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Old 05-03-2014, 10:09 PM   #1
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Intake gaskets

What's a good intake gasket to use for gt40 intak? Looking at the fel pro 1262s. This is might last attempt to fix my coolant problem before I do the head gaskets

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Old 05-03-2014, 11:47 PM   #2
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I used the Fel Pro 1250S gasket IIRC when I did mine. Also make damn sure to put a thin film of high temp RTV around the coolant ports and do NOT use the cork crap on the ends of the intake. Most ppl, myself included, use RTV to make the front and rear gaskets. I use "Right Stuff" gasket maker.
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Old 05-04-2014, 12:13 AM   #3
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So don't use the little clip on one's that go in the front and back? Cause that gasket done moved on me, that's where I think the coolant is seeping air in.just rtv the front and back?

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---------- Post added at 12:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 AM ----------

Cause I did everything new in the coolant system and it's still bubbling up air in the radiator. I'm ready to be done with this

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Old 05-04-2014, 10:23 AM   #4
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Like this



You NEVER use the supplied gaskets that go here, they will always leak.



That's how I did the one on my last rebuild.
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Old 05-04-2014, 08:25 PM   #5
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Cool deal man! I used that silicone stuff today out the can. How freaking nice that is. It's sweet. No more smelly freaking rtv and sticky hands.

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Old 05-05-2014, 10:37 AM   #6
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I will agree with Scotty again as he has you pointed in the right direction.

Also make sure you let it cure and check after a heat cycle or 2 to make sure it is still torqued correctly.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:41 AM   #7
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Thanks guys! Just making sure that this one is going to go one rite so I don't have to think that maybe it's messed up or somtin

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Old 05-05-2014, 12:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smurf stang View Post
I will agree with Scotty again as he has you pointed in the right direction.

Also make sure you let it cure and check after a heat cycle or 2 to make sure it is still torqued correctly.
x2

that is how I did mine too!!
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:16 PM   #9
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X2 on the re-torque after the heat cycles. Let the engine get up to temp fully and then when it cools down re-torque the intake. I do this a total of three times after the initial torque. They like to back off. Do NOT use Loctite. I know you didn't but you'd be surprised at ppl... actually no you wouldn't lol.
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:37 PM   #10
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Yeah I never re torqued it after the last time I did it. I just flushed the coolant again and it had straight orange water coming out. It must be really rusted in there. Can I use atf fluid to flush the system? Maybe a half a quart or so just to get it cleaned a little.

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Old 05-05-2014, 02:40 PM   #11
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This is rite in front to the right of the distributor. There's a gap there you can't really see. Hoping this is where my cooling system is sucking in air

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Old 05-05-2014, 03:47 PM   #12
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Wtf

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Old 05-05-2014, 05:55 PM   #13
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Uh no

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Old 05-05-2014, 07:50 PM   #14
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Yeah. Definently not a good sign. Just did the intake gaskets and cleaned up some.of the crap.gunna see how it does for a little bit

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Old 05-05-2014, 08:37 PM   #15
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Eh... yeah clean that... I'd hate to see what the crankcase looks like.
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Old 05-06-2014, 12:44 AM   #16
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Yeah I did. The dip stick has absolutely nothing on it. I had two bolts that backed off on the lower Intake, My radiator is holding pressur alot more but it's still getting pretty hot. I'm going to flush the hell out of it tomorrow. I did my timing cover that was leaking. I have a pic of that pudding too

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Old 05-06-2014, 12:45 AM   #17
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It wss leaking from the top right coolant port in the block


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Old 05-06-2014, 06:18 AM   #18
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Is it just the flash or is that an oil milkshake in there?
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Old 05-06-2014, 10:40 AM   #19
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Oil milkshake. From the coolant dumping in it when I took the cover off. I figured I'd keep the oil in it to kinda drain out as much of everything. Since I had stuff for a fresh one.

