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Old 04-05-2012, 05:56 PM   #1
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fox body weight loss

So ive been a fan of lightweight foxes for a long time..heard plenty of stories of stock foxes runnin 12's with suspension,tires and gears...anywho...im looking for any ideas how to lose some more lbs..ive heard almost everything I just wanna hear yall's opinions!...pics would be great as well!..
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:22 PM   #2
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Re: fox body weight loss

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Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66 View Post
So ive been a fan of lightweight foxes for a long time..heard plenty of stories of stock foxes runnin 12's with suspension,tires and gears...anywho...im looking for any ideas how to lose some more lbs..ive heard almost everything I just wanna hear yall's opinions!...pics would be great as well!..
I removed the back seats, scraped off all of the sound deadener, and replaced the hood and hatch with fiberglass models. The hatch window I replaced with a piece of Lexan plastic.


That brought my car down from around 3150 to 3200 lbs. to 2850 lbs. (weighed on scales) with a 1/4 tank of fuel. Of course with me sitting in it, it brings the weight back up to around 3000 to 3050 lbs..
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:34 PM   #3
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replace anything you can steel to aluminum including heads,rims,valve covers,bracketry,etc etc etc.
accesory deletes.
light wieght bucket seats.
cut a big whole in the roof
remove spare tire and keep a number to the tow service handy
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:53 PM   #4
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I have no rear seats n just removed the pass seat yesterday...how much a task is it to remove the sound deadning?...I have a heat gun and a scraper but how much lbs can I loose?..I still want it a good dd so lexan windows are prob out of the mix..heard the scratch easily bad visibility and are really hard to keep from leaking:/..
Heard about removing the door bars?..20lbs each but does that compromise the door stability?..I know its there as a safety issue but still..hmmm??
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:54 PM   #5
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And where do you guys weigh your cars?...a scrap yard?..
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:57 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66
And where do you guys weigh your cars?...a scrap yard?..
my local scrap yard will.but i havent tried yet.

i dont suppose removing the sound deadening will be worth the little gain.but i also dont know what it weighs.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:01 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dreamstang

my local scrap yard will.but i havent tried yet.

i dont suppose removing the sound deadening will be worth the little gain.but i also dont know what it weighs.
Im sorta in the same boat as you where I dont have $$ to do much but every lb counts so im willing to loose every free lb I can!...ive heard deadening can be somewhere around 20lbs!..dont quote me on that but for free I think its worth it..hell my pass seat was prolly 30lbs!..
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:07 PM   #8
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i hear ya.i know my original power seats where really heavy! 20 lbs may be worth it.go for it.heck if your going all out. carpet in the trunk to. you could lose 2 speakers.your exhaust dumped already or no?
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:29 PM   #9
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i hear ya.i know my original power seats where really heavy! 20 lbs may be worth it.go for it.heck if your going all out. carpet in the trunk to. you could lose 2 speakers.your exhaust dumped already or no?
Exhaust is dumped and all radio components are gone!..the only HUGE prob I have now is that no traction whatsoever...when I get some extra $$ suspension is the first thing on my list along with a battery relocation..

---------- Post added at 08:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------

I do have m/t street radials but not runnin them at the moment..its a dd thing..
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:29 PM   #10
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Re: fox body weight loss

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Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66 View Post
I have no rear seats n just removed the pass seat yesterday...how much a task is it to remove the sound deadning?...I have a heat gun and a scraper but how much lbs can I loose?..I still want it a good dd so lexan windows are prob out of the mix..heard the scratch easily bad visibility and are really hard to keep from leaking:/..
Heard about removing the door bars?..20lbs each but does that compromise the door stability?..I know its there as a safety issue but still..hmmm??
Real Lexan does not scratch all that easily (DO NOT use Plexiglass). You can also get it coated (Percy's High Perf) for further scratch protection.
The worst issue is that it will haze if it is left out in the sun too much, but it will polish up clear again. It also will not leak if properly installed. Mine has been in place for about 5 years now with no issues. It's all in how well you take care of it. Another BIG plus is that it is very impact resistant. You can smack it with a hammer and the hammer bounces off. It is safer and much lighter than glass. I sealed mine with a thick strip of that rubberized tar substance (sorry can't remember the name) and screwed it down every 2" around the window area. I also painted a strip black around it to hide the sealant area. Very happy with mine, but the choice is yours. Note: One of the main reasons I decided to use it was that I was afraid the glass would pop out because the fiberglass hatch is much more flexible.


