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Old 09-06-2012, 02:00 PM   #2136
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Did you build it or buy it built?
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:08 PM   #2137
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A little of both. I bought it about half done, but I've completely rebuilt the motor the way I want it, built the trans, rear end, suspension. Most of the exterior motor parts were there tho.
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:30 PM   #2138
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Yeah me too kinda.. I blew a head gasket then used the opportunity to upgrade some things.. Your car is pretty nice. Any future plans with paint and stuff?
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:35 PM   #2139
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I want to paint It midnight blue. But it's just so expensive. Maybe once the build is perfect I'll think about paint. Yea the guy I bought it from told me it ran on 91 octane. Then I melted a piston an discovered the c/r was like 12:1. Ha so I used the opportunity to build the short block the right way.
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:47 PM   #2140
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Re: what it takes...

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I think I got it pretty much figured out in my head. Once I get more into it I will share some more. The only thing I may need some ideas on is the bearing support bolt. They are gonna be hard to work into my design. But the drain and fill plugs won't be a problem. Once I get it tacked up good I will post a pic. I'm hoping I don't have to machine the flange, but if It needs it I am capable of doing it.
Once you are done welding on it I would make a pass or two on the flange and make sure it is nice and flat. Otherwise you might distort the cast iron housing a bit.


The bearing cap support bolts need to be centered over the bearing caps and put pressure on the center of the cap. They have a flat end with a ball & socket swivel joint there so it does not grind against the cap when you torque them down. You could probably find the studs/bolts at McMaster-Carr or maybe order a set from one of the girdle manufacturers.
You could use these - Swivel pad thumb screws - and cut the heads off. Then use two nuts locked together to torque them down.


The idea I had was to bridge across the center of the housing and have a threaded tube on both sides to mount axle tube support braces to.
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:10 PM   #2141
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Re: what it takes...

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I have uppers/lowers, torque box reinforcements, and competition engineering adjustable drag shocks on brand new motto nt555r drag radials. And I get no traction! Granted the only run I got on this setup was a cloth dump not slip. But what can I do to get it to launch hard on a dump and hook up?

*nitto not moto haha

Oh I forgot I have bbk springs and weld in subframes a well
Lower lift bars, upper adjustables, softer rear springs (4 cyl springs work pretty well front and rear), move the battery to the right rear, make sure pinion angle is correct, 1-3 degrees down I think. If you have adjustable front struts to go with the adjustable rears, set the fronts at 70/30 and the rears at 90/10.


The lift bars are mounted lower than regular lower control arms, which relocates your instant center and helps the car transfer the weight better for more traction. The adjustable uppers will allow you to set/adjust your pinion angle to where it needs to be for more efficient transfer of HP. You want the pinion pointed down just enough so that under hard acceleration it comes up and levels out perfectly inline with the driveshaft.

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Old 09-06-2012, 05:16 PM   #2142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Once you are done welding on it I would make a pass or two on the flange and make sure it is nice and flat. Otherwise you might distort the cast iron housing a bit.

The bearing cap support bolts need to be centered over the bearing caps and put pressure on the center of the cap. They have a flat end with a ball & socket swivel joint there so it does not grind against the cap when you torque them down. You could probably find the studs/bolts at McMaster-Carr or maybe order a set from one of the girdle manufacturers.
You could use these - Swivel pad thumb screws - and cut the heads off. Then use two nuts locked together to torque them down.

The idea I had was to bridge across the center of the housing and have a threaded tube on both sides to mount axle tube support braces to.
I will definitely make sure its nice and flat.

Do you think its necessary to use a swivel head bolt? I was think a threaded rod and jam nut. But rounding the end that presses against the cap. I just figured that it wouldn't be torqued enough to matter. But if its the right way that's what I will use.

Also tell me more about your idea to bridge across.

I think later tonight I'm gonna get some cardboard. And tape together a rough design. Then I will take a pic. Then maybe we can get into more detail.

I'm not fully set on using the supports off the cover or not. I really like the welded ones on the inside like the picture I showed. I actually like the cover supports a little more but not sure if I'm gonna get that crazy yet.

