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Old 10-06-2012, 12:56 AM   #1
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Complete tear down and rebuild

About 8 hours ago hey flatbed was at my house to pick up my mustang to completely rebuild the motor for about 1300 bucks and there were going to throw in a stage 2 cam and some other parts I have to speak with them about that any suggestions anyone
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:40 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by laroc88lxho View Post
About 8 hours ago hey flatbed was at my house to pick up my mustang to completely rebuild the motor for about 1300 bucks and there were going to throw in a stage 2 cam and some other parts I have to speak with them about that any suggestions anyone
$1300 isn't much to R&R an engine and rebuild it.
Exactly what are you getting for that?
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:57 AM   #3
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Here is a list of the following services and parts re ground crank shaft re ground camshaft new cam bearings new rod bearings new pistons new rings new main bearings new full gasket set new freeze plugs new plane lifters timing chain new oil pump resurface heads new valve seals honing block cut files paint block an oil pan new oil filter new spark plugs all for about 1300 bucks at UMass Sheen shop in Pomona California um it's called the house of engines
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:32 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by laroc88lxho View Post
Here is a list of the following services and parts re ground crank shaft re ground camshaft new cam bearings new rod bearings new pistons new rings new main bearings new full gasket set new freeze plugs new plane lifters timing chain new oil pump resurface heads new valve seals honing block cut files paint block an oil pan new oil filter new spark plugs all for about 1300 bucks at UMass Sheen shop in Pomona California um it's called the house of engines
Ok, thanks for getting that info for me.

It appears that you are getting a basic rings, bearings, gaskets and seals overhaul. What are your plans as far as future engine mods?
What year car/engine are you working on?
What mods do you currently have?
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:06 PM   #5
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The vehicle I am working on is a 1988 5.0 mustang LX convertible with an H O it's pretty much stock except for the rear end I have 37 three's and a stage 2 clutch the guy at the machine shop said I can put a stage 2 cam on there but I don't know which combination I should go with any suggestions for the stock motor that will be basically rebuilt
Thank you very much and God bless you
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:16 AM   #6
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The vehicle I am working on is a 1988 5.0 mustang LX convertible with an H O it's pretty much stock except for the rear end I have 37 three's and a stage 2 clutch the guy at the machine shop said I can put a stage 2 cam on there but I don't know which combination I should go with any suggestions for the stock motor that will be basically rebuilt
Thank you very much and God bless you
Changing just the cam isn't going to benefit you much.
I would save up for an HCI or Top End kit (heads, cam & intake).
There are Trick Flow kits that will net you around 350 HP at the flywheel.
Link > Trick Flow HCI
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:06 AM   #7
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The best cam for a stock motor is the stock cam!! Swap in a set of 1.7 rocker arms , make sure you have PVC
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:09 AM   #8
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This seems like a good chance to ask a question I've had. In a few months, I'm going to rebuild the bottom end and get a Trick Flow top end kit. What is the difference in the track heat and street burner kits? Which would be the best for a car that sees highway use? I want it to have a lot of power, but still have semi decent street manners.
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:40 AM   #9
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The track kit works better at higher rpm thus giving you that extra 10 or so hp they say over the street kit. If your using it on the street and mainly stay at lower rpm then stick with street kit.
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:18 PM   #10
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Im gona call the machine shop now to see what thay done
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:02 PM   #11
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I spoke with him about 2 hours ago and he told me that they were pulling the engine out as we speak and he would let me know if there were any further problems but I gave him the car in good running condition there shouldn't be any problems
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:54 PM   #12
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I called the machine shop in there waiting on the pistons and the block to come back from the machine shop my name Mustang won't be done until Wednesday I know it sucks what is still be pretty fresh do told me he was going to put a double roller timing chain stage 2 cam cut the valves in the seats auto make a bigger some s*** f*** yeah that's it
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:03 PM   #13
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It already comes with a double roller timing chain... Don't ever think those need replacing? But I'm no expert on that... Where's Trojan man?
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:42 AM   #14
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It already comes with a double roller timing chain... Don't ever think those need replacing? But I'm no expert on that... Where's Trojan man?
Yes even the double roller chains tend to stretch over time and need replacing.
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:15 AM   #15
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Yes even the double roller chains tend to stretch over time and need replacing.
Gear drives don't stretch. And they sound bad a$$
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:58 PM   #16
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Gear drives don't stretch. And they sound bad a$$
Too noisy for my taste.
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Old 10-13-2012, 01:08 PM   #17
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Too noisy for my taste.
Not me. Although I.can't hear mine over the 10s. It seems like once it broke in it got quieter. next time I will use a Pete Jackson.
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:43 PM   #18
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Some gear drives can cause problems with EFI, darned if I can remember exactly why though.

Me, I want a belt drive, but they are to darned expensive, so double roller it is.
I like this set up the best - Rollmaster Timing Set SBF
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:07 PM   #19
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Im on chill now car will be freshly rebuild the brake in how would have I done that I think I got en idea suggestions please
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