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Old 08-04-2012, 08:50 PM   #1471
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Well that's a dam good reason then lol..
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:13 PM   #1472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66

Oo Oo I know this one!..cuz he's got a cut in the sidewall he's worried about..

I love the staggered look!..
ernnhhh. wromg answer, . lol

close though. the hole is perfectly centered in the tread. ,the original plan was to just try patching it. but i have done lots of research that scared me a little. when i had first mentioned this i believe trojan said the same thing.

i have read that plugs actually work better. they said that once you do a burnout the plug will melt itself in there and become one with the tire. the only problem is, that its more like a small slit instead of a hole.

so my plan is to plug it the best i can and still tube it. the question would be: should i plug the tire first (if i can) without the tube? then do a few burn out and dismount the tire and still tube it? the reason i am kinda wanting to do it this way, is because im not sure if the plug will interfere with the tube. And if I did it this way I could trim off excess inside.

oh and one other thing off topic. somehow my keyboard on my ipad split in half. anyone know how to do and undo this? this is the first time it ever happened and i have had this thing a long time.
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:16 PM   #1473
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:18 PM   #1474
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ahh hah. nevermind the keyboard thing. you have to long click the "keyboard away" button.

but still feel free for tire advice. cause i think im gonna order the tubes tonight or tomorow.
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:35 PM   #1475
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Uhhh thats what I ment...by sidewall.....I ment perfectly centered in the tread!...duhh
I know what im talkin aboot...ima professional!..
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:37 PM   #1476
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Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66
Uhhh thats what I ment...by sidewall.....I ment perfectly centered in the tread!...duhh
I know what im talkin aboot...ima professional!..
Of course you knew. Duhh.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:03 PM   #1477
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Lmao!!!
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:29 PM   #1478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66

Oh a wise guy eh?...lol
Yeah we had good hopes of having it in and running by now, but his dad passed away last week and his wife just had twins. He's had his hands full. So it's hard for us to find the time for it
But we both have the motivation to get it done so it won't be long at all
It just better not be faster then my stang OR ELSE!..
Crap! What a week! Sorry to hear that

---------- Post added at 11:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:06 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
ahh hah. nevermind the keyboard thing. you have to long click the "keyboard away" button.

but still feel free for tire advice. cause i think im gonna order the tubes tonight or tomorow.
You can also put a thumb on each little keyboard and push the two little keyboards together.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:37 PM   #1479
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azure,
very int, thatworks but if i bring it closer it wont stay. it just snaps back together or open.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:42 PM   #1480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
azure,
very int, thatworks but if i bring it closer it wont stay. it just snaps back together or open.
...testing progress...

---------- Post added at 11:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:38 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
azure,
very int, thatworks but if i bring it closer it wont stay. it just snaps back together or open.
I just posted a vid on YouTube. I'll get a link as soon as its available.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:43 PM   #1481
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Re: what it takes...

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Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
ernnhhh. wromg answer, . lol

close though. the hole is perfectly centered in the tread. ,the original plan was to just try patching it. but i have done lots of research that scared me a little. when i had first mentioned this i believe trojan said the same thing.

i have read that plugs actually work better. they said that once you do a burnout the plug will melt itself in there and become one with the tire. the only problem is, that its more like a small slit instead of a hole.

so my plan is to plug it the best i can and still tube it. the question would be: should i plug the tire first (if i can) without the tube? then do a few burn out and dismount the tire and still tube it? the reason i am kinda wanting to do it this way, is because im not sure if the plug will interfere with the tube. And if I did it this way I could trim off excess inside.
A tube will make the slick safer to use I'm sure.
The only problem with a plug is that the burnout may just pull it out of there?
Maybe plug it before you put the slick on the rim, making sure you get the hole really clean and use some patch cement or uncured rubber compound (???) to fill the hole and melt the plug into the tire. Then when that has cured carefully cut off the portion of the plug inside the tire and "vulcanize" not glue, a large patch over it for extra strength. Then install the tube and tire on the rim. I'd drive it for long enough for the slick to heat up good a time or two and let the plug get smashed in there as good as possible, before trying a burnout. Then once I was done with that I'd try a few burnouts at home (or wherever you can get away with it) to ensure it is going to hold before going to the track.


