Swapping out the AOD - Page 4 - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1979-1995 Mustang GT



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 06-10-2012, 09:08 AM   #106
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Re: Swapping out the AOD

ok i finally got the video to upload let me know if it works.


Aod to t-5 swap first startup - YouTube
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-10-2012, 09:11 AM   #107
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Maybe. If you can't turn the dial that maybe you problem. Did you try sticking the probe in boiling water?

---------- Post added at 09:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:09 AM ----------

Yes the video works.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 09:17 AM   #108
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Re: Swapping out the AOD

i have not tried that one yet but i will once i get a chance heh. I also thought about taping the probe to the radiator hose or possibly laying it on the intake since the engine is obviously going to get hot before the radiator. i had a set of small screwdrivers for when i used to be into r/c cars and such but i dont know what i did with them, might run down into the basement and check out my boxes and see if i can find them.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-10-2012, 11:06 AM   #109
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Ok, found my little screwdriver kit. Doesn't matter which way I turn the little dial. Fan does not come on. Put probe in scolding hot water while turning the dial still nothing.

I jumped across the relay prong to be sure the relay was good and the fan will run. I checked the socket for power with key on and off for the ignition, gets power with key on and no power with key off.

Red wire is directly on battery and is getting the constant 12 volts. Grounds are good....I'm running outta ideas, I'm about to put it back the way it was(running as soon as key is on) just so I can at least drive it.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 11:11 AM   #110
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90mustangLX
Ok, found my little screwdriver kit. Doesn't matter which way I turn the little dial. Fan does not come on. Put probe in scolding hot water while turning the dial still nothing.

I jumped across the relay prong to be sure the relay was good and the fan will run. I checked the socket for power with key on and off for the ignition, gets power with key on and no power with key off.

Red wire is directly on battery and is getting the constant 12 volts. Grounds are good....I'm running outta ideas, I'm about to put it back the way it was(running as soon as key is on) just so I can at least drive it.
At this point you either need to return the controller or get a new one. I belive what you did sounds right and have done plenty of testing. t least you can test drive it.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 11:17 AM   #111
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
That's what I'm thinking....only thing is I don't think they have another of the same controller there. They had one that was preset and the other was just too chinsy looking.

Looks like I'm just gonna run a wire to the inside fuse box doin can at least drive it to make sure everything is good.

I could put the yellow wire directly to the battery and turn the dial that way to see if the controller itself is screwed up I think. I just don't understand how I'm getting power to go straight through down to the fan but it won't kick on no matter where I turn the dial even after I was told the fan should kick on if I turn the dial all the way one way or the other.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 11:19 AM   #112
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90mustangLX
That's what I'm thinking....only thing is I don't think they have another of the same controller there. They had one that was preset and the other was just too chinsy looking.

Looks like I'm just gonna run a wire to the inside fuse box doin can at least drive it to make sure everything is good.
I got mine from summit racing. For 40$. But it requires a spot for the sensor. If you need info or part number let me know
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 01:29 PM   #113
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
I decided to rewire it so it comes on with the key. I wanted to take it for a spin! WOW I was losing so much power behind that aod, rolling about 5 mph just mashing the gas lights up the tires and I have some wide/tall tires on the back. Clutch definately needs adjusted a little more, a little tough getting it into gear without grinding.

Which leads me to 1 issue...the starter... That thing is loud as hell and I don't know if it's going to last because I pulled it back in the garage, shut it off, then decided to fire it up again and it started to crank then just grind....

I don't know if it's just not going in far enough and barely catching the flywheel or if it's going in too far.

Other than the starter issue and the clutch needing adjusted it ran great! I didn't want to get too far from the house so I didn't do a full on run with it, that starter has me upset since it never made that noise before the swap and the flywheel looked to be in good shape no bent over teeth and no missing teeth.

Yes it is installed the correct way, this isn't my first rodeo installing a t5 lol.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 01:45 PM   #114
Lorraine's driver

Regular
 
ab_mach1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Indianapolis
Region: Indiana
Posts: 7,863
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90mustangLX
I decided to rewire it so it comes on with the key. I wanted to take it for a spin! WOW I was losing so much power behind that aod, rolling about 5 mph just mashing the gas lights up the tires and I have some wide/tall tires on the back. Clutch definately needs adjusted a little more, a little tough getting it into gear without grinding.

