were just welded directly to the car frame stubs.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:39 PM   #511
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ok good.

---------- Post added at 09:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:35 PM ----------

this was my very first set ive done.since i kow what i need now i am gonna chop the parts for the next set at work on the shear and saw.it will make it alot faster.

is welding in the drive shaft loop fine? or are they usually boltable?and what size flat bar you recommend?i was thinking 1/4 by 2 welded to the connectors shaped around the ds.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:46 PM   #512
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Re: what it takes...

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ok good.

---------- Post added at 09:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:35 PM ----------

this was my very first set ive done.since i kow what i need now i am gonna chop the parts for the next set at work on the shear and saw.it will make it alot faster.

is welding in the drive shaft loop fine? or are they usually boltable?and what size flat bar you recommend?i was thinking 1/4 by 2 welded to the connectors shoed around the ds.
They are usually bolt on to make driveshaft R&R a bit easier.
The 1/4"x 2" flat steel is perfect for them. That's what the old Lakewood loops were made from. They should completely circle the driveshaft to keep it from going up or down.


If you only do one, put it at the front of the driveshaft immediately behind the U-Joint.
That is the most important area. It will keep the shaft from dropping down and pole vaulting the car or from chewing its way through the floorboards and into the driver's area.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:49 PM   #513
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They are usually bolt on to make driveshaft R&R a bit easier.
The 1/4"x 2" flat steel is perfect for them. That's what the old Lakewood loops were made from.

If you only do one, put it at the front of the driveshaft immediately behind the U-Joint.
That is the most important area. It will keep the shaft from dropping down and pole vaulting the car or from chewing its way through the floorboards and into the driver's area.
yes 1 only want one in the front. i have good access to 1/4 x 2 so i was hoping that was good. but i didnt want to overkill it and add unwanted weight.i will look into bolting or see if i can locate it were its still easy to remove the DS. thanx
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:54 PM   #514
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yes 1 only want one in the front. i have good access to 1/4 x 2 so i was hoping that was good. but i didnt want to overkill it and add unwanted weight.i will look into bolting or see if i can locate it were its still easy to remove the DS. thanx
They still make them like I remembered. Lakewood Safety Loop

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Old 04-16-2012, 09:57 PM   #515
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actully that gives me a good idea. it involves a pipe, hammer, and some flatbar. lol
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:00 PM   #516
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actully that gives me a good idea. it involves a pipe, hammer, and some flatbar. lol
Yup!
I tack weld one end to an appropriately sized pipe then heat and hammer till it conforms to what is needed.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:12 PM   #517
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Pics.I also included some of the x bracing I did a while back. The pics aren't of best quality but here they are.
Good lookin welds there almost like a roll of nickels!...did you have the car sitting on all 4 tires when you welded them?..
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:15 PM   #518
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actually that was the first idea.

in the pic, we stock these parts at work in different sizes.i just need 2 of them. then either a piece of about 8" pipe and flatten it into an oval.then cut it in half and drill it to match my bracket.or as you said and just conform the center section.or just cut in half a smaller pipe maybe 4" then add the flat section with holes in the middles.hmmm.... so many ideas now. lol. any how this route i could weld the end brackets and just make the middle piece boltable.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:19 PM   #519
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Good lookin welds there almost like a roll of nickels!...did you have the car sitting on all 4 tires when you welded them?..
no actually i used a 4' level and made sure that the car was perfectly level.then i made sure that my door that rubs when i open it, still did.haha

actually trojan gave me this idea a while back.and one of my buddies has done it this way.

---------- Post added at 10:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------

and actually this technique did suck a little bit because where the subframe connectors go is actually right where i usully put my jackstands.but i was able to squeez them just in front and back
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:20 PM   #520
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no actually i used a 4' level and made sure that the car was perfectly level.then i made sure that my door that rubs when i open it, still did.haha

actually trojan gave me this idea a while back.and one of my buddies has done it this way.
Ok cool...makes sense!..as does welding the ends of the ds loop and making the center loop removable with bolts...
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:24 PM   #521
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Ok cool...makes sense!..as does welding the ends of the ds loop and making the center loop removable with bolts...
dont worry.we will see how my car tracks before we do yours. . lol
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:43 PM   #522
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pod? if you mean pair of sub fr. con im interested lol

---------- Post added at 10:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:38 PM ----------

looking good frabri.blah..plooufh udj .... that long word trojan named ya haha jk cant wait to see and hear the finished product
Lmfao
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:43 PM   #523
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:44 PM   #524
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pod? if you mean pair of sub fr. con im interested lol

---------- Post added at 10:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:38 PM ----------

looking good frabri.blah..plooufh udj .... that long word trojan named ya haha jk cant wait to see and hear the finished product
Haha thanx man.for some reason I think this will never be a finished product.lol.one thing always leads to another.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:47 PM   #525
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haha indeed i just started my maf conversion and my gt40 upper and lower and by started i'm mean i finally pulled it into the garage. haha. and i forgot to order gaskets for the lower intake as well as valve cover gaskets so now the wife is a little upset that i have to spend a few extra $ but what can ya do. i like how you did your sfc they look good
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