What it takes for forced induction and much more... - Page 25 - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1979-1995 Mustang GT



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 05-25-2012, 07:25 PM   #841
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
Sweet. Now when I get a chance to hook it up, we can see if this fixes it. I am confident though.
That's got to be it. You've been over and through everything else.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 05-25-2012, 07:39 PM   #842
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
on the plus side of things. we are working crazy overtime right now. i see rims and maybe even a wideband in the near future. it would actually be nice to get them at the same time so i can be tuned perfect for track day.

if you come across any used 9-10 inch wide 4 lug rims let me know. with those stock springs i dont need to worry about backspacing as much anymore do i?

and i need to get steve over here one of the weekends so we can do our loops. i was gonna try for this weekend but i have to work. maybe next weekend though.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 07:49 PM   #843
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
on the plus side of things. we are working crazy overtime right now. i see rims and maybe even a wideband in the near future. it would actually be nice to get them at the same time so i can be tuned perfect for track day.

if you come across any used 9-10 inch wide 4 lug rims let me know. with those stock springs i dont need to worry about backspacing as much anymore do i?

and i need to get steve over here one of the weekends so we can do our loops. i was gonna try for this weekend but i have to work. maybe next weekend though.
I broached buying a wideband to the wife and it's a no go for now, sorry.


I'll keep my eye open for wheels and you will still need the deep backspacing to tuck them under there. I have some 5.5" backspace 10" Draglites on my car and the 295/50/15 tires are not going to clear without lifting the back end up and limiting the shock's compression.
I hate that, so I will either get different rims or shorten the housing and axles.
I'm leaning toward shortening the housing and axles, because I like having the wheel center, centered in the wheel. Better weight distribution and balance that way I believe.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 05-25-2012, 07:59 PM   #844
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

I broached buying a wideband to the wife and it's a no go for now, sorry.

I'll keep my eye open for wheels and you will still need the deep backspacing to tuck them under there. I have some 5.5" backspace 10" Draglites on my car and the 295/50/15 tires are not going to clear without lifting the back end up and limiting the shock's compression.
I hate that, so I will either get different rims or shorten the housing and axles.
I'm leaning toward shortening the housing and axles, because I like having the wheel center, centered in the wheel. Better weight distribution and balance that way I believe.
is your car lowered? a 295 is about 11.5" . so thats 1.5" wider than mine. i only ask because i prefer closer to center also. and how much does it rub? i ask because if it barely rubs i shold be able to get similar backspacin to yours. maybe 5-5.5?

oh btw i always use this. it works great for a quick tire conversion
http://www.core4x4club.com/images/tech/tirecalc.htm

---------- Post added at 07:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ----------

ps that will be sick with shortend axles and housing. i love the way big tires tucked up in there look.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 08:11 PM   #845
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
is your car lowered? a 295 is about 11.5" . so thats 1.5" wider than mine. i only ask because i prefer closer to center also. and how much does it rub? i ask because if it barely rubs i shold be able to get similar backspacin to yours. maybe 5-5.5?

oh btw i always use this. it works great for a quick tire conversion
Tire Conversion Chart

---------- Post added at 07:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ----------

ps that will be sick with shortend axles and housing. i love the way big tires tucked up in there look.
My car is not lowered, but with the coil overs I have a good bit of adjustment and I want it to set low in the rear with just a touch higher rake in the front. I believe that will help the weight transfer a bit during launches.


Right now I can't even get the tire in there, it will hit the outer fender and it's pretty close to the inside too. Hammer time for the inside, fender lip roll on the outside and possibly some wheel tub modifications in the future.


I THINK, I can install 9" housing ends and bearing retainers which will allow me to do away with the C-clips, so I can cut the axles down about an inch on each side without having to buy new axles right away. However, as the power goes up the longevity of the stock axles will be quickly diminishing.


I missed that link, I'll check it out after I post this.


You know what scares me? I'm almost frantically afraid that my injuries are not going to allow me to ever work on or drive my car again. If that turns out to be the case, then I will have to live my dreams through you guys, so keep on modding and racing.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 08:15 PM   #846
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

My car is not lowered, but with the coil overs I have a good bit of adjustment and I want it to set low in the rear with just a touch higher rake in the front. I believe that will help the weight transfer a bit during launches.