Which leads me to 1 issue...the starter... That thing is loud as hell and I don't know if it's going to last because I pulled it back in the garage, shut it off, then decided to fire it up again and it started to crank then just grind....

I don't know if it's just not going in far enough and barely catching the flywheel or if it's going in too far.

Other than the starter issue and the clutch needing adjusted it ran great! I didn't want to get too far from the house so I didn't do a full on run with it, that starter has me upset since it never made that noise before the swap and the flywheel looked to be in good shape no bent over teeth and no missing teeth.

Yes it is installed the correct way, this isn't my first rodeo installing a t5 lol.
I'm sure you'll get the starter squared away. Wish I could help you with that. Good to hear you were able to complete your test drive!
__________________
Instagram: @ab_mach1
ab_mach1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 02:01 PM   #115
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Awsome man.

First the starter. Are you sure it didn't mess the teeth up on the starter when you had the shim in it? You did take the shim out right? Maybe for some reason with everything being bolted up the started is aligned different than before? Idk on this one man just some guesses.

As for the fan. I would get that controller as soon as you can. I'm not saying don't drive it or anything. But you will eventually burn your fan up from running constant all the time.

But congratulations. Happy times!
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 02:22 PM   #116
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
Awsome man.

First the starter. Are you sure it didn't mess the teeth up on the starter when you had the shim in it? You did take the shim out right? Maybe for some reason with everything being bolted up the started is aligned different than before? Idk on this one man just some guesses.

As for the fan. I would get that controller as soon as you can. I'm not saying don't drive it or anything. But you will eventually burn your fan up from running constant all the time.

But congratulations. Happy times!
Yup, I took the shim out. If anything taking that shim out may have made the sound worse. I've been reading some threads where people have said they had to shim the starter unless it was the oem starter. I don't know if it's the oem starter in my 90 or not. I thought about pulling it and getting the starter from my 87 and comparing them to see if there are any differences in them.

Yea I'll get the fan fixed as soon as a can. I just did that so I could test drive it without over heating. That starter noise is just mind boggling
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 04:17 PM   #117
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: Swapping out the AOD

Ok, I'm late to the party, and I need some more info that I didn't see in any of the previous posts.

Cooling Fan Issue:
Name and model number of the control you are using.
A rough drawing of how you have it wired up if possible.
Name and model number of the fan you are using.


Starter Noise Issue:
When a starter makes loud noises when starting the engine it is usually attributed to misalignment or starter damage. That can be caused by several different things.
1. Starter drive gear engagement depth is to little or too much.
2. Starter drive gear meshing is to deep or to little.
3. Starter drive gear and flywheel ring gear are incompatible (wrong tooth count).
4. Starter drive or internals are damaged.


Look for clues as to what the problem might be. A starter drive gear that is going in to deep will show marks on the back side of the gear and you might see contact marks on the edge of the starter ring gear. A poorly meshed gear will show wear marks on the edges of both the ring gear and the starter drive gear. A starter drive gear that is meshed to deeply will show marks in the bottom of the gear teeth on both the drive gear and ring gear.


From what you have described I am wondering if you have the correct starter for your application?
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 06:34 PM   #118
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Was wondering when you might chime in TH

Well I put the shim back in and it's still loud but will start the car. I tried to look at the flywheel with the starter out and say a little bit of shavings from the starter some I thinking it was going too deep and may still be going too deep even with the little starter shim.

I asked my stang guy if there should be a shim and he said no but I've read a few posts saying they had to.

The controller is an imperial made by Hayden auto motive.

I have the red wire going straight to the battery. The black wire straight to the battery, orange power wire with fuse going to power side of fan, yellow wire I put on the red wire on the wiper motor because it recieved power with the key on only and I don't have a volt meter at to check the exact voltage on it.

I jumped the relay and the fan came on so I know the relay is good. It doesn't matter if I turn the dial all the way to the right or left it will not kick the fans on.

The fan is a stock fan from a 1995 mustang gt and that thing can move some air.

