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Old 06-03-2012, 07:48 PM   #876
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ok . thanx. thats what i figured i just wanted to be sure.
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Old 06-04-2012, 05:38 PM   #877
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I didn't do the full test yet. But I hooked up a kill switch on the relay. And I just have this hunch that its not the ignition switch.

Only the battery light comes on, on the dash. And I get the 12 volts at the fuel pump relay. Normally the pump wouldn't run in this situation but mine does because I bypassed the ecu.

So I need to find where the fuel pump relay and battery light have common ground. I am studying the schematics as we speak. But I am not that great with them. It takes me a while. Lol
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:53 PM   #878
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Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
I didn't do the full test yet. But I hooked up a kill switch on the relay. And I just have this hunch that its not the ignition switch.

Only the battery light comes on, on the dash. And I get the 12 volts at the fuel pump relay. Normally the pump wouldn't run in this situation but mine does because I bypassed the ecu.

So I need to find where the fuel pump relay and battery light have common ground. I am studying the schematics as we speak. But I am not that great with them. It takes me a while. Lol
Your best bet may be to run some new wiring.
Use a wire from the ignition switch or fuse box that is only hot in the run position to energize the fuel pump relay coil.
Then you are assured that when you turn the ignition switch off the fuel pump is turned off too.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:00 AM   #879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Your best bet may be to run some new wiring.
Use a wire from the ignition switch or fuse box that is only hot in the run position to energize the fuel pump relay coil.
Then you are assured that when you turn the ignition switch off the fuel pump is turned off too.
Well I installed a kill switch on the fuel pump. So I can shut that off whenever I want now. But that still won't help fix the battery light staying on right?
This is just really tricky.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:10 AM   #880
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Re: what it takes...

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Well I installed a kill switch on the fuel pump. So I can shut that off whenever I want now. But that still won't help fix the battery light staying on right?
This is just really tricky.
No, it won't.
The battery light has to be fed through the ignition switch I would think. No need for it to have been routed through the ECU that I can think of.
Have you verified that when the switch is off the outgoing terminals are dead?
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:17 AM   #881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

No, it won't.
The battery light has to be fed through the ignition switch I would think. No need for it to have been routed through the ECU that I can think of.
Have you verified that when the switch is off the outgoing terminals are dead?
I didn't play long yesterday. I hooked up the kill switch on the fuel pump and wiggled a few wires. I did take the trim off the ignition switch. And there was no quick way off disconnecting the "power in" on the switch to test it. But I will get deeper in today.

I can get the same results by testing continuity to the out side off the ignition switch and the + battery lead unhooked. This way I don't have to disconnect anything. I just need to figure out which wires are what, but I should be able to figure that out with my meter.

Also I don't know if this means anything or not. But when I turn the key forward the battery light shuts off but the fuel pump still runs.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:25 AM   #882
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Re: what it takes...

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I didn't play long yesterday. I hooked up the kill switch on the fuel pump and wiggled a few wires. I did take the trim off the ignition switch. And there was no quick way off disconnecting the "power in" on the switch to test it. But I will get deeper in today.

I can get the same results by testing continuity to the out side off the ignition switch and the + battery lead unhooked. This way I don't have to disconnect anything. I just need to figure out which wires are what, but I should be able to figure that out with my meter.

Also I don't know if this means anything or not. But when I turn the key forward the battery light shuts off but the fuel pump still runs.
To run a continuity test on the switch you really need to remove all of the wires from the switch so it doesn't back feed through any of them.


How far forward? To "Run" or "Start"?
If to "Run", that's what it should do.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:34 AM   #883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

To run a continuity test on the switch you really need to remove all of the wires from the switch so it doesn't back feed through any of them.

How far forward? To "Run" or "Start"?
If to "Run", that's what it should do.
Ok. So there should be a harness for the switch somewhere right? Then I could do the test there? Or will unhooking the whole harness take away the in wire? Or should I take the harness off and jumper the in feed wire back together?

Sorry for all the questions. I'm not the best with trouble shooting this kind of stuff.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:49 AM   #884
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Re: what it takes...

