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Old 05-17-2012, 07:49 PM   #771
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gotcha. darn. oh well. good call though.
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:05 PM   #772
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Re: what it takes...

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gotcha. darn. oh well. good call though.
I think I will eventually remove the rear sway bar and go to a "anti-roll bar" and a drag race front sway bar. I already have the spherical bearings.


Drag Race Front


Anti-Roll Rear


Installing the Anti-Roll Rear Bar
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:14 PM   #773
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I think I will eventually remove the rear sway bar and go to a "anti-roll bar" and a drag race front sway bar. I already have the spherical bearings.

Drag Race Front

Anti-Roll Rear

Installing the Anti-Roll Rear Bar
very nice stuff. i really like the anti roll bar. i may get one of those in the future. but i still have a few other thing i need to button up this year, so money wise thats probably gonna be next year probaly.

now i have heard about taking the front off. do you think its worth it to do just on track day? then put it back on when i get home. now keep in mind i plan on towing my car there about 50 minutes. so if it will affect towing i do not want to.
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:29 PM   #774
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Re: what it takes...

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very nice stuff. i really like the anti roll bar. i may get one of those in the future. but i still have a few other thing i need to button up this year, so money wise thats probably gonna be next year probaly.

now i have heard about taking the front off. do you think its worth it to do just on track day? then put it back on when i get home. now keep in mind i plan on towing my car there about 50 minutes. so if it will affect towing i do not want to.
I haven't ran my front bar since about 8 years ago. I removed it to free up the suspension and lose some weight.
Not having it hasn't caused me any problems, but then I don't try to carve any corners either.
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:32 PM   #775
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

I haven't ran my front bar since about 8 years ago. I removed it to free up the suspension and lose some weight.
Not having it hasn't caused me any problems, but then I don't try to carve any corners either.
cool. i prefer the straight line to.

hey there is a formula to figure out the sway bar. its all about length. i dont think i want the headache. but it is possible i could get my engineer at work to help me figure it out. like i said i dont think i want the headache but i might look into it a little.

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/for...e/10887/page1/
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:30 PM   #776
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Re: what it takes...

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cool. i prefer the straight line to.

hey there is a formula to figure out the sway bar. its all about length. i dont think i want the headache. but it is possible i could get my engineer at work to help me figure it out. like i said i dont think i want the headache but i might look into it a little.

Can you make an anti-roll bar out of any ol pipe?: Grassroots Motorsports forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine
If you want to corner I'd just use a HD version of the stock bar from Steeda, Roush, etc.. Building one would require being able to form and bend heat treated tubing or round bar.


The Anti-Roll bar style is for straight line only. It is not designed to flex, just to keep your car from twisting during launch and flopping side to side on soft sidewall tires going down the strip. I have seen them made from HD chrome moly tubing and from solid steel bars.
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:09 PM   #777
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

If you want to corner I'd just use a HD version of the stock bar from Steeda, Roush, etc.. Building one would require being able to form and bend heat treated tubing or round bar.

The Anti-Roll bar style is for straight line only. It is not designed to flex, just to keep your car from twisting during launch and flopping side to side on soft sidewall tires going down the strip. I have seen them made from HD chrome moly tubing and from solid steel bars.
so the anti roll bar is not streetable? like i said i only worry about the straight line. and i am more than will to sacrifice ride quality. but with that being said i still want to be able to drive it on the street.

i am not gonna build one. i did want to show you that forum i posted. i thought you may find it a little interesting. but yeah this is a case were ill leave it to the experts.
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:52 PM   #778
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so the anti roll bar is not streetable? like i said i only worry about the straight line. and i am more than will to sacrifice ride quality. but with that being said i still want to be able to drive it on the street.

i am not gonna build one. i did want to show you that forum i posted. i thought you may find it a little interesting. but yeah this is a case were ill leave it to the experts.
I read through some of the forum. The guy was talking about a sway bar for the Lemons race and the anti-roll wouldn't be suitable for that as someone farther down the posts pointed out to him. The formulas were interesting, but there are lots of web based calculators available that would make puzzling it out not really worthwhile. I did locate and save an Excel sheet ( I'll attach it below) for sway and torsion bars that might come in handy.