Talk to your tire repair shop expert for confirmation or other possibly better ideas.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:55 PM   #1482
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K, here it is...



---------- Post added at 11:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
azure,
very int, thatworks but if i bring it closer it wont stay. it just snaps back together or open.
Oh, now I'm getting it :duh: You want to adjust the position, make it closer, etc. Hmmm, not sure we can do that.
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:24 PM   #1483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

A tube will make the slick safer to use I'm sure.
The only problem with a plug is that the burnout may just pull it out of there?
Maybe plug it before you put the slick on the rim, making sure you get the hole really clean and use some patch cement or uncured rubber compound (???) to fill the hole and melt the plug into the tire. Then when that has cured carefully cut off the portion of the plug inside the tire and "vulcanize" not glue, a large patch over it for extra strength. Then install the tube and tire on the rim. I'd drive it for long enough for the slick to heat up good a time or two and let the plug get smashed in there as good as possible, before trying a burnout. Then once I was done with that I'd try a few burnouts at home (or wherever you can get away with it) to ensure it is going to hold before going to the track.

Talk to your tire repair shop expert for confirmation or other possibly better ideas.
im not sure how well i explained it. but waht your suggesting is pretty much spot on to what i was getting at. good:

i read lots of threads all over the net. and of course there are the guys that say dont repair a slick. and there was lots of people that say plug is the way to go. i found people that say they have plugs in all corners. and what you say about thinking it would pull it out during the burnout was exactly what i was thinking to. thats why i originally was thinking patch. but it seems to be, most people say they just slap it in and once the burnout was done, it melted in so good they couldnt even find it again. so i think we are exactly on the same page and even paragraph.

---------- Post added at 11:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:17 PM ----------

i think im gonnamorder them tomorow. when i get a chance ill post a link to the tubes i was thinking. and maybe you can tell me what you think.

ive never ran a tube before. anything else i need to be aware of? i read something about the valve stems but i dont remember if it needs to be anything special?

oh yeah. even after i purchase the tube i will be only 220$ in total. that is just a hair more than the price of one slick. and they have never even been mounted.

---------- Post added at 11:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure
K, here it is...



---------- Post added at 11:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 PM ----------



Oh, now I'm getting it :duh: You want to adjust the position, make it closer, etc. Hmmm, not sure we can do that.
cool. thanx for the link. i think it would be cool if you leave the split section the size that you want. but they are just a little small for my liking. it would probably fix my M as a space bar problem.
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:40 PM   #1484
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Re: what it takes...

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Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
im not sure how well i explained it. but waht your suggesting is pretty much spot on to what i was getting at. good:

i read lots of threads all over the net. and of course there are the guys that say dont repair a slick. and there was lots of people that say plug is the way to go. i found people that say they have plugs in all corners. and what you say about thinking it would pull it out during the burnout was exactly what i was thinking to. thats why i originally was thinking patch. but it seems to be, most people say they just slap it in and once the burnout was done, it melted in so good they couldnt even find it again. so i think we are exactly on the same page and even paragraph.

---------- Post added at 11:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:17 PM ----------

i think im gonnamorder them tomorow. when i get a chance ill post a link to the tubes i was thinking. and maybe you can tell me what you think.

ive never ran a tube before. anything else i need to be aware of? i read something about the valve stems but i dont remember if it needs to be anything special?

oh yeah. even after i purchase the tube i will be only 220$ in total. that is just a hair more than the price of one slick. and they have never even been mounted.
Yes, I think we are on the same page too. Sometimes I just have to write out stuff to be sure I have it right.

From what I remember the tubes need to be made for use with slicks and are "natural" rubber. The stem should clamp to the wheel. Here's a link to some info on them at AM. MT Drag Race Tubes
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:47 PM   #1485
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Question..if on the hole shot you spin the rim in the tire what's gunna happen with the tube?..
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:04 AM   #1486
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Well I would screw my slicks when I had that problem.. But idk with a tube.
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:26 AM   #1487
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im a little curious to. im sure there is a trick because manymslicks actually call formrunning tubes.

---------- Post added at 12:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:11 AM ----------

these are the ones i was thinkimg.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOO-288088-15/

---------- Post added at 12:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 AM ----------

actually i just noticed the link to AM. those are cheaper. imwill look into the. i may wait till monday bacause i want to speak with someone when i purchase. i like talking to a salesman when buying stuff that i dont know very well.

maybe i should talk to dann or shane?

