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Old 12-02-2011, 06:10 PM   #36
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So u can tell the difference pretty good?i know when I did mine it was like night and day.
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:39 PM   #37
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Remember what Trojan Horse said about the temperature. The cold weather will help your car not detonate but when it is hot out or your engine gets heat soaked from sitting in traffic it is more likely to ping when under a load
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:56 PM   #38
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Re: helps and tips??

well i guess
they just put anybody with no field exp on the phone thanks for letting me know on the msd now i know
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:32 PM   #39
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Yeah bro it woke it up def especially acceleration. We r having highs of 40s and lows in the teens in NC so I'm sure it will be fine for a while.
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:10 AM   #40
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Re: helps and tips??

Flat Black GT, was it easy to do and how much was the timing light? Good job on doing the advance,

I found out today ill be home about a week before christmas from this deployment so trying to get a list of things to do to the stang once i get home. Besides CAI, advancing the timing, what are some cheap mods i can do to gain either power or handling looking for cheap things to do.
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:42 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kid_kash_00
well i guess
they just put anybody with no field exp on the phone thanks for letting me know on the msd now i know
You know I have a blaster coil on mine right? It didn't melt the cheap stock wires I had before the msd set. Lol

---------- Post added at 02:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:36 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Army_Stang
Flat Black GT, was it easy to do and how much was the timing light? Good job on doing the advance,

I found out today ill be home about a week before christmas from this deployment so trying to get a list of things to do to the stang once i get home. Besides CAI, advancing the timing, what are some cheap mods i can do to gain either power or handling looking for cheap things to do.
It's easier than ya think, I got my timing light from autozone for $40. It's plain and cheap but gets the job done.
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:44 AM   #42
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Other things to try for power is a set of under drive pullies, a larger mass air meter, smog pump delete if you don't have emissions test in your area, exhaust such as cat back or h or x pipe and headers. These are just a few of the things I always did when I got a stock mustang. Gears will make a big difference but it is more technical and if you don't know what you are doing, it is best to let a shop set the rear end up for you. It also costs more because of the labor fees at the shop. Aluminum driveshaft is also an easy install just remember to use a thread locker on the bolts when reinstalling them. Use a blue thread locker as it is the medium strength serviceable kind. Red will work too but will be harder to get apart next time.
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:53 AM   #43
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Re: helps and tips??

93redfox, thanks for the advice some of the things you listed the guy i bought the car from did ie smog delete, shorty headers, o/r h-pipe, flowmasters dumped(which i hate). it has 3.73 gears pro 5.0 shifter, i forget the clutch thats in it, adjustable firewall clutch cable thing, and i think thats all i cant remember.

the drive shaft is that something easy enough to do in the driveway or do i need to go and put it up on the lift?

Underdrive pulleys what do they do and will it change AC/ power steering or anything like that, also would i need to buy a new belt of any kind?

And the large mass air meter, any suggestions on type/size any specs?

thanks
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:56 AM   #44
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As far as handling the cheaper way to do it is to start changing the rubber bushings in everything to polyurethane. You can also get caster/camber plates but this will require an alignment. It is always a good idea to get an alignment after changing a lot of the front end suspension components including bushings. Changing the springs out will also dramatically improve handling. You can get a decent set of rear control arms with polyurethane bushings and it will tighten the feel of your rear end when cornering. It will also allow you to remove your quad shocks which is a weight reduction and allows for wider wheels. Quad shocks are there to help control wheel hop but the poly bushings in the new control arms will control it by themselves
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:57 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army_Stang
93redfox, thanks for the advice some of the things you listed the guy i bought the car from did ie smog delete, shorty headers, o/r h-pipe, flowmasters dumped(which i hate). it has 3.73 gears pro 5.0 shifter, i forget the clutch thats in it, adjustable firewall clutch cable thing, and i think thats all i cant remember.

the drive shaft is that something easy enough to do in the driveway or do i need to go and put it up on the lift?

Underdrive pulleys what do they do and will it change AC/ power steering or anything like that, also would i need to buy a new belt of any kind?

