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Old 09-14-2012, 12:45 AM   #2381
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Re: what it takes...

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Hey fellas, So i just got back from a trip to Catalina Island, but I finally finished my garage if anyone's interested. check it out there are a lot of pictures and specs on the fox.
Really nice job on the Mustang.

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More progress.

Nice looking butt cover for your rear.
Looks like you know a bit about welding too.
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:25 PM   #2382
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http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/3271384919.html

You guys need to read this ad.. Ford kickassmobile lmao..
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Old 09-14-2012, 02:42 PM   #2383
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Ford Kickassmobile

You guys need to read this ad.. Ford kickassmobile lmao..
Bit of creative selling there eh?
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Old 09-14-2012, 02:53 PM   #2384
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http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/3271384919.html

You guys need to read this ad.. Ford kickassmobile lmao..
I was fukn cracking my a$$ up reading this.
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Old 09-14-2012, 03:09 PM   #2385
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http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/3271384919.html

You guys need to read this ad.. Ford kickassmobile lmao..
Haha!...that's awesome..
I need some good campaigning like this in motm!. Start some real mudslinging!.
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Old 09-14-2012, 03:09 PM   #2386
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http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/3271384919.html

You guys need to read this ad.. Ford kickassmobile lmao..
Had to nominate that one for best of. Lmao.
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Old 09-14-2012, 03:47 PM   #2387
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Hey trojan. I was thinking of doing my tube support design a little more like the lpw. But I got a few questions.

I think my cover is beefy enough I don't need to bridge all the way across. I think I can miter each side seperately and be plenty strong. You agree?

Then also, I havent seen a top view looking from above the axle housing down onto the cover. Is the bridge on the cover flat all the way across? I know the cap support bolts should be perpendicular to the flange. But what about the axle support mounting surface/hole? If they are at an angle, could you give me that angle in degrees?
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Old 09-14-2012, 04:36 PM   #2388
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http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/3271384919.html

You guys need to read this ad.. Ford kickassmobile lmao..
Ahaha I was crying reading this. I bet he sold it too :p
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:14 PM   #2389
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oh. trojan, also the maybe a measurement of how high the part of the bridge is from the flange/mounting surface. because if mine is different than that, it may change the angle a little tiny bit. if its even angeled. plus i am sure that using the rod ends will take up any misalignments.
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:15 PM   #2390
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Re: what it takes...

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Hey trojan. I was thinking of doing my tube support design a little more like the lpw. But I got a few questions.

I think my cover is beefy enough I don't need to bridge all the way across. I think I can miter each side seperately and be plenty strong. You agree?

Then also, I havent seen a top view looking from above the axle housing down onto the cover. Is the bridge on the cover flat all the way across? I know the cap support bolts should be perpendicular to the flange. But what about the axle support mounting surface/hole? If they are at an angle, could you give me that angle in degrees?
The bridge across connects both sides to further triangulate and strengthen the rear end tubes.
It would be stronger if you did, but the choice is yours.
The bridge is flat with the cover, the brackets/tabs on the axle tubes are pretty much whatever you need them to be, which is usually about 90 degrees from the cover mounts. The spherical rods ends help negate any minor discrepancies.
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:23 PM   #2391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

The bridge across connects both sides to further triangulate and strengthen the rear end tubes.
It would be stronger if you did, but the choice is yours.
The bridge is flat with the cover, the brackets/tabs on the axle tubes are pretty much whatever you need them to be, which is usually about 90 degrees from the cover mounts. The spherical rods ends help negate any minor discrepancies.
ok cool. i thought it looked flat, but was hard to be certain from the couple pictures i looked at.

the bridging across part im still uncertain about. i just want to make sure it looks nice. but i also want to make sure its super functional. the cover imo is pretty tough as it is. but im gonna have to debate this in my head a little. the final call will probably come when i start making sparks.

as for the brace. i may or maynot use the spherical rod ends on both ends. maybe just the cover side. but that part i can figure out later. i was staring at the cover for a while today and just wasnt sure i liked the plan or not. so thats why i decided to go a little more similar of the lpw.

what you think on the axle brace threads? 1/2 13 maybe?

oh and thanx for the opinions on this. its really helping out.
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:41 PM   #2392
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Re: what it takes...

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oh. trojan, also the maybe a measurement of how high the part of the bridge is from the flange/mounting surface. because if mine is different than that, it may change the angle a little tiny bit. if its even angeled. plus i am sure that using the rod ends will take up any misalignments.
The mounting point for the braces is 3.250" from the cover mounting surface.
The center to center of the support studs is 7.00"
The center to center of the brace mounting points on the cover is 9.250"


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Old 09-14-2012, 05:47 PM   #2393
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Re: what it takes...

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ok cool. i thought it looked flat, but was hard to be certain from the couple pictures i looked at.

the bridging across part im still uncertain about. i just want to make sure it looks nice. but i also want to make sure its super functional. the cover imo is pretty tough as it is. but im gonna have to debate this in my head a little. the final call will probably come when i start making sparks.

as for the brace. i may or maynot use the spherical rod ends on both ends. maybe just the cover side. but that part i can figure out later. i was staring at the cover for a while today and just wasnt sure i liked the plan or not. so thats why i decided to go a little more similar of the lpw.

what you think on the axle brace threads? 1/2 13 maybe?

oh and thanx for the opinions on this. its really helping out.
Yes, 1/2" x 13 thd is what is in my cover.


