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Old 02-13-2014, 09:35 PM   #1
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Exclamation Mustang gone wrong...

Hey guys heres another fun thread.
So as you all already know I currently own a 1988 mustang 5.0 lx. I bought the car back in november and I've had multiple issues. I currently have a misfiring issue so I was told to replace multiple things. I would get a misfiring/popping sound from my vehicle under a load and would feel like I am losing power until the car would catch up and speed up the misfiring ended. I replaced the fuel filter, sparkplugs (motorcraft gapped at .052), ignition wires (autolites), MSD Cap and rotor, MSD Ignition coil, Oil & filter change, Did a 3g alternator upgrade to a 130 amp alternator(kit bought from latemodelrestorations.com) with a bigger gauge wire that goes from the alternator to the ignition system, cleaned out the Iacv(looks brand new and had no carb build up in it at all so I believe that the previous owner knew about the issue), tested the TPS and it was at a .97 so it checked out good, I replaced the tfi ignition module(made no difference) so I was told I couldve been the pip sensor in the distributor. I just replaced the distributor about 2 weeks ago and when I did I made sure the #1 cylinder was top dead center and made sure the rotor was pointed toward the number 1 cylinder/sparkplug and installed the distributor. Then my neighbor(builds cars for atco raceway here in sj) used a timing light and set my timing to 12 degrees. After the new distributor (the brand is Tough One?) was installed I noticed that the car actually now bucks/jerks forward if i stay at a steady/constant speed. For example if I drive 25 mph for a while it'll buck/jerk forward a couple of times until I increase acceleration. Although this problem doesnt occur if I accelerate or am sitting at a light in neutral. After all of that work, the misfiring issue is still present, although it did seem to go away for a day or two after the distributor install. About a week ago I installed 6 new speakers and a new headunit correctly, and last night when I turned on my headlights, I noticed another problem now. The headlights were flickering and so was the lite up dashboard. The battery gauge on the dashboard itself was bouncing up and down as well(not giant bouncing but bouncing up and down as fast as the flickering). I've never had this issue before and it hasnt gone away since last night. It cant be the aftermarket headunit or speakers because this problem just began to happen and theyve been in for a week already. The negative and positive cables arent loose either so what could be the problem? The car still misfires/pops and bucks/ jerks forward at a constant speed and now I have this issue on top of it. I am really about to bash my head through a wall... I've only had the car almost 3 months now... and it didnt seem to have these issues the first few weeks i've had it... please help me...?

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Old 02-14-2014, 05:46 AM   #2
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You are supposed to upgrade with a bigger ground wire from negative battery also.could cause needles to jump
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:55 AM   #3
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You are supposed to upgrade with a bigger ground wire from negative battery also.could cause needles to jump
Where can I get that from? And what do you mean cause needles to jump
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:12 AM   #4
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Battery gauge to jump and headlights to act up.you should be able to get the wire at any parts store
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:09 AM   #5
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how does it idle?
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1995 5.0 u/d,cai,t/b,shorty headers,x pipe,flows 40's,373 gears, alum. driveshaft, alum. radiator, shift kit, e-cam, ported upper and lower intake, 100 shot of spray, 2100 stall, black 0304 cobras. suspension: upper and lower control arms, sub frame connecters, and springs all SVE
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:21 AM   #6
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Battery gauge to jump and headlights to act up.you should be able to get the wire at any parts store
Well the alternator has been in the mustang for about a month and a half now and this problem just started so I understand that I should replace it although the issue just started. The battery amp light is actually flickering now in the car so i'm thinking that it might be a bad cell in the battery. Maybe the alternator is trying to fully charge the battery so it is using more than its suppose to? I'm going to try to pull codes again and if i get nothing i'm just going to take her to autozone to get a system test on everything.
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:50 AM   #7
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Unplug the maf if nothing changes there's the bucking problem...you said the car idles fine tho?
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:06 AM   #8
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Maybe wiring is torn up somewhere, rats like to get in there and chew, or cats...just take a quick look around and ensure all of that is good. People always hack up wiring when doing their own installs and hunting down problems ( I don't mean u, but previous owner).
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:01 AM   #9
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Maybe wiring is torn up somewhere, rats like to get in there and chew, or cats...just take a quick look around and ensure all of that is good. People always hack up wiring when doing their own installs and hunting down problems ( I don't mean u, but previous owner).
I'll look but everything is good I just got the system checked. Battery is great putting out more than needed and alternator is perfect cranking system is fine. Wiring is okay nothing cut up.