---------- Post added at 12:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:17 AM ----------

actually i forgot. i cant order over the phone and use the discount. i may just ask them on a thread in there section. i need an updated code anyways. the last time i used a code when i bought my heads in jan/feb.
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:29 AM   #1488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66
Question..if on the hole shot you spin the rim in the tire what's gunna happen with the tube?..
Does that kinda thing really happen?
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:36 AM   #1489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure

Does that kinda thing really happen?
yes it does. most people run screws all the way around the edge of the rim. and also most people will actually mark the rim and tire so they know if it moved or not. it is even more likely if the rim size is a little different than tire size etc..

---------- Post added at 12:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:36 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang

yes it does. most people run screws all the way around the edge of the rim. and also most people will actually mark the rim and tire so they know if it moved or not. it is even more likely if the rim size is a little different than tire size etc..
im not sure i will have that problem. but it is even more common is really high hp cars.
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:48 AM   #1490
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Re: what it takes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66 View Post
Question..if on the hole shot you spin the rim in the tire what's gunna happen with the tube?..
If your slick isn't screwed to the rim, you will shred the tube.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90GTNovi2000 View Post
Well I would screw my slicks when I had that problem.. But idk with a tube.
Same thing with a tube, you just make sure the screws do not protrude completely through the bead.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
im a little curious to. im sure there is a trick because manymslicks actually call formrunning tubes.

---------- Post added at 12:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:11 AM ----------

these are the ones i was thinkimg.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOO-288088-15/

---------- Post added at 12:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 AM ----------

actually i just noticed the link to AM. those are cheaper. imwill look into the. i may wait till monday bacause i want to speak with someone when i purchase. i like talking to a salesman when buying stuff that i dont know very well.

maybe i should talk to dann or shane?

---------- Post added at 12:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:17 AM ----------

actually i forgot. i cant order over the phone and use the discount. i may just ask them on a thread in there section. i need an updated code anyways. the last time i used a code when i bought my heads in jan/feb.

Go ahead and screw the slicks to the rim. Get a few extra screws so you can use 1-2 or more if needed to "pre-screw the drilled holes in the rim. A little tire patch cement on the screw will help them seal up to the bead. It's a good idea to drill the rim, then de-burr the holes before you install the tire/tube. Then just wrap some tape around the drill bit to mark the depth needed and drill the bead being careful to not punch through into the tube.


Note: If you have an indexing tool at work and the time to do so you can cut out a 14" or 15" circle of aluminum or light steel (whichever works best) and mark it 360° around the circumference. Then using the marked circle you divide the 360° by however many screws you want to use and that will tell you at how many degrees to mark for each screw when you lay the circle inside the wheel rim. This will keep the screws evenly spaced and make the wheel/tire easier to balance. When using stick on balancing weights, be sure to clean the area really good and use some good grade duct tape over the weights. It helps keep them in place longer. Phew, I'm tired now.


I would ask them for their drag racing specialist in the thread. Others without the knowledge are just going to parrot information and sometimes it gets twisted up that way and can be wrong.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:22 AM   #1491
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i saw that indexing tool you posted previously. i think what i will do is use a piece of cardboard. then make a template using a tremal and a bisecting line technique.

so i will do some searching on the drilling technique. i am aware of how to find proper depth ect. but i am a little confused . it may just be that im tired or what not. but is there a link in the stickies? i can look through, but didnt remember being one,. so the screw will go all the way the rim + about half the sidewall thickness?
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:39 AM   #1492
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Re: what it takes...

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i saw that indexing tool you posted previously. i think what i will do is use a piece of cardboard. then make a template using a tremal and a bisecting line technique.

so i will do some searching on the drilling technique. i am aware of how to find proper depth ect. but i am a little confused . it may just be that im tired or what not. but is there a link in the stickies? i can look through, but didnt remember being one,. so the screw will go all the way the rim + about half the sidewall thickness?
Yeah, cardboard would be easier. see how I always seem to make things harder than they need to be? I guess I'm just sucker for a challenge.


I'm going to have to look up the "tremal" never heard of one before.


