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Old 09-26-2012, 03:45 PM   #1
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FMS ac elimator

I know I've been posting a lot. I have several parts to go on here. When I get frustrated with one, I box and bag, and try the next! Workin good so far. Ive taken all compressor/condenser off as one. Question one: is there any other way than a sawsall to get the copper pipe from the firewall to let me do what I want? Question two: how do these relocation brackets exactly work? Appreciate any input as always guys!
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Old 09-26-2012, 04:09 PM   #2
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The bracket will just bolt to the head. I attached a pic so you can see. The other bracket goes on the water pump bolts.

As for the tubes on the firewall, you may have to take the dash apart to physically remove them. That's why everyone just cuts them off. If you go to the auto parts store you can find these fancy little rubber caps so it doesn't look crappy. But I would get the caps first so you don't cut them to short.
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:21 PM   #3
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Unless you live in a moderately temperate climate or are building a race only car, I wouldn't remove the AC. At some point you will wish you hadn't and buying all the parts new is prohibitively expensive.
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:02 PM   #4
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I took all my ac off as one piece(except that copper line...lol!) I keep ALL my old parts. Almost there. School M-TH and work F-SAT leaves my time stranded. My wife was helpin me buy she went to get my daughters. Were gonna make it a family thing!
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:45 PM   #5
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I took all my ac off as one piece(except that copper line...lol!) I keep ALL my old parts. Almost there. School M-TH and work F-SAT leaves my time stranded. My wife was helpin me buy she went to get my daughters. Were gonna make it a family thing!
Be sure you plug and cap off any and all hoses and fittings on the compressor if you ever plan to use them again.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:26 PM   #6
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Parts store only had a 73 1/2" belt and a 72 5/8. Big one was too big. Purdy sure the small one is too small? Whines like a gear drive timing and overheats. Am I halfass right or do I have deeper problems?:headpalm
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:30 PM   #7
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Parts store only had a 73 1/2" belt and a 72 5/8. Big one was too big. Purdy sure the small one is too small? Whines like a gear drive timing and overheats. Am I halfass right or do I have deeper problems?:headpalm
1/8 different shouldnt be , one big and one small.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:37 PM   #8
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1/8 different shouldnt be , one big and one small.
Wouldn't that be a 1/4 inch? Or are you goin an 1/8 to the side? Not playin math games, just tryin to figure where I f**ed up. Don't know a lot about belt differences.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:45 PM   #9
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Wouldn't that be a 1/4 inch? Or are you goin an 1/8 to the side? Not playin math games, just tryin to figure where I f**ed up. Don't know a lot about belt differences.
oh sorry. i thought you said 73 5/8 . i would try another auto parts store. sometimes different stores carry different lengths.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:06 PM   #10
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Yea man. They said they ordered 73" and these are the options I was given when I got there... Man! It sure sounded good till till that temp gauge started climbing. Haven't heard it in over a month! Thanks for answering before I had a chance to drive myself crazy dream!
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:08 PM   #11
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Yea man. They said they ordered 73" and these are the options I was given when I got there... Man! It sure sounded good till till that temp gauge started climbing. Haven't heard it in over a month! Thanks for answering before I had a chance to drive myself crazy dream!
yeah they come in wierd sizes. but like i said i have had that issue and went to a different aout store and was able to find an in between size. im not positive thats your overheating issue but i would definitly make sure you have the right belt.

and your welcome.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91notchback
Parts store only had a 73 1/2" belt and a 72 5/8. Big one was too big. Purdy sure the small one is too small? Whines like a gear drive timing and overheats. Am I halfass right or do I have deeper problems?:headpalm
By the way: I also eliminated my egr. Not that it would cause the problem I'm having, just to clear this part up.
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:47 AM   #13
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By the way: I also eliminated my egr. Not that it would cause the problem I'm having, just to clear this part up.
Are you referring to the overheating?
Maybe the belt is slipping on the water pump drive pulley or you have it turning backwards?
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:03 PM   #14
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Are you referring to the overheating?
Maybe the belt is slipping on the water pump drive pulley or you have it turning backwards?
Do you mean with the ribbed side out? I put it flat side out. I'm gonna take a look at it today when I get off work. It got dark on me last night.
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:45 PM   #15
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Do you mean with the ribbed side out? I put it flat side out. I'm gonna take a look at it today when I get off work. It got dark on me last night.
Yes the ribbed side out. The flat side usually drives the water pump pulley. Take a picture of the belt installed so we can ensure it is on correctly and turning the pump in the right direction. With the pump being driven by the flat side of the belt you also need to have a considerable amount of contact area so it does not slip.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:49 PM   #16
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Here is my belt setup. I questioned the belt coming together at the tensioner. I thought it wasn't going to get hot just now but it rocketed up to 3/4 of the gauge.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:58 PM   #17
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Here's a pic that may help ya
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:02 PM   #18
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I ordered a 73" belt and they presented a 72 5/8" belt... Real nice guys!!lol Is the belt supposed to run together at the tensioner? Will a belt that's too tight cause worries? Just thinkin out loud here...:confused
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:14 PM   #19
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I ordered a 73" belt and they presented a 72 5/8" belt... Real nice guys!!lol Is the belt supposed to run together at the tensioner? Will a belt that's too tight cause worries? Just thinkin out loud here...:confused
I forget the exact, but I wanna say there should be about 1/2" of deflection in the belt in the longest straight path.

