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Old 02-04-2012, 11:36 PM   #176
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Re: what it takes...

From searching and not finding the bores specified I think you are right.They just make them oversized to fit several applications.
To get specific bore sizes I bet you have to buy them separate.
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Old 02-04-2012, 11:59 PM   #177
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Yup.here just to show u.I'm not sure what gasket is on mine but I can see there is more than .015 room on the current gasket on my motor.
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:14 AM   #178
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Re: what it takes...

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Yup.here just to show u.I'm not sure what gasket is on mine but I can see there is more than .015 room on the current gasket on my motor.
Yeah, that looks to be around .100 bigger than the bore.
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:55 PM   #179
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u ever heard of indexing the spark plugs? leaving the gap on the plugs facing toward the intake valvle.i was just reading it can net u an extra 6-8 hp.i found it kind of interesting.

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...101/prd101.htm
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Old 02-07-2012, 08:12 PM   #180
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Re: what it takes...

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u ever heard of indexing the spark plugs? leaving the gap on the plugs facing toward the intake valvle.i was just reading it can net u an extra 6-8 hp.i found it kind of interesting.

Badass Cars.Com
Yes, but it is usually only worth the effort on race cars. That is something my cousin always did to his 1400+ HP drag car, trying to extract as much power as possible from it.


If it sounds good to you and you don't mind the effort, give it a try and let us know how it turns out. It sure shouldn't hurt anything.


Another spark plug mod you can do, is to carefully file or grind the side ground strap back to the middle of the center electrode. This exposes the "kernel" of the spark plug spark to the combustion chamber fuel/air mixture for better combustion and burn.


Note: This spark plug mod will shorten the life of your spark plugs so I would not do it to any expensive plugs.

Cool link, I put it into the Useful Info thread.
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Old 02-07-2012, 08:21 PM   #181
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i like a challenge! haha even if it doesnt do much i will feel like it did
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:00 PM   #182
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All parts ordered! Yay
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:24 PM   #183
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Re: what it takes...

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All parts ordered! Yay
All right!


On Monday, I scored an Edelbrock Victor 5.0 EFI intake, a 255 LPH fuel pump, a Vortech T-Rex external fuel pump, a 75 MM ported TB with the a new TPS and an IAC, an injector wiring harness, a 3" silicone tubing connector and a Kirban adjustable fuel pressure regulator. All for the grand sum of $280!
To say I'm happy is an understatement.
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:28 PM   #184
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heck yeah! some fine wheeling and dealing i must say.i think next weekend i may get a couple buddies over and pull an all nighter.i am so excited to get this beast going.
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:46 PM   #185
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Re: what it takes...

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heck yeah! some fine wheeling and dealing i must say.i think next weekend i may get a couple buddies over and pull an all nighter.i am so excited to get this beast going.
I bet you are excited. I'm stoked about the deal I got, but bummed that I can't work on mine yet.
I have so many parts gathered up that it's going to take me a very long time to get them all on and get the car tuned.
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:56 PM   #186
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if i lived closer id come help. .i think im gonna do my motor first.i want to see if i can tell the difference in the exhaust note with the same exhaust and upgrade motor.then im gonna drive a little so i can do a before and after on the umi arms.while im waiting for the parts to get here i need to hook up my gauges and paint my alternaor bracket and power steering bracket.all the new parts everything else looking good to.
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Old 02-08-2012, 08:03 PM   #187
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Re: what it takes...

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if i lived closer id come help. .i think im gonna do my motor first.i want to see if i can tell the difference in the exhaust note with the same exhaust and upgrade motor.then im gonna drive a little so i can do a before and after on the umi arms.while im waiting for the parts to get here i need to hook up my gauges and paint my alternaor bracket and power steering bracket.all the new parts everything else looking good to.
Thanks, I appreciate it.
I have a couple of nephews who seem to want to learn.
I told them they'd get the chance when the docs release me from their care.