You could install the Anti-Roll bar with quick connect pins and just remove the adjustable links for the street and re-install your factory or an aftermarket sway bar for everyday driving.
Attached Files
File Type: xls TorsionSwayBarRate.xls (219.0 KB, 362 views)
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:00 PM   #779
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

I read through some of the forum. The guy was talking about a sway bar for the Lemons race and the anti-roll wouldn't be suitable for that as someone farther down the posts pointed out to him. The formulas were interesting, but there are lots of web based calculators available that would make puzzling it out not really worthwhile. I did locate and save an Excel sheet ( I'll attach it below) for sway and torsion bars that might come in handy.

You could install the Anti-Roll bar with quick connect pins and just remove the adjustable links for the street and re-install your factory or an aftermarket sway bar for everyday driving.
cool. thats a good idea. i dont mind doing extra prep work for the track. i just want to produce good numbers when i go. my goal is to hit the 12 second area. but i dont really have a clue what she will do. i am also not gonna install the springs you gave me till the day before i go. then i will take them off until next time.

the biggest fear i have is going to the track and breaking something launching on the slicks. i am gonna take an extra u joint. since the trans and axles are stock should i stick with a stock u joint? kinda like a weak link? if i put bullet proof u joints in will i tear something else up?
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:14 PM   #780
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Re: what it takes...

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cool. thats a good idea. i dont mind doing extra prep work for the track. i just want to produce good numbers when i go. my goal is to hit the 12 second area. but i dont really have a clue what she will do. i am also not gonna install the springs you gave me till the day before i go. then i will take them off until next time.

the biggest fear i have is going to the track and breaking something launching on the slicks. i am gonna take an extra u joint. since the trans and axles are stock should i stick with a stock u joint? kinda like a weak link? if i put bullet proof u joints in will i tear something else up?
Yeah, I'd leave the stock U-joints.
Otherwise (and it may happen anyways too) you may break an axle or pretzel the driveshaft.
You'll find the weakest link eventually.


Just be expecting something to give, so you are kind of prepared for it when it does let go.
I constantly (even when driving) look and think about what I should do if something goes wrong. Such as, "What if the car coming at me crosses into my lane, what will I do and where will I go?"


I also preach that at my wife and daughters, so much that when my oldest hit a deer on a curve a while back, she did the right thing, maintained control and stayed on the road.
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:18 PM   #781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Yeah, I'd leave the stock U-joints.
Otherwise (and it may happen anyways too) you may break an axle or pretzel the driveshaft.
You'll find the weakest link eventually.

Just be expecting something to give, so you are kind of prepared for it when it does let go.
I constantly (even when driving) look and think about what I should do if something goes wrong. Such as, "What if the car coming at me crosses into my lane, what will I do and where will I go?"

I also preach that at my wife and daughters, so much that when my oldest hit a deer on a curve a while back, she did the right thing, maintained control and stayed on the road.
i do the same thing. i am especially nervous in my stang. mostly because i have done so much work to it. there is alot to tahink about when driving. is my motor ok, is it driving straight, is my exhaust hanger good, did my distributor stay put, etc, etc, etc,. lol thats what goes through my head whenever i drive. that is also why i didnt mind deleting the radio. i lke to know whats going on with my car.

so stock u joint it is. thanx for the advice my friend
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:23 PM   #782
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Re: what it takes...

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i do the same thing. i am especially nervous in my stang. mostly because i have done so much work to it. there is alot to tahink about when driving. is my motor ok, is it driving straight, is my exhaust hanger good, did my distributor stay put, etc, etc, etc,. lol thats what goes through my head whenever i drive. that is also why i didnt mind deleting the radio. i lke to know whats going on with my car.

so stock u joint it is. thanx for the advice my friend
If/when you get to making enough power to warrant an aftermarket driveshaft and axles, don't forget the yokes. A rearend girdle will also help that 8.8 hold up better.
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:27 PM   #783
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

If/when you get to making enough power to warrant an aftermarket driveshaft and axles, don't forget the yokes. A rearend girdle will also help that 8.8 hold up better.
yup. certainly all part of the future plans.
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:18 PM   #784
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Re: what it takes...