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Ok. So there should be a harness for the switch somewhere right? Then I could do the test there? Or will unhooking the whole harness take away the in wire? Or should I take the harness off and jumper the in feed wire back together?

Sorry for all the questions. I'm not the best with trouble shooting this kind of stuff.




Yes, I don't remember exactly how the harness connects to the switch, but disconnecting it should remove the power wire too. When using a continuity tester you want your wires to be un-energized with no power in them otherwise it will damage your continuity tester.


I would remove the switch wiring connector/harness and test the switch terminals with a continuity tester to ensure they turn off and on as they should. Once that is verified to be in working order, then start tracing the wires.
If you find the battery light in your wiring diagram, you should be able to trace it backwards to its power source and then determine why it is staying on.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:54 AM   #885
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Ok. I'll do that.

I.was gonna do the original continuity test with the battery unhooked.

I also had trouble finding where the battery light goes in the Haynes schematic. I am gonna see if I can find a better schematic.

Thanx for the help.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:22 PM   #886
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Re: what it takes...

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Ok. I'll do that.

I.was gonna do the original continuity test with the battery unhooked.

I also had trouble finding where the battery light goes in the Haynes schematic. I am gonna see if I can find a better schematic.

Thanx for the help.
The Very Useful or Ford Fuel Injection sites may have a better diagram.
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:15 PM   #887
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ok. i am still testing right now. but i have power on the ignition switch with the key off, on the yellow wires. which is fine because they go to the starter relay. what throws a red flag, is i have power on 2 wires that go to the coil and tfi. those are wires that are tapped into for the msd stuff.
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:23 PM   #888
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the red and green wire that go to the coil are the original + on the coil. it got wired to the msd box to the smaller red wire. i am gonna peel plastic conduit and check connectins
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Old 06-05-2012, 05:38 PM   #889
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ok. first, sorry for all the posts. i am trying to document everything i test and keep track of what im doing. and possibly something will spark with anyone reading.

but anyways. with battery unplugged. i unhooked the msd wires. and i am getting continuity through the large red and small red wired that run to the msd box. Hmmmm......
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:21 PM   #890
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I found common ground in the schematic. Is the regulator on the alternator?
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:37 PM   #891
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And one other thing. When I plug the battery on and off, I was hearing a clicking noise. I traced it to this relay. It has damaged wires on it. I unplugged to relay and it didn't change my symptoms. But the click it makes is pretty loud when I plug in the battery. Here is a pic. Ohh and its located between the passenger side strut tower and headlight area.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:55 PM   #892
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Re: what it takes...

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ok. first, sorry for all the posts. i am trying to document everything i test and keep track of what im doing. and possibly something will spark with anyone reading.

but anyways. with battery unplugged. i unhooked the msd wires. and i am getting continuity through the large red and small red wired that run to the msd box. Hmmmm......
Post as much as you need to. You may get continuity through those two wires IF they have a common supply source or connection somewhere, which basically all of the powered wires will have at some point in the wiring harness.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
And one other thing. When I plug the battery on and off, I was hearing a clicking noise. I traced it to this relay. It has damaged wires on it. I unplugged to relay and it didn't change my symptoms. But the click it makes is pretty loud when I plug in the battery. Here is a pic. Ohh and its located between the passenger side strut tower and headlight area.

I don't know what that relay would be for unless it is maybe the fog light or horn relay?
Your car is an 89? (Sorry, can't remember. )
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:00 PM   #893
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After staring at this dumb schematic for schematic forever. I may have a culprit. My hunch is the the voltage regulator. If you follow the orange/lt blue wire it goes to the starter relay. Then follow the green wire from the starter relay to the voltage regulator, it comes out to the red/light green wire that I suspected.

---------- Post added at 08:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:56 PM ----------

My car is an 88. Here is the schematic. Does what I say sound right? The red/ light green from the ignition switch has power all the time. Which is the same wire that originally hooks to the +coil. I think the voltage is leaking through the regulator.

Is there a way to check the regulator?
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:08 PM   #894
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Re: what it takes...