---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:52 PM ----------

Sorry had to find the box for the part number of the controller

226204 is what it says next to the bar code on the front
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 07:41 PM   #119
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: Swapping out the AOD

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90mustangLX View Post
Was wondering when you might chime in TH

Well I put the shim back in and it's still loud but will start the car. I tried to look at the flywheel with the starter out and say a little bit of shavings from the starter some I thinking it was going too deep and may still be going too deep even with the little starter shim.

I asked my stang guy if there should be a shim and he said no but I've read a few posts saying they had to.

The controller is an imperial made by Hayden auto motive.

I have the red wire going straight to the battery. The black wire straight to the battery, orange power wire with fuse going to power side of fan, yellow wire I put on the red wire on the wiper motor because it recieved power with the key on only and I don't have a volt meter at to check the exact voltage on it.

I jumped the relay and the fan came on so I know the relay is good. It doesn't matter if I turn the dial all the way to the right or left it will not kick the fans on.

The fan is a stock fan from a 1995 mustang gt and that thing can move some air.

---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:52 PM ----------

Sorry had to find the box for the part number of the controller

226204 is what it says next to the bar code on the front
Had a new grandson arrive and a wedding I had to attend, so I've been a bit busy.


I have never heard of having to shim the 5.0 starters, but that doesn't mean it couldn't be needed on occasion. We need to determine exactly what the issue is somehow, then we will be able to determine how to go about fixing it. Are you positively sure it is the correct starter for your application and that you have the correct flywheel and starter ring gear?


On the fan control I found these instructions on Hayden Auto, please choose which one you have.
The number you gave didn't match anything I could find on their website.


12623-IS 3653 Adjustable Thermostat


P-474 3652 Fan Controllers


P-475 3647 Fan Controllers

Electric fans usually pull around 30 Amps on high speed. When starting up they can pull as much as 70 Amps. Therefore you should size the wiring and relay sizes accordingly or there is a good chance you will burn up one or the other.
I use 8 to 10 gauge wire (depending on how far I have to run the wires) for the fan power and 16 or 14 gauge for the control system just to be sure the wiring will carry sufficient current/voltage to the fan motors and controls. For relays I use a 70 Amp relay, again just to be sure the contacts will carry sufficient current/voltage to the fan motors and that they can handle the start up Amperage. I have found that using smaller relays leads to them failing prematurely in most cases.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 07:53 PM   #120
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Had a new grandson arrive and a wedding I had to attend, so I've been a bit busy.

I have never heard of having to shim the 5.0 starters, but that doesn't mean it couldn't be needed on occasion. We need to determine exactly what the issue is somehow, then we will be able to determine how to go about fixing it. Are you positively sure it is the correct starter for your application and that you have the correct flywheel and starter ring gear?

On the fan control I found these instructions on Hayden Auto, please choose which one you have.
The number you gave didn't match anything I could find on their website.

12623-IS 3653 Adjustable Thermostat

P-474 3652 Fan Controllers

P-475 3647 Fan Controllers

Electric fans usually pull around 30 Amps on high speed. When starting up they can pull as much as 70 Amps. Therefore you should size the wiring and relay sizes accordingly or there is a good chance you will burn up one or the other.
I use 8 to 10 gauge wire (depending on how far I have to run the wires) for the fan power and 16 or 14 gauge for the control system just to be sure the wiring will carry sufficient current/voltage to the fan motors and controls. For relays I use a 70 Amp relay, again just to be sure the contacts will carry sufficient current/voltage to the fan motors and that they can handle the start up Amperage. I have found that using smaller relays leads to them failing prematurely in most cases.
Well congrats!

Honestly I have no idea on the starter as I reused the starter from my auto. I was going to use the one that was in my manual but it made the same noise so I figured the auto would not do it but it does. You got the gears ironing on maybe it's possible I have a 157 tooth flywheel but a starter for an 160 or vice versa.

The controller kit is definately the 3647 one, the instructions match the ones I have. It has a 25 amp fuse in the orange wire going to the fan and the wire is fairly thick, the 12 volt constant wire is also thick, the ignition wire 12 volt is a smaller..

