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Old 05-05-2013, 02:30 AM   #1
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what would you do with $1000

if you had a foxbody.. and had 1000 dollars to spend on the motor, what would u buy?
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:42 AM   #2
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:55 AM   #3
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depends on whats already done to the motor?
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:56 AM   #4
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TFS heads. Or a set of bigs and littles.
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:01 AM   #5
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depends on whats already done to the motor?
Yup need mod list
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:27 AM   #6
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Depends on what has been done already and what my goal is. If I'm after a clean restored ride the it mostly goes into interior. If I'm looking to have a weekend cruiser/drag strip car, then it's all going to engine mods and maybe some wheels if I can squeak it out.
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:35 AM   #7
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Depends on what has been done already and what my goal is. If I'm after a clean restored ride the it mostly goes into interior. If I'm looking to have a weekend cruiser/drag strip car, then it's all going to engine mods and maybe some wheels if I can squeak it out.
engine is bone stock with msd ignition, pullys, cold air intake, and full exhaust.. rear end is posi with 373 gears, along with short shifter and a heavy duty clutch. i posted this to get an idea of where to start with my motor, I've got 1g to spend and wanna get the best bang for my buck

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depends on whats already done to the motor?
pullys, cold air intake, msd ignition, full exhaust, posi rear end with 373, short shifter and heavy duty clutch.. I have a grand to spend and would like to have some ideas on what other people would spend it on.

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Yup need mod list
there's a list of mods now.
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:35 AM   #8
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Nice, since you have the supporting mods, I would look into a cam and top end (heads and intake).
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:40 AM   #9
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Nice, since you have the supporting mods, I would look into a cam and top end (heads and intake).
I was thinking gt40 upper and lower, e303, 70mm tb, w/ cobra gt40 heads.. might be around 1000 exactly.. would there be anything I should get to support these mods? I'm planning on going bigger on the fuel injectors also so the maf will be changed too.. would a newer clutch be necessary? how about aluminum driveshaft and torque box reinforcements because I don't think I'll be making enough hp to worry about that stuff but then again this is my first build so i could be wrong
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Old 05-05-2013, 12:18 PM   #10
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The heads and intake sound good. If your clutch is fairly new it will be ok for now, but I would look into an upgrade. 24lb injectors with matching MAF, and aluminum drive shaft are good to. Sub frame connectors would be my choice for stiffening.
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Old 05-05-2013, 12:56 PM   #11
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I would say ask this guy for how much he wants for his stuff then lol

5.0 parts for sale/trade.
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:28 PM   #12
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Cams
Cam dont need two like your 4.6
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:17 PM   #13
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Cam dont need two like your 4.6
And no, no cam, not on stock heads. The E7s work best with the stock cam and an aftermarket cam will either lose you power or just move the power band without picking up anything.

$1k isn't going to get you a HCI or anything really crazy. Maybe look into some suspension mods to help put power to the ground or update the inerior/exterior if it needs it. If you are dead set on the motor, go pull a set of GT40s and GT40 intake out of an Explorer at a JY, clean them up, new springs/seals/retainers/locks/valve job and have the explorer ported. Also do a DIY grind down of the EGR bumps in the exhaust ports of the heads. Its as simple as taking the right bit and just making them flush, anyone can do it. Throw them in with the stock cam and you won't need a tune and you'll pick up a good 40-50whp.

I know I suggest the GT40 stuff alot, it really IS the best bang for the buck power mod on a 302 motor. Then later on a simple S trim supercharger can make enough power combined with the GT40s to grenade the stock block if you aren't careful and the GT40s give you great off idle/out of boost power and stock driveability with the stock cam.
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:23 PM   #14
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And no, no cam, not on stock heads. The E7s work best with the stock cam and an aftermarket cam will either lose you power or just move the power band without picking up anything.

$1k isn't going to get you a HCI or anything really crazy. Maybe look into some suspension mods to help put power to the ground or update the inerior/exterior if it needs it. If you are dead set on the motor, go pull a set of GT40s and GT40 intake out of an Explorer at a JY, clean them up, new springs/seals/retainers/locks/valve job and have the explorer ported. Also do a DIY grind down of the EGR bumps in the exhaust ports of the heads. Its as simple as taking the right bit and just making them flush, anyone can do it. Throw them in with the stock cam and you won't need a tune and you'll pick up a good 40-50whp.