Your cover will be tougher than the aluminum no doubt, but there are some pretty substantial forces on the ends of the tubes too.


No problem, I just hope my opinions don't stink.
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:03 PM   #2394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

The mounting point for the braces is 3.250" from the cover mounting surface.
The center to center of the support studs is 7.00"
The center to center of the brace mounting points on the cover is 9.250"
Perfect.
Now I know with the spherical bushings, its ok. But imo I don't think it would be hard the bend/miter the top of my bridge past the support studs but before the tube support anchor points.

---------- Post added at 06:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:48 PM ----------

now im just waiting for steve to hop in and call our talk jibberish and reference himself needing a beer. hahaha. sorry steve i couldnt resist.
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:25 PM   #2395
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Perfect.
Now I know with the spherical bushings, its ok. But imo I don't think it would be hard the bend/miter the top of my bridge past the support studs but before the tube support anchor points.

---------- Post added at 06:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:48 PM ----------

now im just waiting for steve to hop in and call our talk jibberish and reference himself needing a beer. hahaha. sorry steve i couldnt resist.
NOPE!!..dats nAt jibberjam! Ive seen these writings before! Indiana jones and the raiders of the lost ark! Right before Indy threatens to destroy the ark he's reading ancient hieroglyphs with the same markings you two yahoo's are yappin boot!
I get it!..mark blah blah blah from yada yada yada then: curl(H) = + j f ∂D ∂t
H⋅ dℓ = + D⋅n dS ∮ C I f ∂ ∂ and bing bang boom custom rear diff cover with a gun rack (batteries not included)

Oh yeah and....BEER!!!
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:34 PM   #2396
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NOPE!!..dats nAt jibberjam! Ive seen these writings before! Indiana jones and the raiders of the lost ark! Right before Indy threatens to destroy the ark he's reading ancient hieroglyphs with the same markings you two yahoo's are yappin boot!
I get it!..mark blah blah blah from yada yada yada then: curl(H) = + j f ∂D ∂t
H⋅ dℓ = + D⋅n dS ∮ C I f ∂ ∂ and bing bang boom custom rear diff cover with a gun rack (batteries not included)

Oh yeah and....BEER!!!
^ perfect
Exactly what I was waiting on. Lmao
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:51 PM   #2397
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NOPE!!..dats nAt jibberjam! Ive seen these writings before! Indiana jones and the raiders of the lost ark! Right before Indy threatens to destroy the ark he's reading ancient hieroglyphs with the same markings you two yahoo's are yappin boot!
I get it!..mark blah blah blah from yada yada yada then: curl(H) = + j f ∂D ∂t
H⋅ dℓ = + D⋅n dS ∮ C I f ∂ ∂ and bing bang boom custom rear diff cover with a gun rack (batteries not included)

Oh yeah and....BEER!!!
Lmao!
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:28 PM   #2398
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Haha this whole convo is cracking me up
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:44 PM   #2399
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Lol, definitely beer-30.. Just got back from making a tearing up the streets.. Saw a skyline but couldn't get it to jump light to light..
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Old 09-15-2012, 04:47 AM   #2400
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Re: what it takes...

Ladies and gentlemen,

Steveo has left the building...................
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:18 AM   #2401
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Ladies and gentlemen,

Steveo has left the building...................
Lol

Hey one more question. I'm gonna try to get some more fabbing done before I get the actual load bolts. The bolts I found on summit racing don't specify the size thread they are. I am gonna assume they are a standard size from cover to cover. But I am thinking 3/8 16. Do you know what the threads are on your cover? That way I can just make mine the same.
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Old 09-15-2012, 12:34 PM   #2402
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Re: what it takes...

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Lol

Hey one more question. I'm gonna try to get some more fabbing done before I get the actual load bolts. The bolts I found on summit racing don't specify the size thread they are. I am gonna assume they are a standard size from cover to cover. But I am thinking 3/8 16. Do you know what the threads are on your cover? That way I can just make mine the same.
The bearing cap load bolts are 1/2" x 13 thd on the LPW.
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Old 09-15-2012, 04:23 PM   #2403
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Ok. Here is the updated design for the bridge. It was done by hand, so hopefully you guys can tell what I'm thinking.
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Old 09-15-2012, 04:36 PM   #2404
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The bearing cap load bolts are 1/2" x 13 thd on the LPW.
Ok thanks. I already made the bridge this morning. And I guessed the 3/8. Doh! But I didn't like it anyways. I think I need to make it a hair longer because the axle sup bolt is to close to the cap sup bolt. But no biggie cause it wasn't hard to make. Especially now that I o.ow what I'm looking for.

