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Old 10-16-2013, 06:06 PM   #1
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Am i ready?

I've got a 95 gt with
Roller rockers gt-40 aluminum heads, gt-40 upper intake, fms cold air intake, under drive pullies 65mm throttle body, fms heads, Mac h-pipe, borla racing exhaust, 355 gears, king cobra clutch with short throw shifter, and a sct bank eliminator chip. Am I ready for a supercharger and what would I need?
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:43 PM   #2
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Could always do fuel rail and injectors
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:04 PM   #3
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Could always do fuel rail and injectors
+1

You will need to upgrade your fuel system for sure, probably should with what you have now; and I would reccomend some suspension parts (atleast sfc's and lac's) to help you put the power to the ground. Is It the stock bottom end? If so, make sure you get a good dyno tune, cause you're probably pushing the limits of the internals with a S/C. Sounds like a sick setup as is, I bet you would benefit from a cam as too.

And I'd recommend a Vortech ki,t as I have one and love it.

Also upgrade to a 70mm tb if you go F.I.
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:43 AM   #4
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Cam is not needed with the Vortech, its actually a very good blower cam honestly. You will need new injectors, pump and you should do braided fuel lines to the rails as the stock ones are known to wear out and literally start fires from fuel leaks.

And yes, suspension, suspension, suspension. You will run faster with what you have now and a nice suspension/wheel/tire setup than you will on the stock stuff and a supercharger.
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:51 AM   #5
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I would start with fuel system first.then injectors then you can do s/c
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:03 PM   #6
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I've got a 2 inch lowering kit but I believe that's it for suspension, anyone know how much power stock transmission and such can handle? I am planning on doing stage 2 or 3 cam before the supercharger, what size of injectors would you suggest?

---------- Post added at 04:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:01 PM ----------

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Originally Posted by Liebert91stang View Post
I would start with fuel system first.then injectors then you can do s/c
And what is s/c? Is that suspension?

---------- Post added at 04:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:02 PM ----------

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+1 You will need to upgrade your fuel system for sure, probably should with what you have now; and I would reccomend some suspension parts (atleast sfc's and lac's) to help you put the power to the ground. Is It the stock bottom end? If so, make sure you get a good dyno tune, cause you're probably pushing the limits of the internals with a S/C. Sounds like a sick setup as is, I bet you would benefit from a cam as too. And I'd recommend a Vortech ki,t as I have one and love it. Also upgrade to a 70mm tb if you go F.I.
And what are (sfc's and lac's) ?
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:10 PM   #7
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-S/C is short for supercharger

-SFC is short for sub frame connectors

-I meant LCA's (not lac's) which is lower control arms
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:49 PM   #8
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I've got a 2 inch lowering kit but I believe that's it for suspension, anyone know how much power stock transmission and such can handle? I am planning on doing stage 2 or 3 cam before the supercharger, what size of injectors would you suggest?

---------- Post added at 04:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:01 PM ----------



And what is s/c? Is that suspension?

---------- Post added at 04:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:02 PM ----------



And what are (sfc's and lac's) ?
T-5 will likely blow up behind a supercharger but there are factory freaks that won't. You can get the built with an Astro gearset to take way more power or you an upgrade to a T-45/3650 or a TKO (shift like crap) or a T-56 or go auto. The T45/3650 have adapters now which allow them to bolt up to quicktime/tremec housings and mount to a variety of motors.
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:36 AM   #9
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Should be 5.0 for 95 not 4.6 right..... I agree with Scotty... The cam really isn't needed seeing how the mods you already have and a supercharger will easily give you stock block splitting power. Unless you just really want to spend $200+ for the lope.
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:03 PM   #10
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Should be 5.0 for 95 not 4.6 right..... I agree with Scotty... The cam really isn't needed seeing how the mods you already have and a supercharger will easily give you stock block splitting power. Unless you just really want to spend $200+ for the lope.
I keep thinking he has a modular because of his damn tail lights... edited my above post lol.

The T-5 is a glass jaw trans. Should be replaced with something else.

Good shifting options are:

T-45
3650

And yes before someone comes in and says "not for a 5.0" you can have them built without the integral bellhousings they have stock and use a Quicktime or Tremec bell to mount them to a 5.0 motor.

T-56 is pricey but doable.

TKOs are beefy but shift like ***.

You can also drop $2k on an Astro T-5 gearset which will make your current trans good for 500whp or so with the stock 10 spline input shaft. Don't think anyone makes a 26 spline SN95 input so you'd have to do a fox bell/fork setup with an adjustable crossmember to do a fully built T-5.
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:06 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
I keep thinking he has a modular because of his damn tail lights... edited my above post lol. The T-5 is a glass jaw trans. Should be replaced with something else. Good shifting options are: T-45 3650 And yes before someone comes in and says "not for a 5.0" you can have them built without the integral bellhousings they have stock and use a Quicktime or Tremec bell to mount them to a 5.0 motor. T-56 is pricey but doable. TKOs are beefy but shift like ***. You can also drop $2k on an Astro T-5 gearset which will make your current trans good for 500whp or so with the stock 10 spline input shaft. Don't think anyone makes a 26 spline SN95 input so you'd have to do a fox bell/fork setup with an adjustable crossmember to do a fully built T-5.
If you want to shift above 6k rpm I would advise against the 3650.
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Old 10-19-2013, 01:48 PM   #12
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If you want to shift above 6k rpm I would advise against the 3650.
Maybe stock. A Hanlon built one will shift to 8k no problem.
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:12 PM   #13
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Ya my car is a 95 5.0 I had the tai lights changed, I was hoping id be able to just put on a twin screw supercharger or a top mount supercharger and upgrade my injectors, but even though with my mods I still have

