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Old 12-31-2011, 01:43 AM   #106
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Re: what it takes...

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If u pick up the 4seconds flat book before I do let me know how it is.

I want to do all my tuning myself.I am not the most experienced.but I am a very mechanically inclined and very willing to learn.I study and research everything I do that I'm not 100% sure on.with that being was thinking it would not be worth it to have my car dyno tuned.I would like to see my numbers and all but even if I did get it professionally tuned I still have to be able to keep it in good tune myself. What is your thoughts on it? Also do dyno shops let u pay for "dyno time" and let u do the tuning yourself? The thing that scares me about professional dyno tune is that sometimes the "professionals" don't shoot for good/safe hp, they shoot for max hp which may not be reliable.
Will do on the book. This is the correct one isn't it? "Tuning To Win"

You appear to approach your projects and repairs in the same manner as I do. I have tuned my vehicles myself for years relying on research, past experience, plug reading, seat of the pants feel, my eyes and ears.
There's little doubt that I may be missing some fine tuning and a few HP here and there. You will develop a feel for your car and will be able to tell if it is not performing up to its full potential over time. One of the most important things to do is to keep a log of everything you do to the car and how it responds to new parts and tuning changes. There are gadgets with accelerometers and even programs for some smart phones that will serve as a "poor man's" Dyno to help you tune and be able to see the differences.

Some shops will let you tune your own car, but the cost is still pretty high as Dynos are expensive and they have to recoup their money anytime it's being used. You can also get them to do a "Safe Tune" if that's what you want. If I were able to Dyno tune I would do both a max power and a safe tune. Run the safe on the street and the max at the track.
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Old 12-31-2011, 04:39 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Will do on the book. This is the correct one isn't it? "Tuning To Win"

You appear to approach your projects and repairs in the same manner as I do. I have tuned my vehicles myself for years relying on research, past experience, plug reading, seat of the pants feel, my eyes and ears.
There's little doubt that I may be missing some fine tuning and a few HP here and there. You will develop a feel for your car and will be able to tell if it is not performing up to its full potential over time. One of the most important things to do is to keep a log of everything you do to the car and how it responds to new parts and tuning changes. There are gadgets with accelerometers and even programs for some smart phones that will serve as a "poor man's" Dyno to help you tune and be able to see the differences.

Some shops will let you tune your own car, but the cost is still pretty high as Dynos are expensive and they have to recoup their money anytime it's being used. You can also get them to do a "Safe Tune" if that's what you want. If I were able to Dyno tune I would do both a max power and a safe tune. Run the safe on the street and the max at the track.
yes that is the book.the author seems to be a performance genious from the small articles ive read from his site.

my main goal in any kind of dyno time i would have to say would be reassurance in my own personal work.its always nice to have numbers on paper to see how well i set my car up.kind of like getting a report card in school.lol.i like to call myself young and inexperienced and havent done a project like this before so i just want to challenge myself and see how good i did.not to many people are running around with a roots type blown fox.

i never really thought about logging my tuning but that seems like it would be a great idea.i have, since i bought the car kept every single receipt and instuction sheet for every part i bought for the car.i keep it in a (overloaded)folder.

i will keep posted and thanx again!
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Old 01-04-2012, 04:24 PM   #108
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Finally got my btm back today.I got some running to do but I think I may hook it up tonight.I am gonna try what we talked about with my air compressor and check the timing ******.unfortunately we have had snow already so I don't think I'm gonna test drive it. ill have results on the test hopefully tonight if not later.
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:34 PM   #109
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It works!yay. It retarded the timing just like we thought it would with a little compressed air.I need finish hiding the wires in the plastic conduit and move my tac wires to the box.but just glad that it works now.I also need to extend the wires on the knob to reach my dash area.I have it mounted next to my overflow on the passenger side.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:59 AM   #110
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Re: what it takes...

