I know to put a forced induction system on efi takes alot of work.tune,upgraded fuel and ignition systems,etc..what exactly does it take to do this on a carbed motor?my car has been converted to carb and this is a future plan.I plan on a low boost system.bigger carb? Ignition amplifier?turbos require adapter boxes?
I know to put a forced induction system on efi takes alot of work.tune,upgraded fuel and ignition systems,etc..what exactly does it take to do this on a carbed motor?my car has been converted to carb and this is a future plan.I plan on a low boost system.bigger carb? Ignition amplifier?turbos require adapter boxes?
It will be about the same, but your tuning will be done manually with a carb and it will require some specialized components.
A carb hat or igloo, a blow through carb will be needed with the hat.
An ignition amplifier is always a good idea, as are special irridium fine tip spark plugs to ensure mixture ignition.
You will also have to periodically retune for temperature and humidity changes to keep your engine safe.
To me a carbed engine is much more difficult to tune and maintain than an EFI engine.
It will be about the same, but your tuning will be done manually with a carb and it will require some specialized components.
A carb hat or igloo, a blow through carb will be needed with the hat.
An ignition amplifier is always a good idea, as are special irridium fine tip spark plugs to ensure mixture ignition.
You will also have to periodically retune for temperature and humidity changes to keep your engine safe.
To me a carbed engine is much more difficult to tune and maintain than an EFI engine.
I agree,,fuel injection is pretty much done by the computer after its set up..I havent messed with a carb in forever,,I wish everything was fuel injected
---------- Post added at 05:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:27 PM ----------
Not working anywhere at the moment. Recovering from 3 crushed disks in my neck. Major surgery, major pain and a PITA.
The nice people I worked for, for 26 years terminated me after I got hurt on the job claiming "workforce reduction".
P.S. They only dream and wish I was that stupid. :lmao:
I know the pain ,i had 2 disks go out on me,,They fused 5,,but it always hurts,,like a toothache,,even after 7 years,,i guess because of the screws or rods..I heard the neck heals pretty good in mosyt cases though..good luck
What do you use to make sure its tuned properly? Air fuel gauge?
---------- Post added at 02:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:01 PM ----------
I meant staying tuned.
I've seen blowers that the carb sits on top.they probably require a cowl hood.but that's fine.I still believe they require special carbs but not blow bys.slowstang posted a really nice one before but I can't seem to find it.
What do you use to make sure its tuned properly? Air fuel gauge?
---------- Post added at 02:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:01 PM ----------
I meant staying tuned.
I've seen blowers that the carb sits on top.they probably require a cowl hood.but that's fine.I still believe they require special carbs but not blow bys.slowstang posted a really nice one before but I can't seem to find it.
Sorry, I dropped out on you. Took some pain meds and conked out.
Proper tuning will require that you learn how to read your spark plugs.
You can use a wide band A/F Gauge to help tune too. - Innovate
You will need to learn how to rejet the carb and work with the air bleeds to tune the mixture.
I would buy a book by Alex Warlordy on "How to Supertune Holley Carburetors". I bought one years ago and it was instrumental in learning how to tune a Holley carb for me.
If you go with a roots style blower you will be able to use a regular "draw through" carburetor.
If you go with a centrifugal blower or turbo you will have to use a hat & "blow through" carb or an igloo and a regular carb. The "igloo" completely surrounds and pressurizes the entire carb negating the need for a special carburetor.
It will be about the same, but your tuning will be done manually with a carb and it will require some specialized components.
A carb hat or igloo, a blow through carb will be needed with the hat.
An ignition amplifier is always a good idea, as are special irridium fine tip spark plugs to ensure mixture ignition.
You will also have to periodically retune for temperature and humidity changes to keep your engine safe.
To me a carbed engine is much more difficult to tune and maintain than an EFI engine.
So essentially depending on the weather if not tuned properly you run the risk of damaging your engine? I live in Michigan and our weather is all over the place during the summer months. So potentially if I did a TC or SC with a carb setup I would need to make sure it's tuned properly for that day?
Yes. Altitude, temperature and humidity changes will affect the tune.
Sometimes with devastating consequences.
Tune for each day? No, but you need to keep an eye on your A/F ratio and listen for detonation. It is always better to be a bit rich on the fuel mixture than lean. Lean leads to more power, but also more heat and detonation which are engine killers.
Basically if it isn't running right don't "stand on it" to "clear it out" as I have seen so many misguided wingnuts do. Check and verify your tune instead and make sure it is up to par.