Right now I can't even get the tire in there, it will hit the outer fender and it's pretty close to the inside too. Hammer time for the inside, fender lip roll on the outside and possibly some wheel tub modifications in the future.

I THINK, I can install 9" housing ends and bearing retainers which will allow me to do away with the C-clips, so I can cut the axles down about an inch on each side without having to buy new axles right away. However, as the power goes up the longevity of the stock axles will be quickly diminishing.

I missed that link, I'll check it out after I post this.

You know what scares me? I'm almost frantically afraid that my injuries are not going to allow me to ever work on or drive my car again. If that turns out to be the case, then I will have to live my dreams through you guys, so keep on modding and racing.
right on.

hows your case going btw? you said that WC finally approved.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 08:27 PM   #847
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
right on.

hows your case going btw? you said that WC finally approved.
I got the MRI for my thoracic spine, but I have not heard from the doctor yet.
I'm not a doctor and have no skills at reading the MRI's, but I have had enough of them that I kind of know what I'm looking at now. It doesn't look good. There appears to be several more blown disks and it looks like my spinal cord is badly compressed for about a 3-4 inch length. (I always ask for a copy of the MRI DVD and I have figured out how to open the files and run the program.)


Problem is the thoracic disks are very hard for them to operate on so they may or may not get repaired. They would have to go through the front to get to them and then may not be able to do much with them even then. The doctor said sometimes the best option is to leave them alone as they might do more damage trying to repair them.

P.S. Sorry to unload this on you, but I have no one else other than immediate family to talk to.
If it ever bothers you let me know and I'll quit it.
My former friends, well I'm sure you probably know how that goes.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 08:38 PM   #848
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
you are not by any means unloading anything on me. i asked how it was going because i was curious, as i was hoping that good news was coming of this.

that doesnt sound to good though hopefull when you hear back from the dr he was able to get something better out of the mri than you have. im guessing as bad of shape that area is in, the only thing that could be worse is paralysis? you definitly dont want that! .

also it maynot hurt to get a second opinion on all this to be sure. but im guessing that already crossed your mind.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 08:53 PM   #849
Registered Member
Regular
 
intensive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Region: Florida
Posts: 62
Sorry, TH hope all works out well for you.
intensive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 08:58 PM   #850
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
you are not by any means unloading anything on me. i asked how it was going because i was curious, as i was hoping that good news was coming of this.

that doesnt sound to good though hopefull when you hear back from the dr he was able to get something better out of the mri than you have. im guessing as bad of shape that area is in, the only thing that could be worse is paralysis? you definitly dont want that! .

also it maynot hurt to get a second opinion on all this to be sure. but im guessing that already crossed your mind.
Thanks, I appreciate your kindness and caring enough to ask.


Paralysis is a possibility. I went for about a 2 block walk today trying to keep everything freed up and functional and now I can't hardly move.


Yeah, I have had several "second opinions" thanks to work comp, they definitely do not want to pay for the operation and have tried everything they can to disown the issue. My neck/spine doctor also said that work comp delaying treatment for me has likely led to permanent nerve damage that could have been avoided with prompt treatment. Ain't that a kick in the head?
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 09:05 PM   #851
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Thanks, I appreciate your kindness and caring enough to ask.

Paralysis is a possibility. I went for about a 2 block walk today trying to keep everything freed up and functional and now I can't hardly move.

Yeah, I have had several "second opinions" thanks to work comp, they definitely do not want to pay for the operation and have tried everything they can to disown the issue. My neck/spine doctor also said that work comp delaying treatment for me has likely led to permanent nerve damage that could have been avoided with prompt treatment. Ain't that a kick in the head?
I have already told what i think of WC.
you better relax for a while.
well i wish you the best!
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 09:06 PM   #852
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by intensive View Post
Sorry, TH hope all works out well for you.
Thanks, I appreciate that.

Life happens and you have to learn how to live with it.....and crybaby at your friends.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 09:07 PM   #853
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Thanks, I appreciate that.