Usually if its to tight, yes it can wear bearings. But most likely if it was to tight then you wouldnt get it on.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:28 PM   #20
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Here is my belt setup. I questioned the belt coming together at the tensioner. I thought it wasn't going to get hot just now but it rocketed up to 3/4 of the gauge.
You have to be careful at that point and make sure the belt does not rub against itself at the tensioner, there is not much room for error.


Are you sure you got all of the air out of the cooling system?
Sounds like it may have some in it yet.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:33 PM   #21
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That's what my pops asked me. It wasn't a fight to get on or anything. Just one of those things that needs figured out I guess. Nothin that a short day of class and a day full of tinker time can't figure out!

---------- Post added at 07:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 PM ----------

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You have to be careful at that point and make sure the belt does not rub against itself at the tensioner, there is not much room for error.

Are you sure you got all of the air out of the cooling system?
Sounds like it may have some in it yet.
I don't see how I'm gonna get away from it rubbing TH. It would have to be shorter IMO? What is best way to get the air out? I ran upon that problem before while working on a *ugghh* 350 Chevy.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:38 PM   #22
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That's what my pops asked me. It wasn't a fight to get on or anything. Just one of those things that needs figured out I guess. Nothin that a short day of class and a day full of tinker time can't figure out!

---------- Post added at 07:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 PM ----------



I don't see how I'm gonna get away from it rubbing TH. It would have to be shorter IMO? What is best way to get the air out? I ran upon that problem before while working on a *ugghh* 350 Chevy.
Why do you say it is small if it wasn't a fight to get on? I have used belts that were somewhat tight getting on and never had an issue. If you are going off the chart that floats around here , it is just to get you close. I wouldn't consider that written in stone. The belt should be small enough to raise the gap by the tensioner some.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:49 PM   #23
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Make sure the water pump always turns counterclockwise! Hope that helps
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:55 PM   #24
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Make sure the water pump always turns counterclockwise! Hope that helps
Counterclockwise as I'm standing in front of the car looking at it?

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Why do you say it is small if it wasn't a fight to get on? I have used belts that were somewhat tight getting on and never had an issue. If you are going off the chart that floats around here , it is just to get you close. I wouldn't consider that written in stone. The belt should be small enough to raise the gap by the tensioner some.
I just ain't that familiar with using different belts man. Going by what you say, it was just fine. I held tensioner up with a socket and ratchet and my wife put it on. Ignorance is bliss...lol!
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:01 PM   #25
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Counterclockwise as I'm standing in front of the car looking at it?

---------- Post added at 07:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:53 PM ----------



I just ain't that familiar with using different belts man. Going by what you say, it was just fine. I held tensioner up with a socket and ratchet and my wife put it on. Ignorance is bliss...lol!
And I guess with you saying that, I need to get a smaller belt. It is resting on top of the other side of the belt below it. I might sound like an idiot here but that ain't never bothered me...I just wanna learn!
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:02 PM   #26
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Counterclockwise as I'm standing in front of the car looking at it?

---------- Post added at 07:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:53 PM ----------



I just ain't that familiar with using different belts man. Going by what you say, it was just fine. I held tensioner up with a socket and ratchet and my wife put it on. Ignorance is bliss...lol!
i use a large ratchet. when i pull up on it i stick a 2x4 from the core support to the engine under the ratchet to hold it.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:07 PM   #27
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Cool man. I think you just sent me in the right direction. What is the best way to belch air from the coolant lines? Gonna hit this hard and heavy on Monday!
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:11 PM   #28
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when you fill it up its best to leave the plug off on the thermostat housing. but not neccasary. you can just leave the radiator cap off and let it get warmed up. as the thermostat opens it should start burping. add coolant as needed.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:16 PM   #29
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10-4. Will do. Thanks for all your help so far man! Feels good doin my own wrenchin and gettin the old hands dirty!!
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:18 PM   #30
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no problem and good luck!
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:30 PM   #31
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FOX BODIES...
8 hours wrenching = 1 hour driving!
Its a love lol.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:34 PM   #32
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Yea man. It's been sitting a month. Was having hella idle trouble. Vac lines to smog were trashed, I found out after doing nearly every test in the stickies thread!lol Before I knew it, the a/c didn't work, so it was gone too! It sounded DAMN good before it got hot. It's a labor of love...
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:05 PM   #33
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when you fill it up its best to leave the plug off on the thermostat housing. but not necessary. you can just leave the radiator cap off and let it get warmed up. as the thermostat opens it should start burping. add coolant as needed.
This^^ and notice how the top hose is higher than the radiator tank inlet? Carefully push it down with something to ensure all the air gets pushed into the radiator where it can get out. Some air will always remain at the top of the radiator tank to allow for expansion, but you want to get as much as possible out when filling.

P.S. You might be better off belt wise to have the idler that replaces the smog pump if it's going to rub.
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:50 AM   #34
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FOX BODIES...
8 hours wrenching = 1 hour driving!
Its a love lol.
Just bought my first mustang two weeks ago, drove it for five days, been working on it for over a week undrivable, all love
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:20 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

This^^ and notice how the top hose is higher than the radiator tank inlet? Carefully push it down with something to ensure all the air gets pushed into the radiator where it can get out. Some air will always remain at the top of the radiator tank to allow for expansion, but you want to get as much as possible out when filling.

P.S. You might be better off belt wise to have the idler that replaces the smog pump if it's going to rub.
Or the march alternator delete bracket, 60 bucks and gets to of the stock tensioner . Switches over to a turn buckle style.
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