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Old 02-21-2014, 08:49 AM   #36
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Well I have always had lots of gains from my cam swaps without tuning it, hence the reason i have always upgraded it. As for the 94/95 computer not running well with the f303, that's crap. I ran mine for 3 years with a mildly built 351w and that same cam with no tune at all on a stock computer. Car ran like a scalded dog. Never any issues at all. Now I do agree that you should get a tune if you can afford it but telling someone there car won't run well without it is crap because I did it.
The first time I did a cam swap in a 94/95 car I thought I had great gains too, felt stronger on the SOTP meter and I even got it to idle well although I could smell raw gas so I knew it was rich. Took that car to the dyno and my a/f ratio was WAY off and the car picked up over 40whp from baseline to final tune. I'm not saying you can't get them to run, I'm saying without a tune you will have a jacked up a A/F ratio and be way down on power from what you would if you tuned it.

It blows my mind when ppl do all this work to their cars and spend all this money and then don't go get it tuned.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:57 AM   #37
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The first time I did a cam swap in a 94/95 car I thought I had great gains too, felt stronger on the SOTP meter and I even got it to idle well although I could smell raw gas so I knew it was rich. Took that car to the dyno and my a/f ratio was WAY off and the car picked up over 40whp from baseline to final tune. I'm not saying you can't get them to run, I'm saying without a tune you will have a jacked up a A/F ratio and be way down on power from what you would if you tuned it.

It blows my mind when ppl do all this work to their cars and spend all this money and then don't go get it tuned.
Well I dont disagree there. I know my a/f ratio was off because I could smell it also. I know I would have picked up a lot with a tune, obviously I'm not that dumb, but 600$ is a lot of money for us. I do what I can when I can and that's normally with my half of the tax check not everyone has money sitting around to just blow. Some of us have families that will always come first.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:50 PM   #38
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Like had my fuel ratio off and gained a fair bit of horse with the chip, so I should be able to get another tune with my sct chip to get fuel ratio and such correctly
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Old 02-21-2014, 02:47 PM   #39
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Does sct tune for cams? I don't think they do... You might want to call them up if your going to try to use that instead of the dyno tune. I have never had a car with an upgraded cam or a car with a dyno tune. So I dont have any first hand experience like these guys but if you have the money you might as well get the dyno tune.
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:59 PM   #40
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Not too sure if sct does tunes for dyno, I guess I'll have to see! More than likely I'll have to get a dyno tune and I'm prepared for that.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:09 PM   #41
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Man I give about anything for a lunati can and dyno tune!! I dont like my current can much. I am getting a settlement from a car accident last year and I'm going to get a new can, dyno tune and face plate my trans...I can't wait!!
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:20 PM   #42
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That's really exciting! What cam are running now?
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:21 PM   #43
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I have the Anderson N-21 in it now...I want more lift and lots more lope...lol
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:25 PM   #44
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I'm getting an f303, I want lots of lope too but I just don't have the money to throw in $3,000 for a cam right now. Wish I did!

---------- Post added at 09:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:24 PM ----------

Do you have a video of your car with the cam?
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:32 PM   #45
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This was when I had the idle at 750-800... it won't stay running in stop and go traffic at that tho so I've had to turn it up to about 1000k. It would if it was tuned but its not...not yet.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:39 PM   #46
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That sounds awesome! I've never heard of that cam before, sounds pretty good! When you did your cam what did you upgrade? Such as lifters and what not
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:43 PM   #47
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Well I didn't do this particular cam. It was in the car when I bought it. Ice only bought f303 and lunati. But when I did mine I replaced the spring and valve seals. The first time I did it I didn't change the springs and I could tell it after a while. Had to replace them anyway in the long run.
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Old 02-22-2014, 01:30 PM   #48
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Oh ok, I'm hoping I shouldn't have too but I might just Buy springs so I don't have to spend the money later on. I just have to wait till it's nice out so I can't take it down to get done, parts are on the way
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Old 02-22-2014, 04:36 PM   #49
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Old 02-22-2014, 04:51 PM   #50
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When my car was dyno tuned cost me $680
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Old 02-22-2014, 05:18 PM   #51
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When my car was dyno tuned cost me $680
Mine would have been close to $700 but I asked him if I could pay cash and he'd take $600 and he was cool with that.

