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Old 09-22-2012, 02:49 PM   #2591
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Looks good dream!
thanx bud!
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:19 AM   #2592
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Re: What it takes for forced induction and much more...

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Machining done
Looks good, much better than my limited surfacing procedures nowadays.


I'm stuck using a 6"x48" belt sander and just doing the best I can now.
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:26 AM   #2593
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Looks good, much better than my limited surfacing procedures nowadays.

I'm stuck using a 6"x48" belt sander and just doing the best I can now.
thanx. im glad you talked me into doing that. because it was way out. i tacked the flange down to a heavy plate for the majority of the welding, but it still pulled all over the place. it was hard to machine though after all the heat the flange had encountered between the plasma and welder.
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:45 AM   #2594
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Re: What it takes for forced induction and much more...

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thanx. im glad you talked me into doing that. because it was way out. i tacked the flange down to a heavy plate for the majority of the welding, but it still pulled all over the place. it was hard to machine though after all the heat the flange had encountered between the plasma and welder.
Yeah, that always seems to be the case when welding, and you probably had a lot of hard and soft spots that made machining more difficult, but it's flat now and will seal up better without warping the cast iron center section out of shape.
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:46 AM   #2595
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Yeah, that always seems to be the case when welding, and you probably had a lot of hard and soft spots that made machining more difficult, but it's flat now and will seal up better without warping the cast iron center section out of shape.
yup. exactly.
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:46 PM   #2596
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i should have the cover done tomorow. all i have to do is weld in the bung holes . and i already have the holes for them in it.

but i forgot to mention that my guy with the cnc couldnt make my decorative piece. they are only allowed to cut pre-programmed items. i also decided that i dont want to do this anyways because the weight is already more than i would like. maybe i will just add a sticker or something.

so my next question is : should i paint the inside? imo i dont think it needs it because with all the oil it should never rust.
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:16 PM   #2597
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i should have the cover done tomorow. all i have to do is weld in the bung holes . and i already have the holes for them in it.

but i forgot to mention that my guy with the cnc couldnt make my decorative piece. they are only allowed to cut pre-programmed items. i also decided that i dont want to do this anyways because the weight is already more than i would like. maybe i will just add a sticker or something.

so my next question is : should i paint the inside? imo i dont think it needs it because with all the oil it should never rust.
A good coat of Glyptal will help the oil return to the bottom quicker, but it is such a small area that is neglible and probably not worth the cost of the paint and time. Inside a block, yes, here not so much.

To bad about the decoration, it would have been cool.
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:19 PM   #2598
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whats glyptal?
so you wouldnt do anything to the inside? leave it bare steel? i am definitly trying to keep budget down. right now budget is at 25$ lol
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:26 PM   #2599
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whats glyptal?
so you wouldnt do anything to the inside? leave it bare steel? i am definitly trying to keep budget down. right now budget is at 25$ lol
Glyptal is a special paint used on the insides of engines.


GLYPTAL


Bare steel should be just fine. Enough lube will splash around to keep it from rusting, I should think.
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:31 PM   #2600
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Glyptal is a special paint used on the insides of engines.

GLYPTAL

Bare steel should be just fine. Enough lube will splash around to keep it from rusting, I should think.
That's what I was thinking it was but wasn't sure.

I think it will be ok to.
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:13 AM   #2601
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Last fab pic.
She's ready for paint!
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:19 AM   #2602
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Nice! What color?
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:25 AM   #2603
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Nice! What color?
I was thinking just black. I do have a can of ford blue in the garage. Any thoughts on that?

At work we have cases of 75/90 weight full synthetic Lucas gear oil that suppose to already have friction modifier in it. I can get it really cheap because we buy bulk at discount. Do I still need the 4 oz friction modifier? I know some people like to add it to be sure.
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:28 AM   #2604
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Oh I just realized I still have some of that duplicolor natural engine enamel. It's the same stuff I did my accessory brackets with. Look at my albums to see if needed. What about that?
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:34 AM   #2605
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Last fab pic.
She's ready for paint!
Looks professional! Even art-like. Art with muscle.
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:35 AM   #2606
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Thanx guys!
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:45 AM   #2607
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Originally Posted by dreamstang
Last fab pic.
She's ready for paint!
Awesome!...ya know I'd like to say satin black BUT!...I think a good clear coat would keep it mean lookin!
If you could paint the rear axle flat, satin, gloss whatever and just have the cover lookin steel?..

---------- Post added at 06:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:44 AM ----------

Ps...nice bung holes
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:59 AM   #2608
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Awesome!...ya know I'd like to say satin black BUT!...I think a good clear coat would keep it mean lookin!
If you could paint the rear axle flat, satin, gloss whatever and just have the cover lookin steel?..

---------- Post added at 06:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:44 AM ----------

Ps...nice bung holes
Yeah the natural paint I have looks like aluminum. Maybe if I did that and painted the axle housing gloss black. But I probably not gonna paint the housing yet. I still might be able to get to the track. I hear we are gonna hit the 80s again next week!

I knew you like my bung holes. Lol
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:15 AM   #2609
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Yeah the natural paint I have looks like aluminum. Maybe if I did that and painted the axle housing gloss black. But I probably not gonna paint the housing yet. I still might be able to get to the track. I hear we are gonna hit the 80s again next week!