Life happens and you have to learn how to live with it.....and crybaby at your friends.
lmao.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 09:12 PM   #854
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
lmao.
I have to retain my ability to poke fun and laugh at myself. It helps keep me sane.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 09:13 PM   #855
Filibuster
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Region: Illinois
Posts: 1,656
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
on the plus side of things. we are working crazy overtime right now. i see rims and maybe even a wideband in the near future. it would actually be nice to get them at the same time so i can be tuned perfect for track day.

if you come across any used 9-10 inch wide 4 lug rims let me know. with those stock springs i dont need to worry about backspacing as much anymore do i?

and i need to get steve over here one of the weekends so we can do our loops. i was gonna try for this weekend but i have to work. maybe next weekend though.
Yeah this weekend wouldn't work for me either...but soon for sure
XXSTEVEO66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 09:16 PM   #856
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66

Yeah this weekend wouldn't work for me either...but soon for sure
I'm guesstimating that I will need mine on within about a month. So we have some time. If we can't catch a good weekend at the same time I can do just mine. No biggie.

The loop isn't as exciting as something performance. So its harder to motivate. But if I had my rims already it would probably be done already.lol
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 09:21 PM   #857
Filibuster
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Region: Illinois
Posts: 1,656
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

I have to retain my ability to poke fun and laugh at myself. It helps keep me sane.
So I guess pilates is out of the question?...lol jk
hope this can be worked out for you!..at least you can keep your head up through this..
XXSTEVEO66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 09:24 PM   #858
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66 View Post
So I guess pilates is out of the question?...lol jk
hope this can be worked out for you!..at least you can keep your head up through this..
I hope it works out good too, but keeping my head up with this titanium reinforced neck is a pain.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 04:26 PM   #859
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

I've been doing a good bit of reading and researching and I have some ideas to get you a few more HP, if you are interested?


1. Dual snorkel air cleaner with ducting to each inner fender or radiator support to bring in cooler, denser air. Good for up to 10 HP on a Dyno test I read about. If you have room extending the sides of the air cleaner housing up and installing a taller filter will also improve air flow. If you do not have room for the dual snorkel, you could possibly use a dual carb "hat" and place filters at the end of the ducting.


2. Super Sucker Carb Spacer - Track tested ET drop from 10.45 to 10.38. Estimated 10-20 HP gain depending on engine combo. Re-jetting carb to smaller jets will likely produce more power as the Super Sucker increased airflow through the carb drawing more fuel than was really needed.


3. Crank Trigger Ignition - Something I didn't know and had not thought about is that due to camshaft flex (which gets worse with high RPMs, high lift cams & heavier valve springs), flex in the distributor shaft and slack in the timing chain, your timing events are not as accurate as they could be. A crank trigger is much more stable and accurate as it times your engine right off of the crankshaft so valvetrain flex does not affect it. You will still use the distributor, but it's sole functions are to distribute spark to the plugs when the crank trigger tells it to and to turn your oil pump. This mod will net you around 8 more HP as proven on the Dyno test I read about.


So there you go, a possible 28 to 38 HP gain with some relatively easy mods.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 05:09 PM   #860
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse
I've been doing a good bit of reading and researching and I have some ideas to get you a few more HP, if you are interested?

1. Dual snorkel air cleaner with ducting to each inner fender or radiator support to bring in cooler, denser air. Good for up to 10 HP on a Dyno test I read about. If you have room extending the sides of the air cleaner housing up and installing a taller filter will also improve air flow. If you do not have room for the dual snorkel, you could possibly use a dual carb "hat" and place filters at the end of the ducting.

2. Super Sucker Carb Spacer - Track tested ET drop from 10.45 to 10.38. Estimated 10-20 HP gain depending on engine combo. Re-jetting carb to smaller jets will likely produce more power as the Super Sucker increased airflow through the carb drawing more fuel than was really needed.

3. Crank Trigger Ignition - Something I didn't know and had not thought about is that due to camshaft flex (which gets worse with high RPMs, high lift cams & heavier valve springs), flex in the distributor shaft and slack in the timing chain, your timing events are not as accurate as they could be. A crank trigger is much more stable and accurate as it times your engine right off of the crankshaft so valvetrain flex does not affect it. You will still use the distributor, but it's sole functions are to distribute spark to the plugs when the crank trigger tells it to and to turn your oil pump. This mod will net you around 8 more HP as proven on the Dyno test I read about.

