GT40 Heads & Intake ???'s - Mustang Evolution

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Old 12-05-2013, 03:48 PM   #1
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GT40 Heads & Intake ???'s

Hi Stangsters !!!
I bought a GT40 upper & Lower Intake & a set of GT40 3-Bar Heads from a 96 Explorer. The Explorer's odometer was at almost 200K mi. so I'm wondering what all I should do to the Heads. I want to put Roller Rockers but not sure what the difference would be using 1.6 or 1.7 Rockers. What about Push Rods, Springs, etc? Are there specific one for certain cams & Rocker Set ups ? I've never built an engine before so all advice would be helpful. I'm thinking I'll probably have to have a Valve job...but not sure??? Give me some ideas on what to do to these heads. Also...how do I know which cam to use with the Rockers. I'm going to use a 70mm Throttle Body w/ 75mm MAF Sensor. I'm running Shorty Headers, Hi-Flo Cats w/ X-Pipe & Glass Packs all 2.5" exhaust. Not sure any of that makes a difference...but thought it might be helpful. I'm trying to get 300+++ H.P. out of a 94 Mustang 5.0.
Thx to anyone & everyone who sends some advice.
Sincerely, HELLISH HORSE
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:59 PM   #2
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A lot of info about the GT 40 heads and intake here.

Heads... Five.Oh Info : The Ultimate Ford GT40 and GT40P Cylinder Head FAQ

Intake... The Ultimate GT40, Cobra and Explorer Intake Manifold FAQ - FiveOhInfo.com
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:39 PM   #3
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with those heads and intake , and a good street cam ( E303 ) headers, exhaust , etc you can easily achieve 300 HP
If your going to go with a cam there's no need to go with 1.7 rockers ,just stay with 1.6's
1.7 actually increase cam lift and are good for about 10HP on a stock cam
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Old 12-05-2013, 05:43 PM   #4
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The 1.7 rockers will met you a little more top end and need to check to see if they will work.rhe 1.6 sound better
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:41 PM   #5
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You can do 300hp with that combo NA but not 300whp. Ported GT40s can do it but that's a complete waste of money since by the time you port them you'll be into them for as much as a set of aluminums.

With that said getting them cleaned up and put on is a great budget build that will put a smile on your face and leave you room to grow later with a supercharger if you so choose.

What you should do with those heads:

-Cleaning
-Valve job
-Possibly new valves
-New springs
-New seals/locks/retainers

IMO, the magic number on these heads is $500, maybe a few bucks more INCLUDING the initial cost of the heads. Any more than that and you might as well find a set of used aluminums but again that is just MO.

Now roller rockers, go with whichever one, even the stamped stock 1.6s are fine honestly. Pushrods... you HAVE TO MEASURE. There is nobody who can tell you what length you need except Mr. Digital Caliper and Mr. Adjustable pushrod tool. If you use some random length you WILL get premature valvetrain wear and power loss. Google how to check pushrod length, there are youtube videos too.

For a cam... I'd recommend a $100 used TFS1 from the Corral. Great budget OTS cam and works well with GT40s. The Crane 2030 and 2031 cams also are great for GT40s as are the letter cams and the Steeda 19. No need for any sort of crazy OTS or custom cam setup here.
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Old 12-06-2013, 05:36 AM   #6
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Sounds reasonable. I got the Heads for $86 & the Intake for $42 at the boneyard so not much invested so far. There's a guy on craigslist in my area selling a set of 1.6 Roller Rockers with Springs, Retainers, Guides & the cam for $300. All are Ford Racing Products.
Would this be a good set up & is it a fair price ? I'm ready to jump on it ...but just not sure if it's what I need. I'll still have to get the Rods & have the Valves done. Is it necessary to do anything to the bottom end as the car runs good now & doesn't burn any oil ? If I don't have to mess with the bottom end at all I can have this all done in a month or two.
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:53 AM   #7
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That doesn't sound too bad of a price IF it's ford products.i would look at the bottom end while you have everything off but you shouldn't have to touch it.should be a nice 40 plus hp setup
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Old 12-06-2013, 07:20 AM   #8
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If that $300 spring/retainer/lock/cam/rocker is new then yeah that's a good price. If used then the cam is still probably good and so are the rockers but I would not buy used springs. I can't imagine the seals are used... The cam is probably a b or e cam, those are both good for the GT40s. Offer him $225 lol.
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Old 12-06-2013, 07:33 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
If that $300 spring/retainer/lock/cam/rocker is new then yeah that's a good price. If used then the cam is still probably good and so are the rockers but I would not buy used springs. I can't imagine the seals are used... The cam is probably a b or e cam, those are both good for the GT40s. Offer him $225 lol.
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Old 12-06-2013, 07:53 AM   #10
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X2
I still say one of the most underrated, best performing combos in pushrod land is a GT40 top end with a stock cam. Gobs of bottom end, does not fall off up top like you'd think (definitely not like the GT does) and flows more than enough air to max out the block with a supercharger or a turbo later on down the line. Also the GT cam gives you bone stock driveability and gas mileage.

