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Old 01-28-2012, 08:07 PM   #141
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Re: what it takes...

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Well,he is my good buddy and would only give them to me cheap.so I don't want to profit off them(1.7)s.

---------- Post added at 07:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:09 PM ----------

The pushrods would have to buy new.i will just check mine out and make sure there straight etc.

---------- Post added at 07:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------

What u think about my Offenhauser 360.I think a victor Jr may better suit that intake.but mine may still be fine.I just want the best on on top of the arts.
I ran an Offenhauser Port-O-Sonic on my 429 BBF and I really liked it.


Looking up the 360 on Summit Racing here is what the description says:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Summit Racing
Offenhauser's 360 Degree Equa-Flow Single Quad High-Rise intake manifolds feature a 360 degree design for full-capacity operation. This combination of unrestricted fuel-air flow and a divided plenum means no flat spots throughout the entire rpm range. What does all this mean? The equal fuel flow to each cylinder increases horsepower and torque, while evening-out individual cylinder temperatures. Power bands start as low as 1,800 rpm with a small carb and climb all the way to 8,800 rpm with a big one.

It must be a pretty good intake to be able to support an operating range that wide. A lot of Ford aftermarket manifolds used to have some inherent fuel/air mix distribution problems, which is why I went with the Port-O-Sonic on my big block.
All in all, I think I would keep the Offy.

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Old 01-28-2012, 08:18 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

I ran an Offenhauser Port-O-Sonic on my 429 BBF and I really liked it.

Looking up the 360 on Summit Racing here is what the description says:



It must be a pretty good intake to be able to support an operating range that wide. A lot of Ford aftermarket manifolds used to have some inherent fuel/air mix distribution problems, which is why I went with the Port-O-Sonic on my big block.
All in all, I think I would keep the Offy.
Money wise I want to keep it.doing Google searches a lot of people say they are outdated old technology.but its funny cause most of these guys don't even have one and its near impossible to find flow comparisons.I think its similiar to what people say about our letter cams.just cause there old they are no good.blah blah blah.lol
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:02 PM   #143
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Re: what it takes...

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Money wise I want to keep it.doing Google searches a lot of people say they are outdated old technology.but its funny cause most of these guys don't even have one and its near impossible to find flow comparisons.I think its similiar to what people say about our letter cams.just cause there old they are no good.blah blah blah.lol
Yeah, they never stop to think that there may not be a "new" Offy intake, because the older ones were designed so well.
AND a lot of that is just parroting by people who just don't know any better.


The alphabet cams work fine for me.
When I researched CamQuest for the best cam for my engine with the SC, the specs of one of the cams it chose are very close to my X303 cam specs. The others were on either side of my X303 specs, bigger and smaller.
Therefore, I am going to leave it in there and use it.
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:36 PM   #144
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The intake is a toss up.the afr web site recommends the edelbrock but I think the offy is close.I started making a new parts list and I can afford it.I'm also thinking a street avenger 670 carb to replace my 550.so here is my long list thanx to a couple ebay listings and summit values.lrs has the heads the cheapest,and that's without the discount.

Afr heads
Performer rpm intake(maybe)
Holley street avenger carb 670 cfm
Umi up/lower control arms
2 10 series flows
Gaskets + New headers bolts
New v-covers

Do I need new head bolts? I know some don't require them.I know ill need 1/2-7/16 bushings.those heads are drilled 1/2.

I can get this all way cheaper than i was gonna spend.I just hope I get a noticable performance increase.
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:41 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
The intake is a toss up.the afr web site recommends the edelbrock but I think the offy is close.I started making a new parts list and I can afford it.I'm also thinking a street avenger 670 carb to replace my 550.so here is my long list thanx to a couple ebay listings and summit values.lrs has the heads the cheapest,and that's without the discount.

Afr heads
Performer rpm intake(maybe)
Holley street avenger carb 670 cfm
Umi up/lower control arms
2 10 series flows
Gaskets + New headers bolts

Do I need new head bolts? I know some don't require them.I know ill need 1/2-7/16 bushings.those heads are drilled 1/2.

I can get this all way cheaper than i was gonna spend.I just hope I get a noticable performance increase.
I would go ahead and get new bolts, they are fairly inexpensive.
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:43 PM   #146
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I would go ahead and get new bolts, they are fairly inexpensive.
That's what I thought.the apr are expensive though.like 140$.I may have to just get regular ones.
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Old 01-29-2012, 03:06 PM   #147
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Re: what it takes...