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It works!yay. It retarded the timing just like we thought it would with a little compressed air.I need finish hiding the wires in the plastic conduit and move my tac wires to the box.but just glad that it works now.I also need to extend the wires on the knob to reach my dash area.I have it mounted next to my overflow on the passenger side.
Fantastic! I'm glad to hear that it's working out for you.
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:31 PM   #111
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Went with the iequus gauges.but just the water temp and boost.I will mount them together with my tac.the wideband I will mount somewhere else to cut down on the tac.that wideband is expensive so still waiting to purchase it..
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:43 PM   #112
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Also had another question.
Right now with my current setup.I have 2 fuel lines up to the motor.my guess is one is a return line.my fuel pump that is on there right now is still in the tank.from the previous research I did most in tank pump are the higher pressure fi pumps.so to make that work previous owner used a non adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a return line.in the attached, one line runs in the bottom and one out/in the side of said fuel fuel pressure reg.does all this sound right?
Also if all this is right can I toss the second line?
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:45 PM   #113
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That is a fuel press reg right? Only one line goes to the carb.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:24 PM   #114
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Re: what it takes...

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Also had another question.
Right now with my current setup.I have 2 fuel lines up to the motor.my guess is one is a return line.my fuel pump that is on there right now is still in the tank.from the previous research I did most in tank pump are the higher pressure fi pumps.so to make that work previous owner used a non adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a return line.in the attached, one line runs in the bottom and one out/in the side of said fuel fuel pressure reg.does all this sound right?
Also if all this is right can I toss the second line?
You'll need that second line as the return won't you?
What you have appears to be correct, although I have never seen a regulator like that.
It must be a factory regulator or special made for that purpose?
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:28 PM   #115
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im not sure if i need it or not.i know right now i need it because i believe i have a stock style high psi pump.my new pump is a lower psi pump.since the new pump will be the proper pressure i still need it?or is a return line always used?if so i would like to find a better way of doing it.the current setup is a little tacky.and i have never seen a reg like that either.but thats the only thing i can think it would be.if it was a filter it would probably ot have 3 ports.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:45 PM   #116
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Re: what it takes...

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im not sure if i need it or not.i know right now i need it because i believe i have a stock style high psi pump.my new pump is a lower psi pump.since the new pump will be the proper pressure i still need it?or is a return line always used?if so i would like to find a better way of doing it.the current setup is a little tacky.and i have never seen a reg like that either.but thats the only thing i can think it would be.if it was a filter it would probably ot have 3 ports.
If the new pump supplies the correct pressure, I suppose you wouldn't need it, but if it's not internally regulated you might.

On most of my old carbureted cars, I usually ended up needing a return line once I found a fuel pump that would supply enough fuel. Of course that was back in the day. It's possible with new technology that isn't the case any longer.

It's one of those "Darned if you do and darned if you don't" things.
I think I would cap it off and keep it JIC you do need it at some point.

Check the pump you have or are getting to replace what you have and see if they recommend a regulator or not and if it is internally regulated.

Oh yeah I almost forgot. As long as you are not returning a lot of fuel, constantly a regulator using a return line will help you keep cooler, denser fuel up to the carb which will result in better performance.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:46 PM   #117
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I took some better pics.u can see how the hose on the side has to loop around to get back to the return line.

On the new adjustable reg it has 3 ports .and then another one that looks different.so 1 is in and the other one I can hook to the return?

I also snapped a pic of my new duel feed line for the carb(I don't have yet).
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:49 PM   #118
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I will check the pump.I already have it.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:00 PM   #119
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It does not say anything about return.here is a figure it shows when using a reg.
I think I may leave it and cap it off for now.

Thanx again for the replies! this is getting to be a long thread.lol
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:10 PM   #120
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Re: what it takes...

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Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
I took some better pics.u can see how the hose on the side has to loop around to get back to the return line.

On the new adjustable reg it has 3 ports .and then another one that looks different.so 1 is in and the other one I can hook to the return?

I also snapped a pic of my new duel feed line for the carb(I don't have yet).
Usually the regulator intake port comes from the pump/tank and into the bottom of the regulator (sometimes filtered there), then you go out to the carb using either one or both of the other ports for single or dual feed to the carb. If there is a return/bypass it is sometimes located on the side of the regulator and it should return to the fuel tank.

