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Old 02-09-2013, 03:23 PM   #1
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Help

It's an old problem but 1st time bringing it up
My car has hard time starting after I drive it
I come home for work go put gas then it doesn't start for at least an hour or until it cools down
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Old 02-09-2013, 05:04 PM   #2
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Does it seem to run worse after you drive it for awhile? I had a similar issue with an old ranger. The TFI module on the distributor can get hot and cause loss of spark, which will prevent it from starting. It could also be running really rich and is flooding the cylinders. Check the spark plugs and see if they are wet with fuel.
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Old 02-09-2013, 05:25 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by keaton5.0 View Post
Does it seem to run worse after you drive it for awhile? I had a similar issue with an old ranger. The TFI module on the distributor can get hot and cause loss of spark, which will prevent it from starting. It could also be running really rich and is flooding the cylinders. Check the spark plugs and see if they are wet with fuel.
One time u was idling at a drive thru for a good 30 min I was driving for about 45-1hr n the car wanted to die if I wouldn't have gave it some gas
I bought a new TFI ill change it 2morrow let see what happens
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Old 02-09-2013, 05:47 PM   #4
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If that doesn't
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Old 02-09-2013, 05:57 PM   #5
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Sorry, I'm still learning; as i was saying, if that doesn't fix it, try removing the idle bypass valve and cleaning it with a good spray cleaner. Also do the same with the mass airflow sensor.
This has always worked for most idle problems fast or slow erratic or hardstart
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:00 PM   #6
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Sorry, I'm still learning; as i was saying, if that doesn't fix it, try removing the idle bypass valve and cleaning it with a good spray cleaner. Also do the same with the mass airflow sensor.
This has always worked for most idle problems fast or slow erratic or hardstart
I just cleaned the maf
Where is the idle bypass valve.?
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:14 PM   #7
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It bolts to the side of the throtttle body, be careful with the gasket it can be dilicate.

---------- Post added at 06:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:09 PM ----------

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I just cleaned the maf
Where is the idle bypass valve.?
Its on the side of the throttlebody opposite of the throttle position sensor, two bolts, easy
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:16 PM   #8
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It bolts to the side of the throtttle body, be careful with the gasket it can be dilicate.

---------- Post added at 06:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:09 PM ----------



Its on the side of the throttlebody opposite of the throttle position sensor, two bolts, easy
Is it the IAC if so I jus bought a new one
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:34 PM   #9
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just fyi most parts that could be suspect are testable. i wouldnt just keep buying parts everytime someone suggests something. to me it sounds ignition related though.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:15 PM   #10
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just fyi most parts that could be suspect are testable. i wouldnt just keep buying parts everytime someone suggests something. to me it sounds ignition related though.
Can it be the coil.?
The only thing I've bought is the IAC cause I broke the one I cleaned by tightening it to much n I jus cleaned the maf
I both the Tfi cause it was cheap
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:09 AM   #11
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Can it be the coil.?
The only thing I've bought is the IAC cause I broke the one I cleaned by tightening it to much n I jus cleaned the maf
I both the Tfi cause it was cheap
Yes it could be the coil. If it is old its ok to replace that anyways also. There maybe a test for it in the sticky section. You can pick up an msd for around 30$ at most local auto parts stores.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:47 PM   #12
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Yes it could be the coil. If it is old its ok to replace that anyways also. There maybe a test for it in the sticky section. You can pick up an msd for around 30$ at most local auto parts stores.
So I changed my coil today to a 8227 msd i bought off my friends cousin according to him it was new but it had a rough idle and i felt like it lost some power
So I went to buy a stock one from autozone
It feels better at idle but I still noticed a little power loss
My dad and brother also switched the TFI while I was at work could they have possibly moved the timing when they put everything back together.?