Injectors, fuel system, fuel pump, suspension work, and transmission upgrade to do?
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:25 PM   #14
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Ya my car is a 95 5.0 I had the tai lights changed, I was hoping id be able to just put on a twin screw supercharger or a top mount supercharger and upgrade my injectors, but even though with my mods I still have

Injectors, fuel system, fuel pump, suspension work, and transmission upgrade to do?
Yep, full fuel system, more suspension and you will want an astro built T-5 or upgrade to something else.
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:02 AM   #15
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Yep, full fuel system, more suspension and you will want an astro built T-5 or upgrade to something else.
What suspension do you suggest and what parts would I need? Like you said control arms, etc...
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:29 AM   #16
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You can start with the base vortech kit with an fmu to start. It's the cheapest best bang for your buck. I know it's old school but it works!!
Then as you want more power you can upgrade from there along with everything else. How much power are you making now, around 300? With a 4-6 psi kit you'll be around 380 390 rwhp
Ther are plenty of guys at the track with stock rear suspension Makin 400 hp and launching at 4k rpm. Sure something might break but not everybody is rich. It cost a fortune to build every aspect of your car.
I say charge it and go have some fun
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:06 AM   #17
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See I'm the opposite. Build the car to take the power first or it'll be more expensive later on. A 275hp car with the right suspension setup and good fat tires is going to run a faster time than a blown stock suspension setup car at the track. Just doing pulls from a roll on the street, probably will be fine with the blower and a basic control arm/lowering spring setup.

FMU on 19lb injectors is also a BAD idea. Even on 24s you'll be at 100% duty cycle and running out of fuel up top.
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Old 10-22-2013, 11:02 AM   #18
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Tires yes are huge!!! Part of it
And no his car the way it sits with control arms and springs would not run faster then his car with a blower and stock arms
Watch some videos on countless stangs on stock parts going very fast on just slicks don't get hung up on oh I need control arms to go fast lol if you look at it that way you'd have to buy everything in the book and at your level of hp stock arms will be fine eventually you'll just spit the rubbers out from hard launching
Then you can buy some upgrades with some poly bushings even go adjustable they're always a nice addition

And yes sorry injectors are a must as well as sfc
Feel free to debate my views haha
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Old 10-22-2013, 11:40 AM   #19
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Lol I've seen stock suspension ones go fast at the track too, I've also seen 800hp GT500s that can't get into the 10s because they are on stock suspension. But that's a little like comparing apples to oranges.

I have also seen a full weight bolt on only with worked suspension 2V do a 12.5 so food for thought. Was an auto with a 3500 stall, 4.10s and ET streets.
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Old 10-22-2013, 02:22 PM   #20
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Lol I've seen stock suspension ones go fast at the track too, I've also seen 800hp GT500s that can't get into the 10s because they are on stock suspension. But that's a little like comparing apples to oranges.

I have also seen a full weight bolt on only with worked suspension 2V do a 12.5 so food for thought. Was an auto with a 3500 stall, 4.10s and ET streets.
I've been dying to do suspension and gears for my car ...what the cheapest reasonable control arms? I'm going to be running 8.5 inch slicks on Bullitt springs
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Old 10-22-2013, 10:39 PM   #21
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Steedas or MM ones.
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Old 10-27-2013, 12:45 PM   #22
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You can start with the base vortech kit with an fmu to start. It's the cheapest best bang for your buck. I know it's old school but it works!! Then as you want more power you can upgrade from there along with everything else. How much power are you making now, around 300? With a 4-6 psi kit you'll be around 380 390 rwhp Ther are plenty of guys at the track with stock rear suspension Makin 400 hp and launching at 4k rpm. Sure something might break but not everybody is rich. It cost a fortune to build every aspect of your car. I say charge it and go have some fun
I'm sitting around almost 300 wheel horsepower yes. I'm hoping to get at least 80-120hp gain. You suggest a centrifugal supercharger? I was thinking just an easy eaton top mount supercharger or something. I would upgrade my fuel pump and injectors, probably 30lb injectors.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:03 AM   #23
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Might as well head into the #40s
You don't need to do fuel lines or rails at this level
Just do the in tank pump and injectors with the entry level vortech a tune and hit the street!!
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:27 AM   #24
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OP, what year is your car? I can't remember, so hopefully somebody can chime in here. You may want research your gas tank. I believe in 97 or 98 they changed the shape of the tank. They put the pump in a "basket". Guys that go FI usually have to change their tank because even with a bigger pump it can keep up because of the shape of the tank.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:40 AM   #25
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It's a 95,
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:10 AM   #26
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It's a 95,
Your tank is fine then. I have a 96 and my tank is good.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:29 PM   #27
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Whiny v1
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:42 PM   #28
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Sounds like win.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:13 PM   #29
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Damn, nice whistling growl. Made my day
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Old 10-29-2013, 01:13 AM   #30
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Damn that sounds good, clean and nice overall setup of your car!
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:50 AM   #31
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Sounds like mine sans supercharger. I run a full MAC on my hatch. I love the raunchy sound lol
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