What they did on the setup you have appears to just reroute the fuel to the backside of the regulator, which doesn't make much sense because the fuel is just recirculating there and picking up more heat from the engine. Which is not good for performance.

Nice dual feed. Most of mine were home made out of repurposed brass fittings and copper tubing. Kind of crude, but they worked.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:14 PM   #121
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Re: what it takes...

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It does not say anything about return.here is a figure it shows when using a reg.
I think I may leave it and cap it off for now.

Thanx again for the replies! this is getting to be a long thread.lol
Yeah, that's it.

One thing though.
Your regulator picture has a blue cap on top opposit the brass fitting.
What is that blue cap?
Is the adjustment under there or is that another port?
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:30 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Usually the regulator intake port comes from the pump/tank and into the bottom of the regulator (sometimes filtered there), then you go out to the carb using either one or both of the other ports for single or dual feed to the carb. If there is a return/bypass it is sometimes located on the side of the regulator and it should return to the fuel tank.

What they did on the setup you have appears to just reroute the fuel to the backside of the regulator, which doesn't make much sense because the fuel is just recirculating there and picking up more heat from the engine. Which is not good for performance.

Nice dual feed. Most of mine were home made out of repurposed brass fittings and copper tubing. Kind of crude, but they worked.
yeah i thought it was a little wierd also.but im not the most experienced and sometimes it can be a pain figuring out other peoples work.

thanx! it was only 40$ and included the little fuel pressure gauge.

do u think i should mount the reg by the carb for easy adjustments or by the pump?im sure this is a preference thing but just wanted ur opinion.

---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:16 PM ----------

all 3 ports have the blue cap.i think the 3rd port is to hook a fuel gauge to.the brass fitting is the adjustment screw.

---------- Post added at 10:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:20 PM ----------

here is the pdf instructions.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...hly-12-802.pdf
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:57 PM   #123
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Re: what it takes...

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do u think i should mount the reg by the carb for easy adjustments or by the pump?im sure this is a preference thing but just wanted ur opinion.
If you were using both outlet ports, which I assume you are not since you have the dual feed line, I would mount it close to the carb.

Using a single line out of the regulator to feed the carb I would mount the regulator on the inner fender. (To reduce heat soak from the engine into the metal regulator.)
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:42 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

If you were using both outlet ports, which I assume you are not since you have the dual feed line, I would mount it close to the carb.

Using a single line out of the regulator to feed the carb I would mount the regulator on the inner fender. (To reduce heat soak from the engine into the metal regulator.)
Ok.cool same as I was thinking.thanx
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:48 PM   #125
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yesterday i went by a buddies house that just changed his fuel pump on a 2.3 ranger and if my pump is anything like his i will definately fab my own pick up tube.it looks really simple and have a nice easy plan.that is if mine is the same as his,which im willing to bet they are similar.
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:54 PM   #126
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Re: what it takes...

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yesterday i went by a buddies house that just changed his fuel pump on a 2.3 ranger and if my pump is anything like his i will definately fab my own pick up tube.it looks really simple and have a nice easy plan.that is if mine is the same as his,which im willing to bet they are similar.
Here's a diagram for modifying the pick up tube.
Sorry for the late reply.
I saved the link to reply to this then I promptly forgot.
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:07 PM   #127
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Here's a diagram for modifying the pick up tube.
Sorry for the late reply.
I saved the link to reply to this then I promptly forgot.
sweet! thanx man.it looks pretty simple to do.one less 100$.

my s/c and carb purchase will be coming in a few weeks. now my overtime got cut i just got to figure out how to get the wideband.and i still need the v6 belt tensioner.but i maybe starting my install by next month.i cant wait.

ive been reading the supertuning book.there is alot to learn in there.good purchase.
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:23 PM   #128
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Re: what it takes...

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sweet! thanx man.it looks pretty simple to do.one less 100$.

my s/c and carb purchase will be coming in a few weeks. now my overtime got cut i just got to figure out how to get the wideband.and i still need the v6 belt tensioner.but i maybe starting my install by next month.i cant wait.

ive been reading the supertuning book.there is alot to learn in there.good purchase.
No problem, glad to help.