Also, since the bridge plate is only 1/4". I made the axle sup hole l, just a through hole. So I will need a nut. But the cap sup hole will need to be tapped. And 1/4" plate isn't thick enough for a 1/2" bolt. So after I tap it I'm also gonna weld a nut on the inside to give it more meat.
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Old 09-15-2012, 05:16 PM   #2405
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Derp...
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Old 09-15-2012, 05:42 PM   #2406
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Re: what it takes...

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Ok. Here is the updated design for the bridge. It was done by hand, so hopefully you guys can tell what I'm thinking.
Looks like it'll work ok to me.

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Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
Ok thanks. I already made the bridge this morning. And I guessed the 3/8. Doh! But I didn't like it anyways. I think I need to make it a hair longer because the axle sup bolt is to close to the cap sup bolt. But no biggie cause it wasn't hard to make. Especially now that I o.ow what I'm looking for.

Also, since the bridge plate is only 1/4". I made the axle sup hole l, just a through hole. So I will need a nut. But the cap sup hole will need to be tapped. And 1/4" plate isn't thick enough for a 1/2" bolt. So after I tap it I'm also gonna weld a nut on the inside to give it more meat.

I'd drill the hole, then weld the nut on and then tap the hole through the nut so the threads line up perfectly.
Either that or just drill the hole big enough for the stud to slide through, then weld the nut on. I think the nut will have enough threads to hold it ok.


P.S. Make sure you check the inside to see that you have enough clearance for the swivel on the stud. The LPW stud swivel is approximately 5/8" off the end of the stud.
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Old 09-15-2012, 05:44 PM   #2407
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Re: what it takes...

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Derp...
Erp! Father?
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Old 09-15-2012, 05:53 PM   #2408
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Looks like it'll work ok to me.

I'd drill the hole, then weld the nut on and then tap the hole through the nut so the threads line up perfectly.
Either that or just drill the hole big enough for the stud to slide through, then weld the nut on. I think the nut will have enough threads to hold it ok.

P.S. Make sure you check the inside to see that you have enough clearance for the swivel on the stud. The LPW stud swivel is approximately 5/8" off the end of the stud.
Yeah. It's probably better that I wait for the load bolts to arrive before I finish that part. Just to be sure.

I am gonna tap the plate and weld the nut. What I will do is tap the plate first. The put a bolt in it. With the bolt sticking out of the inside, I will thread the nut on. Then weld it. That way the threads will still line up.

May I ask for one more measurement? I could probably do it myself. But since the plug is on the back it would be hard to get a perfect measurement. But I was wondering if you could give me the location of the fill plug? Since my plug maybe a different size, I will just need to the bottom of the hole(on the plug). Not the center. Also maybe you could take the measurement from a flange hole? Like the one in this picture.

Thanx again trojan.

P.s. I probably won't mess with it this weekend. So whenever you get a chance.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:11 PM   #2409
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Re: what it takes...

The fill hole center is about 3 3/4" down from the top edge of the cover. It is 4" over from the passenger's side of the cover. LPW used a 3/8" pipe plug for the fill hole and a 1/4" pipe plug for the drain.

Regroup, I didn't read your request close enough give me a minute.

The fill hole bottom is 4" down from the top edge of the cover.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:19 PM   #2410
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no problem. the reason i need from the flange hole is because my outside diameter of the cover maybe a hair different than yours or stock. close but slightly different.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:27 PM   #2411
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no problem. the reason i need from the flange hole is because my outside diameter of the cover maybe a hair different than yours or stock. close but slightly different.
Oh I see now.
Take 1/2" (center of cover mounting hole) off of the top measurement and 3/8" off the side measurement.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:33 PM   #2412
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Oh I see now.
Take 1/2" (center of cover mounting hole) off of the top measurement and 3/8" off the side measurement.
somjust to be sure we are on same page. from the center of top set of holes on flange, to the center of the fill plug would be 3 1/4"? i just want to be sure. and i really appreciate it. this is some good engineering teamwork.

the side measurements shouldnt matter to much. also if you think of any decorative ideas let me know. i have a plasma at work. and i have a great burning hand.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:46 PM   #2413
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somjust to be sure we are on same page. from the center of top set of holes on flange, to the center of the fill plug would be 3 1/4"? i just want to be sure. and i really appreciate it. this is some good engineering teamwork.

the side measurements shouldnt matter to much. also if you think of any decorative ideas let me know. i have a plasma at work. and i have a great burning hand.
No, I measured to the bottom of the fill/check hole from the top edge, which was 4". Take off 1/2" to measure from the center of the mounting hole to the bottom of the fill/check hole, which leaves you a measurement of 3 1/2".


On the side I had measured from the edge to the center of the fill/check hole, which was 4". Take off 3/8" leaves you with a measurement of 3 5/8" from the center of a side hole to the center of the fill/check hole.


Take that Plasma and cut out a running Mustang with tabs on the ends of it to use as the center connecting plate for your tube supports. Paint it a contrasting color and it will look good I think.
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:07 PM   #2414
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Ok I think I got you now. I'm gonna draw a little pic just to verify. I would just hate to mess it up.
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:12 PM   #2415
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Derp...
Your gonna make me hafta watch office space again.
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