So there you go, a possible 28 to 38 HP gain with some relatively easy mods.
1. i have tossed around the idea in my head before, but i was worried about engine bay looks. but if its good for up to 10 hp then i think i might want to do this. i always thought it was probably one of those 2-3 hp things.

i have never actually measured hood clearance. but i dont think i have alot. but i do have plans for a 4" cowl. but i guess i need to get off y butt and check.

my battery is still under the hood. if i put that in the trunk(planned anyways)i could plumb them into fenders and be semetrical. i havent looked or anything but, maybe could use the fog holes. after reading how heavy the fog brackets are i think i am gonna go no fogs.

2. they claim alot of hp on there site to. of course more than real life. damn now i really need to get this cowl hood. lol.

does the hp increase depending on the size? like does a 2" spacer see better gains than a 1" spacer?

3. timing chain flex, i do not.( in yoda voice) .i have gear drive. but anyways, the crank trigger drives the oil pump to? and how hard is it to install? i dont think the wiring for my dizzy or btm would be bad. because i have read those instructions so many time! lol if the install is somewhat painless, i am interested.


on a side note. i am just debating on mounting my slicks on my own rims. but nit sure yet. track day seems to be far away. we are swamped at worked right now. i may not have many days off the next couple months.

i really appreciate you looking out for me all the time. and i really appreciate your advice and knowledge.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 05:45 PM   #861
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
1. i have tossed around the idea in my head before, but i was worried about engine bay looks. but if its good for up to 10 hp then i think i might want to do this. i always thought it was probably one of those 2-3 hp things.

i have never actually measured hood clearance. but i dont think i have alot. but i do have plans for a 4" cowl. but i guess i need to get off y butt and check.

my battery is still under the hood. if i put that in the trunk(planned anyways)i could plumb them into fenders and be semetrical. i havent looked or anything but, maybe could use the fog holes. after reading how heavy the fog brackets are i think i am gonna go no fogs.

2. they claim alot of hp on there site to. of course more than real life. damn now i really need to get this cowl hood. lol.

does the hp increase depending on the size? like does a 2" spacer see better gains than a 1" spacer?

3. timing chain flex, i do not.( in yoda voice) .i have gear drive. but anyways, the crank trigger drives the oil pump to? and how hard is it to install? i dont think the wiring for my dizzy or btm would be bad. because i have read those instructions so many time! lol if the install is somewhat painless, i am interested.


on a side note. i am just debating on mounting my slicks on my own rims. but nit sure yet. track day seems to be far away. we are swamped at worked right now. i may not have many days off the next couple months.

i really appreciate you looking out for me all the time. and i really appreciate your advice and knowledge.
does the hp increase depending on the size? like does a 2" spacer see better gains than a 1" spacer?
No & yes. HP increase will depend on your engine combo.
A 2" spacer will increase the plenum volume for more high RPM power. I would go with the 1" on your engine.


the crank trigger drives the oil pump to? and how hard is it to install?
No, the oil pump is still driven by the cam/distributor.
Not hard to install at all. MSD Crank Trigger

The Crank Trigger has been added to my list of things to do for sure after reading the article about it in my Mustang Performance Tuning book.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 06:06 PM   #862
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

does the hp increase depending on the size? like does a 2" spacer see better gains than a 1" spacer?
No & yes. HP increase will depend on your engine combo.
A 2" spacer will increase the plenum volume for more high RPM power. I would go with the 1" on your engine.

the crank trigger drives the oil pump to? and how hard is it to install?
No, the oil pump is still driven by the cam/distributor.
Not hard to install at all. MSD Crank Trigger

The Crank Trigger has been added to my list of things to do for sure after reading the article about it in my Mustang Performance Tuning book.
I didn't think it drove the oil pump. But it looked like that's what you stated. Consider it on my list, and the spacer. now ill just have to find a way to make the list smaller.

As for the dual snorkel. I am gonna look into it. If I can't make it pretty I might not do it. Do you think going to the fog holes is hilljack?

Right now I have a cheap Holley high flow filter. The element is a cheesy foam. When I first upgraded my motor I had an identical edelbrock one (which didn't match) on there and before the timing was set, it backfired and shot a hole right throw the foam.

After all this overtime the next few months I am gonna pick up a wideband. And I will document adjustments and ratios for our purposes of knowing what actually goes on. And of course for keeping tuned.

