gt40 upper amd lower and maf upgrade!

[90mustangLX]

Originally Posted by dreamstang

my list goes on forever. you can check my garage though if you have an extra 20 minutes. lol

Lol, I've been following your thread, very nice work. Can I haz some monies? Lol

[dreamstang]

thanx. i wish i had some money. i had a good tax return.lol after close to 4 years including the price of my car i am only about 8500$ in.

[87blackonblack]

Originally Posted by 90mustangLX

Lol, I've been following your thread, very nice work. Can I haz some monies? Lol

lol to be honest i do construction and i take all the aluminum from jobsites scrap that is and i.scrap it 150 - 300 a pop abiut every three weeks this is how i..paid for it all lol

[dreamstang]

Originally Posted by 87blackonblack

lol to be honest i do construction and i take all the aluminum from jobsites scrap that is and i.scrap it 150 - 300 a pop abiut every three weeks this is how i..paid for it all lol

that works. another 40-50 weeks youll be ready for a super charger!

[87blackonblack]

Originally Posted by dreamstang

that works. another 40-50 weeks youll be ready for a super charger!

lol hahaha i no cant wait

[87blackonblack]

ok im going to time my car but never used a dial backvtimeing light what do i set this thing at to time my car help asap please

[87blackonblack]

Originally Posted by 87blackonblack

ok im going to time my car but never used a dial backvtimeing light what do i set this thing at to time my car help asap please

nevermind dumb question.

[Trojan Horse]

Originally Posted by 87blackonblack

ok im going to time my car but never used a dial backvtimeing light what do i set this thing at to time my car help asap please

They delay the signal so that the light flashes on the TDC mark and you read your advance from the display on the back of the light.


The correct way to use one of these to set it at what degree you want your engine timing set at, and then it should show up at 0° TDC on your harmonic balancer timing marks.


Example: If I want my engine to be at 10° BTDC at say 800 RPM, I would set the timing light at 10° and when the engine is idling at 800 RPM it should show 0° on the harmonic balancer timing marks.


P.S. That's from memory, so I hope I got it right.
If not, someone will let us know I hope.

[87blackonblack]

Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

They delay the signal so that the light flashes on the TDC mark and you read your advance from the display on the back of the light.

The correct way to use one of these to set it at what degree you want your engine timing set at, and then it should show up at 0° BTDC on your harmonic balancer timing marks.

Example: If I want my engine to be at 10° BTDC at say 800 RPM, I would set the timing light at 10° and when the engine is idling at 800 RPM it should show 0° on the harmonic balancer timing marks.

P.S. That's from memory, so I hope I got it right.
If not, someone will let us know I hope.

so i dont mark the 10 on the pulley its self then and linebthat up?

[1fst86]

So when u say it falls in its face, do u hear any backfiring, knocking, stumbling??? I did the conversion in my 86, used the stock bap sensor, just left it without the vacuum line as per the instructions. I did have to do wiring at the computer harness that wasn't explained In the instructions. What kind of maf are u running??

[87blackonblack]

Originally Posted by 1fst86

So when u say it falls in its face, do u hear any backfiring, knocking, stumbling??? I did the conversion in my 86, used the stock bap sensor, just left it without the vacuum line as per the instructions. I did have to do wiring at the computer harness that wasn't explained In the instructions. What kind of maf are u running??

well the car is running now decently but the maf is unpluged in order for it to do so.

1. i had the distr. 180 out and fould some plugs
2. put the oem injectors back in
3. re timed the car now seems to be ruining good now as long as the maf I'd unplugged.

with it plugged in i get poping and sputtering and just does not sound good at all. and just does not want to go anywhere.

i want to clean the maf but have no clue how.

its a 65mm from an 89 with an 89 computer and map sensor.

all vacuum lines look good unless they go to a specific spot that i'm unaware of.

it idles Like a dream now around 800 its never done that

so now other than fingering it correctly i'm not sure what to from here

---------- Post added at 05:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:02 PM ----------

haha meant timing it right

[1fst86]

Cleaning the MAF is easy, just make sure u use the correct solution for the job, some cleaners are too harsh. Did u buy Ur electronics used?

[87blackonblack]

the computer andbmaf yes but all the wireing was brand new i bought it in a kit

[87blackonblack]

okay took a video of my car crappy sound from my phone i was hopeing you could here the dif in sound with/out the maf hooked up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-Ub...e_gdata_player

[93slowstang]

The maf could be dirty or maybe going bad. Have you pulled te sensor out of the housing yet? Oh and that's a good looking fox.

[dreamstang]

Originally Posted by 93slowstang

The maf could be dirty or maybe going bad. Have you pulled te sensor out of the housing yet? Oh and that's a good looking fox.

yeah, i agree with all of this. including the good looking fox part.

[87blackonblack]

Originally Posted by dreamstang

yeah, i agree with all of this. including the good looking fox part.

thanks guys.

