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Old 02-07-2014, 12:48 AM   #1
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95 cam install

I have a 95 gt and I'm looking at getting a cam, I want one that's fairly lumpy. My current mods are:

Under drive pullies
Cold air intake
60mm throttle body
Gt-40 upper intake
Roller rockers
Aluminum heads x model
Fms headers
Mac H pipe
Borla racing exhaust

Will I need supporting mods for a fairly lumpy cam? And what am I looking at for price and other expenses. Thanks
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:53 AM   #2
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Looking at probably a comp cam stage 3.
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Old 02-07-2014, 02:39 PM   #3
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I've used the F-303 cam in 2 of my builds and it sounds pretty bada**. But once I heard this car I think I'm going to try the B-303 next or find a lunati that will sound very similar.

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Old 02-07-2014, 02:41 PM   #4
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I love the sound of that! But would I need bigger injectors or anything else? Or would I be able to get it installed and then I'm good?
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Old 02-07-2014, 02:56 PM   #5
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What injectors are you running now? I would run 24# with your set up and the cam. You will need to either have your current MAF calibrated for it or buy a new one. If it was mine I would also get a 70mm TB and a 73mm C&L CAI.
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:00 PM   #6
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I've got stock injectors. But I would be doing 24lb injectors, how would i calibrate my maf? And would I need my car to get tuned? I have a sct eliminator chip.
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:06 PM   #7
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Yes a tune would help greatly but I ran my car for 3 years on a stock tune and 351 swap. Ive never dealt with SCT but I hear good things about them. All you should have to do is calm and give them the new engine specs and they could build you a tune and it they should also calibrate your MAF. If you buy an aftermarket MAF it will come calibrated already. Just be sure to tell them its for 24# injectors. Your car will not run correctly if at all if the MAF and injectors dont match
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1989 LX, 306 with TF top end kit, Anderson N-21 cam, TKO 600 trans with steel splatter shield,full Maximum Motorsports Mustang maximum Grip box, Detroit locker rear end with 31 spline Moser axles. Staggered wheels with Nitto 555 315/35/17 out back.
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:12 PM   #8
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Ok awesome, have you done the cam yourself or a shop? I've changed head gaskets on a 96 v6 stang and it wasn't too bad.
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:19 PM   #9
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I do all my own work. I can do the can in a day. Its not to hard once you do a few. I dont trust shops to work on my cars. I even do the paint and body work also. When the weather gets warm I'll start the body work on my current car.
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1989 LX, 306 with TF top end kit, Anderson N-21 cam, TKO 600 trans with steel splatter shield,full Maximum Motorsports Mustang maximum Grip box, Detroit locker rear end with 31 spline Moser axles. Staggered wheels with Nitto 555 315/35/17 out back.
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:33 PM   #10
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Ah I see, well I really want to do a cam. Planning on doing it this before summer. So all I would need with that cam from the video with my current mods would be injectors and calibrated maf? And maybe a tune?
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:39 PM   #11
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Well...its always good to replace the lifters with a cam ...and if your valve spring rate isn't correct for the can then that will need replaced also. You have aftermarket heads so you may be fine. Do you know the spring rate on your calve springs? They need to be enough to cover the max lift of the cam.
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:44 PM   #12
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I'm not sure they are the gt-40 x model heads so how would I be able to find out?

---------- Post added at 02:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:43 PM ----------

And The car came with roller rockers
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Old 02-07-2014, 04:23 PM   #13
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Well it takes a special tool to find spring pressure. I would replace them just to be safe.
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:10 PM   #14
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Oh I see, what kind of springs would I be looking at. Is there a specific?
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Oh I see, what kind of springs would I be looking at. Is there a specific?
That info you would get from the tech when you call to order. Just ask what the recommended springs are for it. I like to call summit racing and get my parts and price list together before I buy anything. I'll call, tell them what I want, cam for instance, and the get the part numbers and price for the gasket kit need to change the cam. Then get part number and prices for springs, seals or whatever you need.
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1989 LX, 306 with TF top end kit, Anderson N-21 cam, TKO 600 trans with steel splatter shield,full Maximum Motorsports Mustang maximum Grip box, Detroit locker rear end with 31 spline Moser axles. Staggered wheels with Nitto 555 315/35/17 out back.
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:56 PM   #16
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Oh ok, I'll have to make some calls and price out then! Appreciate your help man! Thanks
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:21 PM   #17
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Trying to figure this out with my mechanic, I have aftermarket aluminum gt-40X heads and roller rockers with other supporting mods. Can I throw in a f303 cam without Changing springs and valves and such considering I have aftermarket parts such as roller rockers and heads?
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:44 PM   #18
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I'm running a trickflow stage 1 cam with 1.7 rrs , with rpm heads and intake. Also I was maxing out my 24lb injectors at 4800rpms I has to bump up to 30lb injectors .