---------- Post added at 06:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:01 PM ----------

The install of the crank trigger looks pretty simple also.[COLOR="Silver"]
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 06:25 PM   #863
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
I didn't think it drove the oil pump. But it looked like that's what you stated. Consider it on my list, and the spacer. now ill just have to find a way to make the list smaller.

As for the dual snorkel. I am gonna look into it. If I can't make it pretty I might not do it. Do you think going to the fog holes is hilljack?

Right now I have a cheap Holley high flow filter. The element is a cheesy foam. When I first upgraded my motor I had an identical edelbrock one (which didn't match) on there and before the timing was set, it backfired and shot a hole right throw the foam.

After all this overtime the next few months I am gonna pick up a wideband. And I will document adjustments and ratios for our purposes of knowing what actually goes on. And of course for keeping tuned.

---------- Post added at 06:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:01 PM ----------

The install of the crank trigger looks pretty simple also.[COLOR="Silver"]
Yeah, excuse the babbling in my posts.
Sometimes they get a bit confusing, but I meant to say that the distributor will still drive the oil pump.


As for the dual snorkel. I am gonna look into it. If I can't make it pretty I might not do it. Do you think going to the fog holes is hilljack?
That's what I was trying to get across. I saw a dual snorkel carb hat somewhere that would probably look better than a dual snorkel air cleaner, but you would need to mount air filters somewhere in the ducting. No I don't think it would be out of line to use the fog light holes, using the fog light holes is what I intend to do. Just put a few drain holes in the bottom in case of rain.


I had one of those "strainer" air cleaners on my built 429 for a little while. Then it farted once and burned it to a crisp.


I'm looking forward to seeing the results of the wideband tuning.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 06:40 PM   #864
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Yeah, excuse the babbling in my posts.
Sometimes they get a bit confusing, but I meant to say that the distributor will still drive the oil pump.

As for the dual snorkel. I am gonna look into it. If I can't make it pretty I might not do it. Do you think going to the fog holes is hilljack?
That's what I was trying to get across. I saw a dual snorkel carb hat somewhere that would probably look better than a dual snorkel air cleaner, but you would need to mount air filters somewhere in the ducting. No I don't think it would be out of line to use the fog light holes, using the fog light holes is what I intend to do. Just put a few drain holes in the bottom in case of rain.

I had one of those "strainer" air cleaners on my built 429 for a little while. Then it farted once and burned it to a crisp.

I'm looking forward to seeing the results of the wideband tuning.
i think i would just mount some cai type filters right on the end maybe. and stick them in the fog holes. i dont ever plan on driving my stang in the rain. its really only a weekend warrior. and i have spent alot of hours removing rust from the underside. but you never know so i will make sure to have some type of provision.

you must have given your 429 some bad gas! lmao
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 06:56 PM   #865
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
i think i would just mount some cai type filters right on the end maybe. and stick them in the fog holes. i dont ever plan on driving my stang in the rain. its really only a weekend warrior. and i have spent alot of hours removing rust from the underside. but you never know so i will make sure to have some type of provision.

you must have given your 429 some bad gas! lmao
It happened during a test and tune. Not enough advance and too much fuel.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2012, 09:15 PM   #866
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
I beat up on the mustang today. And when I got home and shut it off. It acted like the key was still on. I played with the key for a minute and couldn't get the power to kill. It did kill the engine, but not the main power. I still had the dash lights on and fuel pump running. The only thing I can thing of is the keyed ignition. Any thoughts?

I really need to put a kill switch on my fuel pump relay. Because it runs when the keys on. Which is fine. Bit if I need to work on something with the key on, or something like this happens it would be handy.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2012, 09:28 PM   #867
Registered Member
Regular
 
intensive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Region: Florida
Posts: 62
I had a igniton switch that did that to me.
intensive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2012, 09:30 PM   #868
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
I beat up on the mustang today. And when I got home and shut it off. It acted like the key was still on. I played with the key for a minute and couldn't get the power to kill. It did kill the engine, but not the main power. I still had the dash lights on and fuel pump running. The only thing I can thing of is the keyed ignition. Any thoughts?

