1990 mustang 5.0 mods? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 12-21-2011, 12:00 PM   #1
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1990 mustang 5.0 mods?

i have a bone stock 5.0 im redoing the whole motor in highproformence..here are the mods im putting on tellme if there good...longtube hooker headers 80mm tb edlebrock rpm proformer ll upper and lower, lunati cam 645 lift @ 300 310 dur hyd lifters and rockers valves forged pistons aftermarket crank bbk cold air intake underdriven pulleys double timing chain im going to port and polish the heads and intake.
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:24 PM   #2
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1990 mustang 5.0 mods?

all are great you will make around 390 to 410 hp but i would go with a 70 to 75 mm tb it will help your low end for street use and 36 lbs fuel injectors so you don't starve the engine of fuel at higher RPM's with the long tube headers for mufflers flow masters supper 40's and a h pipe not a x pipe the h pipe will keep it sounding like a American muscle car the x pipe it will sound like a BMW or Mercedes ever thing a mustang isn't
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Old 12-21-2011, 01:22 PM   #3
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1990 mustang 5.0 mods?

Unless you are going to shim the plunger travel inside the lifters so that it's less than .020, that camshaft will NEVER run in the higher RPM range where it has the size behind it which makes it WANT to run there. It's also going to be a PIG with a wide 112-114 Lobe Separation Angle in a Naturally Aspirated engine without a TON of compression. Otherwise, it needs to be on a 106-108 Lobe Separation Angle, in that scenario.

302's don't accelerate with big cams on wide lobe separation angles without a TON of compression. They like wide lobe separation angles for stock cams and 108's for stage one to stage two sized hydraulic rollers. Engines with good rod to stroke ratios are very sensitive to cams and induction changes. A little goes a long way. The rod ratio also gives them a wide/flat power curve and thus the wide LSA will simply iron flat and already flat curve, kill all the cylinder pressure and turn it into a lazy pig begging for artificial cylinder... Static Compression. Howeverer, if you make the cylinder head work by using the right cam, you will put more air in the cylinder because you will pick up the air velocity in the intake port, among other things. This picks up cylinder pressure dynamically, as it simply puts more charge into the cylinder for which to compress.

You better put some 3/8 push rods in there if you want any chances of any sort of valve train stability with this combination, once you work your lifters over. And then, it still won't RPM anywhere near where that big of a cam would want to take it unless you install some serious valve springs and a short runner intake such as a Victor Jr.

Long runner intake manifolds will not support high rpm horsepower and demands of huge seat to seat timing camshafts. Furthermore, neither will your worked over stock cylinder heads. At least they won't like that amount of lift, as they are way past the point of peak flow in terms of valve lift.

That Camshaft is also WAY out of the league of a long runner intake manifold such as yours. In all honesty, that camshaft is completely mis-matched "all around" for the rest of your parts choices. It's not going to want header primary tube lengths much longer than about 36 inches.

Pistons need to be about .010 out of the hole at TDC for best flame travel and least spark advance requirements which will gain torque across the board and really cut BSFC numbers.

Save your money on the under drive pulley's.

I make the camshafts for the fastest N/A 302's in the world. I've got stuff that will MURDER that camshaft from bottom to top and everywhere in between. The Lunati stuff is about as close to ZERO quality control (from a consistency point) as you can get. Don't believe me? Buy 3 of the exact same cam, put each one in your engine, and check each one with a dial indicator and a degree wheel. They are ALL over the place. And the Comp cams stuff will beat the valve train and the lifters apart, and the valve train will make alot of noise with them.

Email: camshaftshaun@gmail.com
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