GT40 5.0 motor with an intercooled Vortech and all the other "bolt ons" with a really good tune will get you 20-25mpg highway going 70mph with your foot out of it but will put down a low 11 second 1/4 mile no problem all day if you want it to. Street manners are also perfect since its the stock cam which is actually a very serviceable blower cam. The letter cams and some of the milder OTS cams are great too and you can dial them in pretty good as well.

edit: They are also cheap as **** to build. I've put more than a few pushrods together and if you know what you are doing you can do it for $1k up and running start to finish. As long as your block hones up to stock spec anyway.
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Old 12-07-2013, 05:01 AM   #11
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Thanks alot you guys. Alot of useful info here & it's given me a better idea which way to go. I'll get the Valve job done. Use the 1.7 R.R.'s with new springs, seals & Retainers.
Just use the Stock H.O. Cam. And now...to figure out the correct pushrods ??? I think doing this along with having 3:73's installed just might give me the extra bump I'm looking for. I plan to give this car to my son for his 16th B-Day & being a 1st car I don't want it to have too much power for him. I gotta get me a 2013 after I finish this car up.
Thx again for the help.
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:44 PM   #12
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Uh, my first car I had myself on my own was a 91GT that had the stock E7 heads/intake and I nearly killed myself a few times. I'd probably put 3.08s in there if a 16 yr old is getting it. Will keep him from accelerating too fast like a maniac. I mean it also all depends on the kid getting it. Might be very responsible and safe driver. IME, most aren't but there are exceptions. I was not an exception haha.
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:57 PM   #13
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Uh, my first car I had myself on my own was a 91GT that had the stock E7 heads/intake and I nearly killed myself a few times. I'd probably put 3.08s in there if a 16 yr old is getting it. Will keep him from accelerating too fast like a maniac. I mean it also all depends on the kid getting it. Might be very responsible and safe driver. IME, most aren't but there are exceptions. I was not an exception haha.
hey Scotty what's a proven best h/c/I for a foxbody? (If price was no option)
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:01 PM   #14
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Trick flow has proven results on any vehicle.
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:05 PM   #15
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hey Scotty what's a proven best h/c/I for a foxbody? (If price was no option)
There is no... "best" option, all depends on what you want. MY best option for a street car is:

-TW 170s
-Tmoss Ported Cobra intake
-FTI or Buddy Rawls Custom cam

What I would do if I had another 5.0 is:

Budget Build:

- GT40 Heads/Intake/Stock Cam/S-trim

Beast Build:

408 Stroker

-TW 205s
-FTI/Buddy Cam
-Performer RPM
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:46 PM   #16
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If you're reusing the stock cam you can use stock length pushrods
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:09 PM   #17
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If you're reusing the stock cam you can use stock length pushrods
Negative ghostrider. Heads might be a little off, HG thickness might not be the same, rocker arm geometry etc...

Just assuming your pushrods are going to be the right length is busch league.
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:17 PM   #18
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From my experience it takes extreme differences to need different pushrod length. Example, I just put my vettes top end on. New cam slightly bigger than stock, 64cc heads compared to the stock 74cc heads. Stock pushrod length. I know its a Chevy but the concept is the same. Obviously I checked and he should also but I'd bet it'll be stock length
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:21 PM   #19
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Did you convert to a solid checking lifter and use a digital micrometer? Where were the marks on the valve tips and how wide were they? In my experience just a few thousandths threw off the mark.

You should always check, even if it does wind up being stock length. Checking is easy and I have 0 clue why people don't want to.
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Old 12-13-2013, 09:09 PM   #20
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Yes I did convert them. The witness marks were right in the middle and pretty thin. I agree tho that you should always check. Otherwise it can be an expensive lesson learned.
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:28 AM   #21
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Ok well then the stock length worked for you but at least you checked. I've seen threads where ppl get like... legit mad because "why won't anyone just tell me what length I need for this combo?!". Because nobody can but you that's why. Always check.
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