You don't need to buy the plastic/nylon vacuum line, you can buy a very small piece of wiper tubing and slip it over both broken ends. The problem with buying the tubing is you still need the rubber ends and that usually becomes a problem finding the rubber ends and if you do attaching the rubber end to the plastic/nylon tubing not getting a leak.
33 - EGR valve opening not detected
Before you replace the EGR valve, check the vac line running from the EGR valve to the EVR solenoid. It may be cracked or even clogged. The EVR solenoid is on backside of the passenger’s side strut tower. If the line is ok, connect a hand held vac pump to the EGR valve and apply 2-3 inches of vacuum. If the EGR valve does not hold vacuum, replace it. If it does hold vacuum, replace the EVR solenoid.
This is a better explanation of code33 and what you need to look for to solve the problem. EGR/EVP Codes 31/32/33/34/35 Troubleshooting
Remove the #1 plug, then with a breaker bar and a short extension and the correct socket hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation until you feel the air escape through the #1 plug hole, if you don’t feel any air escaping but you see the pointer on the 0 timing mark that means your on the exhaust stroke not the compression stroke, just keep rotation the engine until you feel all the air escape. I’ll even stick a long pencil in the #1 plug hole and watch it as it comes to the very top and if I see if start to go back down II know I’ve gone to far.
At this point try dropping the distributor in, remember the teeth on the cam and distributor are angled so the distributor will need to be rotated to compensate.
When the distributor drops in you could be ahead or behind the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap just pick it up and re stab it so that you will line up with the #1 plug.
One last thing….. if the distributor points to the #1 plug but the distributor won’t full seat more than likely your not lined up on the oil pump shaft. Hold the distributor and slightly rotate the motor clockwise and the oil pump shaft will rotate enough to let the distributor fully seat.
To double check everything (if you use a pencil remove it) and rotate the engine again until you feel the compression start to exit the #1 plug hole and watch to see where your timing mark is and the check the to make sure you’re on the #1 plug wire.
Reinstall the #1 plug put the distributor cap on, snug but do not tighten the distributor bolt at this time, set up your timing light, remove the spout connector (The reason you disconnect the spout connector is so the computer doesn't automatically change the timing when you move the distributor, which will let you set the base timing) start the engine and set the correct timing by moving the distributor or what ever timing you chose, then tighten the bolt on the distributor and plug in the Spout connector.
Or another way is to remove #1 spark plug, plug the hole with a rag or napkin, click the starter until the rag/napkin plug is expelled, rotate engine to nearest TDC mark (CW rotation)....and check rotor position.
If you're looking for a better explanation and picture.
How to set the timing EFI Distributor Installation and Initial Spark Calibration