I really need to put a kill switch on my fuel pump relay. Because it runs when the keys on. Which is fine. Bit if I need to work on something with the key on, or something like this happens it would be handy.
I agree, sounds like the ignition switch failed.


Yes, a hidden shut off switch would also be a good theft deterrent too.


P.S. You probably already know but if you ever go to start a Ford and the starter stays engaged, quickly remove the battery cables. What happens is that the starter relay contacts stick together and it will quickly over amp the wiring and can cause a fire. Learned this the hard way years ago on my 69 Mustang GT.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2012, 09:32 PM   #869
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by intensive View Post
I had a igniton switch that did that to me.
There we go, confirmation. Thank you.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2012, 09:35 PM   #870
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

I agree, sounds like the ignition switch failed.

Yes, a hidden shut off switch would also be a good theft deterrent too.

P.S. You probably already know but if you ever go to start a Ford and the starter stays engaged, quickly remove the battery cables. What happens is that the starter relay contacts stick together and it will quickly over amp the wiring and can cause a fire. Learned this the hard way years ago on my 69 Mustang GT.
Yes. Well I scrambled around pretty quick when my pump stayed on. as hot as my motor was and the pump was just running. And I am not using a return.
My buddy with the ranger had a relay stick when we where working on it. And the actual battery started smoking in about 20 seconds it seemed like.

Thanks for the input guys. Maybe until I get a new one ill try the old hillbilly hammer it till it works trick. Haha
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2012, 09:39 PM   #871
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
Yes. Well I scrambled around pretty quick when my pump stayed on. as hot as my motor was and the pump was just running. And I am not using a return.
My buddy with the ranger had a relay stick when we where working on it. And the actual battery started smoking in about 20 seconds it seemed like.

Thanks for the input guys. Maybe until I get a new one ill try the old hillbilly hammer it till it works trick. Haha
Note: Scenarios like that, it can be either the mechanical or the electrical portion of the switch. If you can swing it, replacing both is probably a good idea.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2012, 10:22 PM   #872
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Note: Scenarios like that, it can be either the mechanical or the electrical portion of the switch. If you can swing it, replacing both is probably a good idea.
I am definitely replacing the whole thing.

---------- Post added at 10:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 PM ----------

on the plus side of things. i made some good tire smoke. about 5 compliments, a good amount of drool and a nice woody for having good seat time! :
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2012, 10:57 PM   #873
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
I am definitely replacing the whole thing.

---------- Post added at 10:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 PM ----------

on the plus side of things. i made some good tire smoke. about 5 compliments, a good amount of drool and a nice woody for having good seat time! :
Spent fuel, burning rubber and tire smoke. It don't get no better than that.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2012, 06:48 PM   #874
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
I was thinking.... Uh oh...haha.
Could this be related to a wire I could have messed up or came loose, with all the rewiring and msd stuff? And I should be able to test it right? I don't know if the test is in the haynes or not.

But I'm assuming: I should always have 12 volts to the "in" side of the switch. And not on the other side of the switch. I am assuming that I have power on both sides of the switch because of my problem. So if I pull the "in" side wire and loose power then the switch is faulty. If I pull the the wire and still have power on the other side then its getting it somewhere else.

This is just to be sure. I feel like I did a solid wiring job. But there are still some wires that I haven't attended to also. Does this sound like a proper way to test it?
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2012, 07:46 PM   #875
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
I was thinking.... Uh oh...haha.
Could this be related to a wire I could have messed up or came loose, with all the rewiring and msd stuff? And I should be able to test it right? I don't know if the test is in the haynes or not.

But I'm assuming: I should always have 12 volts to the "in" side of the switch. And not on the other side of the switch. I am assuming that I have power on both sides of the switch because of my problem. So if I pull the "in" side wire and loose power then the switch is faulty. If I pull the the wire and still have power on the other side then its getting it somewhere else.

This is just to be sure. I feel like I did a solid wiring job. But there are still some wires that I haven't attended to also. Does this sound like a proper way to test it?
It's possible and yes you should be able to test it.
Locate the constant input terminal then cycle through and test the other terminals to see if the power turns off and on as it should.


If you remove the constant input wire and still have power then yes it is back feeding from somewhere.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1979-1995 Mustang GT

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


» Like Us On Facebook



07:32 AM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.