Fuel Pump 87 GT - Mustang Evolution

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Old 10-16-2013, 05:05 PM   #1
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Fuel Pump 87 GT

Well here i go again fuel pump went out so i replaced it new one isnt getting power checked the relay under the seat and all is normal until i turn the key on and the negative coming from the eec goes out. does anyone have any input for this issue? Dont want to go buy a new eec if not needed.
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:57 PM   #2
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If I'm not mistaken doesn't it have to plugs?could they be backwards?also make sure you are correct with the in line and out on the fuel pump
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:21 PM   #3
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replaced the pump and returned everything back to normal, pump wouldnt turn on I pulled the relay and the negative wire from the eec looses ground when the key turns on , I think possibly the eec could be creating the issue not sure if it is normal for that negative to go neutral while the key is on
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:39 PM   #4
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Does the pump prime?
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:46 PM   #5
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it wont turn on
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:19 PM   #6
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I believe there is an inertia switch in trunk by passenger side tail light that has reset switch and should have fuse links somewhere by ecc

---------- Post added at 07:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:19 PM ----------

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...oblems.854672/
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:35 PM   #7
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Inerta switch is hot the negative coming from the eec has 13 volts until i turn the switch on then it drops to 3 volts
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:45 PM   #8
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Kinds sounds like it's not grounded well.the link I put on has good info to check.try jumping the ecc to trick the fuel pump
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:50 AM   #9
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Did you get it figured out?
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Old 10-27-2013, 01:01 PM   #10
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Havent figured it out yet. Changed the ecm to a MAF set up and still have the same issue checked several fuseable links and so far all are good the problem comes and goes it will run for a while and then nothing. I have checked several ground connections also and i have three relays im working with to see if that is the problem and havent found any thing that corrects it yet. It started once this morning with the new computer and now the pump wont turn on again
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:40 PM   #11
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Does anyone know if there is some type of sending unit that tells the pump to turn on other than the ecm???? I'm running out of patience here trying to svoid an incurance clam
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:49 PM   #12
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Did you check the continuity (spelling?) of the grounds from the relay?
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:45 PM   #13
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checked the ground under the drivers seat and it checked out fine. car started and ran about 3 or 4 minutes then shuts off due to running out of fuel then i start checking stuff and all of a sudden it will start again but will only run a couple of minutes ???????????????????????????????????????
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:01 AM   #14
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Seems like I have heard fuel tank on pre 95 are shaped different and when going with bigger fuel pump causes problems.
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:48 AM   #15
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Quote:
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Seems like I have heard fuel tank on pre 95 are shaped different and when going with bigger fuel pump causes problems.

It's possible..how full is your tank?
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:58 PM   #16
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It's possible..how full is your tank?
it has over a 1/4 tank im going to put an extra 5 gals in it tomorrow and see what happens.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:01 AM   #17
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Seems like I have heard fuel tank on pre 95 are shaped different and when going with bigger fuel pump causes problems.
You heard wrong. The tanks changed in 98.
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Old 11-02-2013, 11:20 AM   #18
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well i think i have found the issue i will know for sure wed. the wiring harness at the fuel tank wont maintain good connection. fingers crossed.
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Old 11-05-2013, 08:06 PM   #19
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Problem solved bad harness at the tank one of the ears broke off and messed up the connection
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Old 11-05-2013, 08:08 PM   #20
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Glad you got it fixed.sound like it was a b
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Old 11-05-2013, 08:13 PM   #21
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It was frustrating as electrical issues are but after walking away a few times I figured it out. Thanks to everyone for the help. Now on to the next mods, 24 lb injectors , elderbrock heads cam and intake
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:16 AM   #22
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Electrical issues suck donkey d.usually when you get frustrated your best to walk away and give it a break
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:25 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by DK Racing View Post
It was frustrating as electrical issues are but after walking away a few times I figured it out. Thanks to everyone for the help. Now on to the next mods, 24 lb injectors , elderbrock heads cam and intake
Go with TFS or AFR heads over the Edels and this is from someone who had Edels and made over 300whp with them.

The better Edelbrock 6037s will not clear the pistons without fly cutting or new pistons. The ones that will clear only have 1.90 intake valves and are meh. TFS 170cc heads and AFR 165s will both clear no problem and make better power to boot. If you are going to do a HCI I suggest just getting the entire TFS top end kit with the Street heat intake.

You can also supercharge for the same money and make more power.
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Old 11-09-2013, 02:13 PM   #24
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Go with TFS or AFR heads over the Edels and this is from someone who had Edels and made over 300whp with them.

The better Edelbrock 6037s will not clear the pistons without fly cutting or new pistons. The ones that will clear only have 1.90 intake valves and are meh. TFS 170cc heads and AFR 165s will both clear no problem and make better power to boot. If you are going to do a HCI I suggest just getting the entire TFS top end kit with the Street heat intake.

You can also supercharge for the same money and make more power.
well i am working on a deal to trade an old truck for the heads, i need to check to see if they clear the pistons first. not trying to get real big thinking 24# injectors, 72 mm tb, cam, gt 40 intake with the eld heads. dont want to do the supercharger thing either i only want it to be around the 300 RWHP mark.
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:32 PM   #25
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Well it turned up again and it is the ECU
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