That's a good idea to test each stage.
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Old 02-09-2012, 04:01 PM   #188
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I was a little leary,but my kmj performance eBay purchases went good.I ordered yesterday and already recieved my 2 items.arp head bolts 50$.and fabricated valve covers 75$.I was more worried about the valve covers quality.but the craftsmanship looks excellent.I did some kmj research and heard that most people where happy with the VC s .but I did find out that they do sell some pow grade China crap.but it seem like I did alright.
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Old 02-09-2012, 04:30 PM   #189
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Re: what it takes...

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Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
I was a little leary,but my kmj performance eBay purchases went good.I ordered yesterday and already recieved my 2 items.arp head bolts 50$.and fabricated valve covers 75$.I was more worried about the valve covers quality.but the craftsmanship looks excellent.I did some kmj research and heard that most people where happy with the VC s .but I did find out that they do sell some pow grade China crap.but it seem like I did alright.
Looks good to me.
I have purchased from KMJ and White Performance on eBay in the past.
Had good luck with both, but like you said theirs some China junk there too.
You just have to be aware of that and pick and choose carefully.


KMJ has a regular website too. - KMJ Performance
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:05 PM   #190
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The last ebay purchase arrived today.3g alternator rebuilt and sexy looking 90$ shipped.all 9 items from summit already arrived.all I'm waiting for now is my heads from AM.
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:06 PM   #191
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It even came with the harness witch is good because mine was messed up and I just had wire connectors on it.
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:19 PM   #192
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Re: what it takes...

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It even came with the harness witch is good because mine was messed up and I just had wire connectors on it.
I had to buy the harness for my 200 Amp alternator separately.
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:34 PM   #193
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This one is a 150 amp.it even came with pulley.but I'm undecided if I want to underdrive it yet.I might try it for chits and giggles if I have the right belt still.I think I do.but the.reason I'm undecided is I now have the electric fan and msd box.

I also forgot,I ordered a power steering pulley from ehp.he gave it to me for just 20$ shipped.whenever I changed the pump I forgot to get a pulley remover.so I got rammy and I figured I could just use a big puller on the actual pulley and messed it up a little.so now the belt squeels.oops.I can't have all them pretty new parts on there and have a bad squeel.

Yeah that sux yours didn't come with.I didn't look at mine, but are the plugs different? I was gonna get a plug back when I first noticed it was sketchy from lrs.but I was waiting till I had more to order because the 88 style plug was only 15$, but there 15$ flat rate shipping doubled the price.but now I'm glad they have free shipping cause now if I need a 15$ part I can order it without paying twice the price.
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:56 PM   #194
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Re: what it takes...

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This one is a 150 amp.it even came with pulley.but I'm undecided if I want to underdrive it yet.I might try it for chits and giggles if I have the right belt still.I think I do.but the.reason I'm undecided is I now have the electric fan and msd box.

I also forgot,I ordered a power steering pulley from ehp.he gave it to me for just 20$ shipped.whenever I changed the pump I forgot to get a pulley remover.so I got rammy and I figured I could just use a big puller on the actual pulley and messed it up a little.so now the belt squeels.oops.I can't have all them pretty new parts on there and have a bad squeel.

Yeah that sux yours didn't come with.I didn't look at mine, but are the plugs different? I was gonna get a plug back when I first noticed it was sketchy from lrs.but I was waiting till I had more to order because the 88 style plug was only 15$, but there 15$ flat rate shipping doubled the price.but now I'm glad they have free shipping cause now if I need a 15$ part I can order it without paying twice the price.
I wouldn't bother with the under drive pulley. With the electric fan and MSD, it's more important to keep full volts/amps to the system.
I ruined the first power steering pump pulley I tried to remove too.
I thought it was screwed on there because it had wrench flats on it and the hex key hole in the shaft. Oops!


Yeah, I'm pretty sure the electrical plugs are different.
Did yours come with a rewiring diagram?
If not we'll have to find you one.
I may still have mine here somewhere.
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Old 02-11-2012, 12:02 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

I wouldn't bother with the under drive pulley. With the electric fan and MSD, it's more important to keep full volts/amps to the system.
I ruined the first power steering pump pulley I tried to remove too.
I thought it was screwed on there because it had wrench flats on it and the hex key hole in the shaft. Oops!

