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Old 06-22-2012, 10:34 PM   #1016
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yup. maybe bring a few schematics. we would be kings.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:40 PM   #1017
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Re: what it takes...

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It really would be awesome to start over again and adjust my heading, steer clear of a few things, but only if I can end up where I'm at now.
You betcha'. Knowing what to do and when to do it would make a huge improvement.


P.S. Let's not forget to take a list of winning lottery numbers too. Who's going to have time to work with all the playing we could do?
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:42 PM   #1018
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You betcha'. Knowing what to do and when to do it would make a huge improvement.

P.S. Let's not forget to take a list of winning lottery numbers too. Who's going to have time to work with all the playing we could do?
Indeed Do you think we would still want Mustangs? Um...yupadoodle!
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:32 AM   #1019
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Re: what it takes...

Wideband for ALL!............................Cylinders that is.

Check this out - AEM 4-Channel


These (2 of them) would work great with my PMS as it has the capability to tune each individual cylinder. You could really maximize power and efficiency with that combination.
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:50 AM   #1020
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Wideband for ALL!............................Cylinders that is.

Check this out - AEM 4-Channel

These (2 of them) would work great with my PMS as it has the capability to tune each individual cylinder. You could really maximize power and efficiency with that combination.
Yeah that's serious! Nice
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Old 06-25-2012, 06:14 AM   #1021
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Will the PMS allow you to dial in timing on every cylinder to? That would be Awsome to. I know a lot of race cars have those msd distributors you can adjust. And they set timing on every cylinder.

I think your setup is gonna be one of the most tunable you get. I can't wait.
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:26 AM   #1022
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Re: what it takes...

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Will the PMS allow you to dial in timing on every cylinder to? That would be Awsome to. I know a lot of race cars have those msd distributors you can adjust. And they set timing on every cylinder.

I think your setup is gonna be one of the most tunable you get. I can't wait.
Yes, it has provisions for timing and fuel to each cylinder, but it would take some careful tuning with 2 of those AEM 4-Channel Widebands to get it done.


I can't wait either.
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:26 PM   #1023
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Yes, it has provisions for timing and fuel to each cylinder, but it would take some careful tuning with 2 of those AEM 4-Channel Widebands to get it done.

I can't wait either.

what should i try to tune mine to? i dont remember. maybe a/f around 13. but no higher?

sometime this week, i will get to the rack. i am not for sure if i am gonna use the parts from it or not. i am gonna give mine a good inspection. and if my stuff is ok then ill just leave it all with it. i never had any signs of bad tie rods. i just originally planned to use them since they were so new. but i dont think its worth the hassle if mine are fine. and i also am wondering if the bad sway i use to feel was more the old shocks i use to have. cause it drove great the last few times. but i will let you know after i inspect it. then if it all checks out ill send her your way late next week sometime. and sorry its taking a while, even though i know your in no hurry. just wanted to let you know my plans.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:18 PM   #1024
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as long as you can pull 1.2 jiga watts out of your charging system!
Fyi it's 1.21 jigawatts!!..jeeez don't you know anything about time travel?!...lol
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:20 PM   #1025
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Fyi it's 1.21 jigawatts!!..jeeez don't you know anything about time travel?!...lol
Oh crap. Ughhh i was just rounding for simple math....duh!
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:23 PM   #1026
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Oh crap. Ughhh i was just rounding for simple math....duh!
Never round during time travel!..if you did that you'd go 90mph instead of the exactly 88.8mph!..haha
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:27 PM   #1027
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Never round during time travel!..if you did that you'd go 90mph instead of the exactly 88.8mph!..haha
lmao. sorry. ill keep that in mind. my time travel skills are rusty but dont worry man being .01 off, would only raise the duty cycle of the flux capacitor by .7% .
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:30 PM   #1028
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lmao. sorry. ill keep that in mind. my time travel skills are rusty but dont worry man being .01 off, would only raise the duty cycle of the flux capacitor by .7% .
I just want the amp mcfly's jammin in the begging
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:31 PM   #1029
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I just want the amp mcfly's jammin in the begging
just try not to blow it.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:54 PM   #1030
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Re: what it takes...

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what should i try to tune mine to? i dont remember. maybe a/f around 13. but no higher?

sometime this week, i will get to the rack. i am not for sure if i am gonna use the parts from it or not. i am gonna give mine a good inspection. and if my stuff is ok then ill just leave it all with it. i never had any signs of bad tie rods. i just originally planned to use them since they were so new. but i dont think its worth the hassle if mine are fine. and i also am wondering if the bad sway i use to feel was more the old shocks i use to have. cause it drove great the last few times. but i will let you know after i inspect it. then if it all checks out ill send her your way late next week sometime. and sorry its taking a while, even though i know your in no hurry. just wanted to let you know my plans.
The old ideal A/F ratio used to be 12.5:1, the ideal A/F ratio now is around 12.8:1 to 13.2:1, due to improved combustion chambers and hotter (MSD ) ignitions.


The sway could have very well been caused by bad shocks. Also check your front stabilizer bar end links and all of your suspension (rubber) bushings. Wear or slop in those could also cause it.