The sound deadening is a bit difficult to remove and I had better luck just scraping it off without heating it. Some of it lifted right off with no problems other pieces were stuck tight. Not 100% sure, but I think all total it was around 10-15 lbs removed from the back of the front seats all the way to the trunk/hatch area.


Do not remove the door bars unless you are installing a cage with side protection. If you would happen to get hit in the side you could pretty much count on serious injury or death without some protection there. I wanted to run glass doors too, but Dave at HO Fibertrends talked me out of them for street use. He's a real nice guy who puts his customer's safety before his sales.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:34 PM   #11
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Re: fox body weight loss

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Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66 View Post
Exhaust is dumped and all radio components are gone!..the only HUGE prob I have now is that no traction whatsoever...when I get some extra $$ suspension is the first thing on my list along with a battery relocation..

---------- Post added at 08:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------

I do have m/t street radials but not runnin them at the moment..its a dd thing..
UMI Lift Bars, Sub-Frame connectors and some sticky tires will work wonders for your traction issues.
If you move the battery to the rear and you use a regular wet cell battery, I would mount it long side across the trunk. If you launch hard enough a few times and the wet cell battery is mounted lengthwise in the trunk it can force the lead plates inside the battery to bend and short out your battery internally.
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:40 AM   #12
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Just thought Id share a trick I found to be very helpful for removing sound deadening material. Most people have a lot of luck using heat, but I found the best thing to use is liquid nitrogen or dry ice. Once the material is frozen, just give it a couple whacks with a rubber mallet and it will chip away no problem
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:46 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

UMI Lift Bars, Sub-Frame connectors and some sticky tires will work wonders for your traction issues.
If you move the battery to the rear and you use a regular wet cell battery, I would mount it long side across the trunk. If you launch hard enough a few times and the wet cell battery is mounted lengthwise in the trunk it can force the lead plates inside the battery to bend and short out your battery internally.
Sub-frame has for sure been on my list of mods my question is (obviously you get what you pay for) steeda seems to have the priciest pair but would a cheaper set leave me wishing I had the steeds?..also reeeally want a tubular k-member for weight and workability!...I think im going to start on removing the sound deadening this week
Never heard that about the battery position but good to know...thanks!
Hmm maybe lexan is in my future..

---------- Post added at 11:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 88gtCc
Just thought Id share a trick I found to be very helpful for removing sound deadening material. Most people have a lot of luck using heat, but I found the best thing to use is liquid nitrogen or dry ice. Once the material is frozen, just give it a couple whacks with a rubber mallet and it will chip away no problem
Cool beans!...but im fresh outa liquid nitrogen....plus I think if I had some id never make it to actually workin on my car!..just freezing s#!t n braking stuff all day
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66

Sub-frame has for sure been on my list of mods my question is (obviously you get what you pay for) steeda seems to have the priciest pair but would a cheaper set leave me wishing I had the steeds?..also reeeally want a tubular k-member for weight and workability!...I think im going to start on removing the sound deadening this week
Never heard that about the battery position but good to know...thanks!
Hmm maybe lexan is in my future..

---------- Post added at 11:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 AM ----------



Cool beans!...but im fresh outa liquid nitrogen....plus I think if I had some id never make it to actually workin on my car!..just freezing s#!t n braking stuff all day
I plan on fabbing my own sf connectors.be cause I am a cheap a$$.so hooefuly they work good.