I know I suggest the GT40 stuff alot, it really IS the best bang for the buck power mod on a 302 motor. Then later on a simple S trim supercharger can make enough power combined with the GT40s to grenade the stock block if you aren't careful and the GT40s give you great off idle/out of boost power and stock driveability with the stock cam.
I was thinking gt40 upper and lower w/ 70mm tb and gt40 heads with the e303 cam, then more down the line I'll do subframe connectors, alum driveshaft, upper and lower torque reinforcements, 24lb injectors with the right maf..

---------- Post added at 05:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:22 PM ----------

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The heads and intake sound good. If your clutch is fairly new it will be ok for now, but I would look into an upgrade. 24lb injectors with matching MAF, and aluminum drive shaft are good to. Sub frame connectors would be my choice for stiffening.
what does it mean when some intakes say they have no egr, which one do I get for my car?
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:17 PM   #15
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Go with the external EGR, that's what you currently have.

And do some research on the explorer motors.... Only for one or two years the my came with the gt40 heads, the later years were gt40p's. both are great heads especially for the money, but gt40p's may take an extra bit if work due to different spark plug angles. You can tell them apart by looking on the side of the casting.... Gt40s have 3 bars gt40p's have 4. There's a good video on YouTube that shows you how to identify them.
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:19 PM   #16
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Cams really are a nice upgrade, but you need to tune them.
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:24 PM   #17
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Wtf is with ppl saying "cams" on a 5.0? There is 1 cam, and an E cam is a TERRIBLE cam to put in these days not to mention you should do a tune when you put an aftermarket cam in. You don't HAVE to but it'll run much better if you do. With the stock cam and the GT40s you don't have to do a $600 tune not to mention you won't have the idle or driveabilty issues of some cams. The stock cam has this bad rap for some reason... it is actually a VERY good cam, if you want a little extra lift/duration slap a set of 1.7 rockers in there and call it a day.

If you are dead set on getting a $100 OTS cam do yourself a favor and at LEAST get a TFS1 or Steeda 19 or something. The letter cams are well over 20 years old at this point and especially the E cam has driveability issues with the 110 LSA.
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:58 PM   #18
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Wtf is with ppl saying "cams" on a 5.0? There is 1 cam, and an E cam is a TERRIBLE cam to put in these days not to mention you should do a tune when you put an aftermarket cam in. You don't HAVE to but it'll run much better if you do. With the stock cam and the GT40s you don't have to do a $600 tune not to mention you won't have the idle or driveabilty issues of some cams. The stock cam has this bad rap for some reason... it is actually a VERY good cam, if you want a little extra lift/duration slap a set of 1.7 rockers in there and call it a day.

If you are dead set on getting a $100 OTS cam do yourself a favor and at LEAST get a TFS1 or Steeda 19 or something. The letter cams are well over 20 years old at this point and especially the E cam has driveability issues with the 110 LSA.
+1 1.7 rockers will give you roughly .473 lift. Explorer heads and intake, 1.7 rollers FTW!!!
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:33 PM   #19
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Go with the external EGR, that's what you currently have.

And do some research on the explorer motors.... Only for one or two years the my came with the gt40 heads, the later years were gt40p's. both are great heads especially for the money, but gt40p's may take an extra bit if work due to different spark plug angles. You can tell them apart by looking on the side of the casting.... Gt40s have 3 bars gt40p's have 4. There's a good video on YouTube that shows you how to identify them.
the one I'm looking at says it has EGR and ACT sensors. is that what I need?

---------- Post added at 09:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:28 PM ----------

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Wtf is with ppl saying "cams" on a 5.0? There is 1 cam, and an E cam is a TERRIBLE cam to put in these days not to mention you should do a tune when you put an aftermarket cam in. You don't HAVE to but it'll run much better if you do. With the stock cam and the GT40s you don't have to do a $600 tune not to mention you won't have the idle or driveabilty issues of some cams. The stock cam has this bad rap for some reason... it is actually a VERY good cam, if you want a little extra lift/duration slap a set of 1.7 rockers in there and call it a day.

If you are dead set on getting a $100 OTS cam do yourself a favor and at LEAST get a TFS1 or Steeda 19 or something. The letter cams are well over 20 years old at this point and especially the E cam has driveability issues with the 110 LSA.
so would you install a cam or not? I really did want to buy the e303 cam, but if it will give me issues I minus well stay away from.
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:50 AM   #20
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You need the internal EGR. I've got the same one.... I'll try to take some pictures if you would like a reference. Then a throttle body and matching EGR spacer.

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Wtf is with ppl saying "cams" on a 5.0? There is 1 cam, and an E cam is a TERRIBLE cam to put in these days not to mention you should do a tune when you put an aftermarket cam in. You don't HAVE to but it'll run much better if you do. With the stock cam and the GT40s you don't have to do a $600 tune not to mention you won't have the idle or driveabilty issues of some cams. The stock cam has this bad rap for some reason... it is actually a VERY good cam, if you want a little extra lift/duration slap a set of 1.7 rockers in there and call it a day.

