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Old 02-15-2014, 08:06 PM   #1
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Clutch Peddle

What would make a clutch peddle be so hard to push that it feels like it pushing into your shoe? Was told it was a new clutch.
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:03 PM   #2
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Well if it's a fresh clutch some can be pretty stiff. Do you know what kind of clutch it is? If it's a stage 2 or 3 they become even stiffer. If it's extremely hard to push down to the point where it's not working or hard to drive the car then you might have a problem
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:55 PM   #3
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Could be your factory clutch cable is finally giving up the ghost, could be someone swapped a non-OEM style clutch cable in which is a HUGE nono, could be something in the clutch, quadrant could be cracked... best bet is to buy the Max Motorsports full kit that is the metal quadrant, firewall adapter and new OEM cable and see if that cures your problems. At the mileage most of these cars are at its good preventative maintenance anyway.
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Old 02-16-2014, 01:31 PM   #4
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Well if it's a fresh clutch some can be pretty stiff. Do you know what kind of clutch it is? If it's a stage 2 or 3 they become even stiffer. If it's extremely hard to push down to the point where it's not working or hard to drive the car then you might have a problem
Previous owner told me it was new, installed by the person he bought it from. No Idea about the stages. The car sat for about a year under his shed, didn't have time to work on it. The owner before him had started to redo the car, starting with the interior and top, both are in great shape. Its hard to start off in 1st, all other gear changes are easy and smooth. Peddle pushes back so hard that with tennis shoes on it will feel uncomfortable on your foot.
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Old 02-16-2014, 01:37 PM   #5
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Could be your factory clutch cable is finally giving up the ghost, could be someone swapped a non-OEM style clutch cable in which is a HUGE nono, could be something in the clutch, quadrant could be cracked... best bet is to buy the Max Motorsports full kit that is the metal quadrant, firewall adapter and new OEM cable and see if that cures your problems. At the mileage most of these cars are at its good preventative maintenance anyway.
Do what to put a firewall adjustable cable and a new aluminum quadrant on it but didn't know to use only ford products. Been looking at a BBK kit from summit. But will check out the one you mentioned. Is there a reason the aftermarket kits are a nono?
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Old 02-16-2014, 01:44 PM   #6
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Pedal!!!!!!

Stick with oem cable as mentioned. The aftermarket ones never hold up. Quadrant and firewall adjuster can be any brand. The point is to change the geometry to make it easier.

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Old 02-16-2014, 02:41 PM   #7
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Do what to put a firewall adjustable cable and a new aluminum quadrant on it but didn't know to use only ford products. Been looking at a BBK kit from summit. But will check out the one you mentioned. Is there a reason the aftermarket kits are a nono?
I put the Steeda adjustable cable and quadrant along with the firewall adjuster on my car over 12 years ago and it's as smooth today as the day I put it on and takes less effort to press the pedal down than the OEM parts did.
The Steeda cable and firewall adjuster only have 65,000 miles on them so I guess only time will tell how long it was stay as smooth as it is right now.
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:26 PM   #8
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Waiting on parts, will update when installed.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:59 AM   #9
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I prefer the MM quadrant, its designed so the cable end sits flush and does not pinch the cable end where it attaches to the hook like many others. It is the one that I've found most mirrors the stock feel minus the slightly spongy effect you get with the plastic.

Read this for more info on why non stock cables suck and also why I like the MM quadrant. I don't work for MM or anything, I have just been doing mods to these cars for a good long time now and I've never NEVER had a bad MM product. I'm not saying that there are companies that make stuff better than MM (Steeda makes a better subframe connector IMO), but you will always get a good one from MM.

I DO have a Fiore microclick firewall adjuster though, that is the best one out there, period. No set screw to adjust, ball bearings for easy turning, once it is set it stays put and LOTS of adjustability.