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The intake is a toss up.the afr web site recommends the edelbrock but I think the offy is close.I started making a new parts list and I can afford it.I'm also thinking a street avenger 670 carb to replace my 550.so here is my long list thanx to a couple ebay listings and summit values.lrs has the heads the cheapest,and that's without the discount.

Afr heads
Performer rpm intake(maybe)
Holley street avenger carb 670 cfm
Umi up/lower control arms
2 10 series flows
Gaskets + New headers bolts
New v-covers

Do I need new head bolts? I know some don't require them.I know ill need 1/2-7/16 bushings.those heads are drilled 1/2.

I can get this all way cheaper than i was gonna spend.I just hope I get a noticable performance increase.
You will definitely get a noticeable increase.
In my prior carburetor experience I found that SBF's seem to run a bit better if they are over carbureted. I would consider a 750 CFM Holley and tune it to work on your combo.
At one time I ran an 800 CFM Quadrajet off of a Cadillac on a mildly built 302 that had 10:1 compression, worked over C9OE 351W heads and a Crane Fireball cam. The only issue I ever had with it was that it would pop like a firecracker going off whenever I cracked open the throttle quickly. No hesitation or stumbling, just pop and go.


Have you considered seeing if you can just drill and tap the block for 1/2" bolts or studs?
I've never done that yet, but I'm sure going to look into it before I install my SC.
Fords are kind of weak in the head clamping department and the larger fasteners will add to the strength. I would also prefer studs over bolts as they do a better job of holding down the heads if it is possible to use them.


The operating range of your Offy intake is nothing short of amazing.
I would just stick with it, were I you, but it is your choice of course.
Do some port matching and smooth up any casting flash in the runners and let it flow.
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Old 01-29-2012, 03:45 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

You will definitely get a noticeable increase.
In my prior carburetor experience I found that SBF's seem to run a bit better if they are over carbureted. I would consider a 750 CFM Holley and tune it to work on your combo.
At one time I ran an 800 CFM Quadrajet off of a Cadillac on a mildly built 302 that had 10:1 compression, worked over C9OE 351W heads and a Crane Fireball cam. The only issue I ever had with it was that it would pop like a firecracker going off whenever I cracked open the throttle quickly. No hesitation or stumbling, just pop and go.

Have you considered seeing if you can just drill and tap the block for 1/2" bolts or studs?
I've never done that yet, but I'm sure going to look into it before I install my SC.
Fords are kind of weak in the head clamping department and the larger fasteners will add to the strength. I would also prefer studs over bolts as they do a better job of holding down the heads if it is possible to use them.

The operating range of your Offy intake is nothing short of amazing.
I would just stick with it, were I you, but it is your choice of course.
Do some port matching and smooth up any casting flash in the runners and let it flow.
I never looked into just drilling out the block.it seems with only being a 1/6 bigger that the old threads may not be drilled out all the way causing not to have full threads into new threads.but I could be wrong.I will look at a drill chart and see the difference.that would save about 40$ on bushings and have better strength.
I will probably keep the offy.maybe ill clean it up real nice and port match as u mentioned.
I am gonna have to look into the heads more because I think I read something that the pistons need valve reliefs on the 185 s.I also read that the trick flow 170s flow more because of the better flow path.I just want the best heads I can get for under 1500.
Thanx for the advice.u always help make my decisions easy!

---------- Post added at 03:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:30 PM ----------

here is a shadetree procedure.its about what i was thinking would be involved.in this case i would just use 351 bolts.the guy in the procedure says to use a reg course thread tap.just to verify that 351 bolts are 1/ 2 13 threads?

http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/F...ML/001160.html
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:06 PM   #149
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Re: what it takes...

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I never looked into just drilling out the block.it seems with only being a 1/6 bigger that the old threads may not be drilled out all the way causing not to have full threads into new threads.but I could be wrong.I will look at a drill chart and see the difference.that would save about 40$ on bushings and have better strength.
I will probably keep the offy.maybe ill clean it up real nice and port match as u mentioned.
I am gonna have to look into the heads more because I think I read something that the pistons need valve reliefs on the 185 s.I also read that the trick flow 170s flow more because of the better flow path.I just want the best heads I can get for under 1500.
Thanx for the advice.u always help make my decisions easy!

---------- Post added at 03:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:30 PM ----------

here is a shadetree procedure.its about what i was thinking would be involved.in this case i would just use 351 bolts.the guy in the procedure says to use a reg course thread tap.just to verify that 351 bolts are 1/ 2 13 threads?

