86 running rich

[lilrafe87]

Running rich but runs pretty damn good. Changed o2 sensors, tps, and iac sensors also. New plugs, wires and cap and rotor. I'm stumped. Think it might be a stuck open injector? Thanks

[Trojan Horse]

Originally Posted by lilrafe87

Running rich but runs pretty damn good. Changed o2 sensors, tps, and iac sensors also. New plugs, wires and cap and rotor. I'm stumped. Think it might be a stuck open injector? Thanks

Could be a stuck injector or a bad regulator that is allowing too much fuel pressure.

Also your temp sensors could be bad and have the ECU stuck in cold loop.

[lilrafe87]

Looks like I'm getting a new fpr tomorrow. Thanks

[All41]

Keep it stock... don't bother with adjustable.

[1fst86]

Check for codes, might have a bad map sensor

[Trojan Horse]

Originally Posted by All41

Keep it stock... don't bother with adjustable.

Why not?

[lilrafe87]

Stock I shall get, but as far as the map sensor, it's new also. New vacuum line from the map to the upper intake.

[1fst86]

What are Ur mods?

[lilrafe87]

Pretty much stock a far as I can tell. I have an h pipe w no cats just 2 flowmaster muffs. Smog delete and a/c delete also. No upgrades as far as motor and tranny. Stock air cleaner. Thanks

[All41]

Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Why not?

The stock one works just fine and prevents the owner from screwing up his/her fuel pressure. It also lasts longer. If you have forced induction, I suppose this is of no concern, but for anyone running N/A or with nitrous, stock is the safest bet.

I can't say why it works better, but I know that when I used a stock regulator, my pressure would peg my gauge at 125psi with nitrous(dry kit) on, but with an adjustable, the pressure remained where it was set and that causes problems.

[1fst86]

If u have a fuel pressure gauge, try to find out what pressure Ur running at before u throw parts at it. Have u pulled any codes

[Trojan Horse]

Originally Posted by All41

The stock one works just fine and prevents the owner from screwing up his/her fuel pressure. It also lasts longer. If you have forced induction, I suppose this is of no concern, but for anyone running N/A or with nitrous, stock is the safest bet.

I can't say why it works better, but I know that when I used a stock regulator, my pressure would peg my gauge at 125psi with nitrous(dry kit) on, but with an adjustable, the pressure remained where it was set and that causes problems.

I guess if you do not need the adjustment for tuning purposes the stock ones work just fine.
You must have had a faulty regulator. Mine (Accufab) have always worked perfectly.

[All41]

Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

I guess if you do not need the adjustment for tuning purposes the stock ones work just fine.
You must have had a faulty regulator. Mine (Accufab) have always worked perfectly.

To each his own, but if it ain't broke...

I put an adjustable on my last build, but it got a carburetor and the nitrous for that one was wet and ran from a different spot on the regulator, specifically to feed the nitrous system.

[Trojan Horse]

Originally Posted by All41

To each his own, but if it ain't broke...

I put an adjustable on my last build, but it got a carburetor and the nitrous for that one was wet and ran from a different spot on the regulator, specifically to feed the nitrous system.

but if it ain't broke...TINKER WITH IT!

[dreamstang]

Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

but if it ain't broke...TINKER WITH IT!

Haha. I bet you at, at least one time probably had a modified stock that worked better than original. Lol

[Trojan Horse]

Originally Posted by dreamstang

Haha. I bet you at, at least one time probably had a modified stock that worked better than original. Lol

I am forever "re-engineering" stuff.
It drives my wife crazy, but my modifications usually make whatever it is work better or more useful.


Most of my cars & trucks ran some better than their un-tweaked local counterparts.
First thing I always did on my old vehicles was to tune and tinker until they were performing as good as they could without tearing into the engines. There is a good bit to be had by optimizing timing, carb jetting, using lighter weight grease in the wheel bearings and rear axle, tire pressure and above all lighten those puppies up as much as possible.


Example; years ago I had a 69 Mustang GT Fastback & a cousin had a Rally Sport Nova. He had been beating other 69 & 70 Mustangs in the area, but my GT had a "tweaked" 351W under the hood and most of the other mods above. I put two car lengths on him and ruined his short reign. He never could figure out how I could beat him when other similar cars could not. He never even noticed that the back seat was missing. Let's just say he isn't the brightest bulb in the light fixture.