Also, watch out for some "quick release" quadrants. They have a markedly different feel to them and you might not like it. I had a Fiore quick release quadrant in my 98 when I got it and I HATED the clutch pedal feel.
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Old 03-02-2014, 04:34 PM   #10
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Do you have to pull the column and drop the bracket holding the pedals to get a quadrant installed on these model mustangs?
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Old 03-02-2014, 04:41 PM   #11
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Do you have to pull the column and drop the bracket holding the pedals to get a quadrant installed on these model mustangs?
Sorry, mine is a 87.
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:22 PM   #12
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Do you have to pull the column and drop the bracket holding the pedals to get a quadrant installed on these model mustangs?
No you don't need to pull the column to R/R the quadrant.
I suggest you pull the drivers seat though, I will make your life so much easier while you're fighting to get the old quadrant out and hooking up the new clutch cable to the quadrant.
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:47 PM   #13
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Agreed, pulling the driver's seat makes this a million times easier.
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Old 03-02-2014, 06:27 PM   #14
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No you don't need to pull the column to R/R the quadrant.
I suggest you pull the drivers seat though, I will make your life so much easier while you're fighting to get the old quadrant out and hooking up the new clutch cable to the quadrant.
Pulled the seat 2 day's ago. Found a amp under it not hooked up. Got the old quadrant off but having trouble with what I read as the pawl. Looks like it's about 3/4" wide and have under 1/2" between the stud and a bracket. Have read to pry it over and even breaking it. Problem is its so tight under there there's not much room to pry.
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Old 03-02-2014, 06:32 PM   #15
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Longass flathead screwdriver and pry away. Or grab it with a set of pliers and just crunch it till it breaks. Best way to get it out is to break it.
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Old 03-02-2014, 06:47 PM   #16
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^^^^ Agree!
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Old 03-02-2014, 07:49 PM   #17
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Frustration and Uncle Author just got the best of me tonight. Will try again tomorrow. Wonder if a 45 APC will do the trick?
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:03 PM   #18
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^^^ Been there!!!
Tomorrow is another day and like suggested above pry and break the old plastic quadrant off .. that's how I did mine because I got tired of the frustration.

The 45 APC might just be a little to much.
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:13 PM   #19
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What no .50 caliber?
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:11 PM   #20
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What no .50 caliber?
Well, I'd like to have something left of it.
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:32 PM   #21
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Got it. Probably need to go to a chiropractor.
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:48 PM   #22
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Congrats on getting it.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:11 PM   #23
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Congrats on getting it.
Thank's, amazing the things you can do with a soldering iron.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:46 PM   #24
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Thank's, amazing the things you can do with a soldering iron.
Never thought of that
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Old 03-04-2014, 08:49 AM   #25
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Never thought of that
Yea, wish I'd thought of it two days ago. I'd have a few less scratches and cut's on the arms.
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:30 PM   #26
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I have the same problem. Do I need to pull the whole dash out to release the cable off the pedal assembly.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:14 PM   #27
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I just have fat hands. What a pain!
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:35 PM   #28
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I have the same problem. Do I need to pull the whole dash out to release the cable off the pedal assembly.
No don[t pull the dash out. I have fat hands also. Take the cable off the arm under the car first.
Then take it loose where it goes through the firewall and that will make taking the cable off the quadrant much easier. There's a video on you tube that shows the springs you need to take off. The one on the quadrant is the "easy one." The small one on the pawl is the *****. What I did is wedged it up where I could see it in the hole of the firewall, Took a wire soldering iron and stuck it through the hole and melted the plastic pawl where it crosses over the bracket. Then the spring and the pawl came off much easier. I had to hold the peddle up and remove the pawl while it was as high up as it would go. The one on you tube must have been on a newer model because it looked much easier, and he had a lot more room than I did. Use the soldering iron at your own risk. I did it as almost the last resort, I would hate it if someone got hurt or messed something up on their car. It just happened to work for me. Once your ready to put the new quadrant on place the new cable on the quadrant then put the quadrant on. Use tape or a rubber band to hold the cable in place till you get everything reconnected. Good luck!
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Old 03-18-2014, 02:33 PM   #29
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I have a 93. Looks much different then the you tube. What a .....! Very tight, not a simple project at all.
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Old 03-18-2014, 02:52 PM   #30
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Got it! Thanks 04gt!
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Old 03-18-2014, 02:55 PM   #31
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Put the car up on jackstands, remove dustshield, push the clutch fork forward, unhook the cable and it will slide right out from the stock quadrant when you go to unhook it. Then, just beat the crap out of the stock plastic quadrant until it breaks away and make sure you get all the pieces off. Then install aftermarket quadrant, firewall adjuster and set the preload on the TOB. You will need to have someone turning the firewall adjuster while you are under the car while running (choked/brake set and preferably someone in the car with foot on brake). Keep the dustshield off and shine a flashlight in there while the person adjusting the firewall adjuster tightens up the cable. When you see the TOB start to spin, go one click tighter and that is your preload.

I'd highly recommend the Fiore microclick firewall adjuster. No set screw to mess with, ball bearings, easy to turn and stays put when turned. Anything with a set screw is a no-no in my book.
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Old 03-18-2014, 03:00 PM   #32
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Thanks. Much better now. Ya that's what I did. A screwdriver and a hammer broke it to pieces. It deserved it.
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