If you are dead set on getting a $100 OTS cam do yourself a favor and at LEAST get a TFS1 or Steeda 19 or something. The letter cams are well over 20 years old at this point and especially the E cam has driveability issues with the 110 LSA.
Guess they're used to the new lingo, I'd like to see someone purchase two and try to out them in!
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:11 PM   #21
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You need the internal EGR. I've got the same one.... I'll try to take some pictures if you would like a reference. Then a throttle body and matching EGR spacer.

---------- Post added at 05:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:48 AM ----------



Guess they're used to the new lingo, I'd like to see someone purchase two and try to out them in!
there was a guy on here saying I need an external.. lol I'm being thrown all over the place
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:48 PM   #22
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Wtf is with ppl saying "cams" on a 5.0? There is 1 cam, and an E cam is a TERRIBLE cam to put in these days not to mention you should do a tune when you put an aftermarket cam in. You don't HAVE to but it'll run much better if you do. With the stock cam and the GT40s you don't have to do a $600 tune not to mention you won't have the idle or driveabilty issues of some cams. The stock cam has this bad rap for some reason... it is actually a VERY good cam, if you want a little extra lift/duration slap a set of 1.7 rockers in there and call it a day.

If you are dead set on getting a $100 OTS cam do yourself a favor and at LEAST get a TFS1 or Steeda 19 or something. The letter cams are well over 20 years old at this point and especially the E cam has driveability issues with the 110 LSA.
I have no drivability issues with my E cam, and its the only one that's smog certified unlike the others you stated. There's a reason that they still make those grinds, because they work and work well. Almost every auto trans has drivability issues with any cam unless they have the appropriate stall.
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:50 PM   #23
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so would you install a cam or not? I really did want to buy the e303 cam, but if it will give me issues I minus well stay away from.
No more drivability problems than any other mild cam.
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:11 PM   #24
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Buy my girlfriend a really nice present of course. So for my birthday I'll get some nice parts for my mustang.
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:00 PM   #25
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Buy my girlfriend a really nice present of course. So for my birthday I'll get some nice parts for my mustang.
Jewelry will rake up that kind of price quick
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:13 PM   #26
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$1000 I'd wait and save a extra $400-$500 and get some heads!!
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:18 PM   #27
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$1000 I'd wait and save a extra $400-$500 and get some heads!!
+1000 drop them e7s for some edelbrocks, trick flows or afrs
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:30 PM   #28
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I have no drivability issues with my E cam, and its the only one that's smog certified unlike the others you stated. There's a reason that they still make those grinds, because they work and work well. Almost every auto trans has drivability issues with any cam unless they have the appropriate stall.
That's true, it also maters if its degreed and tuned properly as well, have had many friends with the b and e and no problems.

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there was a guy on here saying I need an external.. lol I'm being thrown all over the place
That was probably me earlier, I miss spoke... Or typed. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:57 PM   #29
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the one I'm looking at says it has EGR and ACT sensors. is that what I need?

---------- Post added at 09:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:28 PM ----------



so would you install a cam or not? I really did want to buy the e303 cam, but if it will give me issues I minus well stay away from.
I would go with the stock cam and 1.72 lifters and call it a day.

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I have no drivability issues with my E cam, and its the only one that's smog certified unlike the others you stated. There's a reason that they still make those grinds, because they work and work well. Almost every auto trans has drivability issues with any cam unless they have the appropriate stall.
Some do, some don't as far as driveability issues. I had a friend with a 94 Cobra (with an A9L even) and we could never get it to run right at lower RPMs no matter what. It idled ok, high end was good, like at 1800rpm in parking lots it would buck but it did sound pretty damn good rumbling along at idle.

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$1000 I'd wait and save a extra $400-$500 and get some heads!!
This is where I disagree and have personal experience to back up my opinion (which is just my opinion I know). With that $1k, he can get a set of good GT40s, get them gone through, grind down the EGR bumps, get the matching GT40 intake, have the intake ported, get a set of good used 1.72 rockers and all the gaskets and then do all the work himself to bolt it all on. That will pick him up a solid 40-60whp all together, give him great stock driveability and when he wants more power later all he needs to do is supercharge it. A S trimmed GT40 powered stock bottom end 5.0 will anally rape a HCI or even most 302 based strokers that cost $thousands more. No idea why more ppl just don't do the GT40 thing, bolt on a blower and go.
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:21 AM   #30
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I would go with the stock cam and 1.72 lifters and call it a day.