Oh btw I got the flange cut out and holes punched in it. That's as far as I got. I didn't cut the inside of the flange yet, only the outside. I wanna wait till I make this cardboard piece to make sure everything will work.

And thanx for all the tips.
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:44 PM   #2143
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Re: what it takes...

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I will definitely make sure its nice and flat.

Do you think its necessary to use a swivel head bolt? I was think a threaded rod and jam nut. But rounding the end that presses against the cap. I just figured that it wouldn't be torqued enough to matter. But if its the right way that's what I will use.

Also tell me more about your idea to bridge across.

I think later tonight I'm gonna get some cardboard. And tape together a rough design. Then I will take a pic. Then maybe we can get into more detail.

I'm not fully set on using the supports off the cover or not. I really like the welded ones on the inside like the picture I showed. I actually like the cover supports a little more but not sure if I'm gonna get that crazy yet.

Oh btw I got the flange cut out and holes punched in it. That's as far as I got. I didn't cut the inside of the flange yet, only the outside. I wanna wait till I make this cardboard piece to make sure everything will work.

And thanx for all the tips.
Yeah, you need the flat swivel head so you can distribute the force instead of pin pointing it, that way you don't take a chance of cracking the bearing cap.


I'm talking about a bridge like on the LPW Ultimate.



I'd seriously consider the axle tube supports and I would use the ones like above so you can slightly "load" the bars with some outward pressure. I'd also weld the tubes to the center section. Notice the plate across the arms at the center, that's another good idea to tie it all together. That way it is close to one solid piece for the most strength.


Since you will be launching on slicks I really think all of these mods will be a good idea.
Better safe than sorry.................and you know how I like to over do things somewhat.
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:19 PM   #2144
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My brain hurts...cuz every once in a while I learn things about stuff on this thread...ahhhh I R sMart!...i think im gunna wash it down with a beer or 8 just so I know I won't forget what I've learned!...
If you guys didn't know beer helps grow brains up to be big and smart and always remember things!.
If you guys didn't know beer helps grow brains up to be big and smart and always remember things!.
That's not my opinion it's science¡..just sayin ° *burp hiccup*

Hey farve what's the name of that place with all the goofy sh¡t on the walls and mozzarella sticks?..
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:35 PM   #2145
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My brain hurts...cuz every once in a while I learn things about stuff on this thread...ahhhh I R sMart!...i think im gunna wash it down with a beer or 8 just so I know I won't forget what I've learned!...
If you guys didn't know beer helps grow brains up to be big and smart and always remember things!.
If you guys didn't know beer helps grow brains up to be big and smart and always remember things!.
That's not my opinion it's science¡..just sayin ° *burp hiccup*

Hey farve what's the name of that place with all the goofy sh¡t on the walls and mozzarella sticks?..
Lol. ^ Beer...yummm...

---------- Post added at 06:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:29 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Yeah, you need the flat swivel head so you can distribute the force instead of pin pointing it, that way you don't take a chance of cracking the bearing cap.

I'm talking about a bridge like on the LPW Ultimate.

I'd seriously consider the axle tube supports and I would use the ones like above so you can slightly "load" the bars with some outward pressure. I'd also weld the tubes to the center section. Notice the plate across the arms at the center, that's another good idea to tie it all together. That way it is close to one solid piece for the most strength.

Since you will be launching on slicks I really think all of these mods will be a good idea.
Better safe than sorry.................and you know how I like to over do things somewhat.
Well my arm hurts from the twisting lol. I Always leave it to you to make me do ***** right. I like to keep it simple. So with that said you have talked me into making the bridge. Not the bridge your thinking of Steve.

Give me a couple hours and I will try to pull together a model. The tricky part is using flat plates tying into the radiused flange. But I think I have it figured out. So for now time to fire the Grill and cook up some shrimp skewers. Then diff cover model time.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:10 PM   #2146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Lower lift bars, upper adjustables, softer rear springs (4 cyl springs work pretty well front and rear), move the battery to the right rear, make sure pinion angle is correct, 1-3 degrees down I think. If you have adjustable front struts to go with the adjustable rears, set the fronts at 70/30 and the rears at 90/10.