[dreamstang]

Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

I am forever "re-engineering" stuff.
It drives my wife crazy, but my modifications usually make whatever it is work better or more useful.

Most of my cars & trucks ran some better than their un-tweaked local counterparts.
First thing I always did on my old vehicles was to tune and tinker until they were performing as good as they could without tearing into the engines. There is a good bit to be had by optimizing timing, carb jetting, using lighter weight grease in the wheel bearings and rear axle, tire pressure and above all lighten those puppies up as much as possible.

Example; years ago I had a 69 Mustang GT Fastback & a cousin had a Rally Sport Nova. He had been beating other 69 & 70 Mustangs in the area, but my GT had a "tweaked" 351W under the hood and most of the other mods above. I put two car lengths on him and ruined his short reign. He never could figure out how I could beat him when other similar cars could not. He never even noticed that the back seat was missing. Let's just say he isn't the brightest bulb in the light fixture.

Haha. Nice.
My wife calls me Tim the toolman. But like him sometimes my tinkers don't work out so good.lol

[lilrafe87]

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge. I have a brand new fuel pump and hanger. Also a new fuel filter. I have it timed at 10 degrees

[lilrafe87]

Checked codes read 63, tps voltage low, and 18, spark out (spout) ignition. Did switch out my original tps for my buddies he had laying around. He told me it was new, but I'll have to put the original back in then re test. 63 I hope isn't a pip sensor in the dist. Thanks

[Robbie94gt]

Hey I'm jst wandering how do u know it's running rich. What's it doing ?

[1fst86]

I was about to ask the same thing

[Trojan Horse]

Originally Posted by lilrafe87

Checked codes read 63, tps voltage low, and 18, spark out (spout) ignition. Did switch out my original tps for my buddies he had laying around. He told me it was new, but I'll have to put the original back in then re test. 63 I hope isn't a pip sensor in the dist. Thanks

Here are some tests and checks for error code 63 - TPS Circuit Fault - starts about half way down the page.


Code 18 = Spout out or wiring fault/short circuit. Look for a missing Spout jumper plug, a short to ground or open circuit/broken wire in the Spout wiring going back to the ECU. It is also possible that you have a bad TFI module.


The Spout connector enables the distributor/ECU to advance the timing past the base setting. Without a working Spout connector, you are held to the timing you set at the distributor.

[lilrafe87]

Ok thanks, but I must have read the test wrong. Defiantly gives the 63, the other code I believe is 118. I already changed the coolant temp switch. Purchased it from advance auto. It is plastic. Might just throw my old one back in.

---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------

Would these codes cause the car to run rich?

[Trojan Horse]

Originally Posted by lilrafe87

Ok thanks, but I must have read the test wrong. Defiantly gives the 63, the other code I believe is 118. I already changed the coolant temp switch. Purchased it from advance auto. It is plastic. Might just throw my old one back in.

---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------

Would these codes cause the car to run rich?

The code 118 could I suppose if the ECU sensed it as a cold start/run condition.

[lilrafe87]

Got my old tps, I'll throw it on in the morning and see what happens. That doesn't work I'll have to get an ohm meter.

[1fst86]

Bad coolant temp reading will definitely make u run rich, it could keep u in open loop.

[lilrafe87]

Bought a new temp sensor from advance auto and it is plastic. My original one was metal. I'll put my original one back in and see if that fixes it. Thanks

[lilrafe87]

Pt my old tps on and now code 63 is gone, but I get code 18. Then the car wants to idle down low and seem like it wants to stall, but doesn't. Put the other one back on and it seems to run fine. I don't get it.

[1fst86]

How did all this come about?? Vehicle history plz

[Trojan Horse]

Have you taken the car for a drive with the new parts or whenever it seems to be running ok?Just letting it idle and not go through a heating and cooling cycle may have some effect on what you are seeing.

[lilrafe87]

Took for a ride and it drives fine without idling funny. Think it's problem solved.

[Trojan Horse]

Originally Posted by lilrafe87

Took for a ride and it drives fine without idling funny. Think it's problem solved.

That's good to hear.