Yes, the screw goes through the rim and into the tire bead. Essentially making the tire primitively "bead locked". You choose your drill bit size to match the diameter of the screw shaft, not the threads. That way the threads bite fully into the metal and tire bead providing the best grip. You try your best to "not" go completely through the bead though. Seems like we used 1/2" or maybe 5/8" long screws on slicks, not 100% sure about that though. Maybe I can find some laying around in my shop and measure them. You need enough length to go through the rim thickness and around 3/4's of the way through the tire bead.


There may be a link in the stickies or possibly in this thread somewhere's, but it's easy to do, I'm just not very good at explaining sometimes. Sorry.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:53 AM   #1493
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Yeah, cardboard would be easier. see how I always seem to make things harder than they need to be? I guess I'm just sucker for a challenge.

I'm going to have to look up the "tremal" never heard of one before.

Yes, the screw goes through the rim and into the tire bead. Essentially making the tire primitively "bead locked". You choose your drill bit size to match the diameter of the screw shaft, not the threads. That way the threads bite fully into the metal and tire bead providing the best grip. You try your best to "not" go completely through the bead though. Seems like we used 1/2" or maybe 5/8" long screws on slicks, not 100% sure about that though. Maybe I can find some laying around in my shop and measure them. You need enough length to go through the rim thickness and around 3/4's of the way through the tire bead.

There may be a link in the stickies or possibly in this thread somewhere's, but it's easy to do, I'm just not very good at explaining sometimes. Sorry.
you do a great job explaining thing. better than i do most of the time.

a tramel is a tool. its kinda like a set of dividers. at the mill i worked at. i built, installed p, and aligned rolling mills. somi did lots of critical layouts. but anyways

what you would do is draw the first center line.

then center punch the very center

then use the tramel in the center mark and bisect the center line north and south

then center punch those 2 new bisects. then open the tramel up. and off of those new marks swipe east and west perpindicular to the original center. do this from both marks.

now you would have a perfect center mark perpindicular to the original.

then off those mark bisect the in between areas etc etc.

note. when doing this you set the tramel to the radius that you want for you pattern if you were doing square bolt patterns. but in a circular configuration, after all the centers are marked you would set the tramwl to the radius and just draw a circle through the lines.
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:26 AM   #1494
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Re: what it takes...

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you do a great job explaining thing. better than i do most of the time.

a tramel is a tool. its kinda like a set of dividers. at the mill i worked at. i built, installed p, and aligned rolling mills. somi did lots of critical layouts. but anyways

what you would do is draw the first center line.

then center punch the very center

then use the tramel in the center mark and bisect the center line north and south

then center punch those 2 new bisects. then open the tramel up. and off of those new marks swipe east and west perpindicular to the original center. do this from both marks.

now you would have a perfect center mark perpindicular to the original.

then off those mark bisect the in between areas etc etc.

note. when doing this you set the tramel to the radius that you want for you pattern if you were doing square bolt patterns. but in a circular configuration, after all the centers are marked you would set the tramwl to the radius and just draw a circle through the lines.
I see, now I know what it is. Had one at my old job, but never knew the name of it.
It was always, "Get me that circle tool".



I used to have access to an regular indexing tool that you could mount your circle on. Set the indicator point and turn a dial to move your circle 1 degree at a time and mark it. I miss not being able to use some of the tools we had and the sad thing is there is no one else working there now that even has the slightest idea how to use most of them.


Thanks for the explanation. I done learned something new today.

Good night my friend.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:15 AM   #1495
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

I see, now I know what it is. Had one at my old job, but never knew the name of it.
It was always, "Get me that circle tool".

I used to have access to an regular indexing tool that you could mount your circle on. Set the indicator point and turn a dial to move your circle 1 degree at a time and mark it. I miss not being able to use some of the tools we had and the sad thing is there is no one else working there now that even has the slightest idea how to use most of them.

Thanks for the explanation. I done learned something new today.

Good night my friend.
Lol, I've heard it called the circle tool also. I have my own but its just a cheapo from home depot. Haha. That rymed. (Corny).

Yes it is great to be able to use use company tools if needed!