1/2" 289/302 Head Bolt Conversion - Mustangsandmore Forum Archive
The 1/2" x 13 thread is a standard size and I believe the 1/2" head bolts use that thread.
If it works out ok to drill out the 7/16" threads in the block and re-tap them for 1/2" x 13, don't forget to chamfer the holes. This will prevent the bolts/studs from pulling up any deck material on the edges of the hole and causing interference with the gasket and sealing.


If drilling and tapping to 1/2" does "not" leave enough threads, you can get threaded inserts that will screw and lock into the block to get you to the thread size you need. They can be purchased at McMaster-Carr and other fastener suppliers, but you need to insure that enough material around the hole is available to hold them.


As I said before I prefer using studs whenever I can. They get installed into the holes without the twisting and torque required for bolts. Then the twisting torque is concentrated at the top of the stud using a nut, washer and moly thread lubricant. This greatly reduces the strain on the threads in the block and stretches the fastener for better clamping/holding power. You won't lose as much torque value as you would to the twisting/friction of a bolt threading into the block and you will get the full length holding power of the stud in the block threads.

P.S. I used the link you provided to add to the Useful Mustang Info thread.
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:17 PM   #150
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

The 1/2" x 13 thread is a standard size and I believe the 1/2" head bolts use that thread.
If it works out ok to drill out the 7/16" threads in the block and re-tap them for 1/2" x 13, don't forget to chamfer the holes. This will prevent the bolts/studs from pulling up any deck material on the edges of the hole and causing interference with the gasket and sealing.

If drilling and tapping to 1/2" does "not" leave enough threads, you can get threaded inserts that will screw and lock into the block to get you to the thread size you need. They can be purchased at McMaster-Carr and other fastener suppliers, but you need to insure that enough material around the hole is available to hold them.

As I said before I prefer using studs whenever I can. They get installed into the holes without the twisting and torque required for bolts. Then the twisting torque is concentrated at the top of the stud using a nut, washer and moly thread lubricant. This greatly reduces the strain on the threads in the block and stretches the fastener for better clamping/holding power. You won't lose as much torque value as you would to the twisting/friction of a bolt threading into the block and you will get the full length holding power of the stud in the block threads.
ok good.i think i will try this and then i will let you know how it went.i will definitly chamfer the holes.i have found that it helps starting the tap also.tommorow i will contact afr and check on a couple things,mostly if i need valve reliefs.i dont want to change or modify my pistons.
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:54 PM   #151
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Re: what it takes...

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ok good.i think i will try this and then i will let you know how it went.i will definitly chamfer the holes.i have found that it helps starting the tap also.tommorow i will contact afr and check on a couple things,mostly if i need valve reliefs.i dont want to change or modify my pistons.
If you need to modify the pistons (even if you don't want to and JIC you change your mind), I believe there is a tool that will allow you to do so with the pistons still in the block. It uses the valve guides for a machining guide for the tool.


Here is the Tool - Isky Piston Notching Tool - Note: You probably need to size this according to you valve size.


Here is the tool guide - Isky Piston Notching Tool Guide - Note: You probably need to size this according to your valve stem size.


Here is an article on PV clearance - Ford Muscle PV Clearance


Here is an alternative, I.E. Cheaper way to do it - Another PV Clearance Technique
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:14 PM   #152
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very intersting.i know that a particular company cant 100 % verify my pvc without me actually checking to my setup but i hope i dont have to go the route of clearancing.if i do i like saving a buck and its good to know i can do it myself! i was always under assumption that it was a machine shop thing.thanx for the info!
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:02 PM   #153
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Re: what it takes...

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very intersting.i know that a particular company cant 100 % verify my pvc without me actually checking to my setup but i hope i dont have to go the route of clearancing.if i do i like saving a buck and its good to know i can do it myself! i was always under assumption that it was a machine shop thing.thanx for the info!
It's amazing what you can come up with if you are poor, broke and in bad enough need.
You'd be amazed and probably if you saw some of the things I have done over the years.
The amazing part is that most of them worked.
Such as:
I had a small shaft that needed a snap ring groove cut into it. I had no money to take it to a machine shop, so I looked around the shop and found an old electric motor, a spindle adapter with threads on it and a drill chuck from an old 1/2" drill. Those parts combined with a V-block and a fine toothed hacksaw blade and I managed to get the job done.
I tried just clamping my drill in a vise too, but the force needed to hold the drill steady distorted the plastic housing and caused the armature to rub on the stator.
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:33 PM   #154
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It's amazing what you can come up with if you are poor, broke and in bad enough need.
You'd be amazed and probably if you saw some of the things I have done over the years.
The amazing part is that most of them worked.
Such as:
I had a small shaft that needed a snap ring groove cut into it. I had no money to take it to a machine shop, so I looked around the shop and found an old electric motor, a spindle adapter with threads on it and a drill chuck from an old 1/2" drill. Those parts combined with a V-block and a fine toothed hacksaw blade and I managed to get the job done.
I tried just clamping my drill in a vise too, but the force needed to hold the drill steady distorted the plastic housing and caused the armature to rub on the stator.
haha.yes i have lots of homeade tools in my garage and work box. custom balljoint remover,2 bolts welded together for big allen wrench, etc. lol

