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Old 02-14-2012, 10:32 PM   #1
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rear main 89 5.0

First off has anyone ever changed the rear main and does it require a special tool? I'm pretty sure mine is leaking and I know when replacing the rear main on a cat tractor diesel engine a special tool was needed.

Also these engines aren't difficult to pull are they?

Finally besides the rear main I will change out the oil pan basket. Anything else I should check while the engine is out?
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:14 PM   #2
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There pretty simple pull out and tap back in. While it's out I'd check all the main bears and rod bearing to check for any wear. And change front seal. Since it is out already.

---------- Post added at 11:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:12 PM ----------

And not sure which seal you have some are 2 piece rear main some are one peice not sure which years they changed but either way pretty simple once eng is out and oil pan is off
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Old 02-15-2012, 12:09 AM   #3
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Re: rear main 89 5.0

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Originally Posted by jacob.a.gasparp View Post
First off has anyone ever changed the rear main and does it require a special tool? I'm pretty sure mine is leaking and I know when replacing the rear main on a cat tractor diesel engine a special tool was needed.

Also these engines aren't difficult to pull are they?

Finally besides the rear main I will change out the oil pan basket. Anything else I should check while the engine is out?
I believe that if your engine has not been replaced with an older one that you will have a one piece rear main seal.They are pretty easy to remove and do not require removal of the engine, just the transmission and flywheel.


Carefully drill some small holes in the metal part of the seal, 2 holes across from each other will usually work. Thread some metal screws into the holes, clamp on the screws with some vise grips and pry and pull the seal out.


To re-install the new seal, clean the opening real good, making sure to get any metal particles out (a shop vac works good for that), wipe up any oil on the block and I like to use a bit of Loctite Stud & Bearing Mount on the outer metal rim of the seal. Lube the rubber lip of the seal where it contacts the crankshaft with some engine oil or White Lithium grease, then carefully keeping the seal straight, tap it into the opening in the block, paying close attention to the rubber seal to make sure it does not roll or get pinched and that you tap in the seal as evenly and as straight as possible.


If you have to replace the oil pan gasket, you will either need to lift and support the engine high enough to remove the pan, or completely remove the engine. Use a one piece oil pan gasket to simplify the installation and be careful to not over-tighten the oil pan retaining bolts. Also use a dab of silicone in the corners of the oil pan gasket where it goes over the front cover hump and rear main bearing cap just to be sure it does not leak.


Good luck.
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:10 AM   #4
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Hey thanks for the input. it has really helped to easy my mind a little. I may still just pull the engine to make everything a little easier and also so I can clean and paint it lol.
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:45 AM   #5
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Re: rear main 89 5.0

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Hey thanks for the input. it has really helped to easy my mind a little. I may still just pull the engine to make everything a little easier and also so I can clean and paint it lol.
That's not a bad idea.
Just label your wires and hoses as you need to with masking tape and a marker and plastic bag your bolts and nuts and mark where they came from..
Makes it a lot easier to put back together.
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:07 AM   #6
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Got it thanks for the tip
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:18 PM   #7
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Hey where exactly would I hook up the chains to pull the engine out? Would I do it like I did with my powerwagon and attach them to the intake manifold where the car was except my car is efi?
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:27 PM   #8
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Re: rear main 89 5.0

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Hey where exactly would I hook up the chains to pull the engine out? Would I do it like I did with my powerwagon and attach them to the intake manifold where the car was except my car is efi?
I never liked lifting them by the intake manifolds, especially if the manifold is aluminum.
There originally were lifting hooks on each side bolted on with the exhaust manifolds.
If those are gone I would try to connect the lifting chains to the front of one head and the back of the other. There should be some 3/8", 7/16" or 1/2" threaded holes in the front and back of each head to connect to.
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:33 PM   #9
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yes...the hole that the smog tube bolts to and the ps pump hole. the factory lifting points on the side of the heads may be designed to lift with the transmission attached i think.
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:15 AM   #10
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Im cantina to drop-in She tranny then pull the motor. Will theose mounts yall are talking about still work? Also yall dont have any pics do ya?
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Old 02-16-2012, 02:42 PM   #11
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Re: rear main 89 5.0

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Im cantina to drop-in She tranny then pull the motor. Will theose mounts yall are talking about still work? Also yall dont have any pics do ya?
If you don't stay out of that "cantina" and quit messing with those "She trannies" you might never get that seal fixed.


Remember Spell Check is your friend and Auto Correct is your enemy.


The lifting hooks all look similar to these - 87-93 5.0 Engine Lifting Hooks
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:01 PM   #12
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Not joking here. The espanol autocorrect was turned on when English was turned on. Wow I could not help but laugh when I saw you post Trojan. I Ment to say I am going to drop the transmission than pull the engine with a cherry picker. I am also gonna put new engine mounts on because when I swapped out the motor in my 1980 w200 power wagon the mounts were squashed pretty bad. You think that's a good idea.
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:08 PM   #13
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Re: rear main 89 5.0

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Not joking here. The espanol autocorrect was turned on when English was turned on. Wow I could not help but laugh when I saw you post Trojan. I Ment to say I am going to drop the transmission than pull the engine with a cherry picker. I am also gonna put new engine mounts on because when I swapped out the motor in my 1980 w200 power wagon the mounts were squashed pretty bad. You think that's a good idea.
I was wondering what you might be up to.
Yeah, replace the engine mounts with some poly mounts.
They won't squash as easy and they will still isolate engine vibrations.
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:44 AM   #14
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You could always get an engine pull plate for somewhere around $50 at amazon.com and I have pull engines with aluminum intakes no problem at all
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Old 02-17-2012, 11:55 AM   #15
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I wonder if advance auto has them...... I am going there to pick up my mounts today and get working on it starting tomorrow since I have a three day weekend.
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:36 PM   #16
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Re: rear main 89 5.0

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You could always get an engine pull plate for somewhere around $50 at amazon.com and I have pull engines with aluminum intakes no problem at all
So have I a few times.
I just don't like the thought of several hundred pounds supported by small bolts, threaded into aluminum. Plus most of the aluminum intakes I have ever seen that were warped, had been used to lift the engine. Intakes were never designed with that particular application in mind, regardless of people who design and sell lifting plates for them.


Jacob, save your money. You can hack out some hooks or plates to bolt to your engine somewhere and spend that money on your car.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:08 PM   #17
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YA will do. The project starts tomorrow.

If it was the power wagon with a cast iron intake I pry would use that but alas its not.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:11 PM   #18
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Re: rear main 89 5.0

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YA will do. The project starts tomorrow.

If it was the power wagon with a cast iron intake I pry would use that but alas its not.
People do it all the time and apparently don't run into many problems with it.
I was just stating my opinion and experiences for your info, so you do as you wish.
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Old 02-17-2012, 09:19 PM   #19
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I'm actually glad you said that because I totally forgot how easily aluminium manifold tend to move until I changed out the fuel injection pump on a 6.2 l diesel in a humvee today. Oiy. Lol
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Old 02-17-2012, 09:28 PM   #20
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Re: rear main 89 5.0

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I'm actually glad you said that because I totally forgot how easily aluminium manifold tend to move until I changed out the fuel injection pump on a 6.2 l diesel in a humvee today. Oiy. Lol
If they were billet aluminum they would hold up to that much better, but the cost would be prohibitive.
Cast aluminum is relatively weak because it is porous and permeated with air bubbles, I'm sure you have seen how easy it is to break off a mounting tab or ear on some cast aluminum parts.
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:04 AM   #21
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Oh ya I have and when that happens the day becomes bad.
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