Some do, some don't as far as driveability issues. I had a friend with a 94 Cobra (with an A9L even) and we could never get it to run right at lower RPMs no matter what. It idled ok, high end was good, like at 1800rpm in parking lots it would buck but it did sound pretty damn good rumbling along at idle.

This is where I disagree and have personal experience to back up my opinion (which is just my opinion I know). With that $1k, he can get a set of good GT40s, get them gone through, grind down the EGR bumps, get the matching GT40 intake, have the intake ported, get a set of good used 1.72 rockers and all the gaskets and then do all the work himself to bolt it all on. That will pick him up a solid 40-60whp all together, give him great stock driveability and when he wants more power later all he needs to do is supercharge it. A S trimmed GT40 powered stock bottom end 5.0 will anally rape a HCI or even most 302 based strokers that cost $thousands more. No idea why more ppl just don't do the GT40 thing, bolt on a blower and go.
The gt40s work great with a blower but if you want more then them gt40 won't cut it for example take a 302 with gt40 head an a s trim an have him run a 302 with afr or trick flow heads an a s trim an then there's a big difference I do now gt40 heads work better then the e7s but there not the best for making some good HP numbers
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:15 AM   #31
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The gt40s work great with a blower but if you want more then them gt40 won't cut it for example take a 302 with gt40 head an a s trim an have him run a 302 with afr or trick flow heads an a s trim an then there's a big difference I do now gt40 heads work better then the e7s but there not the best for making some good HP numbers
Solid point. I just like the price! My gt40p's will get me by until I can afford the AFR's.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:57 AM   #32
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Well i guess ill be different i guess i have a different way of thinking i know you said you engine mods with your 1000 but my way of thinking is why put more power when your car can't handle it id say do suspension upgrades first torque box reinforcing surfaces new upper and lower control arms i say this because no matter what people say lets face it your in a mustang your gonna get on it every now and then and what's the point of doin mods to engine and making more power if a couple months later you got to bring car to junk yard because you wrecked it by ripping the cheese torque boxes out and twisted the body all up then having to spend even more money fixing everything or worst lose the whole car lets face it we all want more power but before adding more power IMO should always update suspension of car to handle the power you plan on having and not the power you plan on making next week but power you plan on making in five or more years so you don't have to do double the work and spend double themoney on same parts later on. Just my opinion

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I say all that to keep this in mind the fox body mustaang is the worlds most moded car so if you plan on owning it for a while your plans will change over time right now it maybe i want a little bit more power for a clean daily driver in 2 years the same car might be a full on tube chassis drag car so when looking at parts always look ahead at big picture another end result it will save time and money in the long run
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:58 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by captain78 View Post
Well i guess ill be different i guess i have a different way of thinking i know you said you engine mods with your 1000 but my way of thinking is why put more power when your car can't handle it id say do suspension upgrades first torque box reinforcing surfaces new upper and lower control arms i say this because no matter what people say lets face it your in a mustang your gonna get on it every now and then and what's the point of doin mods to engine and making more power if a couple months later you got to bring car to junk yard because you wrecked it by ripping the cheese torque boxes out and twisted the body all up then having to spend even more money fixing everything or worst lose the whole car lets face it we all want more power but before adding more power IMO should always update suspension of car to handle the power you plan on having and not the power you plan on making next week but power you plan on making in five or more years so you don't have to do double the work and spend double themoney on same parts later on. Just my opinion

---------- Post added at 07:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:54 AM ----------

I say all that to keep this in mind the fox body mustaang is the worlds most moded car so if you plan on owning it for a while your plans will change over time right now it maybe i want a little bit more power for a clean daily driver in 2 years the same car might be a full on tube chassis drag car so when looking at parts always look ahead at big picture another end result it will save time and money in the long run
That's a good point to! Especially of the drag strip is in the future!
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:12 AM   #34
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And just with the suspension mods i did to mine i ran a 14 flat at drag strip with absolutly no engine mods bone stock engine 14 flat with just upgraded suspension

---------- Post added at 08:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:09 AM ----------

And i kinda stress torque box reinforcing because i know several bone stock stangs that busted the rivets out of there torque boxes just from hard launching at red lights and stop signs
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:48 AM   #35
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Solid point. I just like the price! My gt40p's will get me by until I can afford the AFR's.


GT40s and a s trim will make enough power to blow up the block. If we are talking off boost power then maybe you might want some better heads but you don't need anymore than the GT40s to make 425-450whp with the blower. At that point you should be looking at a DART block or 351 based build anyway.
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