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Just wondering

1K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  5.oh 
#1 ·
I know my last post didn't go so well with the street racing issue. I apologize to those I may have offended by that.

Anyways... I'm swapping my heads to the gt40 possibly P heads. Wondering what kind of cam I should get. I already have one but it came with the car and I figured since I'm in there I might as well switch it out since I have to pull it anyways for springs.

I want something lopey but not to the point where it's gonna choke out, and with some good low end torque. I've been looking at tfs1 or possibly going custom grind...

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#4 ·
When planning on a cam, its good to match it with your current mods, or if you're planning on a specific mod for the future (like F.I.). I always like a custom grind, but you either need to already know what you want for specs, or talk to an experienced custom cam maker. The Ford Letter cams can sound good, but they can't beat a custom cam.
 
#5 ·
Rite. It'll be gt40 heads for it. I just want the cam to match heads for maximum performance and durability

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---------- Post added at 08:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:13 PM ----------

My car is fuel injected

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#6 ·
If you are going to a non-stock cam prepare to factor in a $500-$700 dyno tune on top of whatever you are doing. That's just the reality of it unless you buy your own tuning software and learn to tune yourself and even that is probably going to be a startup cost similar to the dyno tune.

Anyway from your other post you seem to be having oil pressure issues or at least possible oil pressure issues. This means that you really should be pulling the motor which is actually pretty easy in a pushrod. I still say you should look for an Explorer motor but if they aren't there they aren't there. As for GT40 vs GT40P, I prefer the original GT40s and you will need those if you have or plan to keep EGR as the Ps and the 2nd generation Explorer intakes that came with the P heads do not have internal EGR provisions.

Just one thing to think about. If you are getting anywhere near the $600 mark with the GT40 heads that is close to used aluminum head territory so try to keep costs to a minimum. $400-$500 ready to bolt on cleaned up/valve job/springs/seals/retainers/locks is what your goal is.
 
#8 ·
Anyways my oil psi stays at around 16-20 at 800 rpm. Then at 1500 it's at 25 or so.. The heads are going to cost me around 100 from the junkyard. New hardware and valve job will Prolly cost close to 400 for all of it. Then I'm going to change the cam I got and oil pump.. cam to match the heads for more power. I will look and see how.much the explorer motor cost from a junkyard that already pulls then. So I can have my car to drive to work while working on that.. and I'm not to worried about the egr. Don't have to have emissions.

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---------- Post added at 11:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:19 AM ----------

By the way what performance oil pump should I buy that'll clear the stock oil pan?

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#9 ·
#11 ·
Its the FRPP pump so yeah it'll be fine.
 
#12 ·
Thanks again man. Do you know if i could do main rod bearings on the cam while while I'm under the car? I'm going to try and raise the engine while it's still in the car just enough to drop the pan and what not. May not be the best idea but I don't have a lift and stuff.. yet.

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