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Old 08-17-2012, 07:00 PM   #246
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I do have one issue that's been bugging me. My car will start right up no problem when cold but after driving it and it's warmed up it's like the battery doesn't have enough juice to crank it. It'll crank it so slow it. can't even fire. I bought a cheap battery a little over a year ago (70-80 bucks).

Do you guys think it could just be the battery is dying? I keep a battery tender on it when it's parked in the garage. Or perhaps a ground strap?

Keep in mind it didn't start doing this until this year when it sat all winter long plugged in with the tender because when I took it to the track I could shut it off in the line and it would fire up no problem.
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:08 PM   #247
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its probably getting heat soaked from your headers. or the starter is just worn. i run one of these on mine http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-350118/ it fixed my problem until the starter got worse. once i replaced it i still run the blanket to prolong the life of the starter.

if you are worried about your battery, just check for voltage. do it cold and hot to be sure. should be around 12.4-12.5 volts with the car off and around 14.2-14.5 volts running.
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:17 PM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
its probably getting heat soaked from your headers. or the starter is just worn. i run one of these on mine http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-350118/ it fixed my problem until the starter got worse. once i replaced it i still run the blanket to prolong the life of the starter.

if you are worried about your battery, just check for voltage. do it cold and hot to be sure. should be around 12.4-12.5 volts with the car off and around 14.2-14.5 volts running.
Does it with either starter. The one from my aod did it and so does the oem one from my gt. just thought it was kinda odd that it just up and started doing it. The top of the battery did look a little wet a few months back like maybe the battery tender over juiced it? Wouldn't think it would do that since its just supposed to maintain it.
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:23 PM   #249
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its possible. either that or its just not charging good. either starter could still be getting heat soaked though. especially if you have a header or collector leak on the passenger side.

is the battery warrantied?
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:41 PM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang
its possible. either that or its just not charging good. either starter could still be getting heat soaked though. especially if you have a header or collector leak on the passenger side.

is the battery warrantied?
I think for only a year I'm not sure, might have to get that sleeve anyway just to be on the safe side. I thought about getting one a while back
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:43 PM   #251
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I think for only a year I'm not sure, might have to get that sleeve anyway just to be on the safe side. I thought about getting one a while back
Yeah the sleeve won't hurt anything one bit. Only keep heat off the starter even if that's not fully the problem.

Usually the warrant is marked on the battery.
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:58 PM   #252
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Yeah I'd sleeve it just to be safe. It does sound like heat soak to me especially since it does it with both starters.
We're puttin a sleeve on the mini starter for the BB because they can be finiky plus the headers have huge primary's and a big o'l 4” collector..
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:05 PM   #253
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Would love to get my hands on a high torque mini starter but yeah, sounds like I need to get that sleeve and take it for a spin. Let it get nice and warm, bring it back to the house and shut her down, wait a minute and hit the key to find out if that was the problem.
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:12 PM   #254
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The mini stater was $110 from our local race shop and I think that was a better deal then summit had.
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:20 PM   #255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66
The mini stater was $110 from our local race shop and I think that was a better deal then summit had.
Wwwwhaaaaaat?! 110 no core? That sounds too good to be true!
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:25 PM   #256
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Yeah well it's not the top of the line powder coated uber starter. Just a run of the mill mini lol..
And yes that's without a core
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:09 PM   #257
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Finally got my video uploaded from my phone. This was probably the day after I got everything buttoned up after my swap

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Old 08-21-2012, 07:46 PM   #258
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Finally got my video uploaded from my phone. This was probably the day after I got everything buttoned up after my swap

sweetness
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:50 PM   #259
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Think I MIGHT have figured out the starting issue once warm. I took a look at where my ground from the battery was on my 87 then looked on my 90. I put my ground on the bracket that sits between the power steering and head, on my 87 it was right beside the oil sending unit do I swapped to that spot on my 90, let it run to operating temp.