i seem to keep reading that the afr 165 are better suited than the 185 for a stock 302 and the 185 s are better for strokers and higher cubes.have u checked out the heads EHP sells.they have similiar specs as the afrs?the only other head i can think would compare are the trick flow TW 170s.

---------- Post added at 06:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:22 PM ----------

also in your opinion should i still install my big fuel pump i purchased for the s/c.i am definitly gonna install the fuel pressure reg. and i did see a 750 holley(vacuum secondaries,electric choke) that was affordable.it has a duel feed, so i can still use my fancy duel feed line with the built in fuel pressure gauge.
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:13 PM   #155
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Re: what it takes...

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haha.yes i have lots of homeade tools in my garage and work box. custom balljoint remover,2 bolts welded together for big allen wrench, etc. lol

i seem to keep reading that the afr 165 are better suited than the 185 for a stock 302 and the 185 s are better for strokers and higher cubes.have u checked out the heads EHP sells.they have similiar specs as the afrs?the only other head i can think would compare are the trick flow TW 170s.

---------- Post added at 06:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:22 PM ----------

also in your opinion should i still install my big fuel pump i purchased for the s/c.i am definitly gonna install the fuel pressure reg. and i did see a 750 holley(vacuum secondaries,electric choke) that was affordable.it has a duel feed, so i can still use my fancy duel feed line with the built in fuel pressure gauge.
I have the "big" allen wrenches too!


Since you plan on supercharging I think the 185's would be a better option for you than the 165's.
I have not seen the EHP heads, but I will go take a look at them.
Ok I did. They are probably ok, but I don't think they are in the same class as the AFR heads. I don't know who makes them for EHP, but in the large picture they look a little "unfinished" to me, but maybe I'm biased.
The problem with the cheaper heads is usually fit, finish and durability. The AFR's state up front about their deck thickness and ability to hold up to forced induction.


On the fuel pump, I don't know why you couldn't go ahead and install it.
Unless it will bypass so much fuel that it will warm up the whole tank full.


Now understand on that Holley 750 that you will likely have to do a good bit of tuning.
I worked mine over changing jets, squirters, air bleeds and secondary springs until I found the correct combination.
It is not an easy task and it will take some time and plug reading to get correct, but your wide band should make it a lot easier than just going by plug readings alone.


Are you going to put it inside an "igloo" when supercharging?
If not you will need a carb set up for "blow through" operation.
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:24 PM   #156
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well i never purchased the wideband yet.i was gonna hold off until the s/c.i think with me going NA for now my s/c could be delayed for quite sometime.i think i am gonna just worry about the current setup then in the future build a 351 setup for the s/c.with that being said im not worried about the carb just yet but the heads i am.i am really partial to that holley s/c carb,but i dont want that just yet.i know it may seem like a waist, but it will be a while before i get to upgrade even more.
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:30 PM   #157
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well i never purchased the wideband yet.i was gonna hold off until the s/c.i think with me going NA for now my s/c could be delayed for quite sometime.i think i am gonna just worry about the current setup then in the future build a 351 setup for the s/c.with that being said im not worried about the carb just yet but the heads i am.i am really partial to that holley s/c carb,but i dont want that just yet.i know it may seem like a waist, but it will be a while before i get to upgrade even more.
If you can swing the funds, the wide band would be a big help in tuning your car even without the SC. It will be nice to see what your A/F ratio is really doing.
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:46 PM   #158
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i made that kind of confusing i think.the heads will be used now and later.the carb wont,its just for now.
so since the heads are keepers for current and future setups i should go 185?
since the carb is just for now maybe a little smaller for easier setup?
im sure i can modify the carb, but since the carb wont be used on the s/c is it necessary to go so big?

---------- Post added at 08:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:33 PM ----------

ok ill try to squeeze the WB in.