I upgraded the 30 amp relay to a 40 amp because I heard the sn95 fans pull around 30 amps on startup then smooth out to around 24-25 but I haven't even made it past startup because I can't get it to turn my fan on heh.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 08:05 PM   #121
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
I was wondering if you could use some gear meshing compound.on the starter and see if you can tell where it meshes. As for the amount of theeth on the flywheel, if you don't know what you have its to hard to count the teeth now.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 08:12 PM   #122
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
I was wondering if you could use some gear meshing compound.on the starter and see if you can tell where it meshes. As for the amount of theeth on the flywheel, if you don't know what you have its to hard to count the teeth now.
Yup :/ I never thought to count it because I always just assumed the other starter was just going bad, now I wish I had counted the teeth.

I thought about getting some anti seize and wiping it on the gear then bumping the starter and see if I can tell what it's doing.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 08:17 PM   #123
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90mustangLX

Yup :/ I never thought to count it because I always just assumed the other starter was just going bad, now I wish I had counted the teeth.

I thought about getting some anti seize and wiping it on the gear then bumping the starter and see if I can tell what it's doing.
Anti seize may work. They do actually have mesh compound. And I bet its pretty cheap. When u but a master install kit for a rear end it come with it. But anti seize is free so give her Hell.

If its meshing in the center evenly then it must be starter failure.
If its towards the sides it needs shimmed.
If it toward the outside or inside(depth) then it may not have matching teeth.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 08:22 PM   #124
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang

Anti seize may work. They do actually have mesh compound. And I bet its pretty cheap. When u but a master install kit for a rear end it come with it. But anti seize is free so give her Hell.

If its meshing in the center evenly then it must be starter failure.
If its towards the sides it needs shimmed.
If it toward the outside or inside(depth) then it may not have matching teeth.
Yup, I know exactly what you mean, yellow stuff, it gets everywhere if you accidently have some on your fingers heh

I'll have to give it a go next weekend, for now I'm just gonna take a break from crawling underneath it and just enjoy the accomplishment.

Also have to check out my speedo, I think it slid off the cluster when I grabbed the housing by accident and pulled on it, speedo wasn't working when I took it into town.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 08:29 PM   #125
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: Swapping out the AOD

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90mustangLX View Post
Well congrats!

Honestly I have no idea on the starter as I reused the starter from my auto. I was going to use the one that was in my manual but it made the same noise so I figured the auto would not do it but it does. You got the gears ironing on maybe it's possible I have a 157 tooth flywheel but a starter for an 160 or vice versa.

The controller kit is definately the 3647 one, the instructions match the ones I have. It has a 25 amp fuse in the orange wire going to the fan and the wire is fairly thick, the 12 volt constant wire is also thick, the ignition wire 12 volt is a smaller..

I upgraded the 30 amp relay to a 40 amp because I heard the sn95 fans pull around 30 amps on startup then smooth out to around 24-25 but I haven't even made it past startup because I can't get it to turn my fan on heh.
Look up starters (same brand as you have) for both an auto and a manual and see if they list the same parts number.


Ok, on the fan controller you mentioned earlier that you had connected it to the wiper wiring? If so, that may have fried the relay. Here is an excerpt from the instructions that explains why.


Quote:
CAUTION: Relay damage will occur if the yellow wire is connected to
a source with low or fluctuating voltage. This will occur on some
electronic ignition systems or coils that use a ballast resistor to drop.
voltage to the coil. This condition will cause the relay to chatter. If this
occurs, connect the yellow wire to another lead which is not on the
engine ignition circuit.

A good source for this wire would be one of the "extra" unused terminals in the fuse block. That way you are getting a good, solid source of power.


I have the SN95 fan too and it is a 2-speed fan. This particular controller does not appear to have the correct wiring for handling a 2-speed fan. It is for "Dual" single speed fans. Therefore you would only be able to utilize the high or low speed circuit of the fan motor with this controller using the Orange power output wire. If you connected the Orange and Blue wires to the SN95 fans, then the fan motor may not run and it could burn up the motor trying to run both speeds at the same time.