The lift bars are mounted lower than regular lower control arms, which relocates your instant center and helps the car transfer the weight better for more traction. The adjustable uppers will allow you to set/adjust your pinion angle to where it needs to be for more efficient transfer of HP. You want the pinion pointed down just enough so that under hard acceleration it comes up and levels out perfectly inline with the driveshaft.
I have adjustable Rears that go as far as 70/30. But so far as the rest, looks like its time to start saving lol thanks for all the insight!
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:11 PM   #2147
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Re: what it takes...

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Lol. ^ Beer...yummm...

---------- Post added at 06:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:29 PM ----------


Well my arm hurts from the twisting lol. I Always leave it to you to make me do ***** right. I like to keep it simple. So with that said you have talked me into making the bridge. Not the bridge your thinking of Steve.

Give me a couple hours and I will try to pull together a model. The tricky part is using flat plates tying into the radiused flange. But I think I have it figured out. So for now time to fire the Grill and cook up some shrimp skewers. Then diff cover model time.
Sorry about the arm, I'll ease up a bit now.


So is Steve wanting to go to Chucky Cheese's or what.


If you can bend one long piece on each end to span the center horizontally that would leave you with an upper and lower and the four corners which could be angled off I think, maybe, if they will clear the ring gear on the one side?
I can see it in my head, but explaining it is another thing.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:14 PM   #2148
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Re: what it takes...

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I have adjustable Rears that go as far as 70/30. But so far as the rest, looks like its time to start saving lol thanks for all the insight!
You're welcome, good luck.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:07 PM   #2149
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Ok fellas. I wonder if It will hold oil? Lol
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:08 PM   #2150
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Ok fellas. I wonder if It will hold oil? Lol
Man that was a quick mock up, nice!
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:09 PM   #2151
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Man that was a quick mock up, nice!
Thanx. I had it half made while waiting on the grill.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:10 PM   #2152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
Ok fellas. I wonder if It will hold oil? Lol
It'll hold oil no prob!might want to quadruple up the cardboard tho just for extra insurance
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:11 PM   #2153
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It'll hold oil no prob!might want to quadruple up the cardboard tho just for extra insurance
Good point. And maybe if I'm feeling frisky I will add gorilla tape.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:13 PM   #2154
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Oh oh oh *tim Allen impersonation*
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:41 PM   #2155
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Sorry about the arm, I'll ease up a bit now.

So is Steve wanting to go to Chucky Cheese's or what.

If you can bend one long piece on each end to span the center horizontally that would leave you with an upper and lower and the four corners which could be angled off I think, maybe, if they will clear the ring gear on the one side?
I can see it in my head, but explaining it is another thing.
It was a super troopers reference jeeeez!!...ya know shenanigans!..DOY!!..

---------- Post added at 09:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
Ok fellas. I wonder if It will hold oil? Lol
The summit sticker makes it kewl!..
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:46 PM   #2156
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It was a super troopers reference jeeeez!!...ya know shenanigans!..DOY!!..

---------- Post added at 09:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 PM ----------



The summit sticker makes it kewl!..
dont worry it will be much kewler when its made out of steel.

i just cant decide if i want to sand it up seamless or leave some sexy welds on it? i may make that call on the fly.
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:48 PM   #2157
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dont worry it will be much kewler when its made out of steel.

i just cant decide if i want to sand it up seamless or leave some sexy welds on it? i may make that call on the fly.
I say leave some sweet as welds!..gives it dat beefy industrial look nah wut I mean jeely bean?!..
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:52 PM   #2158
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I say leave some sweet as welds!..gives it dat beefy industrial look nah wut I mean jeely bean?!..
thats what i want to do. i just dont know if it will get out of control with that many welds. basically everywhere with black marker in the pic will be weld. well of course the holes. we will see... it will take me a while to finish it up because im doing it a little here and there at work.
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:52 PM   #2159
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I say leave some sweet as welds!..gives it dat beefy industrial look nah wut I mean jeely bean?!..
+1
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:22 AM   #2160
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Re: what it takes...

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Ok fellas. I wonder if It will hold oil? Lol
Damn, that was quick, you have a natural talent for that stuff.