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After staring at this dumb schematic for schematic forever. I may have a culprit. My hunch is the the voltage regulator. If you follow the orange/lt blue wire it goes to the starter relay. Then follow the green wire from the starter relay to the voltage regulator, it comes out to the red/light green wire that I suspected.

---------- Post added at 08:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:56 PM ----------

My car is an 88. Here is the schematic. Does what I say sound right? The red/ light green from the ignition switch has power all the time. Which is the same wire that originally hooks to the +coil. I think the voltage is leaking through the regulator.

Is there a way to check the regulator?
The voltage regulator is built into the alternator and I suppose they can test it as part of an alternator test at one of your local auto parts stores.


If you start the engine and the voltage kicks up to 14.5 or maybe a bit higher, then falls back down 12.5 -13 volts after a few minutes of running, then I would say the regulator is working correctly. More involved testing I'm not familiar with, sorry.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:12 PM   #895
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Re: what it takes...

Note: Voltage drains used to be fairly easy to find in the old days when you turned the switch off and everything went dead, but with these cars constantly drawing power for the ECU, radio, etc., it is a lot more difficult to isolate other causes.

Have you been able to completely remove the ECU from the car's wiring?
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:14 PM   #896
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I got it!!!! I traced all.the wires that hook to the regulator and found 2 of them shorted together. They must have been knicked or something but they were welded together.

I am not gonna repair them today. I am done! I flippin hate electrical!!!!!!! Time for shower and relax.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:17 PM   #897
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When the voltage reg went bad on my car it fried the diodes and made a constant draw on the batt even with the car off..i'd charge the batt and the next day it'd be dead..plus it put a constant draw on the alt while it was running bogging the eng down..if I unplugged the volt reg when it was running it would idle smooth (but of course drain the batt) till I plugged it back in..
Anywho just to double check I had it tested and it failed miserably!!...lol
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:19 PM   #898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66
When the voltage reg went bad on my car it fried the diodes and made a constant draw on the batt even with the car off..i'd charge the batt and the next day it'd be dead..plus it put a constant draw on the alt while it was running bogging the eng down..if I unplugged the volt reg when it was running it would idle smooth (but of course drain the batt) till I plugged it back in..
Anywho just to double check I had it tested and it failed miserably!!...lol
Makes sense. I wondering if it had been messing up intermittently. Maybe related to when my car died? Idk. Also it seems like my idle was kicking way down lately when my fan kicked on.. hmmm......
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:21 PM   #899
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Re: what it takes...

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I got it!!!! I traced all.the wires that hook to the regulator and found 2 of them shorted together. They must have been knicked or something but they were welded together.

I am not gonna repair them today. I am done! I flippin hate electrical!!!!!!! Time for shower and relax.
Success!


I hate tracking issues, but I actually like designing and wiring new systems.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:23 PM   #900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Success!

I hate tracking issues, but I actually like designing and wiring new systems.
I hate it to. I am not confident one bit in my electrical trouble shooting. Lol. I don't mind wiring up new stuff though.but I am not much of a designer . Haha.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:24 PM   #901
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I think mike and I had this same convo...I HATE tracing electrical bs!.but runnin your own or creating somethin new is still fun.

---------- Post added at 08:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:24 PM ----------

Ps that was TH
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:24 PM   #902
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Don't it seem like I get the strangest problems pop out of no where all the time? When I find that damn law maker Murphy , I am gonna kick his @$$.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:26 PM   #903
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Let me know cuz I owe him a few *** beatings myself!!
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:27 PM   #904
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I say we jump him. Haha
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:53 PM   #905
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I say we jump him. Haha
I'll lure him in and you two put the hurt on him.
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:23 PM   #906
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I'll lure him in and you two put the hurt on him.
Sounds like a plan. Lol.
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:27 PM   #907
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ok. so i decided i dont like shiny paint. i took the day off from work. and plastidipped my whole car. it looks pretty good.
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:38 PM   #908
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How much did that cost?
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:40 PM   #909
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priceless!
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:42 PM   #910
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I hope your joking!!

---------- Post added at 05:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:41 PM ----------

If so you have hit the gonja one to many times lol I love the shiny look
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