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Old 10-30-2012, 02:42 PM   #1
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looking to change heads & cam.

I want to swap the heads on my fox body. Its a 5.0 w/ mass air conversion,ported heads, headers, racing hpipe flowmaster 40s dumped. Previous owner says it has a small performance cam but I dont hear a lope like I usually hear on cammed mustangs.....well maybe a tiny bit but i say thats just the dumped exhaust so what I want to do is a head swap and install a better cam ill do the intake later. What are my options for the heads? Ive heard about a gt40 head swap but im not sure about it. I want some heads that require less adaptation of other parts like headers and that will fit under my upper intake manifold plug and play basicly. But then I start to hear about lifters and roller rockers and I get confused. Are they required when I change to aftermarket heads? Last thing is the cam. Im looking for a decent cam with some powah! The lope wont hurt. So if any one point me to some heads and cam itll be much apreciated.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:57 PM   #2
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As long as you get the 3 bar gt40 heads, they are plug and play... The 4 bar gt40p heads require at minimum new headers unless you don't mind a super right fit around your spark plugs.

Any alphabet cam is a decent cam over stock but the stock cam isn't too bad either. The main problem being the heads and intake. But a good lope sounding cam without having to mess with the short block or the springs for that matter would be an e303.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:59 PM   #3
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Save up some money and get the Trick Flow HCI or Top End Kit.You will then have components that are designed to work together and they will produce around 350 HP when installed on a stock 5.0 HO engine. Trying to piece together parts just never works as well as using what the manufacturers have designed to work together.
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:36 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse
Save up some money and get the Trick Flow HCI or Top End Kit.You will then have components that are designed to work together and they will produce around 350 HP when installed on a stock 5.0 HO engine. Trying to piece together parts just never works as well as using what the manufacturers have designed to work together.
piecing parts together is more fun though.
yeah if you can swimg it the tfs topend kit is the way to go!
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:13 PM   #5
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piecing parts together is more fun though.
yeah if you can swing it the tfs top end kit is the way to go!
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:32 PM   #6
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The trick flow track heat or twisted wedge top end kits are awesome. So is the edelbrock victor jr top end setup. Run one of those and you'll definitely have all the power you need
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:09 PM   #7
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The trick flow track heat or twisted wedge top end kits are awesome. So is the edelbrock victor jr top end setup. Run one of those and you'll definitely have all the power you need
Note that the Victor top end set ups will require a more fully built high rpm, bigger cubic inch or boosted engine to use the full air flow capabilities of the parts. On a stock 5.0 bottom end they wouldn't be very beneficial. You'd be left with an engine that has virtually no bottom end and only ran well in the upper RPM ranges.


The Performer and Performer RPM packages would be better suited to a stock bottom end engine.
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:35 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Note that the Victor top end set ups will require a more fully built high rpm, bigger cubic inch or boosted engine to use the full air flow capabilities of the parts. On a stock 5.0 bottom end they wouldn't be very beneficial. You'd be left with an engine that has virtually no bottom end and only ran well in the upper RPM ranges.

The Performer and Performer RPM packages would be better suited to a stock bottom end engine.
+1 on the eddy performers. Along with a tfs 1 cam and cobra intake makes pretty dang good power! I like mine!
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse
Save up some money and get the Trick Flow HCI or Top End Kit.You will then have components that are designed to work together and they will produce around 350 HP when installed on a stock 5.0 HO engine. Trying to piece together parts just never works as well as using what the manufacturers have designed to work together.
I recently encountered a problem, seems that when I hit the gas when driving and accelerate to high rpms I smell a gas like odor or a fume or just some thing not clean. I want to know if its cuz im running too rich or something. Before I get these heads and other stuff I want to get this problem sorted out. I hope its an easy fix because im saving up for the h/c/I
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:25 PM   #10
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Check fuel pressure bro. Same thing with me with a stock regulator. Fuel pressure at 40 while vaccum on. Just a thought....
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:31 PM   #11
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I recently encountered a problem, seems that when I hit the gas when driving and accelerate to high rpms I smell a gas like odor or a fume or just some thing not clean. I want to know if its cuz im running too rich or something. Before I get these heads and other stuff I want to get this problem sorted out. I hope its an easy fix because im saving up for the h/c/I
How old are your O2 sensors?
Still have the cats on?
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:34 PM   #12
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How old are your O2 sensors?
Still have the cats on?
I was sayin that's why mine was runnin rich TH. it was at 40 with vac on
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:59 PM   #13
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I was sayin that's why mine was runnin rich TH. it was at 40 with vac on
Sorry, I took that part of the post out to check some specifications.
Seems that my Chiltons manual calls for 35-45 psi fuel pressure in the tune up specs, so the 40 psi is in the range specified.