And the large mass air meter, any suggestions on type/size any specs?

thanks
Driveshaft is a piece of cake. 4 bolts and slides right out.
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Old 12-03-2011, 12:11 PM   #46
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Re: helps and tips??

okay im going to start buying suspension parts here soon to piece everything i might "need"/want. i was looking at getting a complete bushings kit for i think 150-175 by the sounds of it it sounds worth it from what your saying. Heres what im thinking of buying and doing all at once. Lowering springs, shocks front and rear, upper and lower control arms ?(the once on ebay for a set of four for 130 are they worth it of knock offs) caster chamber plates anything else i can do while ill have it apart? or should get for suspension?

i just bought a alm. drive shaft form a guy on my home town forum for 100 bucks with u-bolt and bolts.......

question subframe connectors are they bolt on or weld on?

thanks for the advice and help guys
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Old 12-03-2011, 12:53 PM   #47
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The driveshaft can be done in your driveway by jacking the back of your car up and put jack stands on your axle tubes to hold it safely. Chock the front wheels forward and back (you can never be too safe when working under a car) and you should be able to get to two bolts at a time. Put your transmission in neutral and rotate your back wheel to spin the driveshaft to access the other two. The bolts are 12mm twelve point. You can use a regular box end wrench to remove them. They are usually pretty tight so you may need to have a long wrench for leverage or slide a pipe over a smaller wrench for added leverage. If you know how to use the double wrench trick it works also but watch your knuckles. It may require you to take your h-pipe off depending on where the cross tube is as it will keep you from letting the driveshaft down to clear the rear
end when you slide it back and out of the tranny. Install the new one in the same way.

As far as under drive pullies yes you will most likely need a diff belt and your ac may not blow quite as cold under idle and your alternator might not have the same output at idle but that is the only drawback. They make special pully kits that wont affect the alternator as much by putting a smaller pulley on the alternator which will speed it back up.

Under drive pullies give you power by slowing down all your belt driven accessories which puts less load on your engine. It theoretically makes it easier for the crank to drive everything by changing the pulley ratio similar to how lower rear gears make it easier to accelerate.

I am not as familiar with 94/95 mass air meters but I am pretty sure you have a 70mm maf which isn't a huge restriction but you can go to an 80mm abaco (very accurate) or a pro-m or pmas 80mm. Just make sure whichever you get is calibrated for your injector size which should be 19lbs if they are stock. I think bbk makes one too and they make quality stuff. Just search on eBay and you can get a good deal on one.

---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:39 PM ----------

The Granatelli Motorsports ones on eBay are good for the money but I'm not sure I would take chances on the others. I have no experience with them. The other plans you have mentioned sound great.

---------- Post added at 01:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------

Some subframe connectors can be bolted and/or welded but it is always better to weld them. You may also look into a strut tower brace for added stiffness in the front.

---------- Post added at 01:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:49 PM ----------

Are you sure the driveshaft
Is for your year mustang? I don't recall ours having u-bolts. It should be a ford racing driveshaft most likely and is held in with four regular bolts.
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:05 PM   #48
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Re: helps and tips??

umm typed it wrong sorry good u joints im retarded. im clearifing it with him before i put 50 down to hold it.

thanks for all your help man it means alot since im new to the gt/5.0 world
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:07 PM   #49
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No problem I was new once and learned most the hard way. Glad I could help
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:13 PM   #50
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Re: helps and tips??

another ebay question any of the springs on there for 99 bucks worth a damn or save my money?
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:15 PM   #51
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I'm not sure if they are good or not never used them. Are they name brand?
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:25 PM   #52
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Re: helps and tips??

found eibach for 84.99 thats the only name i have seen before

Flat Black GT sorry for jacking your thread brother
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:27 PM   #53
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Eibach, H&R, Tein, Ford Racing are
good ones that come to mind but they are more expensive unless you find a deal most from any mustang aftermarket company are good like American Muscle, Latemodel Restoration Supply, CJ Pony Parts, etc look in a mustang mag for ads almost all sell quality stuff

---------- Post added at 02:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:26 PM ----------

That's a good price for the eibachs I wouldn't hesitate to get them. They are one of the best in the industry
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:28 PM   #54
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I have CJ Pony lowering springs and they ride very nice! I estimate 1.5"-2.0" drop. I believe they can be had for about $130. My advise is to steer away from no name eBay parts. You'll do much better to price new brand name parts and try to find good clean used parts of brand name on eBay. With performance parts you almost always get what you pay for, even if the off brand performs they usually don't last. I've read countless articles in both car and motorcycle mags where they do dyno and long term tests and usually it's the quality that suffers the most with off brand parts.
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:45 PM   #55
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If your putting in new springs drop the extra $30 and get new spring isolators. Mine were dry rotted and worn out.
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Old 12-03-2011, 04:01 PM   #56
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Re: helps and tips??