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Old 05-06-2014, 12:39 PM   #20
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Ok I was going to say... Also that waxy buildup is from using **** oil over the years. Conventional Pennzoil is notorious for doing that just as an example.
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:28 PM   #21
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I've done one oil change in the last 2500 miles since I had the car. Lol that was with royal purp. Actually twice, when I first got it and a couple days ago

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Old 05-06-2014, 04:05 PM   #22
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Did you also install heads? Or just the intake?
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:14 PM   #23
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Just the intake. Working on getting a new job to afford some heads. Might be a union painter here pretty soon, I'll just get crate motor and possibly a supercharger IF I get the job.

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Old 05-07-2014, 02:41 PM   #24
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I feel if I had new heads I'd have alot more horsepower. With all the stuff I have on this car it feels sluggish for what it is. My power and don't hit until about 3 grand till about 5 if I ever run it that high.

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Old 05-08-2014, 10:23 AM   #25
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What do you have besides an intake?
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:20 PM   #26
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Some kinda cam, bought it like that. Bbk cai with a 76mm mass air flow and 70mm throttle body. Gt40 intake upper and lower, sub frames, straight pipe exhaust witch is prolly why it doesn't have power till about 2500-3000. I could really benefit from some new heads, and gaskets I feel.

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Old 05-08-2014, 07:22 PM   #27
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Also have bbk shorty headers 1 5/8ths.

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Old 05-08-2014, 07:24 PM   #28
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Oh yeah, also have 3.73s in the rear.

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Old 05-09-2014, 01:06 PM   #29
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Heads are really holding you back.

But hey enjoy it till your ready to tackle a nice tear down cause while doing the heads you might as well do a cam that will compliment the combo.
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Old 05-10-2014, 06:30 PM   #30
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Yeah I know. Still trying to choose between gt40s or ps. There all pretty much the same but still.

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Old 05-10-2014, 07:10 PM   #31
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If you have the choice get regular GT40s every time. No spark plug/header issues. Power is the same.
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Old 05-10-2014, 09:01 PM   #32
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Yeah that's what I figured. I have the shorty headers that will work. I can just never find no gt40s at junkyards or anything. People want 700 for em on ebay. I'd rather get trick flow turbo swirls for that.

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Old 05-10-2014, 09:24 PM   #33
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People on ebay are morons, they were NEVER worth that unless they were new ones and FRPP stopped selling those back in the early 2000s. And yes I've seen TW heads go on the corral for $700 shipped before. Even if you paid the going rate of $800-$900 its not even a question you save up and pay for the TW heads vs GT40s at $700.

For GT40s you need to be looking for 1996 and 1997 Explorers. All 96s had them and the first half of 97. Also if you ever did want to keep your egr functional for any sort of inspection purposes you would have to use the regular GT40s as they have internal EGR passages.

You can also do freshened E7s for next to nothing, a Cobra intake, stock cam and then put your $$$ towards a $1500 used S trim and another $400 for a budget fuel system and be right at 400whp vs 300whp with a HCI. You're going to need to do fuel either way because the fox fuel system isn't even adequate stock honestly.
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Old 05-11-2014, 12:46 AM   #34
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Yeah, that's no joke. I've seen people have completely redone gt40s for 600. With stock springs and a 3 valve port job. I've always wanted to upgrade the fuel system anyways considering I want to get a fpr and 24 lbs for future add ons.

I also have to figure out this coolant problem first. Thinking of just pulling the motor and popping out the freeze plugs to scrape the rust out. You know it's kind of weird that my coolant is seeping air somewhere and I've pressure tested it 3 times and no leaks. But it's steadily getting very small amount of air in from somewhere. Not excluding the huge amount of orange water that's coming out every time I flush it.

Idrc about the egr. I don't need it anyways.

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Old 05-11-2014, 12:48 AM   #35
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I wish I had somebody like you or surf that lived close enough by me to help each other out with stuff. Idk anyone around here with another 5.0 that's willing to help or just lend a thought out on stuff..

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