Egr Valve/Check engine timing Question - Mustang Evolution

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Old 11-25-2013, 11:12 AM   #1
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Question Egr Valve/Check engine timing Question

Just did a diagnostics test using the actron code scanner and when i did a KOEO(Key On Engine Off) test the system tested and gave me the code for no problems, system is fine. Then I performed a Cylinder Balance Test and that checked out fine as well. When I did the KOER(Key On Engine Running) Test I only got one code which was a code #33. In the Actron manual that code states"#33: EGR Valve Position Sensor or Pressure Feedback EGR(PFE) Sensor indicates EGR Valve not opening OR EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor or Pressure Feedback EGR(PFE) sensor indicates EGR Valve no seated(closed) Properly. I have an 88 5.0; does the EGR valve on this model have a pressure feedback sensor? Or does it only have a position sensor? Also I tired taking the little white vacuum tube(that connects to egr valve) and its so old that is snapped.. Could I buy that from a regular parts store such as: Autozone or Advanced Auto? There was no suction from the valve or the white tube before it broke either. Also I wanted to perform a Check Engine Timing test as well but what do i look for? The book tells me how to perform such test although, it doesnt show me what or how to check the timing it just says: "Put scanner on test position(after the engine is started and warm also while the tester is previously on hold), Wait for the end of all service code signals, then to check engine timing... what do i do to check the engine timing? After the "check engine timing" step it tells me to just turn off the engine..?

Thank you.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:07 PM   #2
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You don't need to buy the plastic/nylon vacuum line, you can buy a very small piece of wiper tubing and slip it over both broken ends. The problem with buying the tubing is you still need the rubber ends and that usually becomes a problem finding the rubber ends and if you do attaching the rubber end to the plastic/nylon tubing not getting a leak.


33 - EGR valve opening not detected

Before you replace the EGR valve, check the vac line running from the EGR valve to the EVR solenoid. It may be cracked or even clogged. The EVR solenoid is on backside of the passenger’s side strut tower. If the line is ok, connect a hand held vac pump to the EGR valve and apply 2-3 inches of vacuum. If the EGR valve does not hold vacuum, replace it. If it does hold vacuum, replace the EVR solenoid.

This is a better explanation of code33 and what you need to look for to solve the problem. EGR/EVP Codes 31/32/33/34/35 Troubleshooting

Set Timing.
Remove the #1 plug, then with a breaker bar and a short extension and the correct socket hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation until you feel the air escape through the #1 plug hole, if you don’t feel any air escaping but you see the pointer on the 0 timing mark that means your on the exhaust stroke not the compression stroke, just keep rotation the engine until you feel all the air escape. I’ll even stick a long pencil in the #1 plug hole and watch it as it comes to the very top and if I see if start to go back down II know I’ve gone to far.

At this point try dropping the distributor in, remember the teeth on the cam and distributor are angled so the distributor will need to be rotated to compensate.
When the distributor drops in you could be ahead or behind the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap just pick it up and re stab it so that you will line up with the #1 plug.
One last thing….. if the distributor points to the #1 plug but the distributor won’t full seat more than likely your not lined up on the oil pump shaft. Hold the distributor and slightly rotate the motor clockwise and the oil pump shaft will rotate enough to let the distributor fully seat.
To double check everything (if you use a pencil remove it) and rotate the engine again until you feel the compression start to exit the #1 plug hole and watch to see where your timing mark is and the check the to make sure you’re on the #1 plug wire.

Reinstall the #1 plug put the distributor cap on, snug but do not tighten the distributor bolt at this time, set up your timing light, remove the spout connector (The reason you disconnect the spout connector is so the computer doesn't automatically change the timing when you move the distributor, which will let you set the base timing) start the engine and set the correct timing by moving the distributor or what ever timing you chose, then tighten the bolt on the distributor and plug in the Spout connector.

Or another way is to remove #1 spark plug, plug the hole with a rag or napkin, click the starter until the rag/napkin plug is expelled, rotate engine to nearest TDC mark (CW rotation)....and check rotor position.


If you're looking for a better explanation and picture.
How to set the timing EFI Distributor Installation and Initial Spark Calibration
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALMOST STOCK View Post
You don't need to buy the plastic/nylon vacuum line, you can buy a very small piece of wiper tubing and slip it over both broken ends. The problem with buying the tubing is you still need the rubber ends and that usually becomes a problem finding the rubber ends and if you do attaching the rubber end to the plastic/nylon tubing not getting a leak.


