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Old 05-19-2013, 11:22 AM   #1
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distributor

Can anyone guide me to how to replace a distributor and wat to becarful on so i wont damage anything?
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:05 PM   #2
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Remove distributor cap. Bump motor until rotor is pointed at 12:00 ( this is for reference). Remove retaining bolt and retainer from bottom of Dist. Lift up on distributor. Notice how as you remove it, the rotor moves. This is normal. The oil pump rod should remain in the motor. Install new distributor in reverse order with rotor in same position when the old one come out. When you seat the Dist, the rotor should return to the 12:00 position.
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:48 PM   #3
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it sounds easy..but the problem is dat i cant find an L shape ranch to take off the bolt..is their another way to take dat bolt off
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:14 PM   #4
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it sounds easy..but the problem is dat i cant find an L shape ranch to take off the bolt..is their another way to take dat bolt off
Either a wobble extension or go to the auto parts store and buy a distributor wrench.
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:22 PM   #5
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i went and asked them nd they said they dont have it.
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:21 PM   #6
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Either a wobble extension or go to the auto parts store and buy a distributor wrench.
this is correct. Personally I use a 3/8" drive, a 3/8" extension at least 4" in length, a short 1/2" socket and a wobble. Wobble placed at socket end of course. Therefore if you have the 3/8" drive in your hand, first put the extension on, then the wobble and finally the socket. Go to town.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:54 AM   #7
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do i really have to take off the spark plug to tell its at tdc or could i just crank it till its at 0 degrees in the balencer
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:19 PM   #8
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do i really have to take off the spark plug to tell its at tdc or could i just crank it till its at 0 degrees in the balencer
You don't have to get the vehicle at TDC at all if you are only replacing the distributor.
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:23 PM   #9
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Either way, be prepared to reset timing with a timing light......
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:24 PM   #10
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Either way, be prepared to reset timing with a timing light......
Indeed.
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:29 PM   #11
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cuz all im going to do is replace the whole distributor and put the new one back in
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:35 PM   #12
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cuz all im going to do is replace the whole distributor and put the new one back in
Yup. Putting the distributor rotor at a pre-defined position enables you to put the new one in the same position. Choose the clock position of your desire. I use 12:00 or 'noon'. But it doesn't matter, as long as you put the new one where the old one was. Technically you could be off a gear or two however, it would now be required to time the ignition and depending which way you were off the TFI module may interfere with the water pump hoses. But the goal is to put the new one exactly where the old one was.
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:43 PM   #13
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oh kk i get u so like if its at 12:00 the old one the best to do is to put the new one the best as possable were the old one was at. all im scared is if the distriibutor is not the problem my car has cuz it.cranks but dosnt sart or it will start but wen i drive it shuts off out of no were wat is your opinion on dis
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:54 PM   #14
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oh kk i get u so like if its at 12:00 the old one the best to do is to put the new one the best as possable were the old one was at. all im scared is if the distriibutor is not the problem my car has cuz it.cranks but dosnt sart or it will start but wen i drive it shuts off out of no were wat is your opinion on dis
If possible, I'd first run the codes. I would check the air bypass control valve. you can remove it, clean the inside with brake parts cleaner. If that works, go ahead and buy a new one as the cleaning in most cases is a temporary fix. The valve looks like a film canister (cylindrical) in shape and is located on the side of the throttle body. Two screws (8mm I believe) and one two-wire connector.

---------- Post added at 12:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:50 PM ----------

Most common issue with the distributors (in my experience) is wobble in the dist shaft. You can grab the rotor and try moving it all about, like the hokey pokey. Left to right there will be a little movement and that's normal because the shaft is moving within the minimal space allowed on the camshaft. Movement side to side and that's a worn bearing. That kind of movement will cause detonation issues at high RPM but would not produce the symptoms referenced above.
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:07 PM   #15
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i have replaced the first thing u had said cuz it had issues to.so i replaced it wit a new one so i dont think is dat but ill take it off nd see if its dirty agien...ill check the rotor so if it moves side to side dat means the bearing is worn out
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:06 PM   #16
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Get any codes in the EEC-IV. A reader is $20. It's a beautiful thing when an inanimate object can tell you what is wrong with it.

Secondly, remove the throttle body and give it a good cleaning. I use 'Purple Stuff' available at the auto parts store, Lowes and Home Depot. Some will cry about a coating on the throttle body, but don't worry about it. That coating was supposed to keep deposits from adhering to the unit. Well, it's dirty isn't it? Therefore it's not working. Throttle bodies like to be clean. I use a toothbrush to scrub away the pain.
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:13 PM   #17
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i have done all dat befor i havent done it for a while i have done the codes wit the paper clip nd i got code number 157- MAF signal is/was low or grounded nd i got another code number 212 ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/swiring) pr SPOUT circuit fault nd the code number 113 IAT sensor is/was high or open
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:32 PM   #18
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The paper clip method is a little scary to me. For use in emergency only. You'll fry a computer and/or wiring.

Anywho, did you fix all the codes? do that first if not. Only use Mass Air Sensor cleaner from CRC automotive company. I should look up the MSDS, I have a feeling it's extremely expensive rubbing alcohol.

Back to the code reader. Get one. Here's the bonus.....in addition to reading the codes, it will perform tests for you such as the 'Cylinder Balance Test'. It will also run live 'key on engine running tests'. It pays for itself in the first use. And I'm not talking about cold hard cash...although that is paid for too. I'm talking about the worry, headaches, guessing, buying parts you don't need, bumming rides, not hearing your gf complain, freedom and happy motoring in general. A better use of a $20 bill.....they are hard to find my friend.
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:42 PM   #19
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i have cleand my maf sencor like a week ago im wating so i could buy a obd 2 scanner...im going to change my distributor today hopfuly dats the problem. im trying my best to.not waist money nd do guesses im doing my best to investigate all the stuff dats wrong wit my car. but u have helped me a lot man
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:29 PM   #20
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Check Craigslist too. You might even find someone local who will let u use theirs.
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:58 PM   #21
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what do u mean?
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:03 PM   #22
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Www Craigslist.org

Either buy a used code reader or use someone else's
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:08 PM   #23
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oh kk i understand now. found one in ebay for like 60 bucks
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:50 PM   #24
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If your v8 is pre 1996 then you have OBD1, a OBD2 reader will be a waste of money.
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:56 PM   #25
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oh kk i understand now. found one in ebay for like 60 bucks
2 Code Scanner Sunpro Import CP9025 Actron Ford Lincoln Mercury Boxed 1997 | eBay

---------- Post added at 05:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:52 PM ----------

Here ya go. $20.

Sunpro Code Scanner for Ford CP9015 Original Box Troubleshooting Guide | eBay

---------- Post added at 05:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:53 PM ----------

and $10.

Sunpro CP9015 Code Scanner Ford Lincoln Mercury | eBay
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:39 PM   #26
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thanks man i changed my distributor nd my car turnd on but right now wen i was driving it it turnd off agien
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:18 PM   #27
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If you can, check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the upper intake manifold.
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