http://youtu.be/vGKk3glYI1o
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:58 PM   #19
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That sounds killer! Will I need to upgrade anytging else with my supporting mods? I want a cam but I don't want to spend a bunch of money, just looking at like a cam, injectors and calibrated maf.
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:17 PM   #20
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What heads and rocker arms do you have ?
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:25 PM   #21
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You CAN install the cam without changing springs. I did it when money was tight also. And it was the F303 cam. But if the springs arnt enough for that can you will need to change them in about a year. I had to do it twice. but since you have aftermarket heads and RR you'll probably be fine.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:25 PM   #22
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I'm not sure what kind of rocker arms I have, the car came with heads and roller rockers. I just want a simple cam without hefty mods. You think the f303 or the e303 I could do with my mods and injectors?
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:29 PM   #23
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If it was me I would do it. Like I said. I've installed the F303 cam on stock heads and springs before. Just try to plan and budget for better springs some day. And new lifters are always recommended when changing cams
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:58 PM   #24
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TFS Stage 1 cams go for $100 routinely on the corral with little to no miles. PPl often get them in the TFS top end kit, run them for a little while and then upgrade to a custom cam or a more agressive OTS cam. They are cheap, good profile, make good power, sound good and easy to tune for. You will also need new pushrods and have your mechanic measure for proper length before ordering. If he says "your stock ones should be fine" go find a mechanic who doesn't have his head planted firmly in his anus.
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Old 02-16-2014, 04:11 AM   #25
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So you say for sure I'll need new push rods with a new cam? And they would get measured for the size of the lobe on the cam right?
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:19 AM   #26
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You measure for proper pushrod length by installing a solid checking lifter and using an adjustable pushrod to get the witness marks on the valve stems correct. Then you take a set of digital calipers and measure what your pushrod wound up being and there is your length.

And yes you ALWAYS measure when you change something in the valvetrain, you might get lucky and not need new pushrods but you'll never know until you verify it. If the intake is already off most likely so its easy to do. Incorrect length pushrods can cause everything from loss of power to excessive valvetrain wear.
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Old 02-17-2014, 01:20 PM   #27
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Oh jeez alright. You know your stuff, I've got a guy I'll message today. I wasn't planning on spending a whole bunch of money but I knew it wasn't gonna be cheap, I'll talk to him and try and get and estimate. Thanks
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:59 PM   #28
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Got quoted $800 for the cam install. So I just ordered 24lbs injectors, f303 cam, timing cover gasket set, and intake gasket set!
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:40 PM   #29
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No adjustable pushrod for checking? Also make sure to factor in another $600 or so for the tune.

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Old 02-20-2014, 05:49 PM   #30
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No adjustable pushrod for checking? Also make sure to factor in another $600 or so for the tune.

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I like how thorough you are but you have to remember that not everyone can just go do that stuff. I've changed several cams and never checked leanth and also never had any issues and I have yet to get a car tuned because we live check to almost check. I am very aware that certain things should be done if they can be afforded but with people in my shoes, we just do what we can. I know some people, like my brother for example, can not seem to understand that.
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:30 PM   #31
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I have enough money for the cam and parts plus install and enough for a tune, but my mechanic said it should be easy to tune so it shouldn't be too much.
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:42 PM   #32
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Well the expensive part comes because if you dont already have a chip you'll have to buy one of theirs for them to put your tune on. If you go do a dyno tune then I would expect 500-600$ but you could just try a bama tune or another similar company.

That is, guess you have a 96 or newer with the obd2 on it. Anything older has to have a chip to tune.
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:54 PM   #33
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I like how thorough you are but you have to remember that not everyone can just go do that stuff. I've changed several cams and never checked leanth and also never had any issues and I have yet to get a car tuned because we live check to almost check. I am very aware that certain things should be done if they can be afforded but with people in my shoes, we just do what we can. I know some people, like my brother for example, can not seem to understand that.
If you can't do it then don't do it. You almost 100% had a valvetrain out of spec at some point. You might not have known it from the way the car ran but power loss and excessive valvetrain wear goes on when you don't spec it in right. As far as not getting an EFI car not tuned after a cam swap. You might as well not even do the cam swap. I know this from experience and with the dyno. Carbs are different if you aren't EFI. Un-tuned EFI you can get it to idle ok and run ok but as far as power... no.

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I have enough money for the cam and parts plus install and enough for a tune, but my mechanic said it should be easy to tune so it shouldn't be too much.
Your mechanic is going to shaft you if he isn't telling you how much it costs to tune right off the bat. Let you get it all in the car, have it running like *** because the 94/95 computer will not like the F303 and then "oh its going to be $400 for the chip and $200 for the tune". There is no reason he can't tell you right now how much it will cost exactly.
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:01 PM   #34
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Well I have always had lots of gains from my cam swaps without tuning it, hence the reason i have always upgraded it. As for the 94/95 computer not running well with the f303, that's crap. I ran mine for 3 years with a mildly built 351w and that same cam with no tune at all on a stock computer. Car ran like a scalded dog. Never any issues at all. Now I do agree that you should get a tune if you can afford it but telling someone there car won't run well without it is crap because I did it.
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Old 02-21-2014, 06:48 AM   #35
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I do realize making such a big difference with an how an engine works will affect it and I will need a tune, I have the 96-98 taillight conversion. My car is a 94, I have a sct bank eliminator chip with 3 91 octane tunes already programmed on it.
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