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Old 02-18-2012, 05:09 PM   #1
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HELP!!!!!

ALright Im pulling my motor and am having trouble getting the intake off. Got the bolts out and it won't release, same with throttle body. I didn't see any factory lift hooks to pull it anywhere else I can hook a chain to and be safe with the cherry pickers??? The intake is aluminum.
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Old 02-18-2012, 05:13 PM   #2
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Re: HELP!!!!!

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ALright Im pulling my motor and am having trouble getting the intake off. Got the bolts out and it won't release, same with throttle body. I didn't see any factory lift hooks to pull it anywhere else I can hook a chain to and be safe with the cherry pickers??? The intake is aluminum.


There won't be any factory lift hooks on the intake.


Upper to lower or lower to engine?
Lower to engine you can usually pop it off by carefully prying at the ends.


Throttle body, usually a couple of sharp whacks with a rubber hammer on the base will break them loose. Just don't hit them on the sides or open end.
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:08 PM   #3
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Ok so I need to get those off to undo the fuel lines right?

By lift points Im talking about brackets that were supposed to be on there I guess but I didn't see them. So I am looking for a alternate route to hook up the chains and found a bolt on the rear part of the driver cylinder head that may be able to be used but I need one spot on the front right of the engine to balance it out. Oiy. Any suggestions?
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:55 PM   #4
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Re: HELP!!!!!

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Ok so I need to get those off to undo the fuel lines right?

By lift points Im talking about brackets that were supposed to be on there I guess but I didn't see them. So I am looking for a alternate route to hook up the chains and found a bolt on the rear part of the driver cylinder head that may be able to be used but I need one spot on the front right of the engine to balance it out. Oiy. Any suggestions?


The fuel lines are connected at the back of the engine with a flexible hose.
Once you disconnect the fitting at the front and remove any wires or vacuum hoses that may be in the way and the attaching bolts, you should be able to remove the lines.


Just look at the front of the heads, you will see threaded holes in them (you may have to remove some accessories), the back of the heads should have the same holes. Just choose one in the front of one head and one in the rear of the other head attach a chain or homemade lifting eye, run a chain across the engine from the front of one head to the back of the other to help balance it and lift from the center of the chain across the engine. You may need to move the lifting point from the center to one direction or the other to help balance the engine better.
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:23 AM   #5
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Alright good input. Hopefully I will be able to figure those lines out with you information. You confirmed what I was thinking with the chain which is awesome. Thanks. I will post any other questions I have throughout the day if I need them answered.
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:54 AM   #6
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Re: HELP!!!!!

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Alright good input. Hopefully I will be able to figure those lines out with you information. You confirmed what I was thinking with the chain which is awesome. Thanks. I will post any other questions I have throughout the day if I need them answered.
You do know that you have to have a special tool to disconnect the fuel line, right?
If you have a repair manual, most of what I have told you should be in it.
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:58 PM   #7
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This came off the rear of the left cylinder head will it work to attach a chain to to pull the motor?
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:59 PM   #8
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Excuse the pic if my wife and nephew
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:15 PM   #9
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I broke my socket. But please help with my previous question
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:12 PM   #10
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Re: HELP!!!!!

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This came off the rear of the left cylinder head will it work to attach a chain to to pull the motor?
I don't have a clue as to what that is, but yes, the bolt hole it was bolted into should work just fine.


Do you want me to remove the picture of your wife and nephew?
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:19 PM   #11
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Nan
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:32 PM   #12
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Sure if you want I just accidently posted it. I got the transmission out, all the wires and hoses undone and marked, and got the struts off which is what broke my socket. I had to go to town and get some impact sockets and a propane torch to heat the nut up and break loose with a breaker bar because my electric impact would get it. The manual said they are torqued down to 200 ft lbs. Seems like a lot for those two bolts. But a special tool was need to get the lines apart and hopefully they will snap together a lot easier than they came apart.
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:42 PM   #13
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Re: HELP!!!!!

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Sure if you want I just accidently posted it. I got the transmission out, all the wires and hoses undone and marked, and got the struts off which is what broke my socket. I had to go to town and get some impact sockets and a propane torch to heat the nut up and break loose with a breaker bar because my electric impact would get it. The manual said they are torqued down to 200 ft lbs. Seems like a lot for those two bolts. But a special tool was need to get the lines apart and hopefully they will snap together a lot easier than they came apart.
Why are you taking the struts off?


Taking the fuel lines apart is easy, you just have to make sure you get the correct size tool and that it is inserted properly and far enough. When it is, the lines should pull apart easily.
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:39 AM   #14
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Ya I got the lines apart with a line spring compression tool something or another. I'm replacing the struts because they can be compressed with almost night force with one hand.
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:02 AM   #15
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Meant to say no force
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:36 AM   #16
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Re: HELP!!!!!

Ok, "May the Force be with you."
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:30 AM   #17
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Nice. Well i finally got the motor out. Where's that stamp located to tell me the year of the motor. Near where the starter was?
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:02 PM   #18
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Nice. Well i finally got the motor out. Where's that stamp located to tell me the year of the motor. Near where the starter was?
I think so.
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:12 PM   #19
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Re: HELP!!!!!