I haven't found the wide-band (nor can I afford yet) I'm going to need yet either.
I want to find one that interfaces with the AFM PMS tuner if possible.


That Holley Supertuning book guided me through lots of carb modifications and builds over the years. I was sure you would get some good from it.
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:21 AM   #129
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Have you had any luck making big purchases from Amazon.com. I can save 130$.I'm not sure if there's a warranty but I didn't see a phone number on the website.ill check further into it when I get home.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JI...6733911&sr=8-3
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:21 PM   #130
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Have you had any luck making big purchases from Amazon.com. I can save 130$.I'm not sure if there's a warranty but I didn't see a phone number on the website.ill check further into it when I get home.

Weiand 77-174FSB-1 174 Pro-Street Supercharger Kit:Amazon:Automotive
I haven't made any purchases there over $200.However, if it will save you money then give it a go if you think it looks ok.
You can ask them about warranty, but I bet that they let Weiand take care of them.
You also may be able to get Jeg's or Summit to price match if that makes you more comfortable.
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:41 PM   #131
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Price match.....good idea.I know on jegs online u can price match using the url. Thanx
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:46 PM   #132
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so i added the s/c and carb to my cart at jegs.with the price matching i can now affordhttp://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3844-MTX-L-Complete/dp/B004MDT8MW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1326751513&sr=1-1 my wideband a/f gauge.with price matching that also i save like 10$ still.lol......sweeeet! genious. now a couple more weeks till i can pay.

---------- Post added at 04:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:24 PM ----------

the only thing on the jegs price match is that it does it really fast.i dont know how it verifies the legitimacy of then match.i tried a bogus match just to see and it still changed the price.i guess when i actually order it i will find out
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:04 PM   #133
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so i added the s/c and carb to my cart at jegs.with the price matching i can now afford Innovate Motorsports my wideband a/f gauge.with price matching that also i save like 10$ still.lol......sweeeet! genious. now a couple more weeks till i can pay.
That's the same one I've been eyeballing.

You may want to read the reviews and do a Google search for issues though.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:14 PM   #134
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ok trojan.i am here again for your advice and opinion.i am torn right now with what feels as bad as a life death choice :.(anyways my tax return was smaller than it been the last few years and my hours are a little slow.so first off my decision needs to be made kinda fast because i am terrible at saving money.basically i planned on spending 3200-3300 for everything i need with price matching.now my budget is only 2400. i have been debating on waiting on the s/c and going with the afr 185 and victor jr intake.with this route i can even pick up the 10 series flows i have been dying for,and maybe even a couple more goodies.with this route my (unknow) bottom end should be safer and it should be more easily/safer tunable.my btm will still work but i just wont need the ****** feature.and im not sure if i can still use the fuel pump,but probably.the only thing extra i will have is the autozone boost gauge. so option 2 is still keep the game plan and somehow try to come up with the extra to get atleast the supercharger and still be short the WB gauge, carb, and v6 belt tensioner.so i know the HP gain should be more with the s/c .but the question i guess would be is how much gain would i see with afr heads over gt40, and victor jr intake over offenhauser 360.is it worth it to play it safe,even after all the studying and planning that i have put into it. help! please. i want to make the RIGHT decision. thanx!
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:48 PM   #135
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ok trojan.i am here again for your advice and opinion.i am torn right now with what feels as bad as a life death choice :.(anyways my tax return was smaller than it been the last few years and my hours are a little slow.so first off my decision needs to be made kinda fast because i am terrible at saving money.basically i planned on spending 3200-3300 for everything i need with price matching.now my budget is only 2400. i have been debating on waiting on the s/c and going with the afr 185 and victor jr intake.with this route i can even pick up the 10 series flows i have been dying for,and maybe even a couple more goodies.with this route my (unknow) bottom end should be safer and it should be more easily/safer tunable.my btm will still work but i just wont need the ****** feature.and im not sure if i can still use the fuel pump,but probably.the only thing extra i will have is the autozone boost gauge. so option 2 is still keep the game plan and somehow try to come up with the extra to get atleast the supercharger and still be short the WB gauge, carb, and v6 belt tensioner.so i know the HP gain should be more with the s/c .but the question i guess would be is how much gain would i see with afr heads over gt40, and victor jr intake over offenhauser 360.is it worth it to play it safe,even after all the studying and planning that i have put into it. help! please. i want to make the RIGHT decision. thanx!
I'm not 100% sure exactly how much gain you will see over the GT40 heads, but I did see an article in MM&FF I think, where they picked up 100 HP by just replacing the factory E7 heads with a set of AFR 165's. I'd hazard a guess of between 25-50 HP maybe from the GT40's to the AFR 185's.


