302 break in - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1979-1995 Mustang GT



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 10-15-2012, 01:58 AM   #1
Registered Member
Regular
 
laroc88lxho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: California
Posts: 25
302 break in

I recently had my Mustang motor rebuilt and I I am trying to get some information on how to properly break in the engine
laroc88lxho is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-15-2012, 06:06 AM   #2
Registered Member
Regular
 
rwsmith3623's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by laroc88lxho
I recently had my Mustang motor rebuilt and I I am trying to get some information on how to properly break in the engine
I'm sure you'll get a hundred different answers from a hundred different people, but I've always been told 30 minutes idling to start, then run through 1 full tank of gas at nothing over 3k rpms, change your oil, and then run through another full tank of gas at the same rpms.
rwsmith3623 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2012, 07:10 AM   #3
Registered Member
Regular
 
89 coupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Region: Ohio
Posts: 132
Hears the way I do it and it works for me. Check all fluids. Start your motor, set timing, set fuel pressure, check water. Idle to operating temp check for leaks, then let it run 30 min.

Next day change oil and filter, start motor again check for leaks. Allow to warm up to operation temp. Check clutch adjustment and fuel level. Drive vehicle and allow engine to slow you down when ever possible. Drive easy.

Once you get a hundred miles change oil and filter. Drive the same till you feel comfortable. I give mine about a thousand miles before ripping it.

Now this is my opinion and it works for me. Yes I change oil a lot because it costs me $20 and 20 minutes. I have $6100 in my motor, so I have more time then money.
89 coupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-15-2012, 07:35 AM   #4
Registered Member
Regular
 
WhiteCobra94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Region: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,435
I was told to start it up and let in idle to operating temp , 3 times. Change oil every 500 miles for 1,500 miles then I'm good !

I did everything except I've only drove car for 324 miles since May .
WhiteCobra94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2012, 04:22 PM   #5
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Like previously stated you will get lots of different opinions.

The key is to cycle it through several heating and cooling cycles to help seat in the rings, seals and gaskets. Re-torque the head bolts (if needed, some gaskets do not require this, but a check is always good) and inspect for any leaks.


I try to drive mine easy for the first 500 miles, running the RPMs up and down the scale as is appropriate to the road conditions, but not over 3-4k or so. Then I change the oil and drive it like I'm going to from there on out changing the oil at 1k and 1.5k miles until I reach around 5k miles.
I use a plain old petroleum based oil for the first 3000-5000 miles then switch to synthetic if that is what I plan to use. This gives the rings time to seat in good for a better seal.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2012, 11:12 PM   #6
Registered Member
Regular
 
laroc88lxho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: California
Posts: 25
Thank you for your information please submit more ideas for me thank you the more I know the better my motor will run thanks to you
laroc88lxho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2012, 02:19 AM   #7
Registered Member
Regular
 
Sybesma07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Region: Kansas
Posts: 180
Drive it like you stole it haha. I would just drive it 300 to 500 miles but slowly get on it during those miles. Not just hammer the gas but gradually get into it. Let all the gasket and rings seal an then get on it. Change oil and should be good. Some will say get on it right away and some will tell you to baby it.
Sybesma07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2012, 02:26 AM   #8
Registered Member
Regular
 
Sybesma07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Region: Kansas
Posts: 180
With the new mustangs. The computer won't allow you to get on it until 500 miles.
Sybesma07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2012, 01:19 PM   #9
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sybesma07 View Post
With the new mustangs. The computer won't allow you to get on it until 500 miles.
That's because more and more people know less and less about mechanical things.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 06:44 PM   #10
Registered Member
Regular
 
Billymich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Chicago
Region: Illinois
Posts: 861
Do I need to allow for a break in period after remanufacturing the heads and doing new gaskets etc?
Billymich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 06:59 PM   #11
Registered Member
Regular
 
89 coupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Region: Ohio
Posts: 132
Usually break-in is for the bottom end of the motor like rings and bearings.
89 coupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2012, 06:48 PM   #12
Registered Member
Regular
 
laroc88lxho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: California
Posts: 25
Well today I went to go pick it up and the fan bearing went bad right away the fan was not turning at all luckily I was still at the machine shop a new clutch bearing cost 85 dollars needed to be re installed other than that it sounded smoooth and it's a good things I did not let the engine the warm up no catastrophe just small things lack of attention to detail so I'm going to have to wait until Monday and then we'll see
laroc88lxho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2012, 07:57 PM   #13
Registered Member
Regular
 
Mike90's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 130
It's a roller cam, no cam break in needed. Let it warm to normal operating
temp, check for leaks and ****. Then drive it like you stole it....
__________________
They say the good die young,
I plan on living forever!!
Mike90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2012, 04:03 AM   #14
Registered Member
Regular
 
laroc88lxho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: California
Posts: 25
Lol I practically did steal it for 1200 dollars pretty soon I'm going to post some pictures I'm just getting over not getting my Mustang today it's pretty cool I found out they bored it out 30 over and also clutch had no back pressure like the sweet spot was basically at the floor and they lost my K&N air filter
laroc88lxho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2012, 07:02 AM   #15
Registered Member
Regular
 
91notchback's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Region: Texas
Posts: 493
Sounds like your clutch fork needs to be adjusted. Are they replacing your K&N?
91notchback is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2012, 09:53 AM   #16
Registered Member
Regular
 
89 coupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Region: Ohio
Posts: 132
I like my clutch right at the top so all I have to do is bump and shift. Please say your running some type of an air filter for now instead of nothing.
89 coupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2012, 12:07 PM   #17
Registered Member
Regular
 