Here's the old one I took off first
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:58 PM   #13
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Im suprised that coil worked at all lol. If they had to move the distributor at all while changing the tfi they could have easily messed the timing up.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:12 PM   #14
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Im suprised that coil worked at all lol. If they had to move the distributor at all while changing the tfi they could have easily messed the timing up.
The inside of the spark plug cable has corrosion as well should I clean it or replace it..
My cables are 8mm blue accel cAn the msd coil be to powerful for them.?
I'm going to have my time adjusted
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:25 PM   #15
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The inside of the spark plug cable has corrosion as well should I clean it or replace it..
My cables are 8mm blue accel cAn the msd coil be to powerful for them.?
I'm going to have my time adjusted
I would replace the wires too. It sounds like they have been on there for awhile.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:27 PM   #16
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I would replace the wires too. It sounds like they have been on there for awhile.
It's only the wire that was connected to the coil
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:34 PM   #17
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Im not sure if you can buy just a single wire but i might be wrong. Personally the first thing i do to a recently purchased vehicle is a tune up, new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Unless i know for a fact they are fairly new.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:22 PM   #18
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So I changed the TFI and the car still doesn't want to start after I drove it to Home Depot from work
Also has a 3G alternator
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:52 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by keaton5.0 View Post
Does it seem to run worse after you drive it for awhile? I had a similar issue with an old ranger. The TFI module on the distributor can get hot and cause loss of spark, which will prevent it from starting. It could also be running really rich and is flooding the cylinders. Check the spark plugs and see if they are wet with fuel.
It's like if the batteries dead but when they push start me it turns on
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:55 PM   #20
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Bump
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:18 PM   #21
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We more symptoms. What's it doing? Cranking? Firing? Tell us everything you can and we will.do our best to help ya.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:25 PM   #22
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We more symptoms. What's it doing? Cranking? Firing? Tell us everything you can and we will.do our best to help ya.
So I drove to Home Depot from my job 20-30 min. When I went to start my car it didn't want to turn on
I turned they key and nothing it seemed like if the battery was dead so some guy help me push start it and it started right up
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:36 PM   #23
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Do your lights come on? Does it make any noises at all when you try and start it?
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:58 PM   #24
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Do your lights come on? Does it make any noises at all when you try and start it?
Everything comes on like normal
When I turn the key it doesn't do nothing
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:22 AM   #25
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Try jumping the silinoid. If it starts then you prolly need to change that.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:20 AM   #26
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Try jumping the silinoid. If it starts then you prolly need to change that.
I'm a newbie at this
How do I do that.?
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:02 AM   #27
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We more symptoms. What's it doing? Cranking? Firing? Tell us everything you can and we will.do our best to help ya.
1st try it cranks but doesn't turn on
2nd try cranks a little less then seems like the battery is dead
3rd try no crank jus seems like the battery is dead
Next morning car turns on
Has new TFI and 3G alt
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:29 AM   #28
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1st try it cranks but doesn't turn on
2nd try cranks a little less then seems like the battery is dead
3rd try no crank jus seems like the battery is dead
Next morning car turns on
Has new TFI and 3G alt
Sounds like you are having issues charging issues. If you put a volt meter on your battery with it running you should have around 14.5 volts. Then you should have around 12.5 with it off.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:37 AM   #29
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When you did the 3g upgrade, what gauge wire did you run from the charging tab on the alternator to the positive battery post? Also make sure all the terminals are clean and tight. Like dreamstang said check your voltages. If they are a little low id have the battery and alternator tested. Most auto parts stores can test them for free.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:02 PM   #30
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When you did the 3g upgrade, what gauge wire did you run from the charging tab on the alternator to the positive battery post? Also make sure all the terminals are clean and tight. Like dreamstang said check your voltages. If they are a little low id have the battery and alternator tested. Most auto parts stores can test them for free.
I used 4 gauge wire
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:03 PM   #31
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Sounds like you are having issues charging issues. If you put a volt meter on your battery with it running you should have around 14.5 volts. Then you should have around 12.5 with it off.
Ill check during lunch break
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:44 PM   #32
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Hmmm It sounds like some conductor is overheating, possibly.
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:15 PM   #33
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Sounds like you are having issues charging issues. If you put a volt meter on your battery with it running you should have around 14.5 volts. Then you should have around 12.5 with it off.
Here's the voltage off and on
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:17 PM   #34
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Hmmm It sounds like some conductor is overheating, possibly.
Where r the conductors.?
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:36 PM   #35
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I posted some pics on the voltage off the battery with the car off and on
They seem normal
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