Also the SN95 fan does draw 30 Amps on high speed (I have tested mine using an Ammeter) and it spikes up close to 70 Amps on startup. Therefore you need to ensure that your relays and wiring can handle that much load at least for short periods of time.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 08:43 PM   #126
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Look up starters (same brand as you have) for both an auto and a manual and see if they list the same parts number.

Ok, on the fan controller you mentioned earlier that you had connected it to the wiper wiring? If so, that may have fried the relay. Here is an excerpt from the instructions that explains why.

A good source for this wire would be one of the "extra" unused terminals in the fuse block. That way you are getting a good, solid source of power.

I have the SN95 fan too and it is a 2-speed fan. This particular controller does not appear to have the correct wiring for handling a 2-speed fan. It is for "Dual" single speed fans. Therefore you would only be able to utilize the high or low speed circuit of the fan motor with this controller using the Orange power output wire. If you connected the Orange and Blue wires to the SN95 fans, then the fan motor may not run and it could burn up the motor trying to run both speeds at the same time.

Also the SN95 fan does draw 30 Amps on high speed (I have tested mine using an Ammeter) and it spikes up close to 70 Amps on startup. Therefore you need to ensure that your relays and wiring can handle that much load at least for short periods of time.
Ok, I've tested the new relay since hooking it up to the wiper wire and if I jump the prong to ground the fan will run.

I only have the orange wire plugged into the high speed prong on the fan, the blue wire I just coiled it up and electrical taped it in case I ever decide to run a dual setup.

Sounds like I need to get some more wire for the ignition source and take it to the inside of the car, then upgrade the relay to a 70 amp and throw a 30-35 amp fuse in the orange wire.

I will for sure double check the starters for auto and manual. I asked my guy at advance( mustang guru like TH) and he said there was no difference but that doesn't mean he's right heh.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 08:54 PM   #127
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: Swapping out the AOD

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90mustangLX View Post
Ok, I've tested the new relay since hooking it up to the wiper wire and if I jump the prong to ground the fan will run.

I only have the orange wire plugged into the high speed prong on the fan, the blue wire I just coiled it up and electrical taped it in case I ever decide to run a dual setup.

Sounds like I need to get some more wire for the ignition source and take it to the inside of the car, then upgrade the relay to a 70 amp and throw a 30-35 amp fuse in the orange wire.

I will for sure double check the starters for auto and manual. I asked my guy at advance( mustang guru like TH) and he said there was no difference but that doesn't mean he's right heh.
Good, it sounds like you were aware of the 2-speed/dual speed differences.
They do make a 2-speed controller if you wanted to go that route. It is for dual fans, but adapting it for single fan use should be relatively easy.


Even the best techs and mechs make mistakes, so always double check any info you get.
Dreamstang and the guys on here keep an eye on me to make sure I don't mess up too much.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 09:06 PM   #128
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Yeah a heavier relay would be good. The one I have has a 65 for startup and 30-35 for constant in it.

---------- Post added at 09:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:04 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Good, it sounds like you were aware of the 2-speed/dual speed differences.
They do make a 2-speed controller if you wanted to go that route. It is for dual fans, but adapting it for single fan use should be relatively easy.

Even the best techs and mechs make mistakes, so always double check any info you get.
Dreamstang and the guys on here keep an eye on me to make sure I don't mess up too much.
The funny thing is its usually not a mess up. I just sometimes either put your text into lamens terms or fill in a little extra.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 05:53 PM   #129
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Could it be possible that I need a shorter depth starter? That's one thing I never thought to measure was the depth because the shim seemed to help it make contact better.

Should I count my flex plate teeth to see how many it has then get a starter for the other number of teeth flywheel?

---------- Post added at 06:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:20 PM ----------

Also emailed Jegs and the tech said both starters should work and to look at my flywheel for damage. Well I had it completely out and didn't notice anything out of the ordernary.

Even took the starter out and looked at it when it was grinding and it wasn't shiny, had some metal slivers on it but looked to be from the starter gear or starter shaft where it was grinding when I cranked it over.

