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Old 06-19-2013, 08:24 AM   #1
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Long tube vs short tube

So I've been looking at headers trying to find ceramic long tubes I looked at Mac and all I see is chrome so what I'm asking is there a difference in flow sound or performance between long and short tube? I know bbk makes ceramic long tubes but I was thinking about going with a pro chamber so wanted to go Mac header also also I know there is a ton of questions about exhaust on here all the time but haven't really seen anything on this
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:58 AM   #2
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Nvm I found one sorry fellas
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:24 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by 94CobraUSMC View Post
So I've been looking at headers trying to find ceramic long tubes I looked at Mac and all I see is chrome so what I'm asking is there a difference in flow sound or performance between long and short tube? I know bbk makes ceramic long tubes but I was thinking about going with a pro chamber so wanted to go Mac header also also I know there is a ton of questions about exhaust on here all the time but haven't really seen anything on this
Long tubes will add more power but I don't think they pass smog
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:46 PM   #4
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Longtubes are best for performance.

Shorties are just slightly better and only worth it if your stock ones are messed up.
I say spend the $ elsewhere
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:27 PM   #5
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Longtubes are best for performance.

Shorties are just slightly better and only worth it if your stock ones are messed up.
I say spend the $ elsewhere
Thanks fellas I went with bbk ceramic long tubes should arrive next week
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:23 PM   #6
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Thanks fellas I went with bbk ceramic long tubes should arrive next week
Should work well with a good tune, if you want to see some power.
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:38 PM   #7
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Longtubes are best for performance.

Shorties are just slightly better and only worth it if your stock ones are messed up.
I say spend the $ elsewhere
Oh, no not on a 5.0 windsor. The 87-95 stock headers are so terrible it isn't even funny. Not only are the primaries 1 and 1/2" vs the 1 and 5/8" that all the aftermarket units have, they have crimps on them to make installing the header bolts at the factory easier which makes them more like 1" primaries... omfg terrible. Longtubes on a 5.0 are the best and unlike a modular you can do them in a few hours in the driveway. But shorties are well worth it vs the stockers if you go with them.

Just read up on the longtube install a lot before you do them. You'll need to remove the starter and unbolt the motor mounts/trans mount (unbolt trans mount at the crossmember, not the trans so you don't bend the eff out of it) and jack the motor up as high as it will go until the back of the intake literally touches the firewall. The passenger header goes in from the top, the driver's side goes in from underneath. For the driver's header you may need to remove the steering shaft during install an re-install it after you are done.

Oh, one last thing, get some stage 8 locking bolts or, better yet, ARP header STUDS. Header bolts love nothing more than backing out.
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:49 PM   #8
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Oh, no not on a 5.0 windsor. The 87-95 stock headers are so terrible it isn't even funny. Not only are the primaries 1 and 1/2" vs the 1 and 5/8" that all the aftermarket units have, they have crimps on them to make installing the header bolts at the factory easier which makes them more like 1" primaries... omfg terrible. Longtubes on a 5.0 are the best and unlike a modular you can do them in a few hours in the driveway. But shorties are well worth it vs the stockers if you go with them.

Just read up on the longtube install a lot before you do them. You'll need to remove the starter and unbolt the motor mounts/trans mount (unbolt trans mount at the crossmember, not the trans so you don't bend the eff out of it) and jack the motor up as high as it will go until the back of the intake literally touches the firewall. The passenger header goes in from the top, the driver's side goes in from underneath. For the driver's header you may need to remove the steering shaft during install an re-install it after you are done.

Oh, one last thing, get some stage 8 locking bolts or, better yet, ARP header STUDS. Header bolts love nothing more than backing out.
I had bbk shorty equal lengths on my 95 and omg what a pain having to replace gaskets lmao
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:53 PM   #9
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Equal lengths suck a bag of dicks to work on... no idea why anyone would put themselves through that...
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:15 PM   #10
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Equal lengths suck a bag of dicks to work on... no idea why anyone would put themselves through that...
I put them on with the crate motor right out of the crate lol
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:23 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post

Oh, no not on a 5.0 windsor. The 87-95 stock headers are so terrible it isn't even funny. Not only are the primaries 1 and 1/2" vs the 1 and 5/8" that all the aftermarket units have, they have crimps on them to make installing the header bolts at the factory easier which makes them more like 1" primaries... omfg terrible. Longtubes on a 5.0 are the best and unlike a modular you can do them in a few hours in the driveway. But shorties are well worth it vs the stockers if you go with them.

Just read up on the longtube install a lot before you do them. You'll need to remove the starter and unbolt the motor mounts/trans mount (unbolt trans mount at the crossmember, not the trans so you don't bend the eff out of it) and jack the motor up as high as it will go until the back of the intake literally touches the firewall. The passenger header goes in from the top, the driver's side goes in from underneath. For the driver's header you may need to remove the steering shaft during install an re-install it after you are done.

Oh, one last thing, get some stage 8 locking bolts or, better yet, ARP header STUDS. Header bolts love nothing more than backing out.
Well im in Japan my dads doing it there pulling the engine cleaning it all up then putting some fresh parts back in only really upgrades are cam and exhaust not trying to make anything fast just trying to make a toy I enjoy but all the suspension mods will be the big part
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:42 AM   #12
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^^ that's a pretty awesome dad lol and a upgraded cam and longtube headers with a good tune will get you a pretty good gain my friend
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:21 AM   #13
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^^ that's a pretty awesome dad lol and a upgraded cam and longtube headers with a good tune will get you a pretty good gain my friend
Yea keeps him busy when he's not playing with the Mach and ya it's just hard to keep up these days with the new 5.0 and the terminators and Machs I really wanna get a 94-95 gt make it look like my cobra and run a turbo set up when I'm done with the cobra
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Old 06-23-2013, 12:24 PM   #14
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^^ why don't you just turbo the cobra?! Don't get me wrong 94 and 95 gt's are nice and I own one but I would wont your cobra over it any day
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Old 06-24-2013, 01:56 AM   #15
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^^ why don't you just turbo the cobra?! Don't get me wrong 94 and 95 gt's are nice and I own one but I would wont your cobra over it any day
I mean the fact that its a 94 cobra with 90000 miles i still have all the original pieces so unless something happens to it I'm not gonna go wild. Trust me a 347 already crossed my mind
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:24 PM   #16
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Honestly, if I ever decide to own a 5.0 based car again, it will be a 94/95 Cobra and it will get a high compression NA 408 or 418 stroker tuned to run on 93 octane. It might even be carbed... at any rate this is really the only way to go with a 5.0 based car IMO if you are looking for over 450whp and less than like... 750whp...

I had a 95 a few years ago that I got with 40k on it and it had 66k when I sold it. I kind of do regret selling it but the car I have now is super nice too. What I did find out though is they really aren't as crazy collectible as ppl seem to think. You can find them with all sorts of mileage for all sorts of prices. My goal would be to find one that had a straight body with no rust issues, that is it. Mileage is not a big deal when you are going to tear out EVERYTHING and replace it with all new/aftermarket stuff.
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