---------- Post added at 12:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:00 PM ----------

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Unplug the maf if nothing changes there's the bucking problem...you said the car idles fine tho?
My car is speed density. Not maf.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:48 AM   #10
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Unplug the maf if nothing changes there's the bucking problem...you said the car idles fine tho?
The timing is set at 12 degrees and it idles at 8-900rpms, although sometimes the idles bounces up and down like 100 rpms up and down but thats barely. Sometimes the idle surges on start up when the engine is warmed up. Although thats been a problem.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:49 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Liebert91stang View Post
Battery gauge to jump and headlights to act up.you should be able to get the wire at any parts store
Went to advanced auto to get a system test and here are the results. The battery test: Good Battery. Voltage: 13.02v, Measured: 654 CCA, Rated: 540 CCA, Temperature 59F "Battery Meets or Exceeds Required Standards". The Starter test: Cranking Normal: Voltage 10.52V, Amps: 0.0A, Time: 1.12S. The Charging System Test: Results: No Problems, No Loads: 14.99V, Loaded: 14.64V, Ripple: 88mV. Charging system output test normal. So is this a ground issue now?...
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:13 PM   #12
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It could well be a ground issue. Check and clean them all. Could be a lose connection somewhere with an eyelet, or rusted and corroded.
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:15 PM   #13
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It could well be a ground issue. Check and clean them all. Could be a lose connection somewhere with an eyelet, or rusted and corroded.
That's going to be my issue. I only know of the grounds near each headlight, near the battery itself that comes from the negative terminal and the one that is on the drivers side firewall that goes to the engine..
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:35 PM   #14
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Have you checked the battery ground that goes to the engine block ( drivers side near the front behind the water pump).
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:34 PM   #15
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It could well be a ground issue. Check and clean them all. Could be a lose connection somewhere with an eyelet, or rusted and corroded.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:57 PM   #16
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Have you checked the battery ground that goes to the engine block ( drivers side near the front behind the water pump).
Its there lol what would you like me to do with it? clean it haha? I dont even know how to get to it. I can just see that it goes to that area.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:58 PM   #17
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It could well be a ground issue. Check and clean them all. Could be a lose connection somewhere with an eyelet, or rusted and corroded.
Cleaned the grounds by the two headlights, the battery and the one on the drivers side firewall that goes to the engine. Used sand paper and cleaned the paint off of the walls.. no difference at all.
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Old 02-14-2014, 02:05 PM   #18
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Just used my actron obd1 code scanner. On the KOEO test I got system pass. On KOER test however, I got code 41. Code 41: Exhaust Gas Oxygen (EGO) sensor: Voltage Signal always "Lean" (low value) - does not switch. This wouldnt have anything to do with my whole bucking/ jerking forward, dashboard and head light flickering and battery gauge jumping issue would it?...
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Old 02-14-2014, 02:17 PM   #19
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Its there lol what would you like me to do with it? clean it haha? I dont even know how to get to it. I can just see that it goes to that area.
Crawl under the front of the car.... reach up and try to wiggle the ground cable to make sure the nut or bolt is tight.
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Old 02-14-2014, 02:27 PM   #20
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Crawl under the front of the car.... reach up and try to wiggle the ground cable to make sure the nut or bolt is tight.
I'm going to go out and see check that right now, as for grounds, besides that i just cleaned them I just realized something. In the picture that i've attached, The ground that is between the battery and the ignition solenoid (like the one pointed in the picture by the screwdriver) is exactly like the one in the picture. It IS NOT a 4 gauge wire. Is it suppose to be now that I have a 3g alternator?(btw the picture isnt my car)
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Old 02-14-2014, 03:08 PM   #21
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I'm going to go out and see check that right now, as for grounds, besides that i just cleaned them I just realized something. In the picture that i've attached, The ground that is between the battery and the ignition solenoid (like the one pointed in the picture by the screwdriver) is exactly like the one in the picture. It IS NOT a 4 gauge wire. Is it suppose to be now that I have a 3g alternator?(btw the picture isnt my car)
That's now I'm reading it.