---------- Post added at 08:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:10 PM ----------

timeing question now? trojan said earlier that with the light im using i should set the light to ten degrees and then get the 0 mark to where it needs to be correct? that will get me back to stock timing. what i did was mark the pulley at the line that said ten and set the timing light to 25 for.2500 rpms at lined the 10 mark i made to the edge of the bracket make sense?

did i do this right or wrong and ifbso whats the.correct way cause this could be part of my issue as well.

[dreamstang]

the way i see it is. if you set the dial at 10* you should have the tdc 0* mark ligned up with the pointer. this is at idle. the point of the dial feature is it can help you check advance by revving the motor passed where it stops advancing, around 3000-3500 rpm. then turn the dial until you read 0* by looking at the dial, wherever you turned it to will be your total timing. i am sorry if i am confusing you, but basically wherever the dial is pointed when you read 0* at the pointer is your timing.

[87blackonblack]

Originally Posted by dreamstang

the way i see it is. if you set the dial at 10* you should have the tdc 0* mark ligned up with the pointer. this is at idle. the point of the dial feature is it can help you check advance by revving the motor passed where it stops advancing, around 3000-3500 rpm. then turn the dial until you read 0* by looking at the dial, wherever you turned it to will be your total timing. i am sorry if i am confusing you, but basically wherever the dial is pointed when you read 0* at the pointer is your timing.

know this makes perfect sence andbyes i did it wrong lol so tomorrow ill takle it again qnd get it set correctly maybe this.is my the maf is acting up. thanks again man...

---------- Post added at 08:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:38 PM ----------

Originally Posted by 87blackonblack

know this makes perfect sence andbyes i did it wrong lol so tomorrow ill takle it again qnd get it set correctly maybe this.is my the maf is acting up. thanks again man...

so to set the timing at say 14 i would turn the dial to 14 then get the tdc 0 to show on the pointer at idle then rev it up just passed where it stops advancing amd then turn the dial again until it sais 0 on the pointer. and what is total timing mean

[dreamstang]

Originally Posted by 87blackonblack

know this makes perfect sence andbyes i did it wrong lol so tomorrow ill takle it again qnd get it set correctly maybe this.is my the maf is acting up. thanks again man...

No problem

---------- Post added at 08:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:46 PM ----------

U shouldn't need to mess with the total timing. I would just set it at idle. Your timing will advance automatically at higher rpms. This is normal.

Base timing+timing advance= total timing

Racers will play with there total timing. But like I said. Just set it at idle and u should be good.

---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:52 PM ----------

Also this may make sense if your timing was an extra 12* Advanced. You may have been burning your fuel mixture early, similar to a lean condition due to the timing. When you unplugged your maf, it sent you ecu into a open loop. That usually results in a rich condition. So the 2 problem possibly may have been helping each other. If that makes sense. But I could be way wrong so take what I say with a grain of salt. But I will keep my fingers crossed you just had a timing issue.

[87blackonblack]

Originally Posted by dreamstang

No problem

---------- Post added at 08:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:46 PM ----------

U shouldn't need to mess with the total timing. I would just set it at idle. Your timing will advance automatically at higher rpms. This is normal.

Base timing+timing advance= total timing

Racers will play with there total timing. But like I said. Just set it at idle and u should be good.

---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:52 PM ----------

Also this may make sense if your timing was an extra 12* Advanced. You may have been burning your fuel mixture early, similar to a lean condition due to the timing. When you unplugged your maf, it sent you ecu into a open loop. That usually results in a rich condition. So the 2 problem possibly may have been helping each other. If that makes sense. But I could be way wrong so take what I say with a grain of salt. But I will keep my fingers crossed you just had a timing issue.

hey ill try anything to get this right.

[Trojan Horse]

Originally Posted by 87blackonblack

thanks guys.
---------- Post added at 08:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:10 PM ----------
timeing question now? trojan said earlier that with the light im using i should set the light to ten degrees and then get the 0 mark to where it needs to be correct? that will get me back to stock timing. what i did was mark the pulley at the line that said ten and set the timing light to 25 for.2500 rpms at lined the 10 mark i made to the edge of the bracket make sense?

did i do this right or wrong and ifbso whats the.correct way cause this could be part of my issue as well.

Originally Posted by dreamstang

the way i see it is. if you set the dial at 10* you should have the tdc 0* mark ligned up with the pointer. this is at idle. the point of the dial feature is it can help you check advance by revving the motor passed where it stops advancing, around 3000-3500 rpm. then turn the dial until you read 0* by looking at the dial, wherever you turned it to will be your total timing. i am sorry if i am confusing you, but basically wherever the dial is pointed when you read 0* at the pointer is your timing.

Hey guys, I had a mistake in my post above which I have corrected. I had "0° BTDC and it should have been 0° TDC." Sorry for the confusion. My pain meds really mess with my thinking sometimes.


dreamstang your assessment is correct I believe.
87blackonblack, what you did is not correct. The numbers on the dial are the advance, not RPMs.


First remove the spout connector.
Then set the dial to 10° on the timing light.
Start the engine and let it idle. (700-900 RPM) (Works best if engine is at operating temp.)
Check your timing, the pointer/light flash should be on 0° TDC if the timing is correct.
Set the timing if incorrect, tighten down the distributor once that is completed and replace the spout connector and you are done.