---------- Post added at 08:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:34 PM ----------

ok with your advice and searching parts all day here is my updated list.i already filed my taxes and i am expecting them friday.

umi lift bars 290 summit
fab v covers 80. ebay
heads 1460 lrs
flows130
carb 300 carb
header bolt 25summit
gaskets summit
holley air cleaner20summit
head studs 60
aem wide band 180 amazon

this list puts me about 100-150 over budget, but i think i can still squeek it.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:16 PM   #159
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i made that kind of confusing i think.the heads will be used now and later.the carb wont,its just for now.
so since the heads are keepers for current and future setups i should go 185?
since the carb is just for now maybe a little smaller for easier setup?
im sure i can modify the carb, but since the carb wont be used on the s/c is it necessary to go so big?

---------- Post added at 08:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:33 PM ----------

ok ill try to squeeze the WB in.
I would go with the 185's myself. I like the quality, the air flow and the fact that if you do go with the 351W later they will work just fine on there too.


No it's not necessary to go that big for a carb. As a matter of fact most people/places will definitely recommend smaller carbs than that for your engine. Usually 600-650 CFM. Your choice of a smaller carb will probably work best for you in day to day driving.


Ok, I was getting carried away just thinking max performance on the carb size. That's just been from my experience, which I tried out after reading about a famous racer who made the initial statement to that effect years ago. I ran the 800 CFM carb on my old 302 naturally aspirated, but like I said it took a lot of work to get it right. And I tend to go for overkill at times without thinking it out and back then fuel mileage wasn't the issue it is today. I gotta' watch that. Sorry.


Here's that article about the AFR 165's and making 400 HP.
They did it with a stock short block and cam, using 1.7 rockers, Tri-Y headers and a Weiand Stealth 4V intake along with the AFR 165's.
That Weiand Stealth would be another good choice if you opt to change out the Offy.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:29 PM   #160
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Yes that is a great article.the intake is no longer in the budget.after thinking about it the s/c I want comes with an intake,so it would be another part not used in the future.
I appreciate all the input.I think I know what I want now.I just told the wife there will be lots of ups traffic around here the next couple weeks.lol
Thanx again.
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Old 01-30-2012, 07:49 PM   #161
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So I pulled a head today.the pistons were in great shape.a little carbon on them that wipes right off.I was able to pull the numbers off the top.they are .30 over cheapies.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-273AP30
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:51 PM   #162
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Re: what it takes...

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So I pulled a head today.the pistons were in great shape.a little carbon on them that wipes right off.I was able to pull the numbers off the top.they are .30 over cheapies.

Sealed Power Z273AP30 - Sealed Power Cast Pistons - Summit Racing Equipment
That sux.
I wouldn't do any forced induction on those, but they should be ok for a N/A engine.
Did you look at the "Applications" on that page?
It says they are for a 65-68, 289.

OOPS! Didn't read down far enough, also says 77-86, 5.0.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:03 PM   #163
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Yeah,I getting ready to pull a lifter and make sure its roller.I pulled the block numbers a long time ago and I swear they said 88.they where hard to read,maybe I misread.

---------- Post added at 09:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:02 PM ----------

Ps,Lucky I went na.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:09 PM   #164
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Yeah,I getting ready to pull a lifter and make sure its roller.I pulled the block numbers a long time ago and I swear they said 88.they where hard to read,maybe I misread.

---------- Post added at 09:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:02 PM ----------

Ps,Lucky I went na.
The block may very well be an 88.
You never know what someone else has done.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:15 PM   #165
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I'm gonna pull the numbers I found in the lifter valley and see if that turns up anything.
It is a roller.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:25 PM   #166
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the only thing those tell me is xxx is roller block.i cant find what the 10 is and i assume the sb is small block.

the plus side of all this is at least after 3 years i finally know what i got and that the rebuild is pretty fresh.the bad thing is not knowing the quality of the build.i can definitly see he used cheap pistons .i was told that it has a new crank and was told 30 over on fresh rebuild.so some stuff does check out.all i know for sure is that motor cant wait to get its new heads.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:29 PM   #167
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Re: what it takes...

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Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
the only thing those tell me is xxx is roller block.i cant find what the 10 is and i assume the sb is small block.

the plus side of all this is at least after 3 years i finally know what i got and that the rebuild is pretty fresh.the bad thing is not knowing the quality of the build.i can definitly see he used cheap pistons .i was told that it has a new crank and was told 30 over on fresh rebuild.so some stuff does check out.all i know for sure is that motor cant wait to get its new heads.
Once you get the new heads on you can run a compression test to check the rings.
More than likely they are ok.
Those parts are used on probably thousands of stock rebuilds every year and for the most part they hold up ok.
Just don't rev it to the moon. I've had older 302's break the skirt off the pistons from over revving.