I knew you like my bung holes. Lol
Like silvery fake aluminum pukey chrome paint?...I was thinkin I like the way it looks now and a true clear coat would make it look tits!!

---------- Post added at 07:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:14 AM ----------

Ps.. You are bungholio!
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:21 AM   #2610
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Like silvery fake aluminum pukey chrome paint?...I was thinkin I like the way it looks now and a true clear coat would make it look tits!!

---------- Post added at 07:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:14 AM ----------

Ps.. You are bungholio!
But it needs a primer on it or the clear won't stay.
Pukey? Lol
Like this....
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:44 AM   #2611
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Lol--->Bungholio Haven't heard that one in a while.
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:48 PM   #2612
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Last fab pic.
She's ready for paint!
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang View Post
I was thinking just black. I do have a can of ford blue in the garage. Any thoughts on that?

At work we have cases of 75/90 weight full synthetic Lucas gear oil that suppose to already have friction modifier in it. I can get it really cheap because we buy bulk at discount. Do I still need the 4 oz friction modifier? I know some people like to add it to be sure.
Looks great!

Krylon Dull Aluminum is the best looking aluminum finish out of a spray can that I know of. A couple of coats of that and some carefully applied clear will make it look almost like the cover in the picture.
I say "carefully applied clear" because if it runs it messes up the aluminum finish.


If the Lucas has the friction modifier it should be ok without adding more. At worst if you hear it popping on turns or when backing up, then you could add some more.
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:04 PM   #2613
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cool, thanx man!
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:13 PM   #2614
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I'm ready to see it in action can you mount the go pro to watch it when you are done??
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:21 PM   #2615
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I'm ready to see it in action can you mount the go pro to watch it when you are done??
lol. it wont be doing a whole lot! just sitting there bolted on.
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:23 PM   #2616
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But give a couple hard pulls to prove it's strength.. It just would be a nice ending to the project
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:33 PM   #2617
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But give a couple hard pulls to prove it's strength.. It just would be a nice ending to the project
very true. i will definitly get something up. but i wont have the bracing part done for a while yet. but, you know me. i take lots of pics and updates.
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Old 09-28-2012, 08:31 PM   #2618
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So I thought we had Lucas synthetic gear oil. But I was mistaken because there was a box of Lucas right next to it. Doh! But anyways our mechanic hooked me up. I am just a little unsure. He gave me excel high performance synthetic 75w-90.

He told me that I don't need friction modifier because its already in it. But I don't see anything on it that says that. they use this in our pretty good size fleet of (overloaded) 1 ton Chevy trucks. What you guys think?

P.s. I never heard of this brand and couldnt find much info on it. But atleast its made in the USA!
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Old 09-28-2012, 08:56 PM   #2619
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I found this online:

Quote:
XCEL Energy Conserving Synthetic High Performance GL-5 75W-90 Gear Oil is the ultimate
gear oil system meeting all OEM performance targets and provides maximum protection for all gear
sets as well as helping to improve fuel economy while promoting longer gear life. Xcel Energy
Conserving Synthetic High Performance GL-5 Gear Oil is a 100% synthetic base oil product coupled
with a robust additive system and an improved viscosity modifier to give you a high viscosity index,
low pour-point, synthetic gear oil providing reduced friction, fuel savings, better low temperature startup protection and longer life than most conventional gear oils. This superior high performance gear
oil is formulated to meet the requirements of the American Petroleum Institute’s (API) Service
Classification GL-5 and MT-1; MIL-PRF-2105E; SAE J-2360: Dana Corp. (including Eaton Axles);
Eaton 750,000 mile warranty coverage and 500,000 mile oil drain intervals capabilities; General
Electric D 50E9C; (P&H) 474; Mack Truck GO-J Plus; ArvinMeritor (including former Rockwell axels)
and Rockwell International 0-76-E.
XCEL Multipurpose High Performance GL-5 Gear Oils are high performance gear oils that meet
the latest specifications for today's high performance automobiles, trucks and industrial applications.
These oils are manufactured to meet extreme pressure (EP) applications and are designed to resist
oxidation and allow for longer oil change intervals. These gear oils are recommended for use in
differentials, including most limited slip differentials, transmissions, transfer cases, planetary and
industrial gear boxes where extreme pressure lubricants are required. These oils meet or exceed the
recommendations for API GL-5 and API MT-1; MIL-L-2105E (MILPRF 2105E) and Mack GO-J Plus.

I think it will be ok. It does not say that it has the friction modifier, but as a synthetic it may not need it.
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:00 PM   #2620
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I found this online:

I think it will be ok. It does not say that it has the friction modifier, but as a synthetic it may not need it.
sweet thanx. it says similar to that on the bottle but just alot shorter. if it does half what it says, it should work great! haha
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:21 PM   #2621
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Bammm!
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:12 PM   #2622
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Bammm!
Fkn slick!
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Old 09-29-2012, 07:29 PM   #2623
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Bammm!
So when can we expect ours. Lol looks good.
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Old 09-29-2012, 07:43 PM   #2624
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How many hours did it take to fab up that kick @ss cover?
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Old 09-29-2012, 07:52 PM   #2625
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Bammm!
I HATE IT!!...you're not gunna wanna use that piece a junk on yr nice car!
But I do know a guy the has an o'l beater that that might look ok on.
So if you could just go ahead and send that to my place that would be great
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