CODE 41 TO 92 - Fuel Pressure Regulator | Mustang Forums at StangNet
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Old 02-14-2014, 03:15 PM   #22
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Okay well i have a 4 gauge ground wire and each end has the circles for a screw to go into. Where do I put it?, one side underneath or over top of the negative battery cable for where it bolts onto the engine and the other side underneath or over top of the ground wire shown in the picture attached? Or how do I connect the 4 gauge wire?
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:01 PM   #23
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In my case I went to a place that installs troweling motors for boats because they have the 4 gauge cable and I had them make me up the cable to the length I wanted with one end with so that I could fasten it to bolt threaded into the engine and the other end with the battery connection.
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:06 PM   #24
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In my case I went to a place that installs troweling motors for boats because they have the 4 gauge cable and I had them make me up the cable to the length I wanted with one end with so that I could fasten it to bolt threaded into the engine and the other end with the battery connection.
So attach one side from the bolt threaded into the engine(that holds the negative battery cable onto the engine) and the other side under the original ground connection that is on the wall next to the battery that the screwdriver points at? also I have a 15 inch 4 gauge wire(attached).
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:19 PM   #25
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The cable runs from the - side of the battery to where I have it bolted to the block.
I had the people who did the cable for me cut the existing wire with the fuse connector and had the press the wire into the end into the battery connection so mine looks like this.

All my wires are hidden so mine won't be the same as yours but should give you a good idea of what I'm talking about.
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:49 PM   #26
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The cable runs from the - side of the battery to where I have it bolted to the block.
I had the people who did the cable for me cut the existing wire with the fuse connector and had the press the wire into the end into the battery connection so mine looks like this.

All my wires are hidden so mine won't be the same as yours but should give you a good idea of what I'm talking about.
It has to be from the negative battery terminal to the block? It cant be from the block where the negative cable connects to the other ground?
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:20 PM   #27
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Any 3G altanator needs a 4 gauge ground from block to chassis
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:26 PM   #28
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Any 3G altanator needs a 4 gauge ground from block to chassis
Picture? I have no idea where to ground on the chassis?
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:37 PM   #29
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http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...ground.854130/

---------- Post added at 05:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:36 PM ----------

Couldn't find a pic so this is as close as I could get
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:24 AM   #30
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I would replace o2's, I'm not sure how much they can effect your car such as jerking and bucking, but I know if they are fried they can keep it from starting at all. Sounds like you might try changing them, it's like 40$ to change em. They probably need it anyway.
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:26 AM   #31
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I would replace o2's, I'm not sure how much they can effect your car such as jerking and bucking, but I know if they are fried they can keep it from starting at all. Sounds like you might try changing them, it's like 40$ to change em. They probably need it anyway.
$40 a piece right? Any recommendations?
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:29 AM   #32
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I fried mine when oil got sucked into my exhaust...I just went with the OEM replacements. I figured the OEM worked for 27 years, why go with something different?
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:14 AM   #33
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Is your accessory pulley to the alternator painted?? Did you paint the alternator?
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:59 AM   #34
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Is your accessory pulley to the alternator painted?? Did you paint the alternator?
Alternator is not painted neither is its pulley.
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:04 PM   #35
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The 4 gauge wire I tried to put from where the negative battery cable mount wasnt long enough to reach from underneath where the negative cable is mounted to the ground beside the battery so I bought a 4 gauge negative battery cable replacement(78 inches now I have too much wire left over o_O..) and the bouncing and dashboard and headlight flickering went away for the day. I started my car today and now its back...
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