Don't worry about that rack. Get your car in order and anything else you need to do first.
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:50 PM   #1031
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The old ideal A/F ratio used to be 12.5:1, the ideal A/F ratio now is around 12.8:1 to 13.2:1, due to improved combustion chambers and hotter (MSD ) ignitions.

The sway could have very well been caused by bad shocks. Also check your front stabilizer bar end links and all of your suspension (rubber) bushings. Wear or slop in those could also cause it.

Don't worry about that rack. Get your car in order and anything else you need to do first.
I changed the end links already. And yeah. I will check the bushings to for chits.

---------- Post added at 09:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 PM ----------

My hillbilly lowering kit maybe part of it. But like I said Iran not so bad anymore since I have been driving it.

Once I did the shocks,struts, lca's, and subframes. It feels a lot better. I had it over 100 and forgot that there was a previous sway. I was suprised how good it felt.

I have ordered from summit almost 20 times this year. and 18 of them were ups. Well this time and the other were fedex. nd FedEx is an extra day! Ughh
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:10 PM   #1032
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Oh yeah!
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:17 PM   #1033
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Oh yeah!
Saweeeet!!..
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:20 PM   #1034
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The summit brand rims I think are knock off of my draglites. I may use my own center caps, then it won't look dumb.be cause the rim itself matches perfectly
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:26 PM   #1035
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Yeah the look identical from the pic...
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:28 PM   #1036
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Yeah the look identical from the pic...
Yeah. The only thing I see different is the draglite may except 2 different bolt patterns. Because there are 8 holes for the lug nuts. But 4 have plugs in them. And they take different lug nuts. But design is identical.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:00 PM   #1037
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Dont you need certain lugs to run slicks?..or somethin like that?..
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:06 PM   #1038
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Dont you need certain lugs to run slicks?..or somethin like that?..
yes. but im hoping 41 dont care?!?

you have to have minimum 3" studs with through nuts. the rule was originally 3 threads sticking out. but they went to 3" studs so they didnt have to count threads. they can just quick glance and tell they are long.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:09 PM   #1039
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yes. but im hoping 41 dont care?!?

you have to have minimum 3" studs with through nuts. the rule was originally 3 threads sticking out. but they went to 3" studs so they didnt have to count threads. they can just quick glance and tell they are long.
Pfff...41 yeah you're all good!!...lol 66 you'd be fu©ked!.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:11 PM   #1040
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Pfff...41 yeah you're all good!!...lol 66 you'd be fu©ked!.
thats what i figured. now if i could get away with a topless pass! lol lowflyn told me he ran an 11 with top down.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:19 PM   #1041
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thats what i figured. now if i could get away with a topless pass! lol lowflyn told me he ran an 11 with top down.
That would be epic!..haha..
Where's lowflyn run at?..
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:20 PM   #1042
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im not sure. he posts alot in the "at track " section though. i never noticed where.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:56 PM   #1043
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Re: what it takes...

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Oh yeah!
Oh heck yeah! I just love getting car performance/tuning parts in the mail.

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The summit brand rims I think are knock off of my draglites. I may use my own center caps, then it won't look dumb.be cause the rim itself matches perfectly
The Weld Draglites are forged and the Jeg's wheels are cast is the difference.
That's why the Jegs are much cheaper.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:00 PM   #1044
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Oh heck yeah! I just love getting car performance/tuning parts in the mail.

The Weld Draglites are forged and the Jeg's wheels are cast is the difference.
That's why the Jegs are much cheaper.
Ahh ok. That would be why. They doe say 2800lb per wheel load. So Hell, they are still strong enough.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:09 PM   #1045
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Ahh ok. That would be why. They doe say 2800lb per wheel load. So Hell, they are still strong enough.
Yes, I think they are fine.
They have to meet certain standards to be considered safe enough for street driven cars, so I believe they are plenty strong enough.
Sorry if I raised some doubts, I didn't intend to worry, just inform.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:17 PM   #1046
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Yes, I think they are fine.
They have to meet certain standards to be considered safe enough for street driven cars, so I believe they are plenty strong enough.
Sorry if I raised some doubts, I didn't intend to worry, just inform.
Oh no doubts what so ever. I had just seen that on the rim.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:24 PM   #1047
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I was just gunna ask if a cast wheel would stand up to a hefty hole shoot on slicks,but I guess ya'll answered that question...
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:37 PM   #1048
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Re: what it takes...

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I was just gunna ask if a cast wheel would stand up to a hefty hole shoot on slicks,but I guess ya'll answered that question...
I believe they will without any problems.


Back in the "day" all we had were cast wheels and the only ones I ever knew of that would break were the Cragar 5-spoke mags and that was usually because of side loading from getting out of control.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:41 PM   #1049
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i am gonna get my tires mounted till saturday. my father in law works at a tire shop on sats. he usually does me for free. i cant wait to see them on there! im not gonna put the springs on yet till track day. but i will probably have to jack her up a bit.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:43 PM   #1050
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I believe they will without any problems.

Back in the "day" all we had were cast wheels and the only ones I ever knew of that would break were the Cragar 5-spoke mags and that was usually because of side loading from getting out of control.
Side loading like uneven tire pressure on the launch?..
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