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Old 09-25-2013, 02:12 AM   #1
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Steeda 19 cam

Yay wanted to know if anyone was running one and if they have a sound clip with it installed can't seam to find one on YouTube
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:36 PM   #2
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Doesn't sound very much different from stock honestly. For a 94/95 Cobra I would leave the HCI alone and work on the rest of the car first IMO. You'll get way more bang for you buck out of exhaust, gears etc...
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:52 PM   #3
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Doesn't sound very much different from stock honestly. For a 94/95 Cobra I would leave the HCI alone and work on the rest of the car first IMO. You'll get way more bang for you buck out of exhaust, gears etc...
thanks but I already have it I just wanted an idea how it will sound I'm currently over seas so that's why I was wondering
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:01 PM   #4
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Yay wanted to know if anyone was running one and if they have a sound clip with it installed can't seam to find one on YouTube
Take a look of the Crane Cam 2031. Good choice for 94 and 95 Cobra.
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Old 09-26-2013, 12:40 AM   #5
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Take a look of the Crane Cam 2031. Good choice for 94 and 95 Cobra.
I've already bought the steeda 19 cam it's good for what I'm wanting to do. I just wanted to know what she'll sound like or if it will make her lope a lil bit
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:41 AM   #6
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It'll lope a little. Not like an E cam or anything though. Just make sure you get a set of hardened pushrods and since you are using pedestal rockers you should be able to shim for correct length but its always best to measure. I'd leave it alone to avoid the hassle to be totally honest. The stock Cobra cam is a really good blower cam if you are planning to supercharge which is the best way to make an easy 400+whp on a 5.0 Cobra. Still have 0 idea why the 94/95 Cobras aren't in high demand. You get the updated body with the great pushrod engine with a set of heads/intake that actually flow and you get a numbered car... not sure what the downside is here lol.
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:46 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
It'll lope a little. Not like an E cam or anything though. Just make sure you get a set of hardened pushrods and since you are using pedestal rockers you should be able to shim for correct length but its always best to measure. I'd leave it alone to avoid the hassle to be totally honest. The stock Cobra cam is a really good blower cam if you are planning to supercharge which is the best way to make an easy 400+whp on a 5.0 Cobra. Still have 0 idea why the 94/95 Cobras aren't in high demand. You get the updated body with the great pushrod engine with a set of heads/intake that actually flow and you get a numbered car... not sure what the downside is here lol.
all that's replaced too and yes I do have hardened push rods but I'm gonna leave it N/A and on that note I loved the car bone stock but can't wait to get back to it with all the goodies on it. And thank you for being so much help
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
It'll lope a little. Not like an E cam or anything though. Just make sure you get a set of hardened pushrods and since you are using pedestal rockers you should be able to shim for correct length but its always best to measure. I'd leave it alone to avoid the hassle to be totally honest. The stock Cobra cam is a really good blower cam if you are planning to supercharge which is the best way to make an easy 400+whp on a 5.0 Cobra. Still have 0 idea why the 94/95 Cobras aren't in high demand. You get the updated body with the great pushrod engine with a set of heads/intake that actually flow and you get a numbered car... not sure what the downside is here lol.
I have a ecam in mine, I didn't put hardened pushrods when I swapped it out, am I gonna run into a problem?
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:14 AM   #9
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You should never change anything in your driveline without measuring for correct pushrod length and getting the right ones. Or at the very least shimming the stock rockers to have the correct wear pattern on the valve stem tips using the marker trick. Not having the right valvetrain geometry can cause power loss and premature valvetrain failure.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:40 AM   #10
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You should never change anything in your driveline without measuring for correct pushrod length and getting the right ones. Or at the very least shimming the stock rockers to have the correct wear pattern on the valve stem tips using the marker trick. Not having the right valvetrain geometry can cause power loss and premature valvetrain failure.
all I did was stock to e-cam swap and ported upper and lower intake...could I have a prob here in the future?
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:45 AM   #11
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I would have done the wear pattern test on the valve stem especially since you had the intake off it would have been very easy to pull out a lifter, throw a solid checking lifter in there and measure for correct length. Part of properly setting up a new cam is to make sure you have the correct pushrod length, checking PTV and wear pattern on the valve stems.

New springs are a good idea too since the stock springs are barely adequate for the stock cam when they are brand new. After 100k miles they're going to float with a bigger cam.
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Old 09-26-2013, 01:05 PM   #12
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I would have done the wear pattern test on the valve stem especially since you had the intake off it would have been very easy to pull out a lifter, throw a solid checking lifter in there and measure for correct length. Part of properly setting up a new cam is to make sure you have the correct pushrod length, checking PTV and wear pattern on the valve stems.

New springs are a good idea too since the stock springs are barely adequate for the stock cam when they are brand new. After 100k miles they're going to float with a bigger cam.
I have springs out of some trickflow heads that will go in and help, just haven't had the time to do it, plus I bought them after I did the cam install, guess ill do that next...
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