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Nice. Well i finally got the motor out. Where's that stamp located to tell me the year of the motor. Near where the starter was?
Yes it is.
The numbers are cast into the block I believe.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:28 PM   #20
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Found the casting block nymbers. It's a 87 302 if Im reading it right but what do the rest mean?
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:37 PM   #21
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Re: HELP!!!!!

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Found the casting block nymbers. It's a 87 302 if Im reading it right but what do the rest mean?
It's an 87 Tiny Engine (TE) made in California (CA).


There is a link in the Useful Info thread that deciphers casting numbers.
However, the additional info there is not going to amount to much.
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:04 PM   #22
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Te I guess stands for truck and engine, but what does the CA stand for. It seems like a lot of the Ho parts are on this motor but all I know is that the Ho intake is on it and that is all. Ugh. I am definitely not happy if this engine doesn't have the internal of the Ho too. Ugh

---------- Post added at 10:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 PM ----------

is there a way to tell what vehicle my engine came out of. It has the same firing order as my buddies 91 f150. I was looking up the spark plugs for a 87 f150 and they are still shorter than the ones I had to put in to replace the spark plugs that were in it (referring to a older post of mine).
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:25 PM   #23
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Re: HELP!!!!!

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Te I guess stands for truck and engine, but what does the CA stand for. It seems like a lot of the Ho parts are on this motor but all I know is that the Ho intake is on it and that is all. Ugh. I am definitely not happy if this engine doesn't have the internal of the Ho too. Ugh

---------- Post added at 10:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 PM ----------

is there a way to tell what vehicle my engine came out of. It has the same firing order as my buddies 91 f150. I was looking up the spark plugs for a 87 f150 and they are still shorter than the ones I had to put in to replace the spark plugs that were in it (referring to a older post of mine).
The TE just means it was engineered as a Truck Engine/Engineering block, which is not necessarily what the block was used in. That is a pretty common 5.0 HO block number.


The CA is just a revision code from what information I could find about it.
Exactly what vehicle it came out of is all but impossible to determine.
You could make a guess by tearing it down and researching part numbers for its components, but that is hardly worthwhile.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:18 AM   #24
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Is the 87 Ho firing order different from a 89 HO firing order then? I ask this because when I put the wires to the HO firing order of a 89 the engine ran horrible but when I pit the firing order to the non HO it ran great.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:37 PM   #25
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I believe all ho have same order.its only different to non ho
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:15 PM   #26
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Re: HELP!!!!!

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Is the 87 Ho firing order different from a 89 HO firing order then? I ask this because when I put the wires to the HO firing order of a 89 the engine ran horrible but when I pit the firing order to the non HO it ran great.
HO - 13726548


Non Ho - 15426378


If it runs better on the Non HO firing order, then it does not have a roller cam in it.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:07 PM   #27
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HO - 13726548

Non Ho - 15426378

If it runs better on the Non HO firing order, then it does not have a roller cam in it.
Agreed.I would pull the numbers off the block to be certain.
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:09 AM   #28
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So if I put a roller cam in it the firing order would be different?

---------- Post added at 07:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 AM ----------

Oh and get this, while I've got the stang tore apart and my powerwagon isn't charging the battery, my pontiac decides to blow up something in the cylinder head. So I have no vehicle and have like a weeks worth of work left on the stang. Oiy.
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:43 PM   #29
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Re: HELP!!!!!

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So if I put a roller cam in it the firing order would be different?

---------- Post added at 07:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 AM ----------

Oh and get this, while I've got the stang tore apart and my powerwagon isn't charging the battery, my pontiac decides to blow up something in the cylinder head. So I have no vehicle and have like a weeks worth of work left on the stang. Oiy.
If it is an H.O. cam it will be.


When it rains it pours...
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:56 PM   #30
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What yall think?
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:42 PM   #31
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What yall think?
I think it looks nice!
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:05 PM   #32
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Re: HELP!!!!!

I just wonder if I should paint the intake too or leave it the aluminum color. I painted the engine, valve covers, and oil pan because they were starting to get trace amounts of rust so I cleaned them up and painted them to stop the corrosion from progressing.
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:18 PM   #33
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I just wonder if I should paint the intake too or leave it the aluminum color. I painted the engine, valve covers, and oil pan because they were starting to get trace amounts of rust so I cleaned them up and painted them to stop the corrosion from progressing.
I read some time ago that a "thin" coat of black paint or anodizing will help aluminum parts dissipate heat faster, if that will help you decide.
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:34 PM   #34
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Re: HELP!!!!!

should I go red or black on it then?
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:03 PM   #35
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should I go red or black on it then?
That's entirely your choice.
The benefits of black on the aluminum are minimal and won't really have any noticeable effect, so paint it as you wish.


My preference is black with red lettering on my Victor 5.0 manifold, but paint yours to suit yourself.
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