Quote:
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It was a super troopers reference jeeeez!!...ya know shenanigans!..DOY!!..
Sorry Steve, some of us "older members" make mistakes like that.
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:08 AM   #2161
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Damn, that was quick, you have a natural talent for that stuff.

Sorry Steve, some of us "older members" make mistakes like that.
I'm probably not gonna make the supports just yet. But how did you have your planned to make? I just need to know what I'm gonna do with them so I can make the support on the cover properly. The only reason I'm not gonna make them yet is I'm running out if track season. So I just want to get her down the track. And I'm not gonna take the slicks this go.
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:12 AM   #2162
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I'm probably not gonna make the supports just yet. But how did you have your planned to make? I just need to know what I'm gonna do with them so I can make the support on the cover properly. The only reason I'm not gonna make them yet is I'm running out if track season. So I just want to get her down the track. And I'm not gonna take the slicks this go.
You would need to enlarge the flat plate on the back enough to encompass the bearing caps with enough room for the support stud nuts to be welded on. Then you could add them later.
If you need me to, I can measure the center to center on my LPW?
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:15 AM   #2163
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You would need to enlarge the flat plate on the back enough to encompass the bearing caps with enough room for the support stud nuts to be welded on. Then you could add them later.
If you need me to, I can measure the center to center on my LPW?

Yeah that would help. For the bearing support. Later on when I get a chance I'm gonna make a couple low grade sketches and show what I have planned. I was referring to the axles supports also. How to make the rods.
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:26 AM   #2164
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Yeah that would help. For the bearing support. Later on when I get a chance I'm gonna make a couple low grade sketches and show what I have planned. I was referring to the axles supports also. How to make the rods.
Sorry, I misunderread you.


The axle supports are just some tubing with rod ends in them.
I don't have mine made yet, but I think I will use 1/2" rod ends and just round off 4-1/2" fine thread nuts and weld them into the tubes on each end, then you need 1 more nut each for lock nuts. You will need 2-standard and 2-reverse threaded nuts & rod ends, so you can apply a bit of pressure after the rod end attaching bolts are installed.
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:55 AM   #2165
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Re: what it takes...

Also, in reference to the exhaust discussion thread the other day, here are some Flowmasters that cause "No Loss of Power". (Racing silencers | Racing mufflers from Flowmaster, the Exhaust and Muffler Technology Company)
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:04 AM   #2166
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Sorry, I misunderread you.

The axle supports are just some tubing with rod ends in them.
I don't have mine made yet, but I think I will use 1/2" rod ends and just round off 4-1/2" fine thread nuts and weld them into the tubes on each end. You will need 2-standard and 2-reverse threaded nuts & rod ends, so you can apply a bit of pressure after the rod end attaching bolts are installed.
Sounds like it should work.

When u say rod ends you mean just a simple tie rod type end?

Thanx again

---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 AM ----------

Quote:
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Also, in reference to the exhaust discussion thread the other day, here are some Flowmasters that cause "No Loss of Power". (Racing silencers | Racing mufflers from Flowmaster, the Exhaust and Muffler Technology Company)
I'll check out the videos after a while.
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:33 AM   #2167
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Sounds like it should work.

When u say rod ends you mean just a simple tie rod type end?

Thanx again

---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 AM ----------

I'll check out the videos after a while.
These - McMaster-Carr
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:07 PM   #2168
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These - McMaster-Carr
Ok one more question. What's the theory using a ball/hein type connection? Because I think I can make a tube with the nuts welded in like you said. And then make the mounts on both the cover and axle tube parallel with each other face to face. That way all I need is to use regular ol 1/2" threaded rod in each end with jam nuts on each side of the mounts.
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Old 09-07-2012, 04:02 PM   #2169
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Ok trojan. Here's the way I kinda wanted to do it. I will be able to apply load to the tubing and should be a pretty easy install. It looks kinda elaborate but really isnt. Let me know what you think.
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Old 09-07-2012, 04:15 PM   #2170
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Ok trojan. Here's the way I kinda wanted to do it. I will be able to apply load to the tubing and should be a pretty easy install. It looks kinda elaborate but really isnt. Let me know what you think.
Will that setup help secure the axle tubes?
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