I thought you might want to see this. Click on the "Show More" for engine and car info and times.
Maybe give you an idea of what your car might run.


The Blue Magoo
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:38 PM   #785
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He has stock heads but bigger gears. That maybe pretty close. I would be happy if it was. My goal is to break into the 12's .
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:11 PM   #786
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He has stock heads but bigger gears. That maybe pretty close. I would be happy if it was. My goal is to break into the 12's .
Yeah, I was thinking your heads may make enough HP difference to make up for the gear difference.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:14 PM   #787
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hopefully. i would be happy with a mid 12.
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:43 PM   #788
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for some reason i keep losing my timing. i think my distributor is turnig just a little bit but i am not certain. but i have had to adjust the timing like 3 times in the last week or 2. there was a burr on the surface of the dizzy that the hold down contacts. i fixxed that and it still did it again today.

i tried to mark it last time i reset it but i wasnt home and didnt have any good cleaner so i could put another sharpie mark on it. which brings me to my next thing. i am not sure that the dizzy is going all the way down. because there is a littlle bit of oil around the dizzy shaft and on top of the timing cover. i think i am gonna pull it out this time and investigate a little deeper. its just getting a little irritating.

i am gonna get on my phone in a min and post a pic. i was wondering if you can tell if it looks like its all the way down?
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:44 PM   #789
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:55 PM   #790
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Re: what it takes...

Got family coming over, I'll check mine ASAP and let you know for sure.
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:01 PM   #791
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Got family coming over, I'll check mine ASAP and let you know for sure.
No problem. It just seems like it might be sitting up a little high. I am not gonna mess with it today anyways. Thanx
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:24 PM   #792
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Re: what it takes...

Ok, it looks just like mine. I have edited the picture with some suggestions.

I had a thought, Are you sure the gear is on at the right height and is not hitting the block inside?
Other than that maybe the MSD distributor just isn't as thick in that area and filing down the clamp will work.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:35 PM   #793
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i think i am gonna pull the dizzy to verify. but when i installed the gear, i was able to line the roll pin up. and i also verified the height. but it was a little longer on the bottom side. i didnt think nothing of it because the teeth were located in the same spot. i dont think this is the problem but i will look into it.

i also thought of taking some meet off the hold down. i actually checked it out the other day and was unsure if it would help or not. because the part of the hold down that sits on the block(opposite dizzy side) only touches on the very back. its hard to explain, but the back touches and the dizzy touches. the part in between where the bolt is there is a gap. so the hold down will actually pivot from the back onto the dizzy. it works similar to that of a machinist hold down set.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:53 PM   #794
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i think i am gonna pull the dizzy to verify. but when i installed the gear, i was able to line the roll pin up. and i also verified the height. but it was a little longer on the bottom side. i didnt think nothing of it because the teeth were located in the same spot. i dont think this is the problem but i will look into it.

i also thought of taking some meet off the hold down. i actually checked it out the other day and was unsure if it would help or not. because the part of the hold down that sits on the block(opposite dizzy side) only touches on the very back. its hard to explain, but the back touches and the dizzy touches. the part in between where the bolt is there is a gap. so the hold down will actually pivot from the back onto the dizzy. it works similar to that of a machinist hold down set.
Well, if you have a gap on the dizzy side then it should be clamping down good enough.
Now I wonder if the bearings in the dizzy are to tight?
It shouldn't move. I have actually forgotten to tighten mine down before and it never moved with a weeks worth of driving it that way.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:56 PM   #795
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how do i check the bearings?
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:01 PM   #796
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how do i check the bearings?
While it is out, just see if it turns freely.
When you install it do the gears mesh together smoothly and the distributor go in easy?
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:10 PM   #797
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While it is out, just see if it turns freely.
When you install it do the gears mesh together smoothly and the distributor go in easy?
Ok. Just a standard bearing check. Yes it went easy. I lined it up on the tooth, put a wrench on the crank and spun it a little. And it dropped right down on its own.