And I'm not trying to be an *** in this thread or anything or elitist or whatever... but if you don't have the money to do it right just don't do it at all. Running with an out of spec valvetrain because you don't measure or pig rich/too lean because you "just can't afford a tune right now" probably means you should put the money somewhere else. Subframes and suspension would be where I would start well before a cam. Hell, I would leave the stock cam in personally ESPECIALLY with the GT40 heads.

IMO, either get the rest of the car setup better or save the money and later when you can do it throw a supercharger on. S trim with an intercooler on a 94/95 car with the stock cam and GT40 heads/intake is one of the best street combos available. Stock driveability, stock or better than stock gas mileage, great off idle power due to the stock cam and the stock cam is actually a pretty decent blower cam. An untuned setup with the F cam is not going to run like you want it and I know this from experience. It might sound better and it might even feel a little more powerful but without the tune you will pick up little or no power and potentially cause longevity issues along the way.

Just my $.02, take it for what its worth. Like I've said I've been there and done that and if I could do it all over again with my 95 Cobra I would have not TOUCHED the longblock, upgraded the rest of the car and then tossed a blower at it.
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Old 02-22-2014, 05:35 PM   #52
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[QUOTE=scottydsntknow;1953793]Mine would have been close to $700 but I asked him if I could pay cash and he'd take $600 and he was cool with that.

And I'm not trying to be an *** in this thread or anything or elitist or whatever... but if you don't have the money to do it right just don't do it at all. Running with an out of spec valvetrain because you don't measure or pig rich/too lean because you "just can't afford a tune right now" probably means you should put the money somewhere else. Subframes and suspension would be where I would start well before a cam. Hell, I would leave the stock cam in personally ESPECIALLY with the GT40 heads. /QUOTE]

Well when you buy my parts for MY car I'll do as you say. Until then I'll build it my way and if and when there are problems with it I'll be the one paying for it, not you. And I've had experience with the f303 cam in 2 1994 mustangs and picked up a lot of throttle response and performance. Only had problems with the first one because I didn't change the springs at first. Yes I would have picked up more gains with a tune but I couldn't afford it and if you dont like it then you can pay for me to get one, or you can shut up and realize that people do what they can. Not all of us are 19 and have mommy and daddies money. Some of us have children, 6 here, that get the majority of our money and our toys go on the back burner.
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Old 02-22-2014, 05:53 PM   #53
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What's wrong with getting a cam in gt-40 heads? And well some of us are 18.. Me, but have rent, phone bill, a truck and a car plus everything else to pay for aswell. I pay for everything of my own, but I do have the money to pay for the cam and tune.
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:39 PM   #54
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Plus the amount id spend on a supercharger would be more than a cam wouldn't it?
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:51 PM   #55
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Plus the amount id spend on a supercharger would be more than a cam wouldn't it?
Oh for sure! If you did the work yourself you could do a cam for about 600$ with springs. Then a dyno would be about 250-300 since you already have the chip... this is why I do all my own work. Even body and paint. I space a lot of money because if I had to pay someone else to do it I would get much less done to my cars...lol

and I wasn't referring to you in my last post man. You pay all your own bill and whatever. Being single helps a LOT with being able to buy stuff you want.
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:59 PM   #56
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Oh wow, paint and body can be tricky, I do all my work as I've done heads on my v6 mustang, but I'm unsure about doing the cam myself, might have to see. And ya exactly, I've got the regular things to pay for like everyone else, and I'm not married And my gf isn't very needy lol. But then again I also don't make quite as much as some of you may make as of yet.

---------- Post added at 07:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ----------

And for doing the cam ourselves do you pull the engine or what? How do you insert the cam? Does the bumper come off or remove the front motor mounts and jack it up?
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:27 PM   #57
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Oh wow, paint and body can be tricky, I do all my work as I've done heads on my v6 mustang, but I'm unsure about doing the cam myself, might have to see. And ya exactly, I've got the regular things to pay for like everyone else, and I'm not married And my gf isn't very needy lol. But then again I also don't make quite as much as some of you may make as of yet.

---------- Post added at 07:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ----------

And for doing the cam ourselves do you pull the engine or what? How do you insert the cam? Does the bumper come off or remove the front motor mounts and jack it up?
The can is easy. You pull the intake off. Valve cover and rocker arms, take the push rods out and pull the lifters out. I keep everything in a zip lock bag and keep each set separate, numbering each bag so I know what cylinder it can from and if it was an exhaust or intake side. I like all my parts to go in the place they came from.