Yeah, I'm pretty sure the electrical plugs are different.
Did yours come with a rewiring diagram?
If not we'll have to find you one.
I may still have mine here somewhere.
It did come with a paper but I really didn't get a chance to look at it.ill check it out tommorow and let u know.thanx.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:16 PM   #196
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got the pit crew (good buddies) coming over sat.gonna hopefully have it fired up same day.
im gonna run with the fuel pump thats in there for now.but i im gonna hook up that adjustable fuel pressure reg that i purchased.and im also gonna go ahead and change the alternator,and ps pulley.and clean up that msd wiring that i havent finished yet.then if time alows hook up my new gauges.seems like a tall task for one day but im gonna start early and see what happens.

i dont know if i told you or not but i did go with the weiand stealth.it was fairly cheap and i wouldnt mine everything looking new.i thought about having my offy dipped.im hoping i can just sell mine and make up half the cost.and not halse with it.i put the offy in the classifieds.

also the carb i went with is aluminum.its the 670 street avenger holley.it looks pretty sweet.

i also strayed away from the afr's and went trickflow.that was a tough decision. lol but i was scared of the piston knotching . i am gonna run 1.7 scorpion rrs in them.and i had to get longer pushrods.i am gonna have to make sure they are the right length. but i ordered the ones that the heads recomended.

thats about it,i just thought i would give my latest update.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:42 PM   #197
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Re: what it takes...

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got the pit crew (good buddies) coming over sat.gonna hopefully have it fired up same day.
im gonna run with the fuel pump thats in there for now.but i im gonna hook up that adjustable fuel pressure reg that i purchased.and im also gonna go ahead and change the alternator,and ps pulley.and clean up that msd wiring that i havent finished yet.then if time alows hook up my new gauges.seems like a tall task for one day but im gonna start early and see what happens.

i dont know if i told you or not but i did go with the weiand stealth.it was fairly cheap and i wouldnt mine everything looking new.i thought about having my offy dipped.im hoping i can just sell mine and make up half the cost.and not halse with it.i put the offy in the classifieds.

also the carb i went with is aluminum.its the 670 street avenger holley.it looks pretty sweet.

i also strayed away from the afr's and went trickflow.that was a tough decision. lol but i was scared of the piston knotching . i am gonna run 1.7 scorpion rrs in them.and i had to get longer pushrods.i am gonna have to make sure they are the right length. but i ordered the ones that the heads recomended.

thats about it,i just thought i would give my latest update.
I think you will like the Stealth intake and that's a good choice for the carb too.
I thought your pistons were notched?
They make a cheap pushrod length checker you can get from Jegs if you need it.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:49 PM   #198
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they are knotched.but arent those knotches the same as a stock piston?or do stock pistons not have knoches?

---------- Post added at 07:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:44 PM ----------

yes my buddy has a checker.i did call trickflow and they were confident that i should use 6.75 length pushrods.the stock are 6.25. so i went ahead and ordered them hoping that i can do the install all at once.the instructions for the heads give me the vulcram height.so after i get zero lash.i tighten a half turn and then check the height.if its wrong i will exchange the rods and be delayed. if not then great.
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:21 PM   #199
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Re: what it takes...

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they are knotched.but arent those knotches the same as a stock piston?or do stock pistons not have knoches?

---------- Post added at 07:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:44 PM ----------

yes my buddy has a checker.i did call trickflow and they were confident that i should use 6.75 length pushrods.the stock are 6.25. so i went ahead and ordered them hoping that i can do the install all at once.the instructions for the heads give me the vulcram height.so after i get zero lash.i tighten a half turn and then check the height.if its wrong i will exchange the rods and be delayed. if not then great.
Some do have notches, others don't.
I went back and looked at the pics, those are notched on both sides so they will interchange to either side of the engine. It's likely they are not notched enough.