Rev'd her a little, shut it down then walked away for about 5 minutes, got back in and she cranked over like normal. So I guess the real test will come tomorrow when I drive it into work.

I checked the ground because I read on a google search it could be a poor grounding issue.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:56 PM   #260
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Think I MIGHT have figured out the starting issue once warm. I took a look at where my ground from the battery was on my 87 then looked on my 90. I put my ground on the bracket that sits between the power steering and head, on my 87 it was right beside the oil sending unit do I swapped to that spot on my 90, let it run to operating temp.

Rev'd her a little, shut it down then walked away for about 5 minutes, got back in and she cranked over like normal. So I guess the real test will come tomorrow when I drive it into work.

I checked the ground because I read on a google search it could be a poor grounding issue.
That sounds pretty legit. It shouldn't matter the exact location, but as long as it gets good contact.
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:24 PM   #261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamstang

That sounds pretty legit. It shouldn't matter the exact location, but as long as it gets good contact.
Well I'm thinking maybe that piece is aluminum or somethin that I had it on but I'm not certain, but the new spot is basically right on the side of the block.
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:45 PM   #262
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Re: Swapping out the AOD

Right on the block itself is the best place for the battery ground.
Then you want to make sure any accessory, such as the starter, alternator, etc. that needs a ground is mounted to a clean surface and you really should use a bottoming tap and clean out the threads on the mounting bolts too.

I know that all seems like a lot of trouble, but it ensures that you have good grounds to everything. Also make sure you run grounds from the engine to the frame (if possible connect the frame ground to the battery/block ground) and the firewall to ensure good body and chassis grounds for the ECU, lights, etc..
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:51 PM   #263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse
Right on the block itself is the best place for the battery ground.
Then you want to make sure any accessory, such as the starter, alternator, etc. that needs a ground is mounted to a clean surface and you really should use a bottoming tap and clean out the threads on the mounting bolts too.

I know that all seems like a lot of trouble, but it ensures that you have good grounds to everything. Also make sure you run grounds from the engine to the frame (if possible connect the frame ground to the battery/block ground) and the firewall to ensure good body and chassis grounds for the ECU, lights, etc..
Nah not trouble at all, very good advice to put to good use. Never thought about cleaning out the threads before but it definitely makes sense as you would give it better contact.
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:54 AM   #264
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Gonna drive out to my parents place after work then I will findout if that was the issue all along, I was too scared to shut it off at the gas station this morning to find out
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:06 PM   #265
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Well moving the ground to the block seemed to do that trick! Shut it off and went inside for about 10 mins, came back out and temp was about 210-215ish, hit the key and she cranked right up like nothing.

Just seems odd that it just started doing the slow crank once warm thing this year. I don't remember it doing that last year.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:11 PM   #266
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Quote:
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Well moving the ground to the block seemed to do that trick! Shut it off and went inside for about 10 mins, came back out and temp was about 210-215ish, hit the key and she cranked right up like nothing.

Just seems odd that it just started doing the slow crank once warm thing this year. I don't remember it doing that last year.
grounds can go bad or corrode and get worse over time.

glad to hear though.
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:53 PM   #267
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These are for rm360

The one with the computer plug has 1 green plug near it which you need to verify back taking the kick panel off, the one with the black and grey plugs are by the master cylinder, it also has the EEC-IV plug coming off it. The other shows the maf plug next to the relay which should be mounted on the passenger side engine compartment.

You just need to make sure the maf harness matches your speed density harness plug for plug or it may not work(obviously the speed density will not have the maf plug)
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:27 PM   #268
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Small update, gonna goo my buddies house this weekend an yank all my 5 lug stuff from the wrecked 95 I bought a few yrs back. Then I might tear into mine and at least swap in the rear(sposed to have 3.73s in it).

Going to the track the 28th weather permitting so I'm hoping to get it done by then. Might hold off on doing the front for now because I need 95 ball joints. It'll be nice to have disc brakes in the back, no more sticking drums.