P.S. I was told my engine had a "steel" crank in it when I bought the car.
As I was to find out later, it does, but it is a "cast steel" crank which is only slightly tougher than the stock cast iron crank.
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Old 01-30-2012, 11:40 PM   #168
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U wanna know what's weird?i searched for pistons on summit using stock replacement filter option and these summit brand pistons cover more years than the ones I have.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-17302-30
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:29 AM   #169
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Re: what it takes...

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U wanna know what's weird?i searched for pistons on summit using stock replacement filter option and these summit brand pistons cover more years than the ones I have.

Summit Racing SUM-17302-30 - Summit Racing® Hypereutectic Pistons - Summit Racing Equipment
1963 - 2001 is a pretty good range no doubt.
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Old 02-01-2012, 04:39 PM   #170
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I want to cut my budget just a little.I was thinking of just getting lower Umi rear control arms instead of both.this should still help traction out good and they will work fine with stock uppers? Also I will probably atleast upgrade the upper bushings,what kind should I get?
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Old 02-01-2012, 06:49 PM   #171
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Re: what it takes...

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I want to cut my budget just a little.I was thinking of just getting lower Umi rear control arms instead of both.this should still help traction out good and they will work fine with stock uppers? Also I will probably atleast upgrade the upper bushings,what kind should I get?
I've been running the Lift Bars for years with stock uppers, it's worked ok for me.
If you want to free up the suspension a bit, get some urethane bushings for the uppers.
You can also box the bottom of the uppers with a welded in plate to increase their rigidity.
Just be sure to allow enough room on the bottom plate for the uppers to move without interference throughout their movement range.
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Old 02-01-2012, 06:56 PM   #172
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Perfect!i may do that.I plan on strengthening the torque boxes and making some sub frame connectors also ,but that's down the road a little.
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Old 02-04-2012, 10:44 PM   #173
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so after seeing the other thread i meantioned forgetting about getting head gaskets for 4.030, i cant seem to actually find a set.i can find individual gaskets.but buying this way(all seperate) adds dollars to my already maxxed out budget.i believe that the stock size gasket is still big enough but i just cant seem to confirm this anywhere.these are the gaskets i planned on getting.i cant find specs on these either.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51400904/
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Old 02-04-2012, 11:04 PM   #174
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Re: what it takes...

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so after seeing the other thread i meantioned forgetting about getting head gaskets for 4.030, i cant seem to actually find a set.i can find individual gaskets.but buying this way(all seperate) adds dollars to my already maxxed out budget.i believe that the stock size gasket is still big enough but i just cant seem to confirm this anywhere.these are the gaskets i planned on getting.i cant find specs on these either.

Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400904 - Trick Flow® Full Gasket Sets - Overview - SummitRacing.com
I looked specifically for a set for a 4.00 bore and didn't see any.
I didn't search thoroughly though just a quick look.
I think most gaskets must be 4.030.
Funny that the set you linked to don't seem to mention a bore size?
I researched that kit at Trick Flow and found out they are Fel Pro Gaskets and Trick Flow does not list any head gaskets under 4.030 bore.
You might try to find that kit in Fel Pro, since they make it it may be cheaper from them before they add the Trick Flow name.
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Old 02-04-2012, 11:29 PM   #175
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felpro's site navigation is terrible!when i search per vehicle it show no reults.trickflow doesnt list the part numbers so i cant really cross refence them that way. im sure i could find the gasket numbers if i kept searching.i think i may just wait till monday and call trickflow and/or felpro and see if any of them can give me the bore of the gasket.i read somewhere that some gaskets are made for a range of bore sizes.for instance.4.00 - 4.10.i just need confirmation for peace of mind.

during my search i did read that federal mogul makes felpro.this isnt related to my gasket search,but i just found it interesting being my pistons are federal mogul.

---------- Post added at 11:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:20 PM ----------

the thing that seems weird is, when most people are doing a full rebuild there is a good chance the motor is getting poked.so one would think if it needed a special/bigger gasket it would be just as common as a standard set.i know im only looking for the head gasket set and not overhaul kit.but i tried searching full engine kits also with the same results.but like i said im sure a supplier should know, because im getting tired of searching.lol
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