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Old 10-12-2012, 05:59 PM   #1
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5.0 First Time Teardown

Hey everyone, I'm back with another question here. So tomorrow I will be getting my car towed to a garage so that I can get to the bottom of this, my 1988 302 is drinking coolant, I havent figured out if its the gaskets, or heads but I know coolant is getting in somehow. Rough idle, surging, vapor out of the exhaust (mostly passenger side so I think its on that cylinder bank) I changed the oil yesterday and within the three days or so that I was driving it unaware of the coolant issue the oil turned black not milky, so I am hoping coolant is getting into the combustion chamber and not the oil in general, I havent checked for clean spark plugs yet. Any advice on this?? I am going to be up against a wall time wise to some extent (I know far from ideal) any help advice, online guides, or even well wishing would be very much appreciated. Ill try to put some pics up of the process but well see how this all goes...
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:59 PM   #2
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Hey everyone, I'm back with another question here. So tomorrow I will be getting my car towed to a garage so that I can get to the bottom of this, my 1988 302 is drinking coolant, I havent figured out if its the gaskets, or heads but I know coolant is getting in somehow. Rough idle, surging, vapor out of the exhaust (mostly passenger side so I think its on that cylinder bank) I changed the oil yesterday and within the three days or so that I was driving it unaware of the coolant issue the oil turned black not milky, so I am hoping coolant is getting into the combustion chamber and not the oil in general, I havent checked for clean spark plugs yet. Any advice on this?? I am going to be up against a wall time wise to some extent (I know far from ideal) any help advice, online guides, or even well wishing would be very much appreciated. Ill try to put some pics up of the process but well see how this all goes...
Hopefully it did stay out of the oil. The antifreeze can destroy a set of engine bearings pretty quickly.


Just pull the intake, remove the heads and see what you have. Check the block and heads for cracks too while they are off.
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:48 PM   #3
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Hopefully it did stay out of the oil. The antifreeze can destroy a set of engine bearings pretty quickly.

Just pull the intake, remove the heads and see what you have. Check the block and heads for cracks too while they are off.
also, alot of times these issues could be caused from extreme heat of pressure. so its probably a good idea to check for warpage. if you have a good straight edge you cam lay it flat against all the mounting flanges. then use some feeler gauges. if you can fit a .004" gauge anywhere then that a problem.
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:37 AM   #4
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Okay so, oil prior to change 4 days ago turned black in about 3 days of use unaware of the coolant issue, so I had guessed at heat. I got the Intake, intake Man, CAI, Alt, Dist, Valve cover off today, I also have the heads unbolted and obviuosly the entire harness, spark plugs are off, fuel rail. So hopefully sometime this week I can get the compressor of and deleted (it didnt work) Heads off sent for machining ( all original gaskets on this thing... 95k-120+ is my guestimated range, Previous (2nd) owner said odometer went out about a year ago and he has supposedly driven it 5-9 times since then... needless to say pieces of gasket were in the spring/pushrod assembly... not too much coolant in the oil ...? I may get my old oil analyzed. I have a full gasket set and PRG Head Bolts. The plan is to put everything back together Saturday with new oil/filter, coolant, compress delete, Ram air delete(I may wait), new fuel filter, Power Steering fluid, clutch fluid change maybe new or 2nd bat (in trunk). I plan on doing a suspension grease maybe new bushings soon, I have torn CV boots in the front, with not much grease havent noticed clicking, but may do a 5 bolt conversion in a few months or after the snow. Not really sure where to go from here though... also any EFI Speed Density 302 rebuilds in guide or video format would be very helpful
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:06 AM   #5
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Okay so, oil prior to change 4 days ago turned black in about 3 days of use unaware of the coolant issue, so I had guessed at heat. I got the Intake, intake Man, CAI, Alt, Dist, Valve cover off today, I also have the heads unbolted and obviuosly the entire harness, spark plugs are off, fuel rail. So hopefully sometime this week I can get the compressor of and deleted (it didnt work) Heads off sent for machining ( all original gaskets on this thing... 95k-120+ is my guestimated range, Previous (2nd) owner said odometer went out about a year ago and he has supposedly driven it 5-9 times since then... needless to say pieces of gasket were in the spring/pushrod assembly... not too much coolant in the oil ...? I may get my old oil analyzed. I have a full gasket set and PRG Head Bolts. The plan is to put everything back together Saturday with new oil/filter, coolant, compress delete, Ram air delete(I may wait), new fuel filter, Power Steering fluid, clutch fluid change maybe new or 2nd bat (in trunk). I plan on doing a suspension grease maybe new bushings soon, I have torn CV boots in the front, with not much grease havent noticed clicking, but may do a 5 bolt conversion in a few months or after the snow. Not really sure where to go from here though... also any EFI Speed Density 302 rebuilds in guide or video format would be very helpful
What CV boots? Mustangs are not front wheel drive?
Sorry, but you won't find any free rebuild videos.
There are some minimal vids on you tube that lead to pay vids though.
You can get a rebuild guide in the Chiltons or Ford Service manuals.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:53 PM   #6
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What CV boots? Mustangs are not front wheel drive?
Sorry, but you won't find any free rebuild videos.
There are some minimal vids on you tube that lead to pay vids though.
You can get a rebuild guide in the Chiltons or Ford Service manuals.
Correction, I have torn rubber boots in the front lol
and I have the Chiltons guide
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:15 PM   #7
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Correction, I have torn rubber boots in the front lol
and I have the Chiltons guide
Oh ok, on the ball joints then.
The Chiltons book is all I had for my first rebuild, surely they have improved enough to serve even better today. I'll have to drag my newest one out and review it to see what they may have left out sometime.
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:19 PM   #8
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Oh ok, on the ball joints then.
The Chiltons book is all I had for my first rebuild, surely they have improved enough to serve even better today. I'll have to drag my newest one out and review it to see what they may have left out sometime.
Thanks a lot, Mine is older than I am and the most Ive ever done with a car previously was oil/filter, coolant, and minor intake mods... oh plus electrical and audio so any help would be great!
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:36 PM   #9
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Okay, So today I got the heads off, and theyre in need of machining, so the question is do I spend 200ish per head for the machine shop or do I buy a new one? I am closing in on my budget for this stage of the rebuild so whats the opinion, I suppose I could get a port and polish too, but idk about pricing. Thanks in advance guys
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:46 PM   #10
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You could find some decent remanufactured Iron GT40's for $300-500. I'd do that if that's all you have. Otherwise you could look for some used aluminum heads. Most likely you will buy them eventually anyway.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:00 PM   #11
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I just looked for about an hour I could not really find much, don't want to switch to gt40p because of the issues with headers, mine are aftermarket but I don't know what, I just bought her and I'm still discovering quite a bit, long story short, can I get any help finding some heads, I need them by Saturday. I will continue looking and thanks again for all the help.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:02 PM   #12
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I'll look around but Saturday might be cutting it close.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:11 PM   #13
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Here's one set, $500 OBO, a little high.