Only other things are something with the btm. I don't even have the control knob hooked up.

---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:06 PM ----------

I think tomorrow I will pull it out. Inspect it. Mark it real good when I get the timing set again. Then pray. It's also possible maybe there is a burr on the inside surface not allowing it down. As many times as I messed with that dumb thing, its possible.
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:10 PM   #798
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Ok. Just a standard bearing check. Yes it went easy. I lined it up on the tooth, put a wrench on the crank and spun it a little. And it dropped right down on its own.

Only other things are something with the btm. I don't even have the control knob hooked up.
With the clamp tightened it should not turn is what is worrying me.
Something has to be exerting a good bit of force to turn the dizzy with it clamped down.


I wouldn't think the BTM would have any effect on it either way, but who knows for sure?
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:12 PM   #799
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With the clamp tightened it should not turn is what is worrying me.
Something has to be exerting a good bit of force to turn the dizzy with it clamped down.

I wouldn't think the BTM would have any effect on it either way, but who knows for sure?
Well. When the clamps tight, I can't spin it by hand. But for some reason my car will start running like craps out of no where. So I checked the timing and it would be off. Then adjusted it and it was fine. It's wierd. But we'll figure it out.
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:14 PM   #800
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Well. When the clamps tight, I can't spin it by hand. But for some reason my car will start running like craps out of no where. So I checked the timing and it would be off. Then adjusted it and it was fine. It's wierd. But we'll figure it out.
There isn't something inside the distributor that is loose is there?
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:17 PM   #801
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There isn't something inside the distributor that is loose is there?
I will check.

One more thing I will check next time it happens. Is what my voltage is on the battery when it happens. I have a pretty low idle setting and wonder if I'm messing either the msd. Like maybe its right on the border of good/bad.
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:24 PM   #802
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I will check.

One more thing I will check next time it happens. Is what my voltage is on the battery when it happens. I have a pretty low idle setting and wonder if I'm messing either the msd. Like maybe its right on the border of good/bad.
Maybe, the older MSD's were pretty sensitive to low voltage, but I hope they would have that fixed by now.
I had a really good Accel ignition box years ago it would fire all the way down to 7 volts, but it had exposed terminals and unfortunately yours truly pulled a DA move and dropped a screwdriver on them shorting it out and ruining it.
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:29 PM   #803
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Maybe, the older MSD's were pretty sensitive to low voltage, but I hope they would have that fixed by now.
I had a really good Accel ignition box years ago it would fire all the way down to 7 volts, but it had exposed terminals and unfortunately yours truly pulled a DA move and dropped a screwdriver on them shorting it out and ruining it.
That sux.

I'm just throwing some thoughts I had. I will let you know if I find anything tomorrow. Thanx for your input.
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:33 PM   #804
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That sux.

I'm just throwing some thoughts I had. I will let you know if I find anything tomorrow. Thanx for your input.
Thoughts are always good. One or the other of us will hit on the right thing eventually.
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Old 05-23-2012, 04:38 PM   #805
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Looks like I am gonna have to check out the advance mechanism. there seems to be quite a bit of slop in it.

And the actual shaft with the gear on it, is able to slide up and down about a 1/16" . I don't know if the slop is coming from that. But I think its the mechanism.

For shiz and giggles I pulled the dizzy, made sure there were no burrs on it. I also wanted to make sure the gear was doing ok. Which it seems to be.

The o ring on it doesn't seem like it sticks out past the housing. That maybe why I have some oil around there.

I made a little video so you can see the slop I am talking about. It's like, if you turn the rotor against the spring(as if it were advancing) , then let off of it. It's like its not returning all the way. After I do that and let it back I am still able to turn it about a 1/4" or less.

Also I took a pic of between the housing and locking collar that control the shaft from sliding up and down.

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