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Old 02-17-2013, 07:23 PM   #1
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Clutch

Hey guys so I am currently on a trip into Chicago, well my clutch decided, 'screw it im braking too' so now my clutch only engages at the very bottom of the pedal throw and something (throwout bearing?) grinds/whines terribly if the clutch is depressed, I just got laid off and money is very tight. What do I need to replace, should I resurface or replace the flywheel?
Who loves their clutch? who hates theres? Thanks guys!
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:44 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Billymich View Post
Hey guys so I am currently on a trip into Chicago, well my clutch decided, 'screw it im braking too' so now my clutch only engages at the very bottom of the pedal throw and something (throwout bearing?) grinds/whines terribly if the clutch is depressed, I just got laid off and money is very tight. What do I need to replace, should I resurface or replace the flywheel?
Who loves their clutch? who hates theres? Thanks guys!
Just my 2cents. I would just resurface flywheel since you're on a budget. Wouldn't be losing anything at all I don't think.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:14 PM   #3
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If it was an instant fail check the cable and fork to make sure they didn't fail
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:31 PM   #4
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If it was an instant fail check the cable and fork to make sure they didn't fail
It was acting 'funny' all day then I went to drive like 2 miles home and like 5 blocks from my house it went straight to, only engaging at the very bottom and that terrible noise, how do I check my cable which probably needs to be replaced how do I check my clutch fork?
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:13 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Billymich

It was acting 'funny' all day then I went to drive like 2 miles home and like 5 blocks from my house it went straight to, only engaging at the very bottom and that terrible noise, how do I check my cable which probably needs to be replaced how do I check my clutch fork?
Just inspection. You can unhook the cable from the fork and see if its broke. The pull the little cover off and see if you can look inside for shattered clutch material. If the fork is broke/bent it should be pretty easily noticeable.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:29 PM   #6
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if its on the stock quadrant (that keeps slack set correctly in cable) it may be busted or unadjusted. You should feel it grabbing WAY before its nearly on the floor.

You can push in the clutch with one hand (left) and feel above the gas petal with the other, see the half moon shaped quadrant, it has a little gear on the back of it, you will need to hold the big part (the quadrant itself) and ease the clutch out, the tension of you holding it against the motion in how it rotates as the clutch petal comes up will cause the slack to be taken up and a noticeable "click" will be heard.

You can do it a few times (2-4) and feel the petal with your foot, should feel like it grabs higher up.

You want about .5 inches at least of pushing in the clutch before the clutch slips (hold gas steady driving at like 45mph or so and ease in the clutch and when the rpms climb its slipping)

If you pull up on the clutch petal from the bottom or shift hard it may unadjust. If its worn out and wont adjust or stay adjusted a firewall adjuster/quadrant can be used to fix it.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:45 PM   #7
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if its on the stock quadrant (that keeps slack set correctly in cable) it may be busted or unadjusted. You should feel it grabbing WAY before its nearly on the floor.

You can push in the clutch with one hand (left) and feel above the gas petal with the other, see the half moon shaped quadrant, it has a little gear on the back of it, you will need to hold the big part (the quadrant itself) and ease the clutch out, the tension of you holding it against the motion in how it rotates as the clutch petal comes up will cause the slack to be taken up and a noticeable "click" will be heard.

You can do it a few times (2-4) and feel the petal with your foot, should feel like it grabs higher up.

You want about .5 inches at least of pushing in the clutch before the clutch slips (hold gas steady driving at like 45mph or so and ease in the clutch and when the rpms climb its slipping)

If you pull up on the clutch petal from the bottom or shift hard it may unadjust. If its worn out and wont adjust or stay adjusted a firewall adjuster/quadrant can be used to fix it.
Well hot damn. I had been told pulling up on he clutch ADJUSTED it so I've been doing it while driving as a habit now, ill just pull up with my foot occasionally lol. I started about a week ago so.... Ill go try that now!

Well, I adjusted it with the quadrant, 2-3 Clicks. Fired her up and it started whining/screeching instantly... When the clutch is depressed (which still happens at the bottom of the pedal throw) the screechinng starts until I let off and the engine speed drops 150-300 rpm until I let off this is while idling. I feel like Im getting close to the problem here. Thanks fellas
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:29 PM   #8
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the lifting of the clutch petal is "supposed to" adjust it, but usually it does not. I have to take up some extra slack mine with the method above. I also went through 4 throwout bearings in my previous mustang, taking up the slack a bit kept the final one from squeeling.

When I picked up my 03 the petal had to be pushed down to the floor to shift, after taking up the slack like above its much smoother to shift, but the hard shifts unadjust it.... not a big deal.

I wish someone made some sort of item that once adjusted would lock it in so it would stay.

The issue with aftermarket quadrants is that there is no spring to keep tension on the cable so the petal flops around unless all the slack is pulled out of it and then you end up with a HIGH petal. Maximum Motorsports makes a petal height adjustment kit that basically lowers the bump stop so you can pull the slack out of the petal and keep it lower in travel.

So far the OEM with the adjustment above works for me, mine is firm at the top no flop
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:32 PM   #9
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the lifting of the clutch petal is "supposed to" adjust it, but usually it does not. I have to take up some extra slack mine with the method above. I also went through 4 throwout bearings in my previous mustang, taking up the slack a bit kept the final one from squeeling.

When I picked up my 03 the petal had to be pushed down to the floor to shift, after taking up the slack like above its much smoother to shift, but the hard shifts unadjust it.... not a big deal.
Is there anywhere that I can get a full write up on replacement for throw out bearing, pilot bearing, clutch, flywheel and anything else you guys recommend doing now?
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:39 PM   #10
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ive been down that road.... thankfully it was under warranty at Ford.

If it squeels/ticks and goes away pushing the petal in then its probably the throwout, but as you said... when going through all the hassle replace it ALL as it cheaper than just trying one part of it.

pilot bearing (stay OEM ford)
throwout bearing (FORD only get the HD version dont get another brand)
new/resurface flywheel
good clutch/pressure plate (OEM is fine if you are near stock power levels no need for a stiff one if you dont need it)
pivot ball stut looks good and clutch fork is good else replace (cheap parts)
Input shaft play with in spec else shim

Thats about all I know, with a T-5 you can remove it (4 bolts) from the bell housing though and slide it out then do the rest lol, can do it on your own but ive never put a clutch in so cant tell you any trips/tricks etc. Should be plenty of how-tos out there.

may wish to look at rear main seal while down there
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:51 PM   #11
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may wish to look at rear main seal while down there
Thanks for all the help, Ill let you guys know what I find. My rear main is leaking, but a friend said that involved dropping the oil pan, is that not the case? I just changed my oil after a seafoam (leaking worse than ever now >_< )
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