---------- Post added at 01:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:40 PM ----------

Looks like we need to get some nitrogen.haha.
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:53 PM   #15
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You can also weigh your car at most truck stops.
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:31 PM   #16
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Re: fox body weight loss

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Originally Posted by 88gtCc View Post
Just thought Id share a trick I found to be very helpful for removing sound deadening material. Most people have a lot of luck using heat, but I found the best thing to use is liquid nitrogen or dry ice. Once the material is frozen, just give it a couple whacks with a rubber mallet and it will chip away no problem
Excellent idea! You get the GOLD STAR
CO2 would work too and it's cheaper.
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:36 PM   #17
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Re: fox body weight loss

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Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66 View Post
Sub-frame has for sure been on my list of mods my question is (obviously you get what you pay for) steeda seems to have the priciest pair but would a cheaper set leave me wishing I had the steeds?..also reeeally want a tubular k-member for weight and workability!...I think im going to start on removing the sound deadening this week
Never heard that about the battery position but good to know...thanks!
Hmm maybe lexan is in my future..

---------- Post added at 11:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 AM ----------

Cool beans!...but im fresh outa liquid nitrogen....plus I think if I had some id never make it to actually workin on my car!..just freezing s#!t n braking stuff all day
For a tubular K-member be aware that only 1 company certifies theirs for use on a street driven car, Maximum Motorsports.
They are more expensive, but what is your or some innocent's life worth?
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:40 PM   #18
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Re: fox body weight loss

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I plan on fabbing my own sf connectors.be cause I am a cheap a$$.so hooefuly they work good.
---------- Post added at 01:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:40 PM ----------
Looks like we need to get some nitrogen.haha.
You are not a "cheap ass" or if you are then I am too. I often fabricate my own components when possible. Saves me money and I get the satisfaction of building it myself, my way.


Note: When fabbing sub-frame connectors, dimple at the bend area to conform to floor pans, use a bottle jack to push them into the correct position and clearance, then weld a rectangular plate over the dimple to re-strengthen the connector.


CO2 is cheaper.
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:45 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

You are not a "cheap ass" or if you are then I am too. I often fabricate my own components when possible. Saves me money and I get the satisfaction of building it myself, my way.

Note: When fabbing sub-frame connectors, dimple at the bend area to conform to floor pans, use a bottle jack to push them into the correct position and clearance, then weld a rectangular plate over the dimple to re-strengthen the connector.

CO2 is cheaper.
Ok ok.there is satisfaction to be had.I also fabbed the x bracing underneath the car that goes from the core support to subframe.
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:11 PM   #20
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CO2=dry ice. and honestly with my experience dry ice would work better due to not evaporating as quick as nitrogen. and nitrogen would be more expensive as you would use a lot more of it

---------- Post added at 03:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:09 PM ----------

dry ice is also easier to find and buy
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:18 PM   #21
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Re: fox body weight loss

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CO2=dry ice. and honestly with my experience dry ice would work better due to not evaporating as quick as nitrogen. and nitrogen would be more expensive as you would use a lot more of it

---------- Post added at 03:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:09 PM ----------

dry ice is also easier to find and buy
CO2 is easiest for me. It is what I use as a shielding gas to MIG weld with and the local soda fountains/restaurants keep it on hand. Plus for small areas/projects you can use computer spray can dusters, just turn them upside down.
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:33 PM   #22
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when u turn upside down does it just spray gas or liquid also?
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:49 PM   #23
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when u turn upside down does it just spray gas or liquid also?
Liquid/gas mix.
P.S. Try it on a fly or bug sometimes.
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:53 PM   #24
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Liquid/gas mix.
P.S. Try it on a fly or bug sometimes.
Haha bees freeze well and come back to life!...
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:55 PM   #25
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Re: fox body weight loss

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Haha bees freeze well and come back to life!...
Glad I'm not a bug.......
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