Jar72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Albany
Region: Georgia
Posts: 127
I've all ways done it this way. Good non synthetic oil , idle 30 min the recheck timing and settings, take it for a spin drive normal, after its been at running temp for a little while , hit it half throttle listen for pings and noises do it again. After the second time rail that throttle. Last be nice to it for a couple tanks of fuel change the oil after 5 to 600 miles put a good synthetic in and enjoy it .
__________________
JMF
Jar72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2012, 12:54 PM   #18
Registered Member
Regular
 
Mike90's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Region: Louisiana
Posts: 130
Yeah listen for odd noises, I wouldn't try to advance timing past 108 until you know everything is good to go. And please don't use old parts like Sparkplugs, C&R, Wires.
Unless they are virtually new. Eliminate any possible issues before you even make the first attempt at starting it up and taking it for a ride. I also run some non detergent
race oil for the first 2 oil changes, ussually at 500 & 1000 Miles. ANd if you want to
run it at a Higher RPM to test the cooling system and such run it down the interstate for 10 miles or so in 3rd or 4th gear depending what gears you have in it. I like to run mine around 3500-4000rpm with a few slow downs to 2nd and punching it until I am
near the posted limit.
__________________
They say the good die young,
I plan on living forever!!
Mike90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2012, 05:50 PM   #19
Registered Member
Regular
 
Jar72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Albany
Region: Georgia
Posts: 127
I.agree with mike stay away from.oils with detergent aka rotella t. It's great for older engines not new ones.
__________________
JMF
Jar72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2012, 07:29 PM   #20
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jar72 View Post
I.agree with mike stay away from.oils with detergent aka rotella t. It's great for older engines not new ones.
You will have a very hard time finding any motor oil that does not contain detergents these days.


I have an air compressor that specifies non-detergent oil and I bought the last few quarts I could find years ago and I haven't ran across anymore yet to date.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2012, 12:33 AM   #21
Registered Member
Regular
 
Jar72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Albany
Region: Georgia
Posts: 127
Try a farm equiment or surplus store that's where we get it. But you have to be specific
__________________
JMF
Jar72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2012, 11:44 AM   #22
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jar72 View Post
Try a farm equiment or surplus store that's where we get it. But you have to be specific
A farm equipment place and an old service station supplied me with a grand total of 3 quarts of non-detergent oil, then there was no more to be had. They both told me that the replacement oils they could get were all detergent based.
However I did find a suitable replacement that would work at Schaefer Oil in their industrial oils, but I wouldn't use it in an engine.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2012, 03:50 PM   #23
Registered Member
Regular
 
Jar72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Albany
Region: Georgia
Posts: 127
Wow lol. How things have changed. It has been a few years since I tried to purchase it. Haven't tried here in az. Back home in Illinois it was Allways on the shelf.
__________________
JMF
Jar72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2012, 08:16 PM   #24
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jar72 View Post
Wow lol. How things have changed. It has been a few years since I tried to purchase it. Haven't tried here in az. Back home in Illinois it was Allways on the shelf.
There are probably a few cases/quarts left in some of the older equipment places or service stations and for all I know they may be still making it somewhere out there. Just not here within a 50 mile radius.
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2012, 04:57 AM   #25
Registered Member
Regular
 
laroc88lxho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: California
Posts: 25
I finally got it back it runs great the cam sounds awesome now I gotta get the flywheel resurfaced
laroc88lxho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 02:21 AM   #26
Registered Member
Regular
 
laroc88lxho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: California
Posts: 25
All I have to do know is boil change an engine is properly broken in what type of oil do you recommend I think I'll perform fully synthetic will be suitable suggestions please







Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20121029_001708.png
Views:	93
Size:	424.2 KB
ID:	73918



Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20121029_001802.png
Views:	82
Size:	409.2 KB
ID:	73919



Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20121029_001843.png
Views:	88
Size:	573.7 KB
ID:	73920
laroc88lxho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 02:33 AM   #27
Road Trip!
Supporter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Region: Missouri
Posts: 8,779
Quote:
Originally Posted by laroc88lxho View Post
All I have to do know is boil change an engine is properly broken in what type of oil do you recommend I think I'll perform fully synthetic will be suitable suggestions please
That doesn't make much sense, what exactly are you trying to say?
Trojan Horse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 06:14 AM   #28
Registered Member
Regular
 
laroc88lxho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Region: California
Posts: 25
Im trying to ask what's the better oil to use at brakin point ? ...im now at 500 miles and its time i think? To change the oil and witch should I pic im in to royal purple idk help me
laroc88lxho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 07:20 AM   #29
Road Trip!
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Region: Illinois
Posts: 776
I use Mobil 1 synthetic but I think it's just personal choice mostly.
JayKranz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 07:49 AM   #30
Registered Member
Regular
 
wc3john's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Region: Texas
Posts: 692
Before I pulled the original 302, the original owner told me he used nothing but Mobil 1... I was a little skeptical until I pulled the heads off to inspect... Practically looked like a brand new motor with the exception of the carbon deposits. I was sold on Mobil 1 since then
__________________


I chug syrup for money...
wc3john is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 08:59 AM   #31
Registered Member
Regular
 
WhiteCobra94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Region: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,435
Quote:
Originally Posted by laroc88lxho
Im trying to ask what's the better oil to use at brakin point ? ...im now at 500 miles and its time i think? To change the oil and witch should I pic im in to royal purple idk help me
Pensoil 10w-30 is what I use
WhiteCobra94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 1979-1995 Mustang GT

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


» Like Us On Facebook



01:37 PM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.