33 - EGR valve opening not detected

Before you replace the EGR valve, check the vac line running from the EGR valve to the EVR solenoid. It may be cracked or even clogged. The EVR solenoid is on backside of the passenger’s side strut tower. If the line is ok, connect a hand held vac pump to the EGR valve and apply 2-3 inches of vacuum. If the EGR valve does not hold vacuum, replace it. If it does hold vacuum, replace the EVR solenoid.

This is a better explanation of code33 and what you need to look for to solve the problem. EGR/EVP Codes 31/32/33/34/35 Troubleshooting

Set Timing.
Remove the #1 plug, then with a breaker bar and a short extension and the correct socket hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation until you feel the air escape through the #1 plug hole, if you don’t feel any air escaping but you see the pointer on the 0 timing mark that means your on the exhaust stroke not the compression stroke, just keep rotation the engine until you feel all the air escape. I’ll even stick a long pencil in the #1 plug hole and watch it as it comes to the very top and if I see if start to go back down II know I’ve gone to far.

At this point try dropping the distributor in, remember the teeth on the cam and distributor are angled so the distributor will need to be rotated to compensate.
When the distributor drops in you could be ahead or behind the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap just pick it up and re stab it so that you will line up with the #1 plug.
One last thing….. if the distributor points to the #1 plug but the distributor won’t full seat more than likely your not lined up on the oil pump shaft. Hold the distributor and slightly rotate the motor clockwise and the oil pump shaft will rotate enough to let the distributor fully seat.
To double check everything (if you use a pencil remove it) and rotate the engine again until you feel the compression start to exit the #1 plug hole and watch to see where your timing mark is and the check the to make sure you’re on the #1 plug wire.

Reinstall the #1 plug put the distributor cap on, snug but do not tighten the distributor bolt at this time, set up your timing light, remove the spout connector (The reason you disconnect the spout connector is so the computer doesn't automatically change the timing when you move the distributor, which will let you set the base timing) start the engine and set the correct timing by moving the distributor or what ever timing you chose, then tighten the bolt on the distributor and plug in the Spout connector.

Or another way is to remove #1 spark plug, plug the hole with a rag or napkin, click the starter until the rag/napkin plug is expelled, rotate engine to nearest TDC mark (CW rotation)....and check rotor position.


If you're looking for a better explanation and picture.
How to set the timing EFI Distributor Installation and Initial Spark Calibration
So if i buy the wiper tubing, i still need to buy rubber?.. what rubber exactly...?
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:32 PM   #4
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The wiper tubing is just to slip over the 2 ends so that you can attach the 2 ends back together like in the attachment below.

The 90 degree rubber end that is attached to the plastic/nylon tubing that slips over the metal nipple on the EGR is what I'm referring to that is hard to find and make work so that you don't have a vacuum leak.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALMOST STOCK View Post
The wiper tubing is just to slip over the 2 ends so that you can attach the 2 ends back together like in the attachment below.

The 90 degree rubber end that is attached to the plastic/nylon tubing that slips over the metal nipple on the EGR is what I'm referring to that is hard to find and make work so that you don't have a vacuum leak.
Oh okay so youre saying buy the wiper tubing just to slide over both ends so that i dont have to have to look everywhere for that 90 degree rubber. I gotcha
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antnvlz1294 View Post
Oh okay so youre saying buy the wiper tubing just to slide over both ends so that i dont have to have to look everywhere for that 90 degree rubber. I gotcha
Yep you got it!
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:39 PM   #7
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Yep you got it!
Thanks!! Does it matter what kind i buy or is it a specific type?
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:44 PM   #8
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Just take your broken plastic vacuum line with you and ask for rubber windshield wiper tubing so that you know it's a snug fit over the vacuum line.
I used spit inside the rubber tubing to slide the rubber tubing over the plastic vacuum line the fit was that tight.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:48 PM   #9
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Just take your broken plastic vacuum line with you and ask for rubber windshield wiper tubing so that you know it's a snug fit over the vacuum line.
I used spit inside the rubber tubing to slide the rubber tubing over the plastic vacuum line the fit was that tight.
Holy crap haha. Be sure to do that tomorrow!
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