Good night man.
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:14 AM   #1496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang

you do a great job explaining thing. better than i do most of the time.

a tramel is a tool. its kinda like a set of dividers. at the mill i worked at. i built, installed p, and aligned rolling mills. somi did lots of critical layouts. but anyways

what you would do is draw the first center line.

then center punch the very center

then use the tramel in the center mark and bisect the center line north and south

then center punch those 2 new bisects. then open the tramel up. and off of those new marks swipe east and west perpindicular to the original center. do this from both marks.

now you would have a perfect center mark perpindicular to the original.

then off those mark bisect the in between areas etc etc.

note. when doing this you set the tramel to the radius that you want for you pattern if you were doing square bolt patterns. but in a circular configuration, after all the centers are marked you would set the tramwl to the radius and just draw a circle through the lines.
Funny thing is last night I read this drunk and had no idea wtf you were talkin about!..just read it now and completely understand what you were saying..lol
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:17 PM   #1497
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Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66

Funny thing is last night I read this drunk and had no idea wtf you were talkin about!..just read it now and completely understand what you were saying..lol
haha. it is a little tricky.
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:21 PM   #1498
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Hey mang if you know anyone goin to us 41 this sunday tell them to watch for a black 69 camaro with stripes and exhaust out the fenders behind the front tires!..guy goes by the nickname of lucky and he's runnin 6.90's @ 204mph!.
He leaves with a 200 shot and carries the front tires to around the 1/8th and hits 2nd stage 300shot in 2nd!!...ya know similar times to what I run on the way to work
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:41 PM   #1499
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Hey mang if you know anyone goin to us 41 this sunday tell them to watch for a black 69 camaro with stripes and exhaust out the fenders behind the front tires!..guy goes by the nickname of lucky and he's runnin 6.90's @ 204mph!.
He leaves with a 200 shot and carries the front tires to around the 1/8th and hits 2nd stage 300shot in 2nd!!...ya know similar times to what I run on the way to work
What going on Sunday? A shootout or street car chaos? I habent even made it there this year. But that sounds like a beast!!!!!
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:54 PM   #1500
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What going on Sunday? A shootout or street car chaos? I habent even made it there this year. But that sounds like a beast!!!!!
It's just a test and tune. I wish I could make it. the guy also has a buick regal (not sure what year) that is his ”just for kicks” ride he run 9's in!...
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:59 PM   #1501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66

It's just a test and tune. I wish I could make it. the guy also has a buick regal (not sure what year) that is his ”just for kicks” ride he run 9's in!...
Nice:drool: that would be fun to watch. That's about the same as the door cars except they run 1/8th mile.
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Old 08-08-2012, 04:48 PM   #1502
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Join Date: Apr 2011
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my new panel meter came in today. yay! and i touch the wires to the battery to verify that it works, and it does. my stang is still on jack standsmfrom the loop. as much as i have been working it has been hard to get motivated. but now i have a reason. so tomorow i am gonna get her on the ground, and hook up this meter. as long as the wheather is ok and its not to late when im done, im going for a cruise. it feels like it has been forever since i took it for a spin.

also i couldnt swing the tubes yet. my wife dropped her iphone in water so i had to replace that for her. but not to big of a deal. it will still be a little bit before i can make it to the track. somwhat im thinking on fixxing the small slit:

everything i read on the internet is either throw them away (sissys). or use a plug. i am kinda scare to plug it because i am worried they may interfere with the tube. but im not sure. so i think what im gonna do is
1. fill the slit with some good rubber cememt
2. patch the inside area just for *****s
3. then tube it.

then im also gonna drill the bead so i can run screws into the tire. im probably not gonna do this right away until i can at least do some burnouts on them and get her up tp a high speed. this will be to make sure they are gonna work good before i drill the rims.

P.S. i may start a new thread with a short write up on the install and purpose of the panel meter. i dont recall every seeing anyone else do this. so i think it would be cool if it were searchable to other. and then i will continue back on to this thread.
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:56 PM   #1503
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I think doing that should do fine on the slick..I'd run it!.
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:01 PM   #1504
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even after tubing it, i will only be less that 220$ in. and the slicks are brand new besides the little slit. if i were to order those oline that would be the price for one shipped. so i still feel i did alright.
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:05 PM   #1505
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Region: Indiana
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I think I'd run it too. don't they make a plug/patch combo kinda thing? Ya know, like a free standing dildo sorta..? Absolutely no experience there with that!
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