I'd go ahead and clay them to check and see exactly how much clearance you have, for future reference if nothing else.
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:35 PM   #200
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oh yeah i had one more question.my instructions to clay the piston say to do 1 valve at a time.the only logical reason i can see for this is they require different clearance .080 intake and .100 exhaust.so it would be hard to get a good measurment on the clay with both valves hitting the clay.my thought was to clay 2 different cylinders and check one cylinders intake valve and the other ones exhaust valve. thanx
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:00 PM   #201
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Re: what it takes...

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oh yeah i had one more question.my instructions to clay the piston say to do 1 valve at a time.the only logical reason i can see for this is they require different clearance .080 intake and .100 exhaust.so it would be hard to get a good measurment on the clay with both valves hitting the clay.my thought was to clay 2 different cylinders and check one cylinders intake valve and the other ones exhaust valve. thanx
I think the main reason is that one of the valves might stick to and move the clay deforming the other valves impression. Since they are so close together it would be hard to clay the valves separately.


A careful application of a bit of talcum powder on top of the clay and making sure the valve is dry would probably prevent that from happening. Maybe make a careful cut in the clay between the valves too so it can deform without affecting the other side too much. I'd sure hate to have to do every valve separately.


Just be sure to turn the crank through about 20 degrees on either side of TDC as that is the range the pistons are closest to the valve in.
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:13 PM   #202
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ok good. thanx again. hopefully sat night or sunday ill have a vid posted.
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:18 PM   #203
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ok good. thanx again. hopefully sat night or sunday ill have a vid posted.
Be looking for it.
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:43 PM   #204
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Pic of recent purchase.I haven't worked Sat in 6 weeks.now I plan for my install and I have to work.I'm still gonna give it hell though.
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:59 PM   #205
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Pic of recent purchase.I haven't worked Sat in 6 weeks.now I plan for my install and I have to work.I'm still gonna give it hell though.
Well that just sux.


Looks like the Mustang parts elves made a stop at your place.
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:37 PM   #206
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Haha.that's only that purchase to.other not installed parts on my shelf include : gauges and pod,adjustable fuel reg,ps pulley,head and tail light,New receptacle thingys that the top latch go into,fuel pump,Speedo cable and 3.73 correction gear,shifter booty. Probably got more stuff here somewhere also.lol

I installed my short throw a year or more ago and forgot to put in the springs that came with it.I didn't put to many miles on last year so I didn't sweat it to much.anyways I rotor what brand it was cause the guy I bought it from didn't telemetry.so the question is do u think that other after market springs will be the same?if not should I just get some random springs from work till I find one that fits?
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:05 PM   #207
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Re: what it takes...

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Haha.that's only that purchase to.other not installed parts on my shelf include : gauges and pod,adjustable fuel reg,ps pulley,head and tail light,New receptacle thingys that the top latch go into,fuel pump,Speedo cable and 3.73 correction gear,shifter booty. Probably got more stuff here somewhere also.lol

I installed my short throw a year or more ago and forgot to put in the springs that came with it.I didn't put to many miles on last year so I didn't sweat it to much.anyways I rotor what brand it was cause the guy I bought it from didn't telemetry.so the question is do u think that other after market springs will be the same?if not should I just get some random springs from work till I find one that fits?
Hahaha! Your parts list is as long or longer than mine.


The springs should be very similar from almost any brand as they all serve the same purpose.
You can try just finding some that fit and see how it feels.
If it feels and works ok you're good to go.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:07 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Hahaha! Your parts list is as long or longer than mine.

The springs should be very similar from almost any brand as they all serve the same purpose.
You can try just finding some that fit and see how it feels.
If it feels and works ok you're good to go.
Haha good.thanx as always.
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:13 PM   #209
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What is the recomended spark plug gap for autolites..instructions didn't specify
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Old 02-18-2012, 10:03 PM   #210
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Re: what it takes...

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What is the recomended spark plug gap for autolites..instructions didn't specify
.054" for N/A engines.
Forced induction requires a tighter gap and colder plug.
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