I really don't want to have to pull everything back out to try another flywheel heh.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 05:56 PM   #130
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Can you try your starter off your 87 for chits and giggles?
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 06:19 PM   #131
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Re: Swapping out the AOD

i probably could but from what i remember it made the same sound when cranking it. i may try that this weekend, swap them out but also lay them side by side to compare them. I still dont believe its a flywheel issue, not yet! lol

i want o try some different variable before i put my finger on the flywheel being the issue. when i took the flywheel off i sprayed it down with brake cleaner and wipes it down with rags and looked at the teeth and they looked to be in pretty good shape like none bent or missing. i'll have to see if my buddy still has his old flywheel so i can look at it and see if i notice anything different compared to what mine looked like.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 06:25 PM   #132
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
For what your going through, the flywheel would have been noticeably damaged during inspection. Especially since it does it everytime. If it was damaged that would mean it was all the way around. Not intermittently.

The only reasonable thing that makes sense to me is your flywheel has different amount of teeth or needs shimmer.

Where did you get the flywheel? What vehicle etc? Maybe we can do some cross referencing on your vehicle and the one you got it off of and see if those vehicles have the same amount of teeth on the flywheel.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 06:30 PM   #133
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Re: Swapping out the AOD

well the flywheel came from my 1987 mustang gt with the speed density 5.0, wether its the factory one or not i do not know. It was stamped ford on the back of it. I know if you try to use a truck flywheel with the mustang bell housing something wont work right just cant remember what at the moment.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 07:38 PM   #134
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Did a little digging and found that the aod uses a 164 tooth flex plate. Also read one post where the starters didn't matter but I don't know, I'm still not sold on it being a flywheel issue.

Has to be the depth of the starter or something causing it to grind or sound loud when cranking.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 07:50 PM   #135
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
quote

Starter - The starter from any '85-'92 Mustang 5.0, auto or manual, will work. The '93 and up Mustangs use a high-torque starter which saves weight and space, but costs about $120 more than the standard type. The starters from early 289-302 Fords with automatic transmissions also work, however starters from manual transmission cars of this era seem to have a slightly larger mounting lip and don't fit unless you mill or grind this surface down. Your best bet is to use it as a core at the parts store.

from here

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...wap/index2.php
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 05:50 AM   #136
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Hmmmm..... For chits and giggles I may add one more shim the same thickness of the one I put back in and see if that helps the grinding, if it does I'll know for whatever the reason, my stater needs shimmed.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 06:38 PM   #137
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Fixed my speedometer, must have not have slid it on all the way. Anyone happen to know what gear is for what ratio? I put a brown gear on the end but I also have a yellow and a black speedo gear.

On another note I think that shim did help. When I started it up when testing my speedo it was loud but definately not as loud as i thought.

I'm thinking one more little shim may fix the loudness. I believe it is possibly going too deep and making only half contact with the flywheel.

---------- Post added at 07:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:26 PM ----------

I also checked my fuse panel for unused slots like TH said but I couldn't seem to find any open ones and if there were any they weren't getting power with the key on or off. I poked every slot I could see but couldn't find an empty one.
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 06:38 PM   #138
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Region: Indiana
Posts: 8,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90mustangLX
Fixed my speedometer, must have not have slid it on all the way. Anyone happen to know what gear is for what ratio? I put a brown gear on the end but I also have a yellow and a black speedo gear.

On another note I think that shim did help. When I started it up when testing my speedo it was loud but definately not as loud as i thought.

I'm thinking one more little shim may fix the loudness. I believe it is possibly going too deep and making only half contact with the flywheel.
Cool. More progress.

For the gear just call lrs and give them your info and they will get you the right gear.
dreamstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 07:13 PM   #139
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Re: Swapping out the AOD

#7 is a spare.

Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 07:24 PM   #140
Pete Jones
Regular
 
90mustangLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Region: Ohio
Posts: 781
Send a message via ICQ to 90mustangLX Send a message via AIM to 90mustangLX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse
#7 is a spare.
Hmm, thought I probed all the empty slots but got no power... I'll have to check again tomorrow.

So would you recommend I crimp a male connector on the end and slide it up into the slot?
__________________
90 LX hatchback
(sold but not forgotten)

89 LX Notchback
No motor/trans (for now)
90mustangLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1979-1995 Mustang GT

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


» Like Us On Facebook



03:23 PM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.