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Old 12-15-2011, 07:48 PM   #1
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Subframe Connector Install

I am trying to install upr subframe connectors on my 92 gt. I think I am gonna have to do a little bending to get them to fit the way I want them to.
Got a few questions. Is the connector suppose to lay flat on the bottom of the front sub frame? Mine are touching in the front but where the come off the front sub frame it is probably about 1/2" off. What is the best way to bend the square tubing? Any help would be great and some pics of yours installed would be awesome. Thanks.
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:40 PM   #2
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Re: Subframe Connector Install

Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis B View Post
I am trying to install upr subframe connectors on my 92 gt. I think I am gonna have to do a little bending to get them to fit the way I want them to.
Got a few questions. Is the connector suppose to lay flat on the bottom of the front sub frame? Mine are touching in the front but where the come off the front sub frame it is probably about 1/2" off. What is the best way to bend the square tubing? Any help would be great and some pics of yours installed would be awesome. Thanks.
They should fit flat on the subframe, then be bent to fit up against the floor pans. If not, then they are not made correctly and I'd return them.

If you want to bend them about the only way to do so is to dimple the center, inside of where you want to bend with a hammer and a dull chisel or punch, then use a vise or some way to hold one end while applying force to the other in the direction you want to bend it. Once you have the bend at the angle you need, you will have to fit and weld a plate over the dimpled area to strengthen it back up.
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:29 AM   #3
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Ahh the FOX. I can't speak of UPR's specifically but my Maximum Motorsports connectors needed a little massaging and I believe the instructions made mention of this. Unfortunately our foxbodies are no longer arrow straight and perfect. If your car maintains an alignment as it sits then I think if you have the resources I would just build up the area of the gap with steel plate. Trojan makes a good modification point that you will need to strengthen any dimple or crease you put in the connector. However if the crease is facing the floorpan you will have plate steel against the floorpan thereby creating a gap again, this is why I would suggest either filling in the gap with plate steel or as Trojan suggested return for a different set or going with another manufacturer. Mine incidentally need a slight bend upwards in the front which I corrected by placing the connector in position with bottle jacks then applying enough pressure not to lift the car but to only take up the variance. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-16-2011, 03:49 AM   #4
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Re: Subframe Connector Install

Something I forgot.
The car should be as level as possible when installing the sub-frame connectors. Otherwise it could conform to how it is setting during installation and stay tweaked that way.

P.S. The plate for the dimples should only be 1/16" to 1/8" thick at the max, so I don't think it would cause any issues. There are bumps and lumps in the floorboards anyways so perfectly flat against them is just not attainable in even the best scenario.
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Old 12-16-2011, 03:59 AM   #5
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lol, Trojan I was just about to type that out that it needed to be as level as possible. VERY important detail!
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Old 12-16-2011, 04:24 AM   #6
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From the way it looks I need to bend it a little more where it is already bent. With it being square tubing and already started a bend can I het a torch and heat it a little and bend it? I don't need that much. I have never tried to bend square tubing so I don't know of I could just heat it since the bend is already started.

---------- Post added at 10:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:18 AM ----------

Also I have the car pretty straight. I have the front tired on the small drive on ramp and the back I have on jack stands. Will this be ok? Is there anywhere that I measure to make sure the car is level. I want this done right.
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:11 AM   #7
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On the filling the gab with plate. Would I need to get a full piece the length that I need or can I just put 3" pieces every 6-8" and them weld it in? I know that would leave gaps between the connector and subframe but would it be ok? I won't be ordering anything from upr again.
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:02 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis B
From the way it looks I need to bend it a little more where it is already bent. With it being square tubing and already started a bend can I het a torch and heat it a little and bend it? I don't need that much. I have never tried to bend square tubing so I don't know of I could just heat it since the bend is already started.

---------- Post added at 10:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:18 AM ----------

Also I have the car pretty straight. I have the front tired on the small drive on ramp and the back I have on jack stands. Will this be ok? Is there anywhere that I measure to make sure the car is level. I want this done right.
When doing subframes u want all 4 tires on a level ground or a lift that keeps the car sitting on its tires. Where are you're rear jack stands holding the car up from?
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:15 AM   #9
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The jack stands r on the axle tube. About maybe 3" from the tire.
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis B
The jack stands r on the axle tube. About maybe 3" from the tire.
When I had mine installed the car was on a lift that car sits on its wheels. I used maximum motorsports full length weld on subframes with seat support and they fit perfectly with no mods.
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:48 AM   #11
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MM is what I should have gotten. I just got a good deal on the upr and they had the torque box reinforcement with it. I should have just spent the extra money. I haven't ever heard a bad thing about MM. Live and learn I guess. It just sucks that I am gonna have to do some bending on it. I even called UPR and they said that my cat must not be straight because they form the connectors to factory spec. I think they r full of it.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:27 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis B
MM is what I should have gotten. I just got a good deal on the upr and they had the torque box reinforcement with it. I should have just spent the extra money. I haven't ever heard a bad thing about MM. Live and learn I guess. It just sucks that I am gonna have to do some bending on it. I even called UPR and they said that my cat must not be straight because they form the connectors to factory spec. I think they r full of it.
I forgot to mention M.M also has torque box reinforcement. It could be a possibility the car is not perfectly straight. Have you been drag racing with slicks on your vehicle with no connectors? How much power u making to the wheels?
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:03 AM   #13
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As far as I know it has not been drag racing. It is a stock motor with a little improvements. Under drive pulleys, exhaust, and the guy said the stock intake and heads were ported. But who knows if that is true. I called upr again and they want me to send them a pic of the frames on the car. Maybe they will work something out. The car has not been wrecked so i am pretty sure everything underneath should be straight. Has anybody else had to bend their connectors to get them straight?
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:08 PM   #14
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Re: Subframe Connector Install

Here's an article that will help you.
Notice in picture #9 & #10 the plate welded over the bend on the right side of the picture.

Mustang Subframe Installation
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