You'll need to pull off all the accessories, timing chain cover, remover the radiator and anything associated with it. No need to pull bumper or any body part. Dont need to raise or pull the engine. If you are replacing the lifter, which is recommended with any new cam, make sure to soak them in oil for a while first. Get some assembly lube and when you go to install the new cam rub some one on each lobe and bearing piece. Once its in just put everything back together. Once you get to the valve train make sure your number one cylinder is tdc before you put the distributor back in. Take a pic of it before removal or mark it with a marker so you can line the rotor button up easily. Number all the plug wires with masking tape and a marker so you know which one is which.

Now when you go to put the rocker arms back on you have to make sure that valve is closed first. Do one cylinder at a time and be thorough. Tighten it hand tight to remove all the lash from it and then another 1/4 of a turn. If you take all the plugs out the engine will be easier to rotate. You'll need a socket big enough to fit the crank bolt and the longest ratchet you have. When your done with one rocker on a cylinder rotate the crank till the next valve on that same cylinder is closed and repeat for all 8 cylinders.

When you go to install the lower part of the intake dont use the cork gaskets. Get the red rtv gasket maker and put your own seal down downtown be shy with it. About a 1/4 inch thick all the way across and a little extra in the corners to prevent leaks. Let that stuff dry a couple hours before you start the car or you'll have a coolant leak. Tighten the intake down from the center out in 3 different torque sequences. I dont remember what they are so you'll have to Google that. ... also, when you put the timing cover back on use a good amount of rtv sealer on the oil pan to seal it back up. Dont forget there are 2 bolts on each side that screw up from the bottom.

I know this is long winded but I can change my cam in a day as long as I dont run into any problems... just take your time and you can do it in a weekend. Watch a lot of YouTube videos to get a visual idea on what to look for.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:37 PM   #58
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That's very good description of how to do it, I figured it wouldn't be too hard as my heads got done in no more than a day, I was just worried of how to get the cam inside the engine block, but I assume it'll get put on from the top of the engine instead of sliding in from the front of the car?
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:45 PM   #59
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Once you have the radiator, accessories, timing cover and chain off it just comes out the front and back in the front. Its pretty simple really.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:49 PM   #60
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Oh I would have thought it wouldn't fit from the front even with all that off, that was my only worry. So it's realistically a simple job, I'm very aware of making sure everything is how it came out. Im replacing my brothers transmission out of his Mitsubishi GTO (it was my fault) and every nut is In designated bags and such, just as I did with the heads. I wasn't able to order parts yet but I'm planning on having everything ordered by Monday. If I'm doing it myself I'll get springs for sure, along with that I'll get the cam, 24lb injectors, calibrated maf, timing cover gasket kit, gt-40 upper intake gasket and anything else I'll need? I have roller rockers right now.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:51 PM   #61
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And are you sure I'll have enough clearance in my 94 body style to fit the cam in with the radiator off, cause I think there's more clearance from the foxes to the sn95s.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:54 PM   #62
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That should be about it. You can rent a spring compressor from auto zone and when your done take it back and get the money back. Just take your time man and have fun.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:56 PM   #63
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And are you sure I'll have enough clearance in my 94 body style to fit the cam in with the radiator off, cause I think there's more clearance from the foxes to the sn95s.
Yes I'm 100% sure. I've only ever changed them on my past 94's and 95. I've had 3 94's and 1 95...lol
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:22 PM   #64
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Awesome! That's good news, I'll do it myself then for sure! Appreciate the help man! Just another question I'll need a lower intake won't i? I bought the car with the gt-40x heads and gt-40 upper intake , and I'm buying a gt-40 upper intake gasket, would it be a stock lower intake gasket?
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:30 PM   #65
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I can't answer honestly. I've never dealt with any of the gt40 pieces. I've always used either the edelbrock or trick flow intakes. Sorry man.
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:02 PM   #66
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Alright, no worries man. I'll do some research and try and figure it out. Thanks
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:04 PM   #67
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What kind of springs should I get?
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:05 PM   #68
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Think these would do?
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:08 PM   #69
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I would ask the sales rep what springs are recommended for that cam. To pick your own springs you need to know the can lift and width of the factory springs. Its easier to buy the recommended ones
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Old 02-23-2014, 12:24 AM   #70
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Ok, I just sent A.M a email, hopefully they will get bsck to me on Monday so I can get everything settled. Appreciate your held bud! I'll keep you updated. Thanks
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