For Sale 308 short block, gt40 heads, 1.6 rockers, aftermarket cam - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:18 PM   #14
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PAIR OF GT40 CYL. HEADS
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:53 AM   #15
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Got the guy down to 350 but its a bit of a drive...
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:22 AM   #16
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Have them shipped.
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:06 PM   #17
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So I had them sent out today, my heads that is, I don't want to make any promises but I may try at a rebuild video this Saturday.
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:15 PM   #18
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Okay cool! If you weren't in such a hurry you would have found some for a good deal
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:21 PM   #19
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Okay cool! If you weren't in such a hurry you would have found some for a good deal
+ 1
patience is virtue grasshopper!
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:33 AM   #20
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+ 1
patience is virtue grasshopper!
Yeah, But it is my dd and I need it for work, also its sitting in a garage I rent time at and if I dont finish by Saturday theyll do the work @ $90 so...

Also is it worth having them port and polished, i havent gotten word on prices
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:20 AM   #21
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I would spend as little as possible on the stick heads.
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:29 PM   #22
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I would spend as little as possible on the stock heads.
+1
Rebuild and port match to the gaskets. Anything more is really just a waste of time and money IMO.
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:35 AM   #23
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+1
Rebuild and port match to the gaskets.
Wait would the machine shop handle that or could an experienced tech handle that potentially?
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:13 AM   #24
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Wait would the machine shop handle that or could an experienced tech handle that potentially?
You would have to have a machine shop do the rebuild as specialized equipment is required, but if you own a die grinder/dremel (Note: Dremels are ok, but they are a bit small for this kind of work.) and some carbide grinding/cutting bits you could do the gasket port matching yourself.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:40 PM   #25
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Well guys the moment has come, heads should be back from the machine shop by now, waking up bright and early on my day off getting some filters and spark plugs from a local dealership, as I want motocraft parts but cant find them at autopart places in the area. Gonna round up a few friends and get my 5.0 back on the road at this point I have had the car non-working/garaged longer than Ive owned it working I just want my car back.
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