I have always set my pressure with an adjustable regulator as described below, but I've never paid much attention to what it is after the vacuum hose is reconnected other than it was in the 30 psi range. I'll have to check that sometime and just see what it does for sure.

Fuel pressure setting at idle, vacuum hose removed (off) and plugged, set to 38-40 psi, then reconnect vacuum hose.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:04 PM   #14
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10-4 buddy. Just goin from what I've been told. I would be interested in seeing what you come up with!
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:23 PM   #15
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10-4 buddy. Just goin from what I've been told. I would be interested in seeing what you come up with!
Generally I take what I read online with a grain of salt unless it is imparted by a well known builder/tuner/magazine. It is better to take what you can learn online, add your own experience/knowledge to that and tune your car however it works best for you and your particular combination as no two engines/cars will ever respond identically.


By the Chiltons book I have, your psi at 40 is within specs, BUT it sounds high to me and in comparison to how I set my fuel pressure. However like I said above, that may not be the same with your engine and combo. If you ever get an adjustable regulator I would be interested in seeing some actual pressure readings AFTER you set it to 38-40 with the vacuum line off and then replaced the vacuum line.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:48 PM   #16
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My five.oh ain't a daily, so I just might be the guinea pig...
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:13 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

How old are your O2 sensors?
Still have the cats on?
Im not sure how old are the o2 sensors or if the previous owner changed them at all. My exhaust system consists of headers, performance hpipe, and flowmaster 40s then dumped. About an hour ago I went for a spin and went w.o.t. to check if the smell would come back and it did.

---------- Post added at 01:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:11 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

Sorry, I took that part of the post out to check some specifications.
Seems that my Chiltons manual calls for 35-45 psi fuel pressure in the tune up specs, so the 40 psi is in the range specified.

I have always set my pressure with an adjustable regulator as described below, but I've never paid much attention to what it is after the vacuum hose is reconnected other than it was in the 30 psi range. I'll have to check that sometime and just see what it does for sure.

Fuel pressure setting at idle, vacuum hose removed (off) and plugged, set to 38-40 psi, then reconnect vacuum hose.
What fuel pressure should I be at? Im gonna take it to the shop tomorrow and see where im at and will let u guys know then work from there.
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:34 AM   #18
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Im not sure how old are the o2 sensors or if the previous owner changed them at all. My exhaust system consists of headers, performance hpipe, and flowmaster 40s then dumped. About an hour ago I went for a spin and went w.o.t. to check if the smell would come back and it did.

---------- Post added at 01:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:11 AM ----------

What fuel pressure should I be at? Im gonna take it to the shop tomorrow and see where im at and will let u guys know then work from there.
If your pipes are dumped, then a lot of times you will get that smell.
There is no cure for it other than running the pipes out the back. It will be stronger if your car is running rich or not firing properly.


All I can tell you is that I set my pressure as described in previous posts and the Chiltons manual lists the pressures given there too.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:17 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Trojan Horse

If your pipes are dumped, then a lot of times you will get that smell.
There is no cure for it other than running the pipes out the back. It will be stronger if your car is running rich or not firing properly.

All I can tell you is that I set my pressure as described in previous posts and the Chiltons manual lists the pressures given there too.
Wasnt able to go check the pressure today but tomorrow I will.I just had a thought, could the smell be from not having a smog pump bacause I dont have one installed. Came without one and has a shorter belt.
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