Trojan do you remember what the part number was for the e brake cable for a fox when using a sn95 rear? Also have onw other issue....the tires that are on that car don't have much tread left which ha me wondering how they'll do at the track. Ant remember if they are 16" ponies or 15".
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:47 PM   #269
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good luck man. you got alot of work. if those bald tires can get any traction those 3.73s should defiitly help you achieve your goal.
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:12 PM   #270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90mustangLX
Small update, gonna goo my buddies house this weekend an yank all my 5 lug stuff from the wrecked 95 I bought a few yrs back. Then I might tear into mine and at least swap in the rear(sposed to have 3.73s in it).

Going to the track the 28th weather permitting so I'm hoping to get it done by then. Might hold off on doing the front for now because I need 95 ball joints. It'll be nice to have disc brakes in the back, no more sticking drums.

Trojan do you remember what the part number was for the e brake cable for a fox when using a sn95 rear? Also have onw other issue....the tires that are on that car don't have much tread left which ha me wondering how they'll do at the track. Ant remember if they are 16" ponies or 15".
Here's what you need for the cable:
For the E-brake cables, the 87-92 cars will use the (2) FMS M-2809-A cables. The 93 model year cars will use the 93 Cobra cables (F3ZZ-2A635-A). You will also need an adjustable center cable; (1) FMS M-2810A
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:23 PM   #271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93slowstang

Here's what you need for the cable:
For the E-brake cables, the 87-92 cars will use the (2) FMS M-2809-A cables. The 93 model year cars will use the 93 Cobra cables (F3ZZ-2A635-A). You will also need an adjustable center cable; (1) FMS M-2810A
Thanks 93, probably won't get them right away but they will definately be on my list, just gotta see if I have the extra dough to pick it all up. Do you know if you can get them through Jegs or summit?
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:33 PM   #272
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Here it is on summit: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-2809-A

---------- Post added at 04:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 93slowstang
You'll need 2 of the first one.

Here's the adjustable center on summit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-2810-A/
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:37 PM   #273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93slowstang
Here it is on summit: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-2809-A

---------- Post added at 04:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ----------



You'll need 2 of the first one.

Here's the adjustable center on summit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-2810-A/
Thanks a bunch!
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:39 PM   #274
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No problem, let us know if you need any thing else.
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:33 PM   #275
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Slowstang should work for a mustang parts store. He always knows the right parts for the job.
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:41 PM   #276
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Quote:
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Slowstang should work for a mustang parts store. He always knows the right parts for the job.
Lots and lots of research. I actually had a notebook full of parts, prices, and everyone that sold them so I had a quick reference guide. found out that little ones and notebooks don't mix and can't find it anymore.
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:37 PM   #277
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Lots and lots of research. I actually had a notebook full of parts, prices, and everyone that sold them so I had a quick reference guide. found out that little ones and notebooks don't mix and can't find it anymore.
lol.
I keep links to parts in a folder in my iPad. But really man you do a great job with the parts.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:37 PM   #278
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lol.
I keep links to parts in a folder in my iPad. But really man you do a great job with the parts.
Lol thanks, just like to help people find what they're looking for.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:54 PM   #279
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Quote:
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Lol thanks, just like to help people find what they're looking for.
You know where the weight room is bra? *flexes*

Lol but seriously, I probably would have searched around trying to figure out what all I needed if you hadnt chimed in.

I keep hearing and reading that I'll need the master cylinder and what not from the newer car but have also read and hear that I don't need the parts, I basically have everything but theaster cylinder since a while back a buddy of mine needed one. What do you think?
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:58 PM   #280
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Re: Swapping out the AOD

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You know where the weight room is bra? *flexes*

Lol but seriously, I probably would have searched around trying to figure out what all I needed if you hadnt chimed in.

I keep hearing and reading that I'll need the master cylinder and what not from the newer car but have also read and hear that I don't need the parts, I basically have everything but theaster cylinder since a while back a buddy of mine needed one. What do you think?
You need the master cylinder and proportioning valve. They are different for disk brakes.
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