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Old 09-05-2013, 08:14 PM   #1
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need help identifying part under hood

Alright guys this is a pretty noob question, but what exactly is this? Its running open at the moment.



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Old 09-05-2013, 09:31 PM   #2
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The penis?

Seriously, what is it connected to?
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:33 PM   #3
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Thats a good response
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:35 PM   #4
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The penis?

Seriously, what is it connected to?
Hahaha yes that.
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:36 PM   #5
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Where does that tube come from?
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:38 PM   #6
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Where does that tube come from?
Can't really tell. Its coming from behind the engine. Ill take a better look tomorow when its daylight
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:50 PM   #7
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I believe it's the EGR tube that used to connect to your stock exhaust manifold. You've got headers on there now and it looks like someone plugged the tube.
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:52 PM   #8
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I believe it's the EGR tube that used to connect to your stock exhaust manifold. You've got headers on there now and it looks like someone plugged the tube.
Hmm I think my tuner took it off when he was tuning my car. That might explaine why it sounds like I have an exhaust leak after it warms up.
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:59 PM   #9
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Looks like some sort of damper, possibly with a diaphragm inside. It looks new. Most likely some smog apparatus. It would be interesting to know where it goes.

Not my year, so sorry. I'm not much help. I couldn't resist the joke.

Other folks can help.
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:04 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by InfinibandGT View Post
Looks like some sort of damper, possibly with a diaphragm inside. It looks new. Most likely some smog apparatus. It would be interesting to know where it goes.

Not my year, so sorry. I'm not much help. I couldn't resist the joke.

Other folks can help.
No problem man. I hear ya, I know more about the mod motors as well. I thought the joke was funny lol
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Old 09-06-2013, 02:17 AM   #11
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Couldn't tell you exactly what it's called but it goes to your smog pump.
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:28 AM   #12
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It's part of your emissions and EGR system. It is connected to the thermactor tube that connects to the back side of your heads. It will sound like an exhaust leak. The best way to plug it is unbolt them from the backs of the heads and use the actual eliminator plugs that any of your online mustang parts places carry. You'll be good to go.
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:37 AM   #13
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It's part of your emissions and EGR system. It is connected to the thermactor tube that connects to the back side of your heads. It will sound like an exhaust leak. The best way to plug it is unbolt them from the backs of the heads and use the actual eliminator plugs that any of your online mustang parts places carry. You'll be good to go.
+1. 5/8 course thread bolts will work to plug the heads. I cleaned mine out with a tap and then red loctite the suckers in there and cut the bolts flush to the head. I do this with every ford I can get my hands on. Both my cars my old truck and numerous friends cars now my F-150 this week.
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:38 AM   #14
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If it is the tube that connects to the back of each head, remove it from the back of the heads cut off the tubing and then flip over the blocks that were bolted to the heads and re bolt them up so the flat side with no hole in it is against the head and it completely blocks the hole in the head.
Or you can order the plug kit for it.
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:51 PM   #15
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Thanks for all the help guys. Woyldnt it just be easier to cap it off right where the tube ends though? I know it would look cleaner with it taken out, but if I remember right there's not much room to work with between the firewall and engine
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:59 PM   #16
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I had to cap mine the way you are referring to, because A) I had no room to work, and B) the pipe and heads had sooo much carbon deposit I couldn't get a bolt in if I tried. I figured since everything was plugged up then my smog wasn't doing anything either so I pulled the pump and plugged the pipe with an expansion plug. Like you, I didn't like doing it, but it is only til I get my stroker swapped in.
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:02 PM   #17
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I had to cap mine the way you are referring to, because A) I had no room to work, and B) the pipe and heads had sooo much carbon deposit I couldn't get a bolt in if I tried. I figured since everything was plugged up then my smog wasn't doing anything either so I pulled the pump and plugged the pipe with an expansion plug. Like you, I didn't like doing it, but it is only til I get my stroker swapped in.
Okay. Thanks for the info. I didn't think there was much room in there lol. I just want to get rid of that god awful sound it makes.
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Old 09-06-2013, 11:49 PM   #18
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+ 2 That piece - diaphragm looking thing is a one way check valve for the smog system.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:10 AM   #19
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Yea its part of your smog system. I jus plugged mine also like u said. An if the smog pump is still on there jus spinning away, then toss that POS. Emissisions things jus piss me off, lol
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Old 11-17-2013, 12:18 PM   #20
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well, as you now know. ... it's part of your EGR and it runs to the back of each head (the sound of exhaust leak?) qick fix if you want to remove it is two(2) 5/8" course bolts. install in the holes on back of each head after unbolting the tube. use loctite and cut off head of the bolts. I personally use bolts that have set key inside and if I recall it's a 1/4" hex wrench.


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Alright guys this is a pretty noob question, but what exactly is this? Its running open at the moment.



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Old 11-18-2013, 10:47 AM   #21
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Yea its part of your smog system. I jus plugged mine also like u said. An if the smog pump is still on there jus spinning away, then toss that POS. Emissisions things jus piss me off, lol
Smog pump also goes to the cats and if a state does visual inspections and the inspector knows what they are looking for they can fail you on that alone. If no inspections then trash it and run an OR pipe.
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Old 11-18-2013, 02:21 PM   #22
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That's the check valve for the cross over tube on the back of the heads.
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Old 11-23-2013, 02:09 AM   #23
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Thanks for all the help guys I got it capped off. I found out the exaust leak is from the headers, two header bolts are completely out.
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Old 11-23-2013, 06:23 AM   #24
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Thanks for all the help guys I got it capped off. I found out the exaust leak is from the headers, two header bolts are completely out.
lol you can see it in the first pic haha. Your gasket is probably toasted too from them being out. Hot gas will blow past it and fry it so time for new ones.

And get some stage 8 locking bolts when you do the header gaskets. Torque them to spec so you don't smoosh the gasket and create another leak (ridiculously common because nobody torques anything it seems) and then if the lock doesn't line up go tighter just to the point where you can make it line up.

I had the stage 8s on my Cobra and never had an issue.
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Old 11-23-2013, 08:13 AM   #25
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lol you can see it in the first pic haha. Your gasket is probably toasted too from them being out. Hot gas will blow past it and fry it so time for new ones. And get some stage 8 locking bolts when you do the header gaskets. Torque them to spec so you don't smoosh the gasket and create another leak (ridiculously common because nobody torques anything it seems) and then if the lock doesn't line up go tighter just to the point where you can make it line up. I had the stage 8s on my Cobra and never had an issue.
+1 on the stage 8s. Put some on my new engine before I dropped it back in. I really don't want to deal with header issues on my new edge.. Cheap insurance against that.
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:38 PM   #26
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+1 on the stage 8s. Put some on my new engine before I dropped it back in. I really don't want to deal with header issues on my new edge.. Cheap insurance against that.
Haha yeah same reason why I used them on my Longtube install. Such a PITA to go back and re tighten. I don't wish that on my worst enemy.
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Old 11-23-2013, 01:12 PM   #27
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The only thing negative I will say about them, and it applies to ANY header bolts is omfg header bolts are a pain in the nuts to get started and holding the header with 1 hand and trying to start another in a cramped space... no... this is with the engine in the car mind you. Good trick is to get some cheap bolts and cut the heads off and use them as studs. Or just get header studs but the nuts can still back off...

I had to do the longtubes with the motor in the car and what a pain in my crank that was... Especially the MACs where the flanges need some persuasion to line up.
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