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Old 10-12-2012, 04:54 PM   #1
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Exclamation dead car after 2 days

lets make this one as simple as i can. 95 gt 5.0, I have been removing some odd wiring from the car ( some goofball ran pretty blue wire all over the place and most of them dead end) what i have removed so far: 4 inch dash tach (no use it wasnt set right and it was spliced into the ignition wire and hard wired into the fuse box). replaced the angel eye lights with new eagle eyes, old lights were hard wired for some dumb *** reason, used the original connectors and it works fine. stereo (aftermkt) was wired hot, not now. also there is what appears to be a relay under the steering column that i cannot figure out where the wires go or what they run. my issue is if the car sits for more than 48 hours the battery is dead. i cannot find anything that is staying on or drawing power. ( new battery)it has an alarm system but i do not set it, and ill be removing it this weekend. this may not have anything to do with the issue but the fan does not work when connected to the CCRM it was also hard wired to run al the time ( again i cannot find where they connected it at so i placed an after maket thermo switch and it works great).
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:25 PM   #2
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Use a DMM to do a parasitic draw test. Something has to be draining the batt.
As long as the batt is good and will hold it's charge that is.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXSTEVEO66
Use a DMM to do a parasitic draw test. Something has to be draining the batt.
As long as the batt is good and will hold it's charge that is.
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Old 10-13-2012, 01:31 AM   #4
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Where do I get one. And yes batt is new.
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:19 AM   #5
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You can get a DMM at a parts store you can also use a test light if you have one. What you do is hook up between the battery negative post and the negative battery cable then then take the cable off of the post and if your DMM reads .05 amps or higher then you have a problem or if the test light comes on. Then to figure out what is still drawing power you start pulling fuses one at a time and when the amperage goes below .05 you found your problem. Once you pull a fuse out don't put it back in it could power something up if its a fuse for a module. This is done with the car off by the way.
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:12 PM   #6
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Great ill try the test light first. makes perfect sense. Thanks again once I get this fixed ill probably have another post lol. New to the mustangs.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:53 PM   #7
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Well I found it its the 2d ign switch fuse and the hd lp fuse I'm trying to locate a good wire schematic for this so I can begin trailing.g them to the short. Any suggestions Google is helping but only a little and the chiltons I have doesn't have a great schematic to specify that fuse.

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Old 10-24-2012, 12:53 PM   #8
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So I also found a diagram that shows the parking break light included in the ignition wiring circuit and harness. So my p light is on at all times. I'm pulling the switch today to see if its a part of the issue. I know I ramble on in here but my wife looks at me like what are u talking about, lol thanks again all.
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:01 AM   #9
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Fixed it. After I pulled the fender, I pulled the kick panel and found yet another spliced wire. Why you would hard wire the electric seat to the ignition switch is beyond me. Also found the tps at 1.36 v. Set at .97 now runs way better. On to the next issue. Alignment and new 4 link. Getn beter every day.
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:42 PM   #10
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Good to hear man. Sounds like you are getting it figured out.
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