The intake swap I would guess at 10-20 HP difference.
You are aware that the Victor intake is made for higher RPM flow right?
It will work good with the SC though. I'd go ahead and get everything in place and do the SC last. Once the AFR's are in place you can sell the GT40's to recoup some cash.


I'm trying to get most of my supporting mods bought and installed before I worry about installing my SC. I want to make sure everything supports the SC before I put it on there. I did buy the SC "out of order" but that was because I had the cash and the SC deal came along at the right time. I got a $4K+ SC kit for about half price, which kept me grinning from ear to ear for about a week afterwards.
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:17 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

I'm not 100% sure exactly how much gain you will see over the GT40 heads, but I did see an article in MM&FF I think, where they picked up 100 HP by just replacing the factory E7 heads with a set of AFR 165's. I'd hazard a guess of between 25-50 HP maybe from the GT40's to the AFR 185's.

The intake swap I would guess at 10-20 HP difference.
You are aware that the Victor intake is made for higher RPM flow right?
It will work good with the SC though. I'd go ahead and get everything in place and do the SC last. Once the AFR's are in place you can sell the GT40's to recoup some cash.

I'm trying to get most of my supporting mods bought and installed before I worry about installing my SC. I want to make sure everything supports the SC before I put it on there. I did buy the SC "out of order" but that was because I had the cash and the SC deal came along at the right time. I got a $4K+ SC kit for about half price, which kept me grinning from ear to ear for about a week afterwards.
Yes I read that article.they used a stock cam with 1.7 roller rockers and a demon Jr carb and made around 400 hp.I do have an advantage having a b303 cam.my buddy has a good used set of 1.7 s I would try.I will have to check PTV clearance though.will I also have to buy pushrods if I went that route?
If I go this route I will start a new thread.and bookmark this one for the future.
Thanx TH
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:01 PM   #137
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Re: what it takes...

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Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
Yes I read that article.they used a stock cam with 1.7 roller rockers and a demon Jr carb and made around 400 hp.I do have an advantage having a b303 cam.my buddy has a good used set of 1.7 s I would try.I will have to check PTV clearance though.will I also have to buy pushrods if I went that route?
If I go this route I will start a new thread.and bookmark this one for the future.
Thanx TH
I don't think you will need new pushrods, but it never hurts to check JIC.
I also have to wonder just how much good you might actually get out of installing the 1,7's over the 1.6's sine you already have changed out the stock cam.
Probably not worth the expense or effort.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:07 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

I don't think you will need new pushrods, but it never hurts to check JIC.
I also have to wonder just how much good you might actually get out of installing the 1,7's over the 1.6's sine you already have changed out the stock cam.
Probably not worth the expense or effort.
Your probably right.good.could have scored them cheap,that's all.
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:03 PM   #139
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Re: what it takes...

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Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
Your probably right.good.could have scored them cheap,that's all.
Well, a JIC purchase isn't all bad and you might be able to sell them for a profit?
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:14 PM   #140
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Well, a JIC purchase isn't all bad and you might be able to sell them for a profit?
Well,he is my good buddy and would only give them to me cheap.so I don't want to profit off them(1.7)s.

---------- Post added at 07:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:09 PM ----------

The pushrods would have to buy new.i will just check mine out and make sure there straight etc.

---------- Post added at 07:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------

What u think about my Offenhauser 360.I think a victor Jr may better suit that intake.but mine may still be fine.I just want the best on on top of the arts.
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