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Old 06-07-2012, 08:37 PM   #1
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Think i found out whats going on

My car has been having a hesitation till like 4000rpm then the power picks up big. Like its flooding up till its up high enough to actually burn it off. Ok well I unhooked the sensor on top of the throttle body and ran it and it didnt act up any then unplugged the other one on the side of the throttle body and it didn't help or hurt it. I'm thinking the top one is either bad or it's bc it's not the right one. Any input?
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:23 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddhatter88
My car has been having a hesitation till like 4000rpm then the power picks up big. Like its flooding up till its up high enough to actually burn it off. Ok well I unhooked the sensor on top of the throttle body and ran it and it didnt act up any then unplugged the other one on the side of the throttle body and it didn't help or hurt it. I'm thinking the top one is either bad or it's bc it's not the right one. Any input?
Maybe try cleaning the sensor out?
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:50 PM   #3
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How do u do that? And what is it is it the IAC? Or is it the MAP?
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:08 PM   #4
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I'm not sure which it is .. I have a 94 so it's a tad diff..
But they have cleaner in a aerosol can ..use it and maybe some q tips
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:53 PM   #5
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Yea good idea. An the intake and everything is a gt40 so the throttle body is diff to and it looks like he put the stock sensor back on it bc it's cracked and has nuts holding it on. Obviously not stock. Unless its the one from the explorer he got the intake off of

---------- Post added at 10:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 PM ----------

Ok so it's the TPS should I just check it or should I put one from an explorer on it if that one is te one off the stock intake?
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddhatter88
Yea good idea. An the intake and everything is a gt40 so the throttle body is diff to and it looks like he put the stock sensor back on it bc it's cracked and has nuts holding it on. Obviously not stock. Unless its the one from the explorer he got the intake off of

---------- Post added at 10:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 PM ----------

Ok so it's the TPS should I just check it or should I put one from an explorer on it if that one is te one off the stock intake?
I mean if it's the explorer intake I'd assume it would need the TPS from it as well

Lol gotta love when things are janked when I got my car I had so many little things to fix /: ugh and still not done
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:07 PM   #7
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Yea I had to rig a push button to start mine bc the silonoid for the starter is bad and he even has a straight hot wire going from the noid to the started, no interior lights, broke speed cable, etc. lot of little stuff Just enough to aggrivate me lol

---------- Post added at 11:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:06 PM ----------

And how would u tell the diff btwn the stock TPS ad the explorer one?
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddhatter88
Yea I had to rig a push button to start mine bc the silonoid for the starter is bad and he even has a straight hot wire going from the noid to the started, no interior lights, broke speed cable, etc. lot of little stuff Just enough to aggrivate me lol

---------- Post added at 11:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:06 PM ----------

And how would u tell the diff btwn the stock TPS ad the explorer one?
Haha damn bro it amazes me how people do things .. My car had 3 diff kinds of plugs in it , the fuel an air filters looked like they were old as hell. Cloth front seats leather backs .. Cracked fuel lines out of time .. And yeh I hear that jus enought to annoy ya/:

Hmmm that I honestly dont know /:
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:26 PM   #9
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Wow nice! Is yours FI or carb
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Old 06-08-2012, 07:36 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddhatter88
Wow nice! Is yours FI or carb
Hahah yeh .. It's FI .. I'm having trouble with it as well. Won't turn over 3500 rpm .. Pree sure it's the distributor ..
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:03 AM   #11
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My moms Nissan did the same thing and it was the map sensor or something like that. I'll ask her and see what it was
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddhatter88
My moms Nissan did the same thing and it was the map sensor or something like that. I'll ask her and see what it was
Sounds like a plan. How long you had your car
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:34 AM   #13
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Since the middle of may not long at all. This is my first mustang ever
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:44 AM   #14
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Really it won't go over 3500? This is my 2nd FI mustang so I'm still learning about some of the tuning and tweaking myself... Dream and Steve are pretty sharp even though dream has a carb car they will help figure a plan to diagnose it..
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddhatter88
Since the middle of may not long at all. This is my first mustang ever
I got mine in April an it's my first as well
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:47 AM   #16
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you said it wont go over 3500 while driving...will it do it at idle? if it wont go past during idle in a neutral gear or park. it is timing NO DOUBT. another hint would be when you shut off the motor does it blow air/fuel out the intake. if so...TIMING.
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:47 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90GTNovi2000
Really it won't go over 3500? This is my 2nd FI mustang so I'm still learning about some of the tuning and tweaking myself... Dream and Steve are pretty sharp even though dream has a carb car they will help figure a plan to diagnose it..
Yeh it falls in its face at 3500 runs hard up to then ... I've had people say its a bad dist
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:49 AM   #18
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My last post was another guys quote from another forum..
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90GTNovi2000
you said it wont go over 3500 while driving...will it do it at idle? if it wont go past during idle in a neutral gear or park. it is timing NO DOUBT. another hint would be when you shut off the motor does it blow air/fuel out the intake. if so...TIMING.
It won't turn it over 3500 at an idle either .. .. And would I just have someone listen for that?

And I've had it retimed and pulled the spout connector out when I did it too.. : confused:
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:52 AM   #20
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Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:57 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90GTNovi2000
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Holy confused lol/:

I had a guy run a scanner and nothing came back .. It said unable to read ...
But I will try this method for sure cuz I want the thing runnin right ..
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:58 AM   #22
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A faulty MAP sensor would affect the air/fuel ratio, causing the engine to have either too little or too much fuel.

The TFI module mounted on the distributor is usually the culprit for a high speed miss on a warm engine. If the problem does not occur when the engine is cold, the TFI module is definitely suspect. You may need a special socket to remove the TFI module, but most auto parts stores will have one for $5-$7.
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:18 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90GTNovi2000
A faulty MAP sensor would affect the air/fuel ratio, causing the engine to have either too little or too much fuel.

The TFI module mounted on the distributor is usually the culprit for a high speed miss on a warm engine. If the problem does not occur when the engine is cold, the TFI module is definitely suspect. You may need a special socket to remove the TFI module, but most auto parts stores will have one for $5-$7.
MAP? And the funny thing is my car runs better when it's hot ... Won't turn over 2k when it's cold
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Old 06-08-2012, 12:09 PM   #24
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Yea that's what we replaced on my moms Nissan it did throw a code or nothing and doing the same stuff urs is like I said earlier
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddhatter88
Yea that's what we replaced on my moms Nissan it did throw a code or nothing and doing the same stuff urs is like I said earlier
What's the map tho?
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:36 PM   #26
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This is an example
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:38 PM   #27
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This is where it's mounted.
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:43 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90GTNovi2000
This is where it's mounted.
Thanks man! And thanks for all the help.. So what does it do ?

---------- Post added at 12:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:40 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm13_5.0

Thanks man! And thanks for all the help.. So what does it do ?
Is that on a fox ?
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:46 PM   #29
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The manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP sensor) is one of the sensors used in an internal combustion engine's electronic control system. Engines that use a MAP sensor are typically fuel injected. The manifold absolute pressure sensor provides instantaneous manifold pressure information to the engine's electronic control unit (ECU). The data is used to calculate air density and determine the engine's air mass flow rate, which in turn determines the required fuel metering for optimum combustion.

---------- Post added at 01:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------

Yes that's a 90' lx
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:49 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90GTNovi2000
The manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP sensor) is one of the sensors used in an internal combustion engine's electronic control system. Engines that use a MAP sensor are typically fuel injected. The manifold absolute pressure sensor provides instantaneous manifold pressure information to the engine's electronic control unit (ECU). The data is used to calculate air density and determine the engine's air mass flow rate, which in turn determines the required fuel metering for optimum combustion.

---------- Post added at 01:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------

Yes that's a 90' lx
Ohh so it's pretty important ! And I'm not finding it on mine .. But it prolly needs replaced on it anyways
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:04 PM   #31
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It should be on the air intake tube between the filter and throttle body

---------- Post added at 03:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:02 PM ----------

Dvm I had a blonde moment dnt listen to me
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