Quote:
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If your putting in new springs drop the extra $30 and get new spring isolators. Mine were dry rotted and worn out.
thanks for the heads up
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Old 12-03-2011, 04:51 PM   #57
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Army_stang - no worries bro I'm getting a lot of useful info from this. I've had my stang for a while but I'm new to the modding world myself. I have a ? When installing lowering springs should I change the balljoints as well? I kno itll put more stress on them when lowering the car.. also the smog pump delete .. can I run a smaller belt and take the pump off or should I buy the eliminator kit??
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Old 12-03-2011, 04:56 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLAT BLACK GT
Army_stang - no worries bro I'm getting a lot of useful info from this. I've had my stang for a while but I'm new to the modding world myself. I have a ? When installing lowering springs should I change the balljoints as well? I kno itll put more stress on them when lowering the car.. also the smog pump delete .. can I run a smaller belt and take the pump off or should I buy the eliminator kit??
You can run a smaller belt to bypass the smog pump. If your ball joints are close to being worn out I would go ahead and change them.
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:19 PM   #59
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If your ball joints are fine now then they will be fine after you lower it. It doesn't put any more stress on them it just changes the angle of your control arms, tie rods, and you won't be able to tell the diff when it comes to the ball joints.

What you may want to do is get a bump steer kit which replaces your tie rod ends with adjustable ones to get the correct angle back for the tie rods. Note the angle of your tie rods before you lower it then try to duplicate that angle in relation to the rack and pinion after you lower it. The kit will come with several spacers to get the angle right.

With your smog pump you can take it off and run a shorter belt you don't need the eliminator pully.

---------- Post added at 06:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:14 PM ----------

If you have a high mileage car you may want to get new ball joints but they usually last a long time if greased regularly. It is easier to change them while it is apart you are correct.
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Old 12-04-2011, 02:57 PM   #60
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Does anybody kno Wat size belt to get?

---------- Post added at 03:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:56 PM ----------

And in taking the smog pump off do I have to do anything else?
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:54 PM   #61
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You have to plug the tube coming from your exhaust to the pump and the tube coming from the back of your heads
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:23 PM   #62
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Sorry I don't know off of the top of my head the length but you can route the current belt and pinch the excess to get a rough idea
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:07 PM   #63
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Ok this might sound dumb but Wat do I use to plug them??
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:15 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93redfox
Sorry I don't know off of the top of my head the length but you can route the current belt and pinch the excess to get a rough idea
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:03 AM   #65
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@mystang50 where did you find the image of belt routing?

---------- Post added at 10:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:54 AM ----------

You can use what they call thermactor plugs to plug the back of your heads just google mustang thermactor plug and you will find them and as for the tube coming from your exhaust you can have it welded up or go the shade tree route and put a piece of hose on it and clamp a bolt or something in the open end down under the car. Ive seen it done both ways lol. You just want it to not become an annoying exhaust leak.
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Old 12-06-2011, 03:55 PM   #66
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Re: helps and tips??

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Ok this might sound dumb but Wat do I use to plug them??
The holes in the heads can be plugged with two 5/8" x 11 thd short bolts.
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:36 PM   #67
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Re: helps and tips??

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@mystang50 where did you find the image of belt routing?

---------- Post added at 10:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:54 AM ----------

You can use what they call thermactor plugs to plug the back of your heads just google mustang thermactor plug and you will find them and as for the tube coming from your exhaust you can have it welded up or go the shade tree route and put a piece of hose on it and clamp a bolt or something in the open end down under the car. Ive seen it done both ways lol. You just want it to not become an annoying exhaust leak.
hahaha srry cant remember...

jus had it on my phone ill look it up again...
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Old 12-06-2011, 06:02 PM   #68
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