Now, like I said earlier I am going from memory and have not used one of those lights for a year or two, so you might want to verify that I have it 100% correct.

[dreamstang]

Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Hey guys, I had a mistake in my post above which I have corrected. I had "0° BTDC and it should have been 0° TDC." Sorry for the confusion. My pain meds really mess with my thinking sometimes.

dreamstang your assessment is correct I believe.
87blackonblack, what you did is not correct. The numbers on the dial are the advance, not RPMs.

First remove the spout connector.
Then set the dial to 10° on the timing light.
Start the engine and let it idle. (700-900 RPM) (Works best if engine is at operating temp.)
Check your timing, the pointer/light flash should be on 0° TDC if the timing is correct.
Set the timing if incorrect, tighten down the distributor once that is completed and replace the spout connector and you are done.

Now, like I said earlier I am going from memory and have not used one of those lights for a year or two, so you might want to verify that I have it 100% correct.

I prefer a standard light. But those type are really good for figuring total timing. But yeah I think you are right.

[87blackonblack]

first thing today i will re time her and see what she does.
thanks hopefully this cures it all

[87blackonblack]

ok i unplugged the sensor thingy retimed my car to 14 degreez shut it off plugged back in the sensor and the timing to is not showing 0 but it is showing 10 on the wheel is tbis normal? or should it still read 0 at the pointer

[dreamstang]

it should still read zero if your dial on the light is set to where you want your car timed. the mark on the pointer will change if it was at a different rpm.

[87blackonblack]

Originally Posted by dreamstang

it should still read zero if your dial on the light is set to where you want your car timed. the mark on the pointer will change if it was at a different rpm.

no the idle changed a little when i pluged the sensor in but it did not stay at 0 the pointer was read around ten should i set the timeing with the plug thing in and see what it sais



is the the one i unplug to set the timing?

[dreamstang]

That looks like it. I don't have one so I don't remember. Definitely set the timing with the spout connector off.

http://www.muscularmustangs.com/timing.php

---------- Post added at 01:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 PM ----------

A little bit of idle change won't affect it to much.

[87blackonblack]

Originally Posted by dreamstang

That looks like it. I don't have one so I don't remember. Definitely set the timing with the spout connector off.

http://www.muscularmustangs.com/timing.php

---------- Post added at 01:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 PM ----------

A little bit of idle change won't affect it to much.

well the timing is set with the connector off but still wont run with the maf hooked up. im going to clean it mondau and go through all the vacuum lines amd wiring make sure its all good and hope for the best!

[dreamstang]

Originally Posted by 87blackonblack

well the timing is set with the connector off but still wont run with the maf hooked up. im going to clean it mondau and go through all the vacuum lines amd wiring make sure its all good and hope for the best!

Aww darn. I was hoping it was the timing. Well sounds like you have a good plan of attack. Try pulling the codes to why you are at it. Good luck man

[87blackonblack]

Originally Posted by dreamstang

Aww darn. I was hoping it was the timing. Well sounds like you have a good plan of attack. Try pulling the codes to why you are at it. Good luck man

i dont have anything to check codes with and there are no dummy lights on. but ill start with the maf and vacuum and wiring and go from there.

would the maf not being hooked up hurt the car if i drove it that way.

[dreamstang]

Originally Posted by 87blackonblack

i dont have anything to check codes with and there are no dummy lights on. but ill start with the maf and vacuum and wiring and go from there.

would the maf not being hooked up hurt the car if i drove it that way.

I don't THINK it would hurt it over a short time. But basically without the maf hooked up it will run in a closed loop, preset air fuel mixture. The ecu will not be able to adjust the fuel according to the air coming in. Imo I wouldn't be scared to drive a short while to the store or something like that. But I would try to get it right asap. Maybe Trojan could answer this one better.

[87blackonblack]

okay ill just leave it be no reason go drive it and make it worse or possibly hurt it so

[Robbie94gt]

When u have the maf unplugged the check engine light should come on. Does it? Amd u can check your codes with just a short piece of wire. I think there should be a article on here under the useful info. That's what I always use amd it works great. But I would try to clean the maf or try to get another one to try. But I hope u get it figured out cuz I want to hear from u how much difference u feel in it. Cuz I'm getting ready to put gt40 p heads amd intake on my car

[87blackonblack]

Originally Posted by Robbie94gt

When u have the maf unplugged the check engine light should come on. Does it? Amd u can check your codes with just a short piece of wire. I think there should be a article on here under the useful info. That's what I always use amd it works great. But I would try to clean the maf or try to get another one to try. But I hope u get it figured out cuz I want to hear from u how much difference u feel in it. Cuz I'm getting ready to put gt40 p heads amd intake on my car

yea i have no lights on at all so i going to go back through the wireing and make sure its all good clean the maf and go from there. it runs really well with out the maf connected but i am affraid to get on it until i get it all figured out.

whats the wire thkng your talking about