Common sense will save you lots of headaches and dollars. :good:
Sorry, I dropped out on you. Took some pain meds and conked out.
Proper tuning will require that you learn how to read your spark plugs.
You can use a wide band A/F Gauge to help tune too. - Innovate
You will need to learn how to rejet the carb and work with the air bleeds to tune the mixture.
I would buy a book by Alex Warlordy on "How to Supertune Holley Carburetors". I bought one years ago and it was instrumental in learning how to tune a Holley carb for me.
If you go with a roots style blower you will be able to use a regular "draw through" carburetor.
If you go with a centrifugal blower or turbo you will have to use a hat & "blow through" carb or an igloo and a regular carb. The "igloo" completely surrounds and pressurizes the entire carb negating the need for a special carburetor.
ill get the book first thing.
better fuel pump 130-200 gph
colder spark plugs
bigger carb ,maybe 750 cfm
msd streetfire box .its not the best one but only 130$ should be efficient for me
do i need a better distributer also?
now the gauges you listed,should i go with the controller or is that more for efi applications?just the a/f gauge and boost gauge is what i was thinking.
when you say read the plugs you mean looking at carbon deposits,discoloration etc.etc.?
that should be about everything i need right?
sorry for so many questions.i just want to know what im getting into, price and work.
if thats all the parts i need a little over 4000$ should do it besides what i run into during the install(always something).
i dont plan on doing this right away.i do plan maybe getting the charger at tax time and then the other parts here and there.
i greatly apreciate your help! thanx
---------- Post added at 09:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:49 AM ----------
351mustang said:
So essentially depending on the weather if not tuned properly you run the risk of damaging your engine? I live in Michigan and our weather is all over the place during the summer months. So potentially if I did a TC or SC with a carb setup I would need to make sure it's tuned properly for that day?
im not the expert,but i would think that it wouldnt need tuned daily.more less with more drastic wheather changes. i guess i mean 5 degrees isnt gonna make a difference unless you are at the track and your trying to squeeze every 10 th out you can.
ill get the book first thing.
better fuel pump 130-200 gph
colder spark plugs
bigger carb ,maybe 750 cfm
msd streetfire box .its not the best one but only 130$ should be efficient for me
do i need a better distributer also?
now the gauges you listed,should i go with the controller or is that more for efi applications?just the a/f gauge and boost gauge is what i was thinking.
when you say read the plugs you mean looking at carbon deposits,discoloration etc.etc.?
that should be about everything i need right?
sorry for so many questions.i just want to know what im getting into, price and work.
if thats all the parts i need a little over 4000$ should do it besides what i run into during the install(always something).
i dont plan on doing this right away.i do plan maybe getting the charger at tax time and then the other parts here and there.
i greatly apreciate your help! thanx
---------- Post added at 09:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:49 AM ----------
im not the expert,but i would think that it wouldnt need tuned daily.more less with more drastic wheather changes. i guess i mean 5 degrees isnt gonna make a difference unless you are at the track and your trying to squeeze every 10 th out you can.
I have always liked the idea behind roots type blowers, as they've been used for a long time. So have centrifugal type. I remember seeing an add by Paxton for centrifugal chargers for carbed motors. I think they actually offered a complete kit. Would be worth looking into.
So upon my research I have stumbled up a few questions.
I am having a little trouble finding a fuel pump that is adequate enough for my future setup.my current pump is an in tank.I can switch to an external right?and do I need an adapter or anything?
Do I need to get a low psi pump because most pumps are rated for efi high pressure?
I wanted to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.I heard that they have them with boost ports on them.would this kind just hook up the same way as a boost gauge?I assume their will be a port to hook up a gauge on the supercharger,if so chance there will only be 1 then I could use a t or y fitting to accommodate a gauge and pressure regulator?
Thanx in advance.
My 87 had a Holley 750 w/ vacuum secondaries, the guy who converted it to a carb cut the factory line at the pump and attached rubber fuel line and used the factory pump like a straw. Not sure if they did anything to the pump itself, dint think they did. Ran the line to a Holley blue fuel pump(external, mounted to the frame rail in the back. It's designed to push not pull) then all the way to under the hood to an adjustable regulator supplied with the pump. Then to a pressure gauge, to the carb. The regulator comes preset at 14 psi. You can probably tap into the stock pumps wires for power but he chose to run his own to a switch near the shifter.
My 87 had a Holley 750 w/ vacuum secondaries, the guy who converted it to a carb cut the factory line at the pump and attached rubber fuel line and used the factory pump like a straw. Not sure if they did anything to the pump itself, dint think they did. Ran the line to a Holley blue fuel pump(external, mounted to the frame rail in the back. It's designed to push not pull) then all the way to under the hood to an adjustable regulator supplied with the pump. Then to a pressure gauge, to the carb. The regulator comes preset at 14 psi. You can probably tap into the stock pumps wires for power but he chose to run his own to a switch near the shifter.
Leaving the factory pump will be a restriction.
Whether or not it is enough restriction to cause you problems may be debatable.
I would remove the pump and replace it with a pickup tube if you go with an external pump.
Don't forget the sock for the end of the tube if you do this. You don't want to ruin a new pump or clog your system with debris from the tank.
I can't remember exactly where I saw them, but there are pickup/sending unit replacements available for that purpose.
You need to contact the SC manufacturer and find out for sure what the recommended fuel flow should be so you don't starve the engine for fuel.
That would lead to a lean condition which could destroy your engine.
Anderson Ford Motorsports offers a 340 LPH, in tank fuel pump ($140), but it is high pressure for the EFI engines. I don't know if you could regulate it down for carb use or not. Might give them a call and ask about it.
That's what I don't know, if they modded the actual pump in any. I dont think they did, but I wasn't running a charger or anything either. The only thing I can see being an issue is it won't flow through the pump fast enough it could over work the pump. It's a blind shot but I don't think it'd be an issue with a carb. If you were feeding FI I'd think it'd be an issue.
Well the last thing I would want is to starve a s/c . They require a lot of fuel.they make plenty of intake fuel pumps I was just hoping to expand my choices .I need atleast 130 even 150 gph pump.
I guess if no one here knows for sure the next step would be to consult a speed shop for a ballpark on psi @ the carb and see where you stand, or ask how they get the fuel from the tank. I guess the question would be when you up grade in tank pumps do they have larger diameter tubing internally or just a stronger pump/motor?
I plan on getting a adjustable f/p regulator.it will be somewhere like 6-14 psi.I'm just not sure that I can run a 35 psi pump on a 10 psi regulator.I'm sure someone will chime in.this project is gonna be a slow one( Damn budget).that super charger requires at least 7 psi on a 130-200 gph pump.a stock pump I'm not sure but is probably in the 50- 70 gph range.
it seems that when i search for pump for my year they are rated in lph and are internal.so my thought was to search for pumps from 85 and earlier since they were carbed stock but then i only get external pumps.it is always tricky to find carbed parts for an 88 cause search results always end up with efi sruff.the biggest pumps for my year are 255lph at 45 psi but that only translates to about 56 gph or so.im sure there is one out there but my ideal find would be internal 150 gph pump.
I have downloaded the manual and contacted summit tech.I am looking to get a 150 gph pump.
---------- Post added at 08:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:30 AM ----------
A 355 lph is equivalent to less than 100gph. I can find external pumps all day w/ low psi and high gph.that is gonna be my best route I believe.if you remember where you saw this kit let me know.I know it can be done without but I would like to do it nice.thanx
I have downloaded the manual and contacted summit tech.I am looking to get a 150 gph pump.
---------- Post added at 08:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:30 AM ----------
A 355 lph is equivalent to less than 100gph. I can find external pumps all day w/ low psi and high gph.that is gonna be my best route I believe.if you remember where you saw this kit let me know.I know it can be done without but I would like to do it nice.thanx
Yes, that's why I showed LPH and GPH.
On a carbed car you also have to worry about getting the GPH you need past the needle and seat into the fuel bowl and through the jets into the engine.
It is definitely preferrable to go a little large on fuel supply.
Too much will drown out an engine and make it black smoke which is easy to cure. An engine can withstand this for a while. It is not good for it, but it is not an engine killer right away.
Too little will kill your engine in short order, especially at WOT.
If you ever hear a racer talk about "torching" or "burning" a piston, it usually means their fuel supply/mixture went lean.
Ok so I called tech again and if use a high psi pump I just need return lines.he told me not to use a regulator w/ boost port.he also recommend an aeromotive fuel pump 140gph .he said It is a little big but will work great with regulator.they also sell the pick up tubes you were talking about.I can also go a little smaller on the pump and won't need a regulator.
Not working anywhere at the moment. Recovering from 3 crushed disks in my neck. Major surgery, major pain and a PITA.
The nice people I worked for, for 26 years terminated me after I got hurt on the job claiming "workforce reduction".
P.S. They only dream and wish I was that stupid. :lmao:
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