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Old 07-29-2013, 11:39 PM   #1
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New or rebuild?

Pulling the 5.0 out of my fox. What I'm asking is should I rebuild it or it buy anew short block from LMR for 999.99$

Background on my 302.. I do have a cobra, so I have the GT40 heads, but I've got 140k on the clock. Runs fine down the road but I have no oil pressure at idle.. Also may have a slight knock..

Also I am on a budget, this is my secondary car, and I don't have a lot of spare cash, I don't plan on a monster build just a Saturday night cruiser with some power..

I'm looking for thoughts, prices, opinions.
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:28 AM   #2
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With 140K you may have quite a lot of cylinder wear. Depending on how much, you could possibly bore it. No oil pressure indicates worn crank journals. They can be turned and fitted with oversize bearings. Also, you will possibly want to change your cam and bearings if the lobes show any sign of flattening. That also means new lifters. In the end, between machine work and parts, it may cost just as much to rebuild as just buying a shorty. Don't do a valve job without new rings or you'll be a fogger. Best of luck.
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:00 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixpac View Post
Pulling the 5.0 out of my fox. What I'm asking is should I rebuild it or it buy anew short block from LMR for 999.99$

Background on my 302.. I do have a cobra, so I have the GT40 heads, but I've got 140k on the clock. Runs fine down the road but I have no oil pressure at idle.. Also may have a slight knock..

Also I am on a budget, this is my secondary car, and I don't have a lot of spare cash, I don't plan on a monster build just a Saturday night cruiser with some power..

I'm looking for thoughts, prices, opinions.
That's what I have I bought from LMR last year with HCI my car runs great
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:19 AM   #4
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With 140K you may have quite a lot of cylinder wear. Depending on how much, you could possibly bore it. No oil pressure indicates worn crank journals. They can be turned and fitted with oversize bearings. Also, you will possibly want to change your cam and bearings if the lobes show any sign of flattening. That also means new lifters. In the end, between machine work and parts, it may cost just as much to rebuild as just buying a shorty. Don't do a valve job without new rings or you'll be a fogger. Best of luck.
I don't seam to be burning much oil...
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:57 AM   #5
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I don't seam to be burning much oil...

If you have kept the scheduled maintenance up through it's life, cylinder wear will be at a minimum. If the power is still there your cam is probably OK also. Maybe you can get away with just changing bearings and seals. Unfortunately you don't know for sure until you tear it down and mic it. Good luck.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:00 AM   #6
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I don't seam to be burning much oil...

If you have kept the scheduled maintenance up through it's life, cylinder wear will be at a minimum. If the power is still there your cam is probably OK also. Maybe you can get away with just changing bearings and seals. Unfortunately you don't know for sure until you tear it down and mic it. Good luck.
Okay thanks.. Still have tons of power but I have only owned it for the last 5000 miles changed oil twice.. Put in the same amount I took out.. Still does 120 and I can leave the rubber at every stop sign.. I just don't have oil pressure at idle according to the gauge..
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:18 AM   #7
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I just don't have oil pressure at idle according to the gauge..

You might want to check pressure with a manual gauge. You may simply have a bad gauge. You can screw it into the block in place of the pressure sending unit close to where your filter is. More rare, but you may have a weak pressure relief spring in the oil pump. That would require a pan removal. I'd verify the gauge first.
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:28 PM   #8
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I just don't have oil pressure at idle according to the gauge..

You might want to check pressure with a manual gauge. You may simply have a bad gauge. You can screw it into the block in place of the pressure sending unit close to where your filter is. More rare, but you may have a weak pressure relief spring in the oil pump. That would require a pan removal. I'd verify the gauge first.
The gauge itself is crappy just like the sending unit (which is more of an on/off rather than an actual reading)
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:29 PM   #9
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The gauge itself is crappy just like the sending unit (which is more of an on/off rather than an actual reading)
So what do I need to get to check it..
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:49 PM   #10
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Well as bigmac said with a manual gauge would be the first step.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:47 PM   #11
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So what do I need to get to check it..

Manual gauges are relatively cheap. You need a short piece of hydraulic line (flexible is best) to screw into the block oil gallery and the other end to the gauge. There are several of these locations. Once attached start your engine and just read the gauge normally. That will tell you where the problem lies.

---------- Post added at 04:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:45 PM ----------

I could have mentioned that any pressure gauge will work